QuakerState full syn almost Free AR..

bmwpc said:   If your car is running excessively hot, you have a problem that needs to be addressed immediately and one that dino vs synthetic will not and is not intended to "fix" or delay the inevitable. You likely have a failing oil pump, plugged pick up or the pick up is not working properly and that has led to bearing problems which are the source of the heat. Heat is bad, more or continue heat will be castastrophic. Of course on a 2004 Sebring the cost vs benefit of a fix may mean a scrapper trip for the car.
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No, It` a 04 Sebring convertable,the car has been maintanied very well only 50,000 miles..Chrysler 2.6 V6`s around that year like to cook
the oil...Chrysler service department recommenied runing syn..

bmwpc said:   Oil may keep that long but engine specs and SAE specs change almost yearly although usually not enough to disqualify an oil from being approved for use. Of course if you buy it now for a car you have now, it will likely always be acceptable albeit maybe not the best available.

E4300 said:   One can keep oil for a decade or more. Stock up when they are free, unless you rely on bicycle for 100% of your commute. Thanks OP!

You obviously don't have an advanced degree in mechanical engineering. Look up "hydrodynamic lubrication". Newer oil may incorporate more shear-stable viscosity. If you replace any API rated oil (SE or newer) every 3000 miles, then there will be negligible wear difference between synthetic and dyno oils, even after 200K miles. The main advantages with synthetic are

1. Better flow when oil temperature is below freezing.
2. More shear-stable viscosity modifier.

Unless the engine is often pushed to 100% output or used in Antarctica climate, there will be little benefit with the use synthetic motor oil. We have a 27 yr old Toyota truck with 22R engine that run exclusively on API SE/SF oil. +287K on the odometer and compression is still 74% of maximum value. Oil consumption is about 1/3 qt every 5K miles.

The rebate said one per vehicle. But on the form there is no place to ask for vehicle info. How do they know how many vehicle I have? Does it mean multi-rebate submission for the same address and name? Anyone has experience?

Marlin1975 said:   corbon said:   This is a great deal for full synthetic. Does it matter if one was to switch between different synthetic brand oils, i.e. Mobil1, Castrol, Royal Purple or should I stick with one brand?


You can change brands everytime it will not matter, even can mix if you don't have all the same.

In an emergency, one can even use transmission fluid. It's just colored motor oil to let us know which component is leaking. I don't, of course, advise it under routine circumstances.

To clarify my earlier rant about excess attention to engine oil: I'm not saying to ignore your engine oil, just that you ought to follow the manufacturer's schedule and apply your excess worry to other maintenance items, especially transmission fluid.
in2dadark said:   In an emergency, one can even use transmission fluid. It's just colored motor oil to let us know which component is leaking. I don't, of course, advise it under routine circumstances.
Depends how you define "emergency". Different viscosity, different additive package, etc. It's not just colored motor oil, even if they come from similar or same base stock.

qqzj said:   May I ask where else is this oil sold? WalMart is too far away and there is no Menards around. Thanks.
Do you have an Advance Auto or Autozone nearby?

thc said:   To clarify my earlier rant about excess attention to engine oil: I'm not saying to ignore your engine oil, just that you ought to follow the manufacturer's schedule and apply your excess worry to other maintenance items, especially transmission fluid.
in2dadark said:   In an emergency, one can even use transmission fluid. It's just colored motor oil to let us know which component is leaking. I don't, of course, advise it under routine circumstances.
Depends how you define "emergency". Different viscosity, different additive package, etc. It's not just colored motor oil, even if they come from similar or same base stock.

Straight AFT is too "weak" for the stress and temperature seen at the top end of +10,000 rpm engines.

I recommend changing the transmission fluid every 3rd or 4th engine oil change.

Anybody have any luck with getting rebates from before when WalMart receipts were used? i.e. the receipt only says 5w20 5qt, no mention of quaker state of ultimate durability. i know we can always return it but just wondering if anybody had a positive experience

comment retracted.

E4300 said:   

Straight AFT is too "weak" for the stress and temperature seen at the top end of +10,000 rpm engines.

I recommend changing the transmission fluid every 3rd or 4th engine oil change.

IS that for automatic or manual or both?

thc said:   The old engine oil quality/interval debate never ends. IMO people put way too much effort/money into it and way too little effort/money into the rest of the maintenance that is much more important. Engine manufacturing and oil standards (dino or synthetic) are so awesomely improved that it's just not as big of a deal anymore, unless you have an engine that is known for oil-related failures (Toyota sludge, anyone?).

Who do you know whose engine suffered a failure that could have been prevented by more frequent oil changes or better quality oil (other than a Toyota sludge engine)? Oil-protected engine parts almost never fail before the car reaches the junkyard.

If you ask me, all this debate should go into automatic transmission fluid changes. Plenty of people have automatic transmissions fail prematurely, and I think plenty of people never change their ATF.

VirginiaDC said:   Two questions

If you have a car that tracks oil life and tells you when it's time to change the oil, do you still need to change it when it says or do you just reset it and remember to chenge the oil the next time it tells you to?

What about the filters? Should you still change the filter every 3000 miles?
Your owner's manual will tell you if/how to reset the Oil Life Monitor, and it will tell you when you when to change the filter. Generally you should change it every time you change your oil. If you fear that it might be clogged then touch it after a drive; if it's hot then it's not clogged. If it's not hot then it's probably being bypassed by the bypass valve.

For more details on your OLM you'll have to check with a forum for your car or a service manual. Here's what I know:

If it's a GM then the OLM needs to be reset when you change the oil. It counts engine revolutions, temperature, air/fuel ratio, and all the other data the computer has access to, and calculates oil life. Basically the only thing it can't account for is excessive blow-by in a worn-out engine. I've been obeying mine (or sometimes disobeying it) for 200,000 miles...seems to work well. Remember, GM has little to lose by telling you to change your oil too often, but they have a lot to lose if they get a reputation for short-lived engines.

If it's a Chrysler, I understand that they did (and probably still do) have an actual oil quality sensor.

It's a Honda. Supposedly it counts the revolutions and estimates remaining oil life. I know how to reset it. My questions were along the lines of if I change oil (dyno) and filter roughly every 3000 miles now, then I would ignore the oil life indicator since the car doesn't know I switched to synthetic and thus can go 12,000 miles betwen oil changes? And even though the synthestic oil life is longer, the filter is the same, so continue to change the filter every 3000 miles even though using synthetic now?

Thanks for the rebate.

If you search for the price some places are
charging as much as Royal Purple.

spicynosalad said:   Anybody have any luck with getting rebates from before when WalMart receipts were used? i.e. the receipt only says 5w20 5qt, no mention of quaker state of ultimate durability. i know we can always return it but just wondering if anybody had a positive experience

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I had same problem with the receipt before so I returned the oil back to WM. I just didn't want to take the risk. The receipt is too generic.

Direct link to print your rebates:

http://www.quakerstatewarranty.com/media/promo/

"It's just colored motor oil to let us know which component is leaking."

This is one of the most absurd statements I've heard on this forum yet. Try putting some motor oil in your automatic transmission and see how that works out for you.

ckpabc said:   "It's just colored motor oil to let us know which component is leaking."

This is one of the most absurd statements I've heard on this forum yet. Try putting some motor oil in your automatic transmission and see how that works out for you.

I'd agree with you there, usually at least one absurd thing said in each thread. There's like so many different types of transmission fluids too, Dextron, Mercon III/V, Type F, etc. and stories of how transmissions act up if you put in the wrong fluid.

Also anyone know if my case of Mobil 1 SG/SF motor oil is still good? I've gotten conflicting answers over the years. Probably bought it like 10-15 years ago and never got around to using it, the car it was meant for is long gone and newer cars specify higher oil grades. I figured one of these days I'll bump into someone who has an oil burner and they won't care what type of oil they put in. Or maybe it'll be a collector's item one day?

Anyway, just stopped by WalMart and they had one 5 quart jug left at $20.57. The receipt just has the 12 digit code. I guess we'll see what happens.

henry33 said:   ckpabc said:   "It's just colored motor oil to let us know which component is leaking."

This is one of the most absurd statements I've heard on this forum yet. Try putting some motor oil in your automatic transmission and see how that works out for you.

I'd agree with you there, usually at least one absurd thing said in each thread. There's like so many different types of transmission fluids too, Dextron, Mercon III/V, Type F, etc. and stories of how transmissions act up if you put in the wrong fluid.

Also anyone know if my case of Mobil 1 SG/SF motor oil is still good? I've gotten conflicting answers over the years. Probably bought it like 10-15 years ago and never got around to using it, the car it was meant for is long gone and newer cars specify higher oil grades. I figured one of these days I'll bump into someone who has an oil burner and they won't care what type of oil they put in. Or maybe it'll be a collector's item one day?

Anyway, just stopped by WalMart and they had one 5 quart jug left at $20.57. The receipt just has the 12 digit code. I guess we'll see what happens.

I wouldn't hesitate to use it.
Just got back from Wally and they had several jugs of 5/20, 5/30 and 10/30. Man I hate shopping there. I looked at Advanced,Autozone, Oreilly, Big Lots and Kmart. I could not find any 5 quart jugs anywhere but WalMart. I got weak again, like the G-Oil deal.

Zuke76 said:   Big Lots has QS full Syn for $4/qt.

I had no idea they even sold good quality oil

I will stop buy tomorrow and grab some.

Where's that 20% off coupon when you REALLY need it?!

VirginiaDC said:   bmwpc said:   Seriously, and not meant to be critical, but if you don't know the answer to this question perhaps you should not be changing your own oil. Unless you are driving a diesel truck or car or in a climate like the Saudi desert, a full synthetic should be good for 15K, a semi-sythentic for 10K and an SAE spec oil for 6k. Modern engines with superior build quality and unleaded fuel are the major reason for the extended duty cycles and the additional heat, speed and power of newer cars are why synthetic offer superior range and lubrication. That being said, the durability benefits of synthetics will likely not show up until after 80K miles. Also consider the environmental impact and independence of using less oil and fuel.

VirginiaDC said:   Two questions

If you have a car that tracks oil life and tells you when it's time to change the oil, do you still need to change it when it says or do you just reset it and remember to chenge the oil the next time it tells you to?

What about the filters? Should you still change the filter every 3000 miles?

Been working on my own cars for roughly 40 years now. Never used synthetic. Don't know much about it.

Synthetic oil basically suspends the contaminents so they dont stick to the inside of the engine.
I have a 2000 corvette that has a oil life remaining percentage sensor. I change it with between 5 and 10% oil life left. Its about 7000 miles between changes and I have been using either the high end ac delco or purolator filters. Someone on the corvette forum did this and sent their used oil to a lab to have it tested. The lab said that they could have gone another 1000 miles with 8% life left.

I feel good about changing it with 5-10% oil life left. The sensor is pretty accurate in my case. If you let it go any longer than this, the ph level changes and the acid will eat up your gaskets and then you will have leaks, which are very expensive to fix.

$20 for 5 quarts at big lots means $1.20 in taxes after rebate for 5 quarts here.

How many rebates can you do per address?

Richardito said:   You have a Sebring? Man, I feel sorry for you. That's a horribly designed car put together horribly and performs horribly.

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Na, it`s really my lady friend`s car, you know women love those Chrysler converts..

She has had it a little over 3 years, top end model with heated seats and all that..

All I have had to do is change the air filter and do oil changes..

We took it on a 1,000 mile road trip, thing is real good on gas..

My 2000 Honda Accord has been much more of a pain in the butt, with replacement cam timing belt and stuff like that.

And thats just normal up keep on that car..