• Page :
  • 1
  • Text Only
rated:

Hello all,

I am getting ready to build my first custom computer. Here's my build:

- Motherboard: Asus Z68
- Processor: Intel i5 2500k 3.3gHz
- RAM: 8gb (probably Corsair but maybe Pioneer)(motherboard holds up to 16, but I don't think that 16 will make much difference in performance and will cost me an extra $50)
- GFX: EVGA Geforce GTX 560 Ti
- Sound: Sound Lab 7.1
- Memory: 1 tb internal SATA
- random optical drive
- 650W power supply
- Wireless card
- Case: Cooler Master mid-range (forget the exact model #)

Not including my OS (which will be Windows 7 Home), and including a new monitor, this all prices out to around $970. Most of the best prices are TigerDirect, but I will be buying others on Amazon due to a large gift card balance.

So my question is: What can I do to lower my cost? Is buying used components on eBay safe/worthwhile?

Also, I could scavenge some pieces (SATA HD, wireless card, optical drive, RAM) from my current desktop to save $100-150, but I'm worried that since I've never done this before, I'll accidentally damage or destroy the components and then I won't have a backup PC. When moving a hard drive to a new PC, does it just... kind of get up and running immediately? Or are there other steps that I'm not aware of?

Finally, general advice on computer building is appreciated. Many thanks!


Member Summary
Most Recent Posts

I only meant between the 2 i5's he was considering. Major difference between celeron to i7.

recom (May. 11, 2012 @ 3:30a) |

Update: I went to Microcenter over the weekend, and it actually ended up being cheaper to go with the IB i5 (3570k) versus... (more)

JTausTX (May. 14, 2012 @ 7:58a) |

I believe one of the benefits of IB is that it has GPU built-in.

deckrunr (May. 14, 2012 @ 5:38p) |

 

Thanks for visiting FatWallet.com. Join for free to remove this ad.

ditch w7
switch to ubuntu
and get yourself when of them energy i3 celerons


Watch out for hidden costs such as shipping and return policies. Bad components are not unheard of and having to return them on your own dime will destroy any savings you had planned in the first place.



pietromoon said:   ditch w7
switch to ubuntu

I have been a long time Ubuntu user but the new Unity interface drives me nuts. When I do my new build I'll probably go to either Debian or Mint (Ubuntu derivative which has several classic Gnome options). To OPs question, I generally do builds around black Friday/Xmas as the deals seem hotter or at least easier to find. Otherwise I keep my eyes peeled for deals and take my time to find components at good prices. The problem with this approach is it can take quite some time to get all the parts. I also recycle parts from previous builds over time. Cases, hard drives and power supplies all lend themselves to reuse, particularly if they were higher quality to start with.


I've never used a Linux setup; how easy to use are they for a lifelong Windows user? And will they run my games and other programs?

secstate: The impetus for my build is the upcoming release of Diablo III so I don't think I can wait until Black Friday. Thanks to some FWF deals I've got about $700 worth of Amazon GCs to use, so my out-of-pocket cost won't be too high. Per advice on another forum, though, I'm ditching the sound card, and a friend has a used optical drive that he'll let me have. So that's nearly $50 saved right there.


JTausTX said:   Also, I could scavenge some pieces (SATA HD, wireless card, optical drive, RAM) from my current desktop to save $100-150, but I'm worried that since I've never done this before, I'll accidentally damage or destroy the components and then I won't have a backup PC. When moving a hard drive to a new PC, does it just... kind of get up and running immediately? Or are there other steps that I'm not aware of?Be careful not to connect anything backwards, short the motherboard to the case (usually around the mounting holes or corners), or zap electronics with static electricity. The latter is an invisible killer (you can generate harmful voltage without sensing it), but it helps a lot to work in 30% or higher humidity and not wear socks, shoes, or long sleeves. Use an anti-static wrist strap according to directions or cover the whole table top with anti-static material, like pink anti-static bubble wrap (not all pink bubble wrap is anti-static).

Don't use your primary hard drive. Instead use one of the bootable copies you made of it. Of course you have such copies because you're not 100% careless. But if you don't do that, Windows should still work OK, although it will first complain about the new hardware and probably ask for the Windows DVD to install the right drivers.


i wouldnt buy used parts but that is just me....

sign up for Newegg's daily deals... while 2500k is good, next gen processors are out now.... alot of PS and memory usually have rebates at Newegg....

I normally get deals from Amazon, Newegg or Staples with their $25/$75 off coupons and ink recycling..... free shipping/no taxes also help!

On top of those, use a credit card with rewards.... paypal MC gives 1.5% and fatwallet CB helps as well


Some parts i recommend:

Sabertooth P67 motherboard
G.SKILL Ripjaws X ram (~$45)
minimum 120gb SSD - i have used 3 OCZ agility 3 and vertex 3 with no issues.... ($109-$125 AR) read/write 500mb/s+


Price at a couple of other retailers. If you're lucky and live near a Microcenter, they often have prices that will beat TigerDirect and Newegg, and you save on shipping. Even WalMart is starting to carry some components and you should price compare with them.

I don't advise getting parts from eBay. Most of the vendors sell stuff at the same or higher prices than at a retailer and don't do returns, so if you get a bad part, you're stuck with it. A few do 14 days returns, but if you pay and they don't ship right away, by the time you get it, you may only have a couple of days to return it.

Since you have a lot of Amazon GCs, I suggest ordering a "Barebones" system (sold by TigerDirect on Amazon) that usually comes with Case, MotherBoard, CPU, RAM, HDD or SSD, DVD & PSU. You can add any Video and Wireless card you want. Buying a bundle can save you even more on components. They may not all be the ones you want but it can save you on the overall build.

Your friend is right. Unless you are a serious "audiophile" the sound cards that are build into most boards today are more than adequate for gaming and even Blu-Ray Digital Audio. I'd invest that money in a good speaker system. The best sound card in the world wont make up for crappy speakers!!!

BTW. I ran the beta of Diabo III on my Intel Dual Core E7200 w/8GB Ram and a GT9600 with no problems. No slowdowns. The setting were auto-set by the game for my system and most of them were at or near max. So any of the new I-series processors should run it excellently.

Good Luck

Techrat


I had assembled for about $500 an AMD quad core about 2 years ago.
The only problem was with the OCZ power supply which was replaced by OCZ( had to pay shipping ) with a refurbished one under warranty which broke again after a few months.

Bought corsair and is working like a charm....

Recommend not buying OCZ PSU.


Steam is coming to Linux !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 So the games are coming right around the corner


HERE!!!

Oh and I salvage everything, my DVD drive is 8 years old and on it's 3rd build and is IDE


Be a little flexible on parts if possible (case, power supply, video card, etc). Go for good sale prices and rebate offers on items with good reviews. A little waiting/hunting can save you a significant amount if you aren't in immediate need of a machine.


Random thoughts:
- 8 GB of RAM is more than enough; I only buy Corsair RAM
- I would stick with Windows for a primary machine
- Core i5 2500k is the Sandy Bridge part; I would spend the extra and get the Ivy Bridge equivalent
- On board sound is generally adequate unless the most discriminating audiophile
- I don't buy used parts... period.
- Start a new system with a new hard drive. The $100 you save won't be worth the hassle when your boot drive fails
- Your random optical drive should only cost about $20


1)where to buy components- just search the internet. Newegg is also a very popular place. If you have microcenter nearby, they can have killer CPU deals.
2)sound card- I have on in my computer, but generally most MBs have pretty good integrated sound, so I would not get one to start with- if you have to have one it would be easily added. Heck when I built my recent build I had a soundcard to use (xifi- nice card) but I just left it out...
3)I wouldn't buy used components on eBay.
4)Optical drive-definitely reuse this.
5)Probably reuse wireless card-it will probably be compatible (unless it is really old and your new mb doesnt have the right slots- see what slots they are and see if you have the space)..
5)Ram- good chance it won't work- reuse if you can but likely have to buy new memory.
6)SATA HD- reuse if you would like. The computer might just boot up and run fine off the old HD (can always try) but a clean windows install is highly recommended. Also if you want more storage/backup, you could buy a new HD and install windows on the new HD (old HD not installed yet), then after you are booting into windows fine, power down and install the old HD- now you can copy files over to the new HD and then clear the old Hd/save it for backup/whatever.
7)Linux- really guys? Linux is cool and all but I don't rush to recommend it to people. W7 is the way to go for most PC users.


What are you going to use the computer for?

Is it going to be a gaming pc? htpc? cad/photoshop/transcoding workstation? Or just a general home use (office apps / web surfing / music) with the occasional gaming pc.

We can provide you better advice based on the answer to the above question.


Thanks again all. I do have a Microcenter nearby (I live in Dallas, there's one in Richardson apparently), so I checked their prices, and I'll buy my processor there to save $50 or more.

One question about the Ivy Bridge: will the i5 3570k run correctly and well on the same MB as the 2500k? The reviews on Microcenter for the 3570k indicate that most people are running with a Z77 MB instead of a Z68... but I am not sure what the compatibility with all my other components would be. How much performance boost is there with 3570k versus 2500k?


ymarker said:   What are you going to use the computer for?

Is it going to be a gaming pc? htpc? cad/photoshop/transcoding workstation? Or just a general home use (office apps / web surfing / music) with the occasional gaming pc.

We can provide you better advice based on the answer to the above question.

Mostly gaming, but obviously everyday tasks as well. No heavy graphics/sound editing, not CAD, etc.


Re: Microcenter- they make the CPU a 'loss leader', hoping you drop another $500 on components- so while they can't force you to get other parts there, I do try to show some appreciation to them and in general I will try to pick up other parts if they are reasonably priced (like if the RAM is $5 more there, I will get it there). If you don't get other parts there- they can't force you, but they will pressure you pretty hard- just be prepared.

In the past 2 builds the MB was cheap enough there to get it there, and I've also gotten RAM and graphics cards there- their prices can be very good on some items. Plus I LOVE have a local computer store like that around.


JTausTX said:   ymarker said:   What are you going to use the computer for?

Is it going to be a gaming pc? htpc? cad/photoshop/transcoding workstation? Or just a general home use (office apps / web surfing / music) with the occasional gaming pc.

We can provide you better advice based on the answer to the above question.


Mostly gaming, but obviously everyday tasks as well. No heavy graphics/sound editing, not CAD, etc.

and pron?


JTausTX said:   Thanks again all. I do have a Microcenter nearby (I live in Dallas, there's one in Richardson apparently), so I checked their prices, and I'll buy my processor there to save $50 or more.

One question about the Ivy Bridge: will the i5 3570k run correctly and well on the same MB as the 2500k? The reviews on Microcenter for the 3570k indicate that most people are running with a Z77 MB instead of a Z68... but I am not sure what the compatibility with all my other components would be. How much performance boost is there with 3570k versus 2500k?


Have you done any research on your own? you will only continue to get mixed comments from here due to the different types of hardware out there available
simple google search

Always best to check hardware specifications on what is compatibile


I built a gaming PC with core i5-2500K early last year. In 2012, I would seriously look at ivy bridge.

CPU Agree with going to microcenter to pick up their ivy deal.

SOUND - you don't need a sound card

GFX Card - Please read Tom's hardware May 2012 review to see what is the best gfx for your budget. Link

HDD - re-use your old sata hdd for storage

SSD - There are a bunch of deals going on this. It'll make a significant difference in your experience. You can get 128gb ones for $99. Obviously the larger the better. Use the SSD for the OS and apps/games and the HDD for storage.

For gaming, they key component is the gfx card. The current ivy bridge and ssd will be key components in your build. The other factor to consider is the display device - are you going to game on your big screen tv? What about a gaming mouse? There was a deal for a 28" lcd for about $200 which isn't bad, though I'd rather go for the $300 24" 1920x1200 IPS screen.

I used to game on the 52" lcd and also use that to watch HD movies. Now I prefer to game on a 30" 2560x1600 Dell though this along with the gfx card to drive it will set you back $$.

If you'll be playing online, I'd think twice about wireless. Suggest wired connection.


camar0 said:   JTausTX said:   Thanks again all. I do have a Microcenter nearby (I live in Dallas, there's one in Richardson apparently), so I checked their prices, and I'll buy my processor there to save $50 or more.

One question about the Ivy Bridge: will the i5 3570k run correctly and well on the same MB as the 2500k? The reviews on Microcenter for the 3570k indicate that most people are running with a Z77 MB instead of a Z68... but I am not sure what the compatibility with all my other components would be. How much performance boost is there with 3570k versus 2500k?



Have you done any research on your own? you will only continue to get mixed comments from here due to the different types of hardware out there available
simple google search

Always best to check hardware specifications on what is compatibile


I have been doing research, which points out that Z68s are compatible with IB CPUs, but won't get all of the benefits, for example native PCI e 3.0 or some such (I'm no expert). As I'm not going to be running a 600 series Geforce or 7000 (I think) Radeon, I don't need to worry about this. Still, the price is only $20 different at Microcenter, so I'll probably spring for the faster card.

ymarker said:   I built a gaming PC with core i5-2500K early last year. In 2012, I would seriously look at ivy bridge.

CPU Agree with going to microcenter to pick up their ivy deal.

SOUND - you don't need a sound card

GFX Card - Please read Tom's hardware May 2012 review to see what is the best gfx for your budget. Link

HDD - re-use your old sata hdd for storage

SSD - There are a bunch of deals going on this. It'll make a significant difference in your experience. You can get 128gb ones for $99. Obviously the larger the better. Use the SSD for the OS and apps/games and the HDD for storage.

For gaming, they key component is the gfx card. The current ivy bridge and ssd will be key components in your build. The other factor to consider is the display device - are you going to game on your big screen tv? What about a gaming mouse? There was a deal for a 28" lcd for about $200 which isn't bad, though I'd rather go for the $300 24" 1920x1200 IPS screen.

I used to game on the 52" lcd and also use that to watch HD movies. Now I prefer to game on a 30" 2560x1600 Dell though this along with the gfx card to drive it will set you back $$.

If you'll be playing online, I'd think twice about wireless. Suggest wired connection.

I am using a 19" non-HD monitor currently. I don't plan on using a TV, but like I said I plan to upgrade my monitor; I'm thinking a 24" HD. I don't want to strain my budget too far, so I probably won't be getting top-of-the-line, but it'll be a definite improvement over what I have currently.

As for the rest, it all sounds good but again I want to be price-conscious; I know that SSDs would run much faster, but I can always add one later, and since I'm also going to have to buy my OS I don't know that I want to spend the money now unless I see an awesome deal.


Here is a similar build from Maximum PC magazine:

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/build_pc_any_budget_th...


kantoquad said:   Steam is coming to Linux !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 So the games are coming right around the corner


HERE!!!

Steam (and Valve games by proxy) may be coming to Linux, but that doesn't mean EA or Activision will follow Valve. I'd take the news of a Linux Steam client being Really Soon(TM) with a grain of salt; Phoronix has been posting about a Linux Steam client being in the works since 2010. For all that Michael Larabel writes of Gabe Newell's support of Linux, he never provides any supporting quotes and even mentions within the Phoronix article that not many Valve developers were working on it.

JTausTX, stick to Windows 7 if you want to do any gaming for the near future. The Linux Steam client could be anywhere from two months to two years from now, in Valve Time.


Check Newegg open box gaming PC's everyday. I got http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883229253R for $520 almost a year ago. I played many games and had no issues running them on high settings. I'm going to replace power supply just to be safe once I'll find some good deal.


I was going to post but ymarker pretty much said it all. I'd also suggest not spending so much on the video card. The PC gaming industry is barely pushing the envelope on your typical $100-150 video card. Also consider buying an Asrock (made by Asus) or other MB for less. With the Ivy Bridge, you really don't need to Overclock; tmes have changed. Forget Ubuntu.


You should probably just get the processor from Microcenter, plus the new i5 3570 is better than the i5 2500. They also have an Asus Z77 motherboard for $89 if you get it with the chip otherwise it's an extra $50. It's usually one of the better deals around. So unless you already have the Z68, you mind as well get the Z77, it has more features than the Z68 anyway. Also the video card you mentioned just suggests a minimum of a 450 watt power supply. Doesn't sound like you're going to load it up too much so maybe 650 might be a little overkill. I got an OCZ 550 watt bronze power supply a couple months back for $23. They don't have that good a rep though but I guess I'll see how long it lasts, it replaced a Corsair 430 watt supply that died after 1.5 years.

As others said, skip buying used, you can usually get a better deal new and if you don't build it for a while, you might have a DOA part and not know it for a while. You're also usually better off installing the OS from scratch instead of porting one over.

It's too bad that it's more expensive these days to roll your own that to buy one pre-built. I think that's mostly because of the OS, OEM's get it much cheaper than a consumer plus of course they get volume discounts on parts.


I am amazed how little you guys actually know. Real world performance will not matter which cpu he uses, no one could ever tell the difference. If you can save on the 2500 get it. Motherboards are one of the biggest money wasters. Go cheap with a gigabyte or ECS or anything in the $50 to $70. The key to your entire setup is the MONITOR........ Resolution determines everything, and you are using a tiny 19". Get a nvidia 460 for $100 or so and you will have all the card you will need. You should be able to do the whole thing for under $500. I do this everyday as a pro and get to see the actual difference if any in all types of builds. You would be amazed how much is marketing bullshit. Buy cheap and buy often, you can never get ahead of the curve.


The price difference on last years sb 2500k and the current year ib is $20. Disagree with buy cheap and buy often for pc parts. Agree with Rez being key. Gaming on a 19" in 2012 makes me sad especially considering the deals on 24" and larger 1080 monitors


recom said:   I am amazed how little you guys actually know. Real world performance will not matter which cpu he uses, no one could ever tell the difference. If you can save on the 2500 get it. Motherboards are one of the biggest money wasters. Go cheap with a gigabyte or ECS or anything in the $50 to $70. The key to your entire setup is the MONITOR........ Resolution determines everything, and you are using a tiny 19". Get a nvidia 460 for $100 or so and you will have all the card you will need. You should be able to do the whole thing for under $500. I do this everyday as a pro and get to see the actual difference if any in all types of builds. You would be amazed how much is marketing bullshit. Buy cheap and buy often, you can never get ahead of the curve.

Not exactly true. I also work in IT and agree that alot of what is sold is based on marketing hype. "You should buy the newest fastest that blows away...blah, blah, blah." But exaggerated as some of the claims are, they do have a small basis in fact.

The difference between two I5s of different speeds or an I3 and an I5 might not be noticeable, but you can definitely tell the difference between a Celeron and I7 while booting, working, and especially during intense gaming. Even with a good graphics card a slow processor can still kill your frame rate during gaming. You don't have to buy top of the line but you shouldn't go bottom of the barrel either. A step down two or three from the top should be sufficient.

Motherboards ARE a big money waster, you pay for features, bells and whistles that 90% of the average users will NEVER use. Although I wouldn't go too cheap. It can means the difference between having a working board and one that comes DOA or fries like a potato with the slightest variation on voltage. And the cheaper MSI and ECS boards are especially known for this (Experienced it first hand). If you go cheap, stick with EGA, Intel, Asus or Gigabyte. Gigabyte touts that even their cheapest boards are more durable and resistant to wrong voltages, although I prefer Asus.

I do recommend getting the GTX 460 and getting a monitor with the fastest refresh you can find. A great monitor does help alot but it is not the Be All, End All of your build. Its like a sound card and speakers. If one or the other is crappy then your sound is going to be crappy. The best speakers in the world is not going to make a bad sound card work better. Just like the best monitor in the world is not going to make your CPU or GPU run any faster.


recom said:   I am amazed how little you guys actually know. Real world performance will not matter which cpu he uses, no one could ever tell the difference. If you can save on the 2500 get it. Motherboards are one of the biggest money wasters. Go cheap with a gigabyte or ECS or anything in the $50 to $70. The key to your entire setup is the MONITOR........ Resolution determines everything, and you are using a tiny 19". Get a nvidia 460 for $100 or so and you will have all the card you will need. You should be able to do the whole thing for under $500. I do this everyday as a pro and get to see the actual difference if any in all types of builds. You would be amazed how much is marketing bullshit. Buy cheap and buy often, you can never get ahead of the curve.

I think you don't know how Microcenter works. The difference between the 2500 and the 3570 is $20, however if you buy the 3570, you can get an extra $50 off the motherboard, if you just get the 2500, no extra $50 off the motherboard. If you really wanted to go cheap, Microcenter has some AMD chip and motherboard combos that start at $100. As he's into gaming, one thing that would matter on the motherboard was whether it had one or two slots for a video card where he can SLI them.

I've always built my own for the last 20+ years, but I always recommend that people buy one pre-built if they don't know what they're doing.


I built my own last year and was able to put it together for about $300-400.

Strategies I used:
Microcenter motherboard + CPU $130 after rebate this was an AMD quadcore 3.2 GHz and a gigabyte mb. I went for one of the MBS for which you pay $20 more rather than a free one--the free ones are typically lower quality (read all the reviews at Newegg/Amazon). After a lot of research Microcenter or Newegg Combo Search were the two cheapest options for this part.
DVD drive: Sony ~$20 found at Staples in their clearance (occasionally you can find PC components for cheap at Staples)
Power Supply: Newegg Shell Shocker $25 Newegg frequently discounts corsair power supplies and if you check there or techbargains you can get one fairly cheaply.
Ram: Watched FW techbargains and saw a deal got the memory fairly cheaply.
Video Card: 9600GT from Staples on clearance for about $20
Case: Yard Sale ($2)
OS: Yard sale case had XP sticker which I called MS about and was able to get transferred. Alternatively if you are in school most universiites have deals with microsoft (MS academic alliance). I also had a friend in Microsoft who could get me windows 7 for about $30.
Mouse/Keyboard salvaged from older PCs as was monitor (I also use the TV as a monitor as the MB has HDMI out).


What does MS need when they want you to confirm that you're a student for a student discount on Windows 7? I see that they have an edition for like $70, and I still have a functional .edu email address. As I recall that was the only thing I needed last time I did it (ordered a copy for my mom while in college).


I only meant between the 2 i5's he was considering. Major difference between celeron to i7.


Update: I went to Microcenter over the weekend, and it actually ended up being cheaper to go with the IB i5 (3570k) versus the SB due to a sale on the associated motherboard. I got a Z77 with the i5 3570k with all the features I need (including on-board Wifi) for $368. Ordered my case, optical drive, an extra 200mm LED fan, and 8gb of RAM on Amazon for about $150. So physically all I need now is my GPU, HDD, and PSU, which should be about $400.


I believe one of the benefits of IB is that it has GPU built-in.




Disclaimer: By providing links to other sites, FatWallet.com does not guarantee, approve or endorse the information or products available at these sites, nor does a link indicate any association with or endorsement by the linked site to FatWallet.com.

Thanks for visiting FatWallet.com. Join for free to remove this ad.

While FatWallet makes every effort to post correct information, offers are subject to change without notice.
Some exclusions may apply based upon merchant policies.
© 1999-2013