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Need advice and deals on washer-dryer (electric)..

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Hello Friends:

I am moving into a rental home by the end of this month and looking for electric washer-dryer. I dont even know what I need to look for in the washer-dryer. I have heard about Maytag, Kenmore, Whirlpool, and LG brands, but don't know anything about which ones are good. I checked at Sears yesterday, and the sales rep recommended Kenmore. There were so many variations in the models and in the prices, I just got confused.

Please guide.

Message edited by: ludhianvi on 2008-05-11 08:15:38 CDT

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This is one of those areas when it's easy to get lost.

First and second, plan out how much you truly want to spend and how often you plan on using it. A **LOT** of good deals are to be had on craigslist due to people moving and can't take theirs with them. Plan on typically $200-$300 for a decent fairly new pair with a top loader washer. This is likely your best route. Keep in mind that if you want to upgrade, you'll likely get all of your money back when you relist them on CL down the road.

As for new, for most people, top loader washers are just fine. The front loaders, which are more expensive, are great for those who wash a lot and can justify the extra cost in water savings as they use much less water for the job - and you clothing comes out of the washer less damp, saving electricity for the dryer. But plan on over $1000 or a new pair, and be cautious when buying used. There are some models out there in the used market that were duds (lemons).

Also, most brands on the market are made by just a few companies. Whirlpool makes Roper, Kenmore, Maytag, a number of store-specific brands and of course Whirlpool. The lowest end Roper and the Maytag at twice the price are mechanically the same unit inside the cabinet - you pay extra for features and bragging rights. The other maker is GE. You can buy a new pair of GE or a Whirlpool made unit (Roper or a store brand from HD) for $500-600 for the pair. Nothing fancy, not a lot of extra options, but they are new and under warranty.

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thekid72 Gave some most excellent pointers...I can only add...once you have a feel for what is the fair going price for a washer set, stop by Lowes. Lowes regularly puts their scratch & dents, order refused and model close-outs in the appliance aisle at great prices. You do need to recognize the deal and buy right away. Someone else will scarf it up before you can take a breath...

edit spelling-scoff to scarf

Message edited by: tihuy on 2008-05-11 16:31:39 CDT
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I bought a Kenmore washer 16 years ago, I do maybe 4 loads of laundry a week, and have never had a single problem with it. Check Consumer Reports, and don't just go by price. I paid $400.00 for mine, and got the large tub, rather than an offbrand, cheapo one with a small tub. I think the extra was worth it. My parents bought a cheap off brand 3 years ago, $250.00 and the hot water quit working 1 1/2 years later, and overflowed last week, something related to the hot water switch.

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We have always found great deals on resale sites for top of the line brands(Miele, Asko, Bosch)

These are smaller in size(can fit under counter) and can also be stacked!

Front loading and uses very little water.

Our set now, Asko, was only a couple of years old and rarely used by single person. I think we paid $300 for the set!!!

washer

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The Feb. 2008 issue of Consumer Reports has reviews of washers and dryers and found that all dryers were equally efficient when electric was compared to electric and gas to gas. If you don't care about the washer and dryer matching one another in looks, you can save a lot by purchasing the cheapest dryer that has automatic dryness sensing (some cheap ones have it only for high heat, and you probably also want it for low heat). Contrary to what Consumer Reports said, the type of dryness sensor that measures exhaust heat rather than makes electrical contact with the clothes works fine, at least with Whirlpool-made models (Roper, Estate, Costco Kirkland, Sears Kenmore).

If you want a cheap conventional top loader, Consumer Reports rated the $400 GE WJRE5500G and Estate (Whirlpool) ETW4400T as among the best at washing ability. Some conventional top loaders, and not just cheap ones, are now pretty bad because they've been poorly redesigned to meet new energy standards. I believe that no front loaders are particularly bad at washing, and Frigidaire makes some that cost only a little more, like under $700.

You may want to check the forums at FixItNow.com to see what models are troublesome or hard to work on. Generally Whirlpool-made units are reliable, parts are cheap, and their direct-drive conventional top loaders are hard to beat when it comes to servicing.

Message edited by: larrymoencurly on 2008-05-12 16:07:53 CDT
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vickielp said:I bought a Kenmore washer 16 years ago, I do maybe 4 loads of laundry a week, and have never had a single problem with it.We had a Whirlpool that was probably of the same design, only it was vintage 1980. It needed a couple of water pumps (shaft seal leaked and seized the bearing, hard water probably didn't help), which weren't that difficult or expensive to replace. The only reason we finally got rid of the washer was because its basket drive (clutch) wore out, and I didn't feel like spending $125 for a new part that I might not be able to install. The people at the parts store said that the particular washer design was about the best one ever made.

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larrymoencurly said:We had a Whirlpool that was probably of the same design, only it was vintage 1980. It needed a couple of water pumps (shaft seal leaked and seized the bearing, hard water probably didn't help), which weren't that difficult or expensive to replace. The only reason we finally got rid of the washer was because its basket drive (clutch) wore out, and I didn't feel like spending $125 for a new part that I might not be able to install. The people at the parts store said that the particular washer design was about the best one ever made.The same vintage washer came with my house. I had the same issue with the seized water pump on mine; replaced it and used it another 19 years before it started making a grinding noise when agitating. I'm not sure what the problem was, but I figured it was time to put it to rest.

I replaced it with a new Speed Queen top loader.

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I will say this, from someone who sold appliances for a year +, I studied everything I could about them (yes, us sales drones do do work ya know )

The bottom of the line Kenmore non elite model and the top of the line Kenmore elite model had a build cost differential of approximately $20.

Is that to say that the top of the line is only worth $20 more, no, you pay for features. But guts wise, there really is not a whole heckuva lot of difference between the low end and the high end (I'm not talking about the HE5 line, I'm talking conventionals).

This concept applies across all manufacturing lines. If you seen an actual buyer sheet and what the stores paid for each model, you clearly understand why the higher end lines are more profitable, their cost to build, and purchase, is considerably less.

Model A has 4 features, costs $200 to build, sells for $249
Model B has 12 features, costs $220 to build, sells for $449.

You are paying for features. The higher end ones have more insulation in them, making them quieter somewhat, but balancing of the units is the key. Also, you can sometimes find those rubber bumper type things for your appliance feet, it will help dissipate some of the vibration to the floor of your apt, making them quieter also, for considerably less money.

I sold all brands that Sears sold, I own GE HE units. I bought floor models, even has an employee, I saw a heckuva deal, I got washer + dryer for $1100 + $300 for 3 year warranty's on each (I don't need to hear from the anti-warranty folks, I was padding my own pocket in the end anyway.)

P.S. - If you do purchase a warranty, at least in relation to Sears. Tell the salesman you'd be glad to buy one on both units, if they want to discount both warranties by 10%. They will in most cases, everyone has to hit #'s, and while management doesn't like to see the 10% off the warranty, they will accept that a warranty purchase @ 90% is better than none @ 0%. So use that to your advantage.

Me personally, if I had to purchase again, I would still go with the GE units, I'm a guy, and these make washing clothes so simple. They basically have everything you'd want to clean material wise, and any stain you want to fight, already pre-configured. A few button presses, and everything comes out perfect everytime. I don't read clothes tags, I wash normally in cold/cold cold/warm. But for those nasty stains, I let the machine decide.

If you have questions about the lines Ludhianvi, you're welcome to PM me, my information is slightly outdated as its been a year since I worked with them, but I can tell you the basics from a non salesman language.

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Are there any Sears Outlet stores near you? They sell scratch & dent appliances there. I bought my front load washer plus a dryer there a few years ago. They actually had an additional coupon the week I went so it something like $400-450 for the front loading washer push the dryer was in the $250 range. A few dings on them, but they were going in the basement so I didn't care.

Message edited by: ellone on 2008-05-13 14:28:19 CDT
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I got a Kenmore HE2 Washer and dryer for $579 a piece brand new. Watch Sears prices online - they are somewhat scheming, they will raise the price then have a sale, and then lower it again for normal sale. Got in at a 20% rebate by buying multiple appliances, then 5% off night.

I wouldnt recommend the HE2 washer. While it is a good washer, at high spin speeds it rattles bad. The tech said there's nothing they can do about it and almost every single one has this problem.

Check out lowes for the stands for the front loaders, they generally have them for cheaper. Sears will price match.

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perfect timing for this thread!

My wife and I will be moving into a new house in early June and are starting to look for deals and at different models!

Also, I know TX has a tax free Memorial day weekend for Energy Star appliances, you may want to check to see if your state does something similar.

I'm also interested in any of the brand resale sites. Those Asko washers look cool! Links anyone?

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Check Coscto to see what they have. It's not a large selection, but it will probably not be junk and will be priced very nicely.

My theory on this stuff is pretty simple. Keep in mind that I am not intersted in repairing washers and dryers myself. If its a broken latch or door, no problem. I've even replaced broken belts on dryers. Anything other than that, and I'm just gonna waste too much of my own time trying to fix it.

In the Seattle area, you can expect it to cost $100+/hr for appliance repair labor and that does not include parts. Many times, there is a minimum travel time included. So I'd imagine most repairs are going to cost you $150+. I have a very hard time paying that when I can go buy a new unit at costco for $200, which is what I paid for my last dryer. I replaced a gas dryer that cost me $600 in 1998. It lasted 7 years. My $200 costco dryer has lasted 3 so far and has no signs of trouble.

-johnniewalker

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Quick advice:

One of my friends takes old washing machines, restores them and sells them. He says that Maytag, and Whirlpool make the best of the best. He said GE is crap.

I have a maytag front loader, very nice! Reliable.

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I bought a Fisher Paykel GWL15 Ecosmart washer a couple years ago and have had great luck with it. A couple appliance stores locally recommended them when i was looking. It's a toploader, but just as efficient as a frontloader. From what I've been told, they have something like 5 moving parts in the entire unit, so the shops here claim they hardly ever fail on them. And it spins at 1000 RPM's, so the clothes are fairly dry when they come out, which cuts down on my dryer usage. You might check out some reviews on them, but after using it for a couple years I've been impressed. My parents bought a high end Whirlpool frontload set about the same time and have had the service tech out twice to repair them.

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