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juan2manytacos said:   I've tried several 300n usb adapters and a couple pci cards and it seems this router wont connect to any of them at 300mbs the most I get is 144.4mbs. I've set up the router as N only is this normal? the router I replaced would always have a 300mb or 288mb connection on one adapter. Am I missing something. or is it some kind of hardware incompatibility.

Some of my adapters are atheros, others are ralink, and a few realteks. putting DD-WRT on this thing was a breeze by the way.


the MIMO architecture in wireless n allows for multiple transmit and receive streams at once...each stream is capable of 150Mbps (which is why you'll see n routers advertising 150, 300 or 450 depends on how many simultaneous streams they support)...your adapters also need to be 2T2R (or 3T3R) to get > 150Mbps

I could be wrong, but I also think that n will slow down to the slowest adapter, so if you have more than one adapter 00 then the whole wireless network slows down

other than that, i know ddwrt had problems in the past using multiple streams at once, I was never able to get >150 Mbps on my wndr3300 using build 14311 no matter what (2.4Ghz, 5.8Ghz, 40Hz channel width, laptop right next to router, etc) and there were plenty of bug reports - hopefully others here can reply back with the n300 and a fresh build...mine is still getting shipped

juan2manytacos said:   I've tried several 300n usb adapters and a couple pci cards and it seems this router wont connect to any of them at 300mbs the most I get is 144.4mbs. I've set up the router as N only is this normal? the router I replaced would always have a 300mb or 288mb connection on one adapter. Am I missing something. or is it some kind of hardware incompatibility.

Some of my adapters are atheros, others are ralink, and a few realteks. putting DD-WRT on this thing was a breeze by the way.


what security are you using. it makes a big difference. choose the WPA2 personal only not mixed and use the AES.
at first i had the WPA2 and TKIP and would only get 56mbps and after changing to AES i got 150mbps

My router showed up today. Couple of quick initial comments as I'm fighting with the stock Belkin firmware on this before I load DD-WRT and or Tomato to it. The Belkin site lists firmware 1.00.06 as the latest, yet when clicking the "Check Firmware" button it lists 1.00.08 from the Belkin site. Updated to the 1.00.08 firmware and started having all sorts of problems maintaining a wireless connection. Did a 30-30-30 reset, got the CFE web page and did an NVRAM reset and rebooted, then the router loaded up with the Belkin firmware and the wireless connections seemed to work and remain stable. Wireless N connection on my laptop only shows 72.0 Mbps as the connection speed for some reason, even when setting the router's wireless mode to Wireless N only. A quick test transferring a 250 MB folder from a USB flash drive connected to the router. To a wired computer (with gigabit speed), took less than 2 minutes. Via wireless N also took less than 2 minutes. Windows 7 on the Wireless N computer was showing a speed between 1.40 and 2.07 Mbps for the transfer speed from the USB flash drive. Had no problems with the router mounting a 30 GB external USB drive (that doesn't have it's own power supply) and the connected computers seeing and accessing it.

Edit to add: Fixed the wireless n connection on the laptop stuck at 72 Mbps by changing the router's belkin firmware setting Wireless > Channel and SSID page Bandwidth from the default 20 Mhz to 20/40 Mhz.

thank you, just snap one up.

bennor said:   Fixed the wireless n connection on the laptop stuck at 72 Mbps by changing the router's belkin firmware setting Wireless > Channel and SSID page Bandwidth from the default 20 Mhz to 20/40 Mhz.
FYI, increasing the bandwidth also decreases the range, so there is a tradeoff.

Once you have both files, log into the Belkin router at 192.168.2.1 and set the factory defaults. Once that is done do a 30/30/30 reset (Hold reset button for 30 seconds, unplug power with reset button still held in for 30 seconds and plug power back in while still holding the reset button for 30 more seconds.)

Once that is done, make double sure that your PC is plugged into one of the four LAN ports on the back of the Belkin router and you set your PC's static IP address to 192.168.2.8 with subnet 255.255.255.0

If you double checked and it's right refresh your browser at 192.168.2.1. You should now see a CFE Web Browser page that tells you to browse for a file.


Doing this to the letter, and after the 30/30/30 it can't connect to 192.168.2.1 at all. Have to unplug and plug in the router and it goes back to the Belkin admin page. Can't access the CFE Web Browser page no matter what. This isn't my first DD-WRT rodeo, and this method is fairly alien to me.

Few more observations after playing around with both the Belkin firmware, DD-WRT, and TomoatoUSB.

It is possible to revert back to the Belkin firmware. I was able to reload it after loading the TomatoUSB firmware. Simply go to the TomatoUSB firmware update page and load the BIN file for the Belkin firmware (if you have it saved locally) then hit the update button and wait 5 minutes or so. I assume, but haven't verified, that you could probably do it also from the DD-WRT firmware update page.

I found that I had to revert back to the CFE web page, by doing the 30-30-30 reset (the single router front light was off when I finished the 30-30-30 reset), and click the reset NVRAM link, then click the reboot link on several occasions. I usually had to do this if my wireless clients could no longer get a stable wireless connection after loading either DD-WRT mega, TomatoUSB or the Belkin firmware.

With the stock settings on the DD-WRT the wireless rate was stuck at 130 Mbps for my laptops wireless n connection. If I remember right when I set the bandwidth to 20, it was at 40 in DD-WRT, the wireless rate went up to 144 Mbps.

When loading the TomatoUSB firmware I initially had trouble logging in to it after flashing it. Turns out the username: root, password: admin worked to gain access to the administration pages.

Cocheseuga said:   Once you have both files, log into the Belkin router at 192.168.2.1 and set the factory defaults. Once that is done do a 30/30/30 reset (Hold reset button for 30 seconds, unplug power with reset button still held in for 30 seconds and plug power back in while still holding the reset button for 30 more seconds.)

Once that is done, make double sure that your PC is plugged into one of the four LAN ports on the back of the Belkin router and you set your PC's static IP address to 192.168.2.8 with subnet 255.255.255.0

If you double checked and it's right refresh your browser at 192.168.2.1. You should now see a CFE Web Browser page that tells you to browse for a file.


Doing this to the letter, and after the 30/30/30 it can't connect to 192.168.2.1 at all. Have to unplug and plug in the router and it goes back to the Belkin admin page. Can't access the CFE Web Browser page no matter what. This isn't my first DD-WRT rodeo, and this method is fairly alien to me.


Make sure your doing the 30/30/30 correctly and also make sure if your on a laptop, to disable your wireless radio! I forgot to add that info.. I got better results also using Chrome vs. Internet Explorer FWIW..

Thanks for the help. and yes I'm using WPA2 AES since I'm told thats the most secure. all of my adapters are 2T2R except for a tiny golden n wich is 2T1R i think its only 150n but i haven't even got that out of my junk pile out to try it. Im running DD-WRT in N only mode for a small added amuont of security (non N adapter can't connect)

I think the issue is as the previous post mentioned on MIMO having it be 150mbs. and I have the router setup as a repeater bridge connecting to my other 300n router.

Thanks for an outstanding deal. Running DD-WRT Build 18946

Got my 2nd router in today and the first thing I did was start flashing it.. Mini went on with no problems but Tomato screwed me pretty good with the username and password combination being different than default and what I set up mini with.. After an hour or two, I was able to reset the defaults to Tomato and I had access.. Don't remember the exact steps, but it was somewhere along the lines of this:


Disconnect the router from UTP cables (not the power cable).
Push reset button for 30 secs.
Without releasing reset button, disconnect power cord.
Hold the reset button for another 30 secs.
Replug the power cord.
Still hold the reset button for another 30 secs.
Release the reset button and give the router about 10 secs to resettle.
Disconnect power cord for another 10 secs and then reconnect.
All should be in default settings now.

Should I buy one too?

My d-link di-624 is still working...

Thanks.

hpmaster said:   Should I buy one too?

My d-link di-624 is still working...

Thanks.


For $22, why not?

juan2manytacos said:   I've tried several 300n usb adapters and a couple pci cards and it seems this router wont connect to any of them at 300mbs the most I get is 144.4mbs. I've set up the router as N only is this normal? the router I replaced would always have a 300mb or 288mb connection on one adapter. Am I missing something. or is it some kind of hardware incompatibility.

Some of my adapters are atheros, others are ralink, and a few realteks. putting DD-WRT on this thing was a breeze by the way.


If your adapter is capable of 300 make sure you go into your adapter properties and change the n speed's channel width from 20 to either 40 or automatic. Leaving it at 20 limits the connection and this is often the default setting.

Hypnosis4u2nv said:   Cocheseuga said:   Once you have both files, log into the Belkin router at 192.168.2.1 and set the factory defaults. Once that is done do a 30/30/30 reset (Hold reset button for 30 seconds, unplug power with reset button still held in for 30 seconds and plug power back in while still holding the reset button for 30 more seconds.)

Once that is done, make double sure that your PC is plugged into one of the four LAN ports on the back of the Belkin router and you set your PC's static IP address to 192.168.2.8 with subnet 255.255.255.0

If you double checked and it's right refresh your browser at 192.168.2.1. You should now see a CFE Web Browser page that tells you to browse for a file.


Doing this to the letter, and after the 30/30/30 it can't connect to 192.168.2.1 at all. Have to unplug and plug in the router and it goes back to the Belkin admin page. Can't access the CFE Web Browser page no matter what. This isn't my first DD-WRT rodeo, and this method is fairly alien to me.


Make sure your doing the 30/30/30 correctly and also make sure if your on a laptop, to disable your wireless radio! I forgot to add that info.. I got better results also using Chrome vs. Internet Explorer FWIW..


Desktop, Chrome. No dice thus far.

Edit - switched to IE and I'm up and rolling. Just need to troubleshoot some connection issues.

Got mine today and looking forward to playing with Tomato when the kids go to bed.

Is there a fatwallet badge for longest-running active thread?

crowe1130 said:   Got mine today and looking forward to playing with Tomato when the kids go to bed.

Is there a fatwallet badge for longest-running active thread?


Should be!

Cocheseuga said:   Desktop, Chrome. No dice thus far.

Try these steps from Sabre103:

Keep the reset button pressed in for the next three steps:
3) While the unit is powered on Press the reset button for 30 secs
4) Keeping the reset button pressed, unplug the power (do not let up on the reset button)
5) Plug the power back in and wait for another 30 secs
6) You can now let up on the reset button

Once the router is in this mode you will have access to a special "CFE menu".

7) Plug your desktop/laptop into port 1,2,3, or 4 and set your IP Address to 192.168.2.8 with a gateway of 192.168.2.1
8) Point your IE browser (Do not use Firefox) to 192.168.2.1 and CFE menu will be available.
9) Load the bin file you downloaded in step 1

EDIT: Saw you got it up and running.. Congrats!

Hypnosis4u2nv said:   Got my 2nd router in today and the first thing I did was start flashing it.. Mini went on with no problems but Tomato screwed me pretty good with the username and password combination being different than default and what I set up mini with..
When Tomato gave you the login problems did you try using:
Username: root
Password: admin

Tomato doesn't pull the correct password from DD-WRT due to the way DD-WRT handles the "http_passwd" variable. More info on this issue at following link: http://www.polarcloud.com/tomatofaq#why_doesnt_my_password_work

On a side note, for some strange reason when I plugged in a USB flash drive using the tomato-K26USB-1.28.7497.1MIPSR2-Toastman-RT-Ext firmware on the router, the green light for the unused USB port lit up while the in use USB port light did not. With DD-WRT and the Belkin firmware the green light for the in use USB port the USB flash drive was plugged into lit up. Strange.

I didn't clear my password in DD-WRT mini, instead I set it at admin/admin and I couldn't log on once Tomato flashed.. I was able to finally reset Tomato to use the default username and password to get in..

for some reason, I can not change the SSID name on the router, which I flashed to latest mega. Although I changed it to XYZ through 192.168.1.1 on the router, my notebook or desktop still only see the original name of the SSID.

And my notebook connect to the router like there was security at all, although on the router I enabled the setting (WPA2-personal)

Got Tomato working.
Printer working wired and wireless from routers USB port.

more reports on my testing. i was having problem with ddwrt build 18946 but was fine with 15396. mostly the issue is trying to connect to the router with smartphone and android tablet. i also tried to reset back to belkin stock firmware and start with mini build 18946 then mega 18946. no go. one problem however with build 15396 is that i cannot find the gui to activate the usb. what i did then is to try a few of the builds between 18946 and 15396 which will have this option and work with my smartphone. after a few flashing i ended up with build 16994. anything above has an issue with my smartphone and/or tablet. thanks everyone.

domeng said:   after a few flashing i ended up with build 16994. anything above has an issue with my smartphone and/or tablet. thanks everyone.
Would you mind sharing a link? It can get confusing looking for the right build, so knowing exactly what someone else has already validated provides a little extra peace of mind.

Toddler said:   domeng said:   after a few flashing i ended up with build 16994. anything above has an issue with my smartphone and/or tablet. thanks everyone.
Would you mind sharing a link? It can get confusing looking for the right build, so knowing exactly what someone else has already validated provides a little extra peace of mind.

This is the bad boy you want:
dd-wrt.v24-16994_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega.bin

got the router the day before yesterday and had time to do flash yesterday, following the exact steps described in Sabre103's post and using the exact files. The router is up running with Tomato without any problem.

One thing I see is that the light on the router is solid amber when connected to the internet (according to Belkin manual it should be solid green, but this does not matter even it is not working as intended). Will do more test today or weekend (mainly network printer) and double check the light.

I do not have the wired problem described by kyungjpark's post item 2 here: http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/expired-deals/1180400/m16828051/...
I can simply unplug the power from the router and re-plug when doing 30/30/30 reset.

Thanks OP and Toastman for the deal and excellent firmware.

EDIT: it seems the light is back to normal: solid green when connected to internet, after I turn on the router again.
Checked the USB lights, only the one on the right is lighted when both USB are plugged in. Minor issue.

I just ordered one of these. I have a 3 1/2 year-old DLink DIR-625 that has been pretty reliable until recently. I get drop-outs. My son gets kicked off of XBOX Live every 15 minutes or so. My internet radio cuts out. I can't find any interference, so I bought one of these to possibly replace it and so that I can plug in my printer and have it accessible from laptops and other devices in the house.

Here is my question and I'm hoping one of you networking gurus can answer this: Can I use both routers? If so, what would be the best way to use them and how can I find information about configuring them? My house is a split level and the maximum distance that I need to cover is about 100 square feet. Thanks.

I also have the same experience with the USB LED. Only the right hand one lights up regardless of which USB port I use. It is a cosmetic issue for me.

I was using a Linksys nslu2 to share my hard drive on the network. The Belkin with Toastman USB firmware appears (so far) to be a more stable arrangement.

Hypnosis4u2nv thank you so much!

TRex23 said:   I just ordered one of these. I have a 3 1/2 year-old DLink DIR-625 that has been pretty reliable until recently. I get drop-outs. My son gets kicked off of XBOX Live every 15 minutes or so. My internet radio cuts out. I can't find any interference, so I bought one of these to possibly replace it and so that I can plug in my printer and have it accessible from laptops and other devices in the house.

Here is my question and I'm hoping one of you networking gurus can answer this: Can I use both routers? If so, what would be the best way to use them and how can I find information about configuring them? My house is a split level and the maximum distance that I need to cover is about 100 square feet. Thanks.


Assuming you have either a long Cat5e/6 cable or house wiring to physically connect the two routers together, you have to determine if you want all of your devices to be on the same network. If you do, you will want to plug the gateway router's WAN port into your modem, and then connect the second router to a LAN port on the gateway router. Ideally, you should have DHCP turned ON on the gateway router and OFF on the second router. Of course, this is all subject to your specific layout and expectations.

If you are not physically connecting the routers together, start your research here to determine how you would like your network configured.

EDIT: If you are only convering 100 sq feet, I think one router should suffice. That's about the size of a smallish bedroom.

tangoalpha said:   TRex23 said:   I just ordered one of these. I have a 3 1/2 year-old DLink DIR-625 that has been pretty reliable until recently. I get drop-outs. My son gets kicked off of XBOX Live every 15 minutes or so. My internet radio cuts out. I can't find any interference, so I bought one of these to possibly replace it and so that I can plug in my printer and have it accessible from laptops and other devices in the house.

Here is my question and I'm hoping one of you networking gurus can answer this: Can I use both routers? If so, what would be the best way to use them and how can I find information about configuring them? My house is a split level and the maximum distance that I need to cover is about 100 square feet. Thanks.


Assuming you have either a long Cat5e/6 cable or house wiring to physically connect the two routers together, you have to determine if you want all of your devices to be on the same network. If you do, you will want to plug the gateway router's WAN port into your modem, and then connect the second router to a LAN port on the gateway router. Ideally, you should have DHCP turned ON on the gateway router and OFF on the second router. Of course, this is all subject to your specific layout and expectations.

If you are not physically connecting the routers together, start your research here to determine how you would like your network configured.


Thank you so much. I don't think I would physically connect both routers, but I might. If I did, I could have one of them right under the far room of the house that is farthest from the gateway router. I'm sure that would help the signal.

zcm923c0 said:   Why does the member summary still say "F7D3301 ONLY!" when the model is F7D7301? You're just confusing people with bad information.

you should have check this link in OP:
http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/expired-deals/1180400/
This is model F7D7301 but is actually a rebadged F7D3301.

zcm923c0 said:   Why does the member summary still say "F7D3301 ONLY!" when the model is F7D7301? You're just confusing people with bad information.

Peel the sticker off and you'll find out.

Thanks for a great deal! Flashed to build 18246 and so far it seems great. Haven't done any speed tests, but all the features of DD-WRT beat the pants of my $100+ Asus N56U which I regret buying. So much I like this router with DD-WRT that I want to buy another one, even though I don't need it.

zcm923c0 said:   Why does the member summary still say "F7D3301 ONLY!" when the model is F7D7301? You're just confusing people with bad information.

36,600 views, 460 Replies, 148 Green Feedbacks and countless flashes later, no one mentioned anything about it being bad information..

So to avoid further confusion, I edited the Member Summary to reflect the current model also..

zcm923c0 said:   juan2manytacos said:   Thanks for the help. and yes I'm using WPA2 AES since I'm told thats the most secure.

WPA2-AES and WPA-AES are virtually identical. WPA-TKIP is the one you'd want to avoid, though even that would be secure enough for 99.9% of people.


WPA2 and WPA are *NOT* identical. WPA has already been cracked (http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2352231,00.asp), whereas WPA2 is pretty much the golden standard.

Here's a good article that clarifies the differences between AES and TKIP as well:

http://www.speedguide.net/faq_in_q.php?qid=331

Anything with TKIP (even if it says WPA2) is WPA. So WPA2 with TKIP support means it's backwards compatible and will accept WPA connections; something you don't want to do if you're security-paranoid. My friends and family think I'm crazy for setting my router up with WPA2-AES and a strong password, asking me who I think is going to hack into my network... while they may have a point, I also don't want to make an example of myself the other way.

WPA2-AES all the way.

TRex23 said:   tangoalpha said:   TRex23 said:   I just ordered one of these. I have a 3 1/2 year-old DLink DIR-625 that has been pretty reliable until recently. I get drop-outs. My son gets kicked off of XBOX Live every 15 minutes or so. My internet radio cuts out. I can't find any interference, so I bought one of these to possibly replace it and so that I can plug in my printer and have it accessible from laptops and other devices in the house.

Here is my question and I'm hoping one of you networking gurus can answer this: Can I use both routers? If so, what would be the best way to use them and how can I find information about configuring them? My house is a split level and the maximum distance that I need to cover is about 100 square feet. Thanks.


Assuming you have either a long Cat5e/6 cable or house wiring to physically connect the two routers together, you have to determine if you want all of your devices to be on the same network. If you do, you will want to plug the gateway router's WAN port into your modem, and then connect the second router to a LAN port on the gateway router. Ideally, you should have DHCP turned ON on the gateway router and OFF on the second router. Of course, this is all subject to your specific layout and expectations.

If you are not physically connecting the routers together, start your research here to determine how you would like your network configured.


Thank you so much. I don't think I would physically connect both routers, but I might. If I did, I could have one of them right under the far room of the house that is farthest from the gateway router. I'm sure that would help the signal.


Considering your current router is on the fritz, I would buy a second Belkin and get rid of the DIR-625 altogether but only after some testing on both the Belkin and DIR-625.. Test the Belkin by making it an access point first and have your devices connect to it versus the DIR-625.. I would also change the channel on the DIR-625 to something other than 1, 3 or 6 which seem to be pretty common channel frequencies and if your area has other routers or devices using the same frequencies of your routers channel, then you would also experience connection problems..

If you decide to keep the DIR-625 as your primary router, make sure you set the router IP of the Belkin to 192.168.0.x but NOT 192.168.0.1..

zcm923c0 said:   domeng said:   more reports on my testing. i was having problem with ddwrt build 18946 but was fine with 15396. mostly the issue is trying to connect to the router with smartphone and android tablet.

What exactly was the problem? We have no issues with 18946, two Android phones, and one tablet.


Concur, two android phones and no connection issues via Wifi..

you have to use the router as a Repeater or Repeater Bridge and try to connect to the virtual interface before you will notice this problem. i could not connect my n900 with maemo to the router. my 2 touchpads with android 4 have difficulty starting a connection, sometimes it takes at least 3 attempts to connect. my android 2.3 phone also is having the same issue as the touchpads.

Hypnosis4u2nv said:   zcm923c0 said:   domeng said:   more reports on my testing. i was having problem with ddwrt build 18946 but was fine with 15396. mostly the issue is trying to connect to the router with smartphone and android tablet.

What exactly was the problem? We have no issues with 18946, two Android phones, and one tablet.


Concur, two android phones and no connection issues via Wifi..

Hypnosis4u2nv said:   I didn't clear my password in DD-WRT mini, instead I set it at admin/admin and I couldn't log on once Tomato flashed.. I was able to finally reset Tomato to use the default username and password to get in..
If anybody is using the Toastman Tomato firmware. This is the one posted on the very first page.
This is what you need to know.

after fresh install
login: admin password: admin

DCHP is NOT ENABLED. So, you have to setup static ip and gateway before you access router.

IP should be 192.168.1.x (x any number between 2-10)
Gateway should be 192.168.1.1

You can then access it from browser @ http://192.168.1.1 Once you login you can enable DCHP under Basic=>Network=>LAN.

You should than set your IP setting back to DCHP if you enable it on the router.

*** Updated first post to reflect this info ***



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