Its PN is 97F9816. Google that, lots of vendors. One example for $38, though please shop around and research vendors as always. http://www.shortyspumps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=28&products_id=231
Might not be stocked locally, but check any mom & pop GE parts folks.
thx for your email. I am looking for local store where I can go and buy.
tedmales
Member
posted: Mar. 11, 2010 @ 2:38p
You need to look for a heating and cooling supply house. Most will not sell to people over the counter, but maybe for something as simple as a cap they might.
comprx said: Be careful replacing it. Capacitors hold a charge, even if you think it's dead. That one looks like it could pack a wallop.totally agree! please understand that you need to discharge the capacitor before replacing it! be careful!
thank all for your valuable reply. another question, is that possible that I can test this capacitor before replacing? I removed the original capacitor (thanks for the tip to discharge). what does the picture shows? does it looks like its bad/burned?
I checked grainer's website and when I search this model, the following showed up. Grainer Link
This one doesn't like the one I had, but specs looks same to me. can some expert plz. suggest?
byteless said: thank all for your valuable reply. another question, is that possible that I can test this capacitor before replacing? I removed the original capacitor (thanks for the tip to discharge). what does the picture shows? does it looks like its bad/burned?Yes. The badly corroded terminals are one hint. Also the plastic insulating "shroud" (for lack of a better term) around the rightmost terminal in the photo looks like it has melted on the left hand side. Definitely replace it. I checked grainer's website and when I search this model, the following showed up. Grainer Link
This one doesn't like the one I had, but specs looks same to me. can some expert plz. suggest?I assume you mean it doesn't look like yours, not that there are personality issues. Different mfr., slightly different specs (60/7.5 mf vs 60/5 in yours) but likely a suitable sub. Take yours in and talk to the counter folks and see if they have any concerns. If you want an identical replacement, order online or look up other electrical or HVAC supply shops in your area and talk to them.
Good luck. Nothing like the satisfaction like fixing something like that on your own for the cost of parts.
mmmmattd
Dismembered Member
posted: Mar. 12, 2010 @ 8:40a
what is not working on the heat pump? I had a cap fail on my central air unit about 3 years ago which was evidenced by the main fan turning backwards or not at all during startup. If you gave it some help the fan would very slowly get up to about half speed in the right direction. The cap is there to help the fan get up to speed. I replaced it with a cap from Grainger, same microfarad rating but 370v instead of the 440v cap that was in the unit. It has been running fine since.
the fan is not turning on. When I turn my heating ON, I see the air coming from the vents, but when I check outside Air handler, the fan is not working.
Appliance Parts store is a good option. I bought ignitor for gas furnace at one. Same part used in gas dryers. Counter folks likely to have expertise. Your heat pump (if modern) may have diagnostic codes. That's how I found the bad ignitor on my furnace - blinking codes on circuit board + manual led to quick diagnosis.
wolfgangdieter
Wacky Member
posted: Mar. 12, 2010 @ 10:21a
Try Tribles Appliance Parts - bought several such parts from them. Despite fact that I have a Trane heat pump - internal parts are generic. 6200 Gravel Avenue, Alexandria Virginia 22310, (703)-921-2150 If not in stock takes a day to get from whare house in MD.
danielz1g
New Member
posted: Mar. 12, 2010 @ 11:36a
You can not replace your capacitor with the one that the grainger guy suggested. Your capacitor is actually 2 capacitors in one. Hence 60/5. 60mfd is needed for the a/c compressor and 5mfd is needed for the fan. You will notice this because the one in your unit has 3 terminals and the one the guy at grainger suggested only has 2.
byteless said: ...is that possible that I can test this capacitor before replacing?IME, most troubleshooting starts off with replacing the 'most likely part(s) to cause the stated problem'. Only when the EASY way fails do you resort to testing components.
byteless said: ...I checked grainer's website and when I search this model, the following showed up. Grainer Link
This one doesn't like the one I had, but specs looks same to me. can some expert plz. suggest?Did you read the LINK I provided for DIYChatRoom?
If you want experts, SKIP4661 diagnosed what sounds to me the SAME problem over there.
byteless said: spoke with grainger tech guy and he recommended this capacitor. Capacitor 2
that is even cheaper, and I guess I am gonna go ahead and replace this and see if I got luck to have the air handler working.IMO, you've now made a VERY BAD DECISION!
It appears that either YOU provided the Grainger guy with incorrect information or HE misunderstood something since you cannot replace a 60/5 MFD 370VAC *THREE* terminal capacitor with a 5 MFD 370VAC TWO terminal capacitor.
I don't want to insult you or appear rude, but if you don't realize that's a BAD DECISION, you probably shouldn't be working on this equipment. You might hurt yourself, you might cause a fire, etc...
danielz1g said: ...Your capacitor is actually 2 capacitors in one. Hence 60/5. 60mfd is needed for the a/c compressor and 5mfd is needed for the fan...Do you do this for a living?
I'm curious why they use "2 Caps in 1 Can" - is that an industry standard?
Since the A/C compressor (60 MFD) is still working, a person could REWIRE things, disconnect the wires from the bad 5 MFD section and install a new, separate 5 MFD cap. But, would that void UL listing / safety and be something the insurance company would use to deny payment IF anything on that system happened to cause a fire, etc...?
dredgfan
New Member
posted: Mar. 12, 2010 @ 10:17p
FYI... good hints on here about being careful about replacing a part like this. Never go into any electrical repair without a multimeter and appropriate safety gear and in this case be very careful since the capacitor is designed to hold charge after a voltage is applied (i.e. after you turn off your breaker). Allow 10 minutes for it to discharge to be safe.
My question is how you arrived at this in your troubleshooting? What quit working? When? Where? What climate are you in? What are the inside and outside conditions? Heat pumps are interesting beasts and in cooler climates on cold days do not function as they would normally in most days. Is your backup heating electric or gas? What manufacturer? What size (in MBH or tons) is the unit? What was the malfunction?
I don't post here often, but when it is in my area of expertise, I am interested.
caliness
Happy Member
posted: Mar. 12, 2010 @ 10:57p
My school's electrical engineering lab used to have free supplies of resistors, capacitors, and diodes. Maybe you can get lucky and find some in a local college.
danielz1g
New Member
posted: Mar. 13, 2010 @ 4:50a
Yes, I do this for a living.
I am not sure why they use two caps in in can, but from my experience, almost every newer condensing unit/heat pump has got this arrangement.
You are of course right, if only "one side" of the capacitor was bad, he could replace it with just that rated capacitor with a simple bit of rewiring. However, then he would have to find a way to mount it etc.
I dont know how the OP arrived at the capacitor being bad because by looking at those terminals I would imagine the contacts on the contactor arent in that great of shape. If he had the right equipment he could tell if the cap was the problem in 10 seconds.
I don't usually condone working on your own equipment when you don't know what you are doing but thought I would comment before he tried starting his Compressor AND fan with a 5MFD capacitor.
ok I finally replace it with grainger *THREE* terminal capacitor and the fan start working.. yes finally....
one thing though. the grainger capacitor was 60/7.5 and my original capacitor as 60/5. Gringer guy said its fine. Also gringer capacitor was 60/50 HZ and my original one was 50/60HZ
Disclaimer: By providing links to other sites, FatWallet.com does not guarantee, approve or endorse the information or products available at these sites, nor does a link indicate any association with or endorsement by the linked site to FatWallet.com.
Members of our community may attach files to a post in accordance with the User Agreement. FatWallet is not responsible for the content, accuracy, completeness or validity of any information contained in any attached file. Files have *not* been scanned for viruses. Be especially wary of Excel files which may contain malicious content.
