Count26 said:here's the deal I got so far: Silver EX-L w/Navi, running boards, crossbars, wheel locks, cargo net, and rear mud guards. Plus I got them to waive the DOC Fee =P. Price 30,050(that put me well under invocie) right where I wanted to be.Only problem was APR First they offered 5.9% I was like are you kidding try again please. They come back with 4.39% (my g/f's mom has stellar credit plus they've financed with AHFC b4) but I already had in mind what APR I wanted and I was not going to settle unless I got 3.69%. So we walked... I'm not worry too much. There are always deals to be had. and the time to buy is ripe on 04 models. If I dont get a call back I'll sharpened up my game plan for the great labor day bash!

so low ball them on the interest rate too hit with 1.9%

bobes said:anyone know what the best strategy is if you plan on trading in an existing car?

is it negotiate the price of the car first using info from this thread, then say that I'm trading in?

The best thing you could do is sell your car yourself. If you trade it in you'll only get blackbook value, which is wholesale. You cant expect them to pay retail for your car, what will they sell it for?

Great thread here. Excellent advice.

I always use the tactics and information from fighting chance

It's the best

poppagene said:I always use the tactics and information from fighting chance

It's the best

Very funny stuff....

This is one guy who set up this web site and put together these eBooks. I doubt he's a former saleman or has any real automotive buying/selling experience.

Again I'm giving away what many of the so called car buying masters will charge you for. Count's testimonails should be proof of that. Anyone in the NC/SC area need help buying a car let me know, I'll go with you to the dealer and negotiate to invoice or less for you. I wont charge you a dime. Just lunch....lol.

Any salesman or former salesman would not endorse the "Fax Attack"

mrblackpcs is the ultimate negotiator.

mrblackpcs2 said:hooked said:Hey mrblackpcs2, how about planning a roadtrip down to S. Florida at the end of 2005 when I'm ready to buy my car???

Thanks for all the tips. I'm gathering ammunition early to get the best deal before I go into "battle"!!!

What kind of vehicle are you looking at?

You might be in luck, i have time share in orange lake

Hell, swing by Gainesville next time you're passing through and hook me up with a new car I'll buy you lunch *and* dinner at the Ale House.

--
Daniel

hooked said:mrblackpcs2 said:hooked said:Hey mrblackpcs2, how about planning a roadtrip down to S. Florida at the end of 2005 when I'm ready to buy my car???

Thanks for all the tips. I'm gathering ammunition early to get the best deal before I go into "battle"!!!

What kind of vehicle are you looking at?

You might be in luck, i have time share in orange lake

Cool! I'm still debating and depends how things go in 2005...should I be practical and get an Accord Hybrid or splurge and get a BMW 3 series...decisions, decisions!

If you go bmx get a real one, get the 5 series

mrblackpcs2,

excellent advice! i'm curious though if different companies have major differences in holdback, invoice figuring on edmunds, etc. that come into play as you offer X below invoice and try to get to the invoice price.

1) specifically, can i use the same principles with amy foreign company (Honda, Mazda, Toyota, etc.) as a Big Three? after all, Honda doesn't really rebate, so wonder if that is somehow reflected in the edmunds invoice number.

2) any difference in strategy (whole dollar or percentage amounts) depending upon whether you're looking for a $20k or $40k car?

Okay, there's a lot of good advice out here, but I've got a few things to add too. I've taken a zillion business courses over the years, including negotiating. I've negotiated for a ton of things, including cars, both used and new and I've got a few things to share too. Most of the advice that's been given is right on and should work, but when it comes to paying invoice, you can definitely get the car for at least $1,000 less than invoice if you negotiate it right. While it makes sense that the best time to buy the car is at the end of the month, that's not always true. You can negotiate a good deal at any time if you've got a good strategy. I usually just let them show me around, then I tell them what I'm looking for (I always know what I want before I go in) and then we sit down and talk. These points are not unethical like some of the things I've already heard. Be honest about what you're doing and don't lie, just be flexible. Here are a few points that somewhat mirror what's already been said.

1) You need a good BATNA. What's a BATNA? It's the Best Alternative To a Negotiated Agreement. Basically what are your options if you don't come to an agreement? You can walk out the door. You can always still give in and purchase it 100% on their terms. You can just not purchase one at all. You can purcahse at another dealer. You can look at a different model car, etc. Just your other options. Be willing to walk out. Be willing to buy a different car. Be willing to change your strategy.

2) The principle of bracketing. Bracketing is really saying that almost all negotiations will "meet in the middle." I offer $5000, they offer $10000, We usually end up somewhere in the middle around $7500. So if you're willing to pay $29000, They offered $31000, you should offer $27000. That'll get you to about $29000 when you're done. This is an especially effective technique.

3) Who should make the first offer? Should you make the first offer as has been suggested by other in this thread? Maybe. Sometimes it's to your advantage, sometimes it's not. I've walked into a dealership where they had a sticker of $16500, they offered me flat invoice at $14500 to start. Big mistake on their part. Ended up getting around $13000 for a brand new Honda Civic. Sometimes the first offer ends up as the anchor point and negotiations always go up or down from that number. Don't let that happen unless it's to your advantage. If they offer something that's way too high, offer something that's way too low to remove the anchor price.

4) You need to give something in order to get. I don't mean offer to buy an alarm at $1000 if they cut the vehicle price by $500. Offer to "consider" buying an alarm or extended warranty from them if they're willing to give you your price. Point out the fact that if you finance through them or you buy some other products from them, they'll make a lot more money on you. Yes, that may be giving a buying signal, but if you get the right price, you're going to buy, right? Just walking into the dealership is a buying signal. Sometimes you can get them to throw in free oil changes for 3 years or a moonroof, or even floor mats if you just ask for it. If maybe the negotiations are down to $100, maybe it might be worth just paying that extra $100 if you can get floor mats, free oil changes for 3 years and an extra set of keys (Which can be really expensive nowadays!).

5) Be prepared to invest some time. The more of their time you spend (waste?) with them, the more willing they would be to get you the deal you want. You could haggle for 8 hours and if they're still not giving you what you want, walk out. They'll be very unhappy about wasting 8 hours, and will most likely give you what you want. Don't waste their time, just invest some effort into negotiating a good deal.

6) Creep towards your limit. Let's say I really was willing to pay $22500, but I offered $20000. They said no way, be more realistic. If you go straight to $22500, jumping $2500, they'll think you can get a lot higher than that. Creep up slowly. Go to $2100. Next go to $2150. Maybe $2175 next. $2190 after that. By slowly diminishing the amount you're giving in each time, you're able to create the image that you're not going to go higher than $22000, because you keep going up in smaller increments. They may just sell it to you for $22000.

7) Show some interest. Some people say that you shouldn't show any buying signals. I disagree and I think you should. If you intend to buy a car, tell them that. They'll take you more seriously that somebody who they're not sure of is really going to buy a car or not. If you tell them you're interested in purchasing a vehicle, they'll try harder to work for you. Just remember that you don't have to buy it from them, and don't get suckered into paying something you don't want to pay.

8) Be willing to make a deposit. Pull out your credit card and offer to make a $500-$1000 deposit "right now" if they'll give you what you want. It shows you're serious about your intent to purchase and they may be more willing to give you what you want if they can get a deposit.

Obviously negotiating skills come with experience and while I was never a car salesman or finance manager, these are just basic negotiating skills you can use in every aspect of life, not just when you're buying your car. Hope this helps some people, and flame all you want, everyone has their own style and techniques, I'm just sharing mine that work for me.