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I just bricked mine. can anyone help me. i had the mini installed then did the upgrade to mega then. the router said successful, but will not give out address any more. no lights on the router at all it shows connected @ 100 but will not give out addresses. i also tried hard coding the 192.168.1.8 on my pc with gateway 192.168.1.1 no luck. please help.

GilbertsGrape said:   i also tried hard coding the 192.168.1.8 on my pc with gateway 192.168.1.1 no luck. please help.

192.168.2.1

If you don't have that much skill, you can get power supplies for CCTV systems with multiple DC outlets (but it would be much cheaper to DIY). I think there's also an Instructable up that shows how to mod an ATX power supply.

In addition, you can power accessories from your PC's power supply using outlet cards like this "W-DC1000" card. It hooks up to the drive power supply cables, sits in an expansion slot. A switching regulator on-board gives selectable voltage output. I picked up in Taiwan many years ago. I used it to power my flatbed scanner that way -- unfortunately, the card got damaged in an accident and I haven't been able to find a replacement from any US source since:
http://www.dotster.com/dotster/sites/fortune-city.bml

very bad review everywhere. be cautious.

power supply is putting out 14.25v and the sticker says it should only be 12v do you think that is an issue. no lights will work on this router. no wireless or wired Ethernet. when plunged in twisted pair it shows link but no address. this happned upgrading from the mini ddwrt to the mega. do you think Belkin would take it back where it is new and will not let you connect at all?

umenon said:   GilbertsGrape said:   i also tried hard coding the 192.168.1.8 on my pc with gateway 192.168.1.1 no luck. please help.

192.168.2.1
He put DD-WRT on. Since mini "took", the router is now @ 192.168.1.1. It was his upgrade to mega which apparently bricked it.

GlibertsGrape, see here:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Recover_from_a_Bad_Flash

NARC said:   jplee3 said:   I hate power cords so I combine them. An external full size HD usually has a 12V, 4A power source, which I split up to power the router, cable modem, and NAS drive. You need about $5 worth of plugs from an electronics shop to match the ports on the back of the respective units.
All the wall warts in my electronics cabinet (read: under the stairs closet) kind of piss me off too, but I've never thought about doing that. Any chance you know of a DIY article, or could you give some more information about your setup? That's a really great idea.


As long as you have all the units that are going to be connected to a single wal-wart has the same voltage requirements the setup is very simple. If one of them requires 5V, other 12V etc, the solution is not economical compared to multiple Wal-warts.

If all have the same voltage requirements, make sure that the sum of all the current (amps) that each unit needs is slightly less than the output of the single wal-wart. When you strip the output plug of the wal-wart to connect the (purchased) individual plugs, make sure they match in polarity for each of the units.

GilbertsGrape said:   power supply is putting out 14.25v and the sticker says it should only be 12v do you think that is an issue. no lights will work on this router. no wireless or wired Ethernet. when plunged in twisted pair it shows link but no address. this happned upgrading from the mini ddwrt to the mega. do you think Belkin would take it back where it is new and will not let you connect at all?
That must be how they designed it, since that's what mine measures too.

It sounds like you bricked it. Follow the procedure posted earlier.

Great deal in for 2 thx op.

umenon said:   I got mine two days ago and flashed with DD-WRT. It worked as a regular AP but did not work as a Repeater Bridge (using Wifi Analyzer on my Samsung Captivate I saw the signal cycle between -60dB to no-signal every few seconds). As an AP it worked fine. I initially connected a 2.5inch USB drive (7200rpm) formatted to NTFS. With the client WIRED to the router the rate was 3MB/s. After reformatting it to ext3 ... the transfer went up to 7-8MB/s. Not impressive at all but enough to stream 1080 video stream.

Strangely, I noticed that all my N-capable wireless devices show greater SPEEDTEST.NET results when the router is in G-mode. When router is set to N-mode the speed drops 30 to 40% !! However, wireless client to USB-dongle drive is faster in N-mode. Strange paradox.

I will try Tomato this weekend.


Thanks for that feedback.. My suspicions were correct that the NTFS would be slower than EXT3 because Linux doesn't play well with NTFS due to resource hogging..

Green for OP. In-4-1

how well does it go threw the walls? distance? I want to put it upstairs on the other side of the house but not sure if it will travel as good as my Linksys with duel antennas..

anndesikis said:   how well does it go threw the walls? distance? I want to put it upstairs on the other side of the house but not sure if it will travel as good as my Linksys with duel antennas..

May depend on how hard you "threw" it. "Dueling" routers may not be the best solution. That aside, would also be interested in comments of the range of various routers and those people have found to be best in construction that may not be ideal for signal transmission.

anndesikis said:   how well does it go threw the walls? distance? I want to put it upstairs on the other side of the house but not sure if it will travel as good as my Linksys with duel antennas..

Most routers with external antennas historically perform better than those with internal ones. Also, factors such as router placement in your home, obstructions and other frequencies can affect the routers performance. Thankfully with DD-WRT or Tomato, you can increase the transmitting power of the device to help with the signal although that should be done cautiously and at your own risk because you can burn out the router if the transmittal power gets too high for it to handle..

Hypnosis4u2nv said:   peas said:   What's the sustained transfer rates for its the USB filesharing? Its hardware is comparable to low-end NAS units so I suspect it may barely get more than 100 Mbps throughput even on GbE.

I searched Belkin's site and around the web and can't tell if this model has a 5GHz antenna. Since there's no explicit mention of it, chances are it's 2.4GHz only.


It's not dual band so 5Ghz is out of the question. And 5Ghz historically has issues with long range transmissions from a number of different routers that have it as an option because the 5GHz signal just doesn't travel very far as it's being absorbed by obstructions. My DIR-825 has horrible range on 5Ghz so I don't even use it because I barely see it available at times..

Curiously, I would like to know how SAMBA would work on the DD-WRT interface with an EXT3 formatted drive.. Using NTFS formatted drives on my hacked Pogoplug gave me horrible transfer rates on GigE (4-7 MBs), but when I switched to EXT3 formatted drives I got faster speeds (25-28 MBs).. And your speeds are also dependant on your USB speed also, so FULL GigE is out the question if your on USB2.0..
The Netgear WNDR 3300 has very good 5ghz range. Mine running dd-wrt reaches the far end of the house with 3/5 bars. 2.4g does get a stronger signal, but 5g is strong enough and with less interference performs better overall. Only drawback with it is no GbE or usb.

peas said:    The Netgear WNR 3300 has very good 5ghz range. Mine running dd-wrt reaches the far end of the house with 3/5 bars. 2.4g does get a stronger signal, but 5g is strong enough and with less interference performs better overall. Only drawback with it is no GbE or usb.

I can't get mine to go from one closed room across the hall to another closed room without the signal fading in and out. Then again, I also don't have DD-WRT on it (not compatible)so who knows if the firmware helps with the transmitting power..

First thing I did after flashing DD-WRT was test the WiFi range. I have it in my wiring closet, downstairs, 1/3 of the way across the house. Signal drops to 3/5 bars upstairs at the farthest end of the house. No dropouts or interference. This replaced a Linksys WRT54GS (dual external antennas) running DD-WRT, and signal strenth was similar.

Thanks everyone. I've been wanting to get into flashing routers but was afraid I would brick one. Willing to take the chance for ~$20.

i reflashed it to the latest ddwrt version i can fimd. it contains wpa2-aes security. ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/

domeng said:   i reflashed it to the latest ddwrt version i can fimd. it contains wpa2-aes security. ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/
The recommended firmware, which seems to be SP2 (and specifically for this router):

DD-WRT v24-sp2 (10/07/10) mega
(SVN revision 15396M NEWD-2 K2.6 Eko)
ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/V24-K26/svn15396/dd-wrt.v24-15396_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega.bin

Just wondering exactly which firmware you selected and why. If it is pre-SP2 as the link indicates, wouldn't that be a step backward?

i was looking for wpa2-aes security which was available from the latest build: dd-wrt.v24-18774_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega.bin dated 2012-03-19

domeng said:   i reflashed it to the latest ddwrt version i can fimd. it contains wpa2-aes security. ftp://dd-wrt.com/others/eko/BrainSlayer-V24-preSP2/

I would be very interested in knowing how it performs for you in the next few days..

rseiler said:   GilbertsGrape said:   power supply is putting out 14.25v and the sticker says it should only be 12v do you think that is an issue. no lights will work on this router. no wireless or wired Ethernet. when plunged in twisted pair it shows link but no address. this happned upgrading from the mini ddwrt to the mega. do you think Belkin would take it back where it is new and will not let you connect at all?
That must be how they designed it, since that's what mine measures too.

It sounds like you bricked it. Follow the procedure posted earlier.


All wallwarts are unstable without a load and show higher voltage than if you test them with a load.

I have had this router for over a year and has worked flawlessly! I've never had an issue with it! GREAT DEAL!

x305x said:   I have had this router for over a year and has worked flawlessly! I've never had an issue with it! GREAT DEAL!

Love to hear feedback like this. What firmware are you running on it?

Toddler said:   First thing I did after flashing DD-WRT was test the WiFi range. I have it in my wiring closet, downstairs, 1/3 of the way across the house. Signal drops to 3/5 bars upstairs at the farthest end of the house. No dropouts or interference. This replaced a Linksys WRT54GS (dual external antennas) running DD-WRT, and signal strenth was similar.

Toddler, can you run the same tests but instead check the signal meter in the routers DD-WRT menu and report back?

domeng said:   i was looking for wpa2-aes security which was available from the latest build: dd-wrt.v24-18774_NEWD-2_K2.6_mega.bin dated 2012-03-19
I have no idea why WPA2-AES wouldn't be available in any old build--it's been around for many years, but just in case anyone's wondering, the latest DD-WRT isn't necessarily the best build. In fact, it almost never is. The recommended build there, as shown in a sticky thread in the Broadcom forum, is still from mid-2010!

TheDiggler said:   umenon said:   GilbertsGrape said:   i also tried hard coding the 192.168.1.8 on my pc with gateway 192.168.1.1 no luck. please help.

192.168.2.1
He put DD-WRT on. Since mini "took", the router is now @ 192.168.1.1. It was his upgrade to mega which apparently bricked it.

GlibertsGrape, see here:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Recover_from_a_Bad_Flash


Thanks for the link i tried the 30/30/30 nothing and i get no lights what so ever. i think i am going to call Belkin and see if they will do a warranty replacement since the router will not even light up or come one. may live out the part on flashing the firmware......

Should I have installed the mega to start with instead of the mini then the mega. Is that what i did wrong? Or was this a fluke i bricked it?

I ordered another one to mess with should be here in a few days. i am really intrigued by thus open source firmware.

GilbertsGrape said:   

Thanks for the link i tried the 30/30/30 nothing and i get no lights what so ever.


You should get no lights on after doing 30/30/30 from what I remember..

Hypnosis4u2nv said:   GilbertsGrape said:   

Thanks for the link i tried the 30/30/30 nothing and i get no lights what so ever.


You should get no lights on after doing 30/30/30 from what I remember..

That's what I saw as well, no lights after 30/30/30. I would not give up so quickly.

after doing a 30/30/30 i could not ping either 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.1.1 or web to either address. even though the nic thought it was connected. no dhcp and tied hard coding both 192.168.2.8 or 192.168.2.8 with gateways of both 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.1.1

Hypnosis4u2nv said:   Toddler said:   First thing I did after flashing DD-WRT was test the WiFi range. I have it in my wiring closet, downstairs, 1/3 of the way across the house. Signal drops to 3/5 bars upstairs at the farthest end of the house. No dropouts or interference. This replaced a Linksys WRT54GS (dual external antennas) running DD-WRT, and signal strenth was similar.

Toddler, can you run the same tests but instead check the signal meter in the routers DD-WRT menu and report back?

My EVO 4G:

Signal -62
Noise -87
SNR 25
Signal Quality 39%

GilbertsGrape said:   after doing a 30/30/30 i could not ping either 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.1.1 or web to either address. even though the nic thought it was connected. no dhcp and tied hard coding both 192.168.2.8 or 192.168.2.8 with gateways of both 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.1.1
Have you reviewed this post? Seems like maybe the second section (towards the end) might be what you need:

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/expired-deals/1180400/m16827107/...

GilbertsGrape said:   after doing a 30/30/30 i could not ping either 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.1.1 or web to either address. even though the nic thought it was connected. no dhcp and tied hard coding both 192.168.2.8 or 192.168.2.8 with gateways of both 192.168.2.1 or 192.168.1.1

Did you set the subnet mask of 255.255.255.0? Did you also try hard ip'ing 192.168.1.8? Which directions did you use? I would also try the Tomato un-brick instructions posted in the expired thread, link is in the OP..

EDIT : Toddler beat me to it..

GilbertsGrape said:   TheDiggler said:   umenon said:   GilbertsGrape said:   i also tried hard coding the 192.168.1.8 on my pc with gateway 192.168.1.1 no luck. please help.

192.168.2.1
He put DD-WRT on. Since mini "took", the router is now @ 192.168.1.1. It was his upgrade to mega which apparently bricked it.

GlibertsGrape, see here:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Recover_from_a_Bad_Flash


Thanks for the link i tried the 30/30/30 nothing and i get no lights what so ever. i think i am going to call Belkin and see if they will do a warranty replacement since the router will not even light up or come one. may live out the part on flashing the firmware......

Should I have installed the mega to start with instead of the mini then the mega. Is that what i did wrong? Or was this a fluke i bricked it?
Installing mini FIRST was absolutely the correct way to proceed. As far as trying to unbrick w/ the DD-WRT procedures, it sounds like you haven't tried the TFTP procedure yet:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Recover_from_a_Bad_Flash#Re...

Since you previously wrote that your PC's ethernet port does get a "link", you should manually set your PC's "Local Area Connection" IP Address to 192.168.1.108, sub-net 255.255.255.0, gateway 192.168.1.1, then follow the TFTP procedure from there. You may want to perform the last part of the 30/30/30 (i.e. w/ the router powered off, hold the reset button in, power it on, and wait up to 30 seconds). The TFTP instructions are initially listed for Linux, but Windows instructions follow after that.

Note: The Windows "tftp.exe" program is not enabled by default under Windows Vista and Windows 7. To enable it, go to Control Panel --> Programs and Features, then click on "Turn Window features on or off" (left hand-side menu). Once you enable "TFTP Client" (you should also enable "Telnet Client" while you're at it), wihen opening a Windows command prompt, the "tftp" command should exist/work.

Another Note: The "arp -s" command that the procedure wants you to invoke will likely require an elevated command prompt. That means when you open your command prompt (Start --> All Programs --> Accessories --> Command Prompt), RIGHT CLICK ON IT and choose "Run as administrator."

Final Note: When attempting to TFTP a firmware file to your router, send it the "mini" firmware! If you manage to unbrick it from the "mini" firmware, try re-loading mega (choosing to RESET SETTINGS when loading in mega). If it bricks again, repeat the unbrick procedure to get "mini" working again.

*EDIT* Before you power on the router (using the 30/30/30), suggest you open a separate Command Prompt (doesn't need to be elevated) running "ping -t 192.168.1.1". Keep that separate Command Prompt open the entire time. If/when the router starts responding to "ping", you'll know its alive. (It may not respond until after you get to the "arp -s" command).

you are right wpa2-aes is available - i must have overlooked it the first time - in the older version of ddwrt firmware. the latest build appears stable enough for me. i will test both versions for issues. thenks.

Superb! Just order one from the link.

TheDiggler said:   GilbertsGrape said:   TheDiggler said:   umenon said:   GilbertsGrape said:   i also tried hard coding the 192.168.1.8 on my pc with gateway 192.168.1.1 no luck. please help.

192.168.2.1
He put DD-WRT on. Since mini "took", the router is now @ 192.168.1.1. It was his upgrade to mega which apparently bricked it.

GlibertsGrape, see here:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Recover_from_a_Bad_Flash


Thanks for the link i tried the 30/30/30 nothing and i get no lights what so ever. i think i am going to call Belkin and see if they will do a warranty replacement since the router will not even light up or come one. may live out the part on flashing the firmware......

Should I have installed the mega to start with instead of the mini then the mega. Is that what i did wrong? Or was this a fluke i bricked it?
Installing mini FIRST was absolutely the correct way to proceed. As far as trying to unbrick w/ the DD-WRT procedures, it sounds like you haven't tried the TFTP procedure yet:
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Recover_from_a_Bad_Flash#Re...




Since you previously wrote that your PC's ethernet port does get a "link", you should manually set your PC's "Local Area Connection" IP Address to 192.168.1.108, sub-net 255.255.255.0, gateway 192.168.1.1, then follow the TFTP procedure from there. You may want to perform the last part of the 30/30/30 (i.e. w/ the router powered off, hold the reset button in, power it on, and wait up to 30 seconds). The TFTP instructions are initially listed for Linux, but Windows instructions follow after that.

Note: The Windows "tftp.exe" program is not enabled by default under Windows Vista and Windows 7. To enable it, go to Control Panel --> Programs and Features, then click on "Turn Window features on or off" (left hand-side menu). Once you enable "TFTP Client" (you should also enable "Telnet Client" while you're at it), wihen opening a Windows command prompt, the "tftp" command should exist/work.

Another Note: The "arp -s" command that the procedure wants you to invoke will likely require an elevated command prompt. That means when you open your command prompt (Start --> All Programs --> Accessories --> Command Prompt), RIGHT CLICK ON IT and choose "Run as administrator."

Final Note: When attempting to TFTP a firmware file to your router, send it the "mini" firmware! If you manage to unbrick it from the "mini" firmware, try re-loading mega (choosing to RESET SETTINGS when loading in mega). If it bricks again, repeat the unbrick procedure to get "mini" working again.

*EDIT* Before you power on the router (using the 30/30/30), suggest you open a separate Command Prompt (doesn't need to be elevated) running "ping -t 192.168.1.1". Keep that separate Command Prompt open the entire time. If/when the router starts responding to "ping", you'll know its alive. (It may not respond until after ywill try this tonight. I did not try tftp because I was unable to ping the router, but maybe I was not doing it right. Thanks to all that responded. I will let you know how it goes. Cross your fingers for me.ou get to the "arp -s" command).


I will try this tonight. I did not try tftp because I was unable to ping the router, but maybe I was not doing it right. Thanks to all that responded. I will let you know how it goes. Cross your fingers for me.

what firmware would u recommend for using this as a wireless n router, wireless print server, and gigabit switcher for an WD live hard drive?

Put DD-WRT on it..

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