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Siding question - which is better?

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We just got an estimate on siding/sofit & facia for our home. This company uses the siding with built in (on) insulation and is a bit pricey. They say though that it's tougher (which with small kids, I can see baseballs and soccer balls hitting it) and that it keeps insects from boring into the wood, where as the wrapped insulation isn't as tough, insulation isn't as great and bugs can get in between. I know nothing about siding other than I know that we don't want to paint this huge house! Link to siding we're thinking of They also said the fade factor is very small compaired to "regular" vinyl siding.

I know how helpful you all are and would love some input, before I go completely broke!

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this calculator will show you the recommended R-value for your area. Might help you decide if you need more or not.

Recommended R-Values

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Thanks - it shows we need "extra"... we're in PA and can get wicked winters (which thankfully, haven't lately). Our house is 100+ years old and is starting to show it's age.

Too bad someone won the Powerball - I wouldn't have to be worrying about price... um, no, I still would. What type of FW'er would I be if I didn't?

We're also looking at windows, but I'm following that thread!

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pricey gimmick.

Foam has low r-value.

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If the foam actually improves the r value of your home, the extra cost may be justified. Energy costs, as we all know too well, keep rising. I'm doing everything I can to insulate and keep the heat in during the winter (and the cool in during the summer) of my existing home. I'm guessing that 100 year old house isn't all that well-insulated -- and every little bit is going to help.

My two cents ...

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http://www.coloradoenergy.org/procorner/stuff/r-values.htm

link to http://www.coloradoenergy.org/procorner/stuff/r-values.htm


This site shows how each layer adds to the R-value.

You get more bang out of the buck by adding or replacing fiberglass insulation.
You can find R-13, R-19, etc., which is higher than foam.

The r value of the foam is around 3 to 8.

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Vinyl siding must be "hung" on a house and the cold air will infiltrate behind the siding pretty easily defeating the value of any foam that is adhered to the back of the siding. I suggest you get another quote from another siding company and more than likely, they will wrap the house with 1/2" to 3/4" foam as part of the installation. This may be a much better alternative and is a normal installation practice for existing homes in my area (NY).

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That Colorado chart shows that single glazed windows with a storm are more efficient than a double glazed insulated window with a 3/16" air space!

Glad we fixed up our old windows with quality storms...

As for siding, we had to replace the original rotting pine clapboards on our 1870's rural New England home. Used clear vertical grain cedar clapboards, primed and stained on site, and 9 years later they look almost as good as the day they were installed. We might need to get them stained again in a few years.

We'd never consider vinyl on such an old house... loses all it's character. Just something about it.

We had insulation blown in with a 50% utility rebate which is available to everyone. They snaked tubes down the wall and blew in hundreds of pounds, and it made a huge difference. Check into having that done.

(fixed typo)

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Fiber cement siding is really good to use and is considered a green product. On TOH (this old house), they said it will last 50 years. It is very durable, looks good and can be painted so if you ever wanted to change the look of your house you can. Something to consider.

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Get brick, because siding is trashy.

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my midwestern contractor father in law swears by cement board lap siding

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OP, if you do go with any type of vinyl siding be sure to get extra pieces. Such a PITA when you've got to make a repair with no extras available (previous owner didn't have any) and it's been discontinued. Good luck!

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wale said:...We had insulation blown in with a 50% utility rebate which is available to everyone. They snaked tubes down the wall and blew in hundreds of pounds, and it made a huge difference. Check into having that done...

Blown cellulose in the walls also reduces air infiltration greatly. But you have to have empty walls to do it. Otherwise I would recommend wrapping with foam and sealing it air tight and siding over it. It looks like the siding with the foam attached would still let some air get through. Looking at their brochure, I do think it would be a little tougher, but I don't know if that would be enough to justify the extra cost.

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If you look at this link:
http://www.coloradoenergy.org/procorner/stuff/r-values.htm
it shows that insulated vinyl siding has a R-value of 1.8, compared to the R-value of .61 of non-insulated vinyl siding. I don't know the price of each, but I don't think the insulated siding hardly justifies the price. I would make sure that your house is well wrapped and concentrate on your wall insulation. If you are really concerned about insects and insulating your house, the only choice is spray foam:
http://www.sprayfoampennsylvania.com

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My next door neighbor got the siding with the the built-in foam on the back of it. The boards are probably 6" - 8" wide, and they look very nice.

He told me that this siding was more expensive than the traditional one.
One thing I have to say about this type of siding is that it is less time consuming to install - all you need to do is just install the siding, rather than wrapping the house with 1/2" or 3/4" and than put the siding on top. That might be one reason why the contractor is pushing for it!?

He also had his windows replaced.

Anyway, my neighbor is happy with the work done at this house. But than, all is subjective!! I am not a home contractor, so in no way I am suggesting anything. But I have done major improvement in my house (according to local codes, so I have learned a lot about a lot of things).

You should compare the R value of this siding (as indicated in the other replies) with the traditional siding. I am sure that there are other factors to be considered when deciding (looks, color, etc).

hope this helps

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I wouldn't do insulated siding. Think of all the gaps you would have in the insulation. Air will find its way in.
put a moisture barrier over the osb substrate, then depending on your location, install 1"-2" polyiso boards to achieve the required r-value (tape all seams) then install any siding over that. It is better to use thicker polyiso and don't insulate the stud walls on the interior. Insulation in the walls (new or old) has potential for mold growth.
Hope this helps.

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kaisersoisay said:If you look at this link:
http://www.coloradoenergy.org/procorner/stuff/r-values.htm
it shows that insulated vinyl siding has a R-value of 1.8, compared to the R-value of .61 of non-insulated vinyl siding. I don't know the price of each, but I don't think the insulated siding hardly justifies the price.
It appears the insulated siding is an improvement over non-insulated siding (almost 300% better). BUT ... is the extra cost worth the benefit? How long to recoup that additional investment. We need more information for us to solve this story problem ...

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I really really suggest Hardy Plank siding over vinyl or wood. It will last longer. Though vinyl does not require painting, it tends to look bad and peel off easily. Put good insulation between the studs and you should be fine. My $.02.

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