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Briphite said:   just saying...

the range on this thing sucks. it improves greatly when you do N only, but that is kind of useless considering nearly everyone has at least one non-N device. when on N only, this thing is great. but once you enabled MIXED mode, good luck getting any range out of it. or any speed for that matter.


As many have said, you want to have two of them. One for N and one for G.

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rsuaver said:   Briphite said:   just saying...

the range on this thing sucks. it improves greatly when you do N only, but that is kind of useless considering nearly everyone has at least one non-N device. when on N only, this thing is great. but once you enabled MIXED mode, good luck getting any range out of it. or any speed for that matter.


As many have said, you want to have two of them. One for N and one for G.


I don't know how people can deal with two of these for that purpose. I just picture two sets of AC adapter cords and Cat5 cables running everywhere all mashed up behind my TV stand with little flashing lights flickering off the wall when the lights are off.

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gtdad said:   I tried using Windows backup, but it only shows my dvd drive as a backup option.
Can I use Windows backup or do I need to use a backup program from the hard drive manufacturer?

The Home version of Windows 7 does not allow you to back up to a network drive, so you need to use another backup program. Since this router-as-NAS is slow in terms of file transfer speed, you may want to consider a program that can do incremental or differential backup.

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TightOnDollar said:   I'm able to filetransfer but it is v e r y s l o w. Any suggestions on improving the speed within the network file transfers.
You should first do some tests to determine where the bottleneck is, USB or wireless. See my earlier post for a quick reference.

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buytech said:   If someone can please advice - will this be a good choice for a student to use in a dorm room? The room has Ethernet outlet to which she connects her notebook through RJ-45 cable and her Uni allows the use of Wi-Fi routers in rooms. She doesn’t need too much speed or range but would favor investing in something that can be future-proof if possible. She would prefer to use it out of the box with minimal settings and would not like to venture into upgrading to DD-WRT/TOMATO, if unnecessary. Any other suggestions/advice would be welcome. Thanks in advance!
In addition to what bennor said, note that in a crowded environment like a school dormitory, the 2.4GHz band may be inadequate.

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kamiller42 said:   Here is my unorthodox adventure in getting Tomato to flash. I figure this story may be of use to some users, especially Linux users.

I am using Ubuntu 12.04 on a notebook and desktop. I first tried to access CFE from the notebook. I disconnected but did not disable wireless. (Re-enabling wireless is a pain.) I was never able to access the CFE, so I moved to the desktop.

On the desktop, I could access CFE with Firefox, but dd-wrt would not upload. Firefox sat waiting for response. So, I installed Chrome. Chrome could not access the CFE menu at all. I went back to Firefox, and it started displaying the "connection reset" error many people having been seeing. Not sure what Chrome did to change results in Firefox.

The situation now was no progress using two machines using the two major browsers. But, people reported success with IE, so I figured I could get this done in a VMware virtual machine running Windows XP. With slight modifications to the original instructions, it worked. The mod is giving the host OS a static IP 192.168.2.2 and the guest the 192.168.2.8 address. The vm network adapter is setup as bridged, not NAT.

This project shows you can even flash these routers with a machine inside a machine.

You could have loaded a proper firmware from the Belkin firmware without going through CFE, and probably with Firefox. And it's even possible to do the flashing just one time. And with Shibby's TomatoUSB, it may even be possible without manually changing your IP at all. But of course, you wouldn't have learned as much.

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lernim said:   Well here is an interesting problem or bug. Config for setting up Guest is a bit different in Shibby's Big Tomato vs. Toastmans, but managed to finally get the guest part going. The problem is can't seem to connect or hold a connection when using encryption when trying to connect to the guest SSID...connects fine without any encryption/password requirement.
I wasn't gonna do a guest setup on this router, but since you have a problem, I tried it out (I'm on Shibby's right now).
Quick steps:
1) Under Basic, Network, add a bridge (br1).
2) Under Advanced, VLAN, add a VLAN. I don't plan to let a guest use physical ports, so I don't assign one. So in my setup: br0 has Ports 1, 2, 3, WAN; WAN bridge has Port 4; and br1 has no port assigned. BTW, the GUI labels the ports incorrectly. On the back of the router, you see the ports labeled from top to bottom: modem, wired1, wired2, wired3, wired4. They correspond to Port 4, Port 3, Port 2, Port 1, WAN Port in the GUI, respectively.
3) Under Advanced, Virtual Wireless, add another SSID and assign it to br1. Set up the security option. I always use WPA2 Personal with AES with my setup.

At some point, the router reboots (or it may have rebooted prior to this). In Status, Overview, you should see wl0.1 with MAC address starting with 96 instead of 94 (could be different, I don't know), but the interface is down. I believe you're at this step.

4) Under Advanced, Virtual Wireless, wl0.1 tab, you see a warning about the MAC address. Remember that. When I did it, the last number was incorrect. Click on the MAC address and fix the incorrect address for wl0.1.

The router may need a reboot or whatever. After that, hopefully you see wl0.1 is up under Overview. Test it out to see if everything works correctly. I haven't tested it thoroughly since I don't plan to use a guest setup on this router/firmware. I'm writing the steps from memory, so forgive me if I overlook something. If you have success with it, please report. Also, if you could, please explain how config is different in Shibby vs. Toastman. That might help somebody else.

Edit: forgot to mention (thanks Engineer!) that the Notes under Virtual Wireless have some relevant info. In particular, new wireless VIF cannot be deleted in the GUI. So back up your settings beforehand. The Notes also explain why a correction to the MAC address is needed. A new version should fix that. This thread has more information.

More edit: be sure to see this for more info about guest access!

Another edit: Shibby's versions >=101 contain fixes for issues mentioned above.

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Keep in mind that if you create a Guest SSID (MultiSSID or Virtual Wireless), it's permanent and will not delete. I could not even disable or rename it as the original name was always broadcast. I finally cleared NVRAM to get rid of it. I love Tomato but obviously, this is not perfected yet. Still awesome firmware!

One gripe that I just thought about on this is the lack of LAN, WAN or Wireless lights. Don't really need them but I enjoyed them on all of my other routers, lol!

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Lights (320.64kB)
Disclaimer
Al3xK said:   
I don't know how people can deal with two of these for that purpose. I just picture two sets of AC adapter cords and Cat5 cables running everywhere all mashed up behind my TV stand with little flashing lights flickering off the wall when the lights are off.


To run another one of these routers for a separate G network would take just ONE patch cable and there is only ONE soft non-flashing light on this router.. Can I deal with that to better my wireless connectivity? You bet I can...

And to add, you can splice off the original AC adapter and run both routers if having two adapters plugged in isn't your cup of tea..

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bennor said:   isiddiqi said:   I can connect to my router's main page using router IP on my Android phone with no problem, I can also browse to any site outside of hotmail.com. Even my iPhone can connect no problem.

I replaced my Airport Extreme with this router and I am using the same SSID and Password, but I had also gone inside my Android and removed the old connection by selecting "Forget this network" and tried reconnecting with issue.

Its ironic that none of the computers at home or iPhone has any issue connecting only the two Androids

Some Android users who had trouble accessing Hotmail report that they had success using the Opera Mini browser. Others use the Hotmail app.


Fixed my problem. It seems the default MTU of 1492 was causing problems for hotmail.com only, and only on Android. MTU of 1484 fixed the issue.

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Briphite said:   just saying...

the range on this thing sucks. it improves greatly when you do N only, but that is kind of useless considering nearly everyone has at least one non-N device. when on N only, this thing is great. but once you enabled MIXED mode, good luck getting any range out of it. or any speed for that matter.


Running Toastman's Tomato and I get decent wireless coverage with Wireless Network Mode set to AUTO and as long as I don't have G and N devices connected at the same time (and they are hardly ever on at the same time), transfer speeds are great.. But I'm sorry that your expectations from a $22 router didn't meet that of more expensive ones..

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ct99 said:   buytech said:   If someone can please advice - will this be a good choice for a student to use in a dorm room? The room has Ethernet outlet to which she connects her notebook through RJ-45 cable and her Uni allows the use of Wi-Fi routers in rooms. She doesn’t need too much speed or range but would favor investing in something that can be future-proof if possible. She would prefer to use it out of the box with minimal settings and would not like to venture into upgrading to DD-WRT/TOMATO, if unnecessary. Any other suggestions/advice would be welcome. Thanks in advance!
In addition to what bennor said, note that in a crowded environment like a school dormitory, the 2.4GHz band may be inadequate.

Thank you ct99 for your comments. Sorry I am not too tech savvy – do you mean the router operates on 2.4GHz band and so I need something different? Any suggestions for alternatives? Thanks for your help!

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Al3xK said:   

I don't know how people can deal with two of these for that purpose. I just picture two sets of AC adapter cords and Cat5 cables running everywhere all mashed up behind my TV stand with little flashing lights flickering off the wall when the lights are off.


Cause all my gear is in a closet, out of sight, controlled by IR or RF

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Great finding. Thank you.

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I used Firefox and was scared for few minutes thinking I bricked the router because it didn't response after long time. It turned out Firefox didn't really upload the bin file at all. I don't know why. I disabled firewall, plugins, script blocking, etc. It worked fine in IE, gave me confirmation that file was sucessfully uploaded and then rebooted few minutes later.

Two quick questions. In DD-WRT Setup page, there's setting for Local DNS and 3 static DNS's. You don't need these in Repeater or AP mode because the router uses DNS it got from its WAN via DHCP from the modem or primary router. So in what cases do you have to enter these?

My laptop and desktop always get same IP address after every bootup even though network setting is to obtain address via DHCP. I remember rebooting the router and even flashing it once but still same number. I don't know from where it remembers this number to give out. This is with another brand, not this Belkin. I understand DHCP should hand out IP in sequential order starting from first available one. At my friend's house, first PC gets x.x.x.2 if booted up first, 2nd PC get x.x.x.3, etc. and if next time 2nd PC is first one on it gets the .2 address. Any ideas why?

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Starrx05 said:   I used Firefox and was scared for few minutes thinking I bricked the router because it didn't response after long time. It turned out Firefox didn't really upload the bin file at all. I don't know why. I disabled firewall, plugins, script blocking, etc. It worked fine in IE, gave me confirmation that file was sucessfully uploaded and then rebooted few minutes later.

Two quick questions. In DD-WRT Setup page, there's setting for Local DNS and 3 static DNS's. You don't need these in Repeater or AP mode because the router uses DNS it got from its WAN via DHCP from the modem or primary router. So in what cases do you have to enter these?

My laptop and desktop always get same IP address after every bootup even though network setting is to obtain address via DHCP. I remember rebooting the router and even flashing it once but still same number. I don't know from where it remembers this number to give out. This is with another brand, not this Belkin. I understand DHCP should hand out IP in sequential order starting from first available one. At my friend's house, first PC gets x.x.x.2 if booted up first, 2nd PC get x.x.x.3, etc. and if next time 2nd PC is first one on it gets the .2 address. Any ideas why?

Not 100% sure if this is the question you are asking but - when each IP is given out by DHCP, it has a 'lease' which is the length of timet that the address is valid. During that lease, it maintains the same IP address and does not request a new one from the DHCP server. In addition, the algorithm that DD-WRT uses is not random but is based on the device's MAC address, so it would be normal for them to get the same (non-sequential) IP. See here for more info on the latter:

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Index:FAQ#Why_aren.27t_DHCP...

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BostonOne said:   Starrx05 said:   I used Firefox and was scared for few minutes thinking I bricked the router because it didn't response after long time. It turned out Firefox didn't really upload the bin file at all. I don't know why. I disabled firewall, plugins, script blocking, etc. It worked fine in IE, gave me confirmation that file was sucessfully uploaded and then rebooted few minutes later.

Two quick questions. In DD-WRT Setup page, there's setting for Local DNS and 3 static DNS's. You don't need these in Repeater or AP mode because the router uses DNS it got from its WAN via DHCP from the modem or primary router. So in what cases do you have to enter these?

My laptop and desktop always get same IP address after every bootup even though network setting is to obtain address via DHCP. I remember rebooting the router and even flashing it once but still same number. I don't know from where it remembers this number to give out. This is with another brand, not this Belkin. I understand DHCP should hand out IP in sequential order starting from first available one. At my friend's house, first PC gets x.x.x.2 if booted up first, 2nd PC get x.x.x.3, etc. and if next time 2nd PC is first one on it gets the .2 address. Any ideas why?

Not 100% sure if this is the question you are asking but - when each IP is given out by DHCP, it has a 'lease' which is the length of timet that the address is valid. During that lease, it maintains the same IP address and does not request a new one from the DHCP server. In addition, the algorithm that DD-WRT uses is not random but is based on the device's MAC address, so it would be normal for them to get the same (non-sequential) IP. See here for more info on the latter:

http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Index:FAQ#Why_aren.27t_DHCP...


Also check and make sure you don't have your laptop and desktop on static IPs..

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buytech said:   ct99 said:   buytech said:   If someone can please advice - will this be a good choice for a student to use in a dorm room? The room has Ethernet outlet to which she connects her notebook through RJ-45 cable and her Uni allows the use of Wi-Fi routers in rooms. She doesn’t need too much speed or range but would favor investing in something that can be future-proof if possible. She would prefer to use it out of the box with minimal settings and would not like to venture into upgrading to DD-WRT/TOMATO, if unnecessary. Any other suggestions/advice would be welcome. Thanks in advance!
In addition to what bennor said, note that in a crowded environment like a school dormitory, the 2.4GHz band may be inadequate.

Thank you ct99 for your comments. Sorry I am not too tech savvy – do you mean the router operates on 2.4GHz band and so I need something different? Any suggestions for alternatives? Thanks for your help!


What ct99 is recommending is a router which supports the 5GHz band which is not so common in a 2.4GHz dominated router market..

I honestly think that this router will probably suit your needs just fine even in a crowded WiFi environment if you're just looking for connectivity to the internet.. If your needs require faster connection speeds, a 5GHz band router will be what you want..

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Starrx05 said:   In DD-WRT Setup page, there's setting for Local DNS and 3 static DNS's. You don't need these in Repeater or AP mode because the router uses DNS it got from its WAN via DHCP from the modem or primary router. So in what cases do you have to enter these?
One possible time when the DNS information needs to be filled in is if you download packages to the firmware. A few pages back I detailed my experience with loading Lighttpd (a web server) to the router. I couldn't get any packages to download when issuing the "wget" command. Turns out the DNS fields had to be filled in for the "wget" command to work.

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I'm having some bad luck with this router sofar. Went straight to dd-wrt mega to replace a Cisco WRT160N also with dd-wrt, and now I see my wireless speed jumping between 72 and 144 Mbps and never going higher than 144. With the Cisco in the same location, I'm jumping between 150 and 300.

Even worse, my wife's PC will not get access. I see her laptop connected and showing an IP address through DHCP, but she can't ping anything at all, not even the router's LAN IP. Switched back to the Cisco and everything's perfect.

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PhantomZX said:   I'm having some bad luck with this router sofar. Went straight to dd-wrt mega to replace a Cisco WRT160N also with dd-wrt, and now I see my wireless speed jumping between 72 and 144 Mbps and never going higher than 144. With the Cisco in the same location, I'm jumping between 150 and 300.

Even worse, my wife's PC will not get access. I see her laptop connected and showing an IP address through DHCP, but she can't ping anything at all, not even the router's LAN IP. Switched back to the Cisco and everything's perfect.


What operating system does your wife's PC have (Vista by chance)?

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Engineer said:   
What operating system does your wife's PC have (Vista by chance)?

Yes, she's running Vista.

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PhantomZX said:   Engineer said:   
What operating system does your wife's PC have (Vista by chance)?

Yes, she's running Vista.


Google "Vista local only" and see what comes up. I had the issue with my daughter's PC and tried every fix I could find. I finally had to use a generic driver (much newer) for the wireless card in the PC to get it to work.

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Engineer said:   
Google "Vista local only" and see what comes up. I had the issue with my daughter's PC and tried every fix I could find. I finally had to use a generic driver (much newer) for the wireless card in the PC to get it to work.


Great - thanks for that info! Any ideas why I would only be seeing half the speed with the Belkin over the WRT-160N? I tried both G/N and N only with the same results. Even bumped up the power from 71 to 75. The AP is only about 15 ft away from me, but with a wall between.

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PhantomZX said:    The AP is only about 15 ft away from me, but with a wall between.

To be honest, those speeds are quite normal given that fact your WiFi is being transmitted through a wall. Best case scenarios would involve 150-300Mbs speeds.. I tend to believe connection speeds are not indicative of actual transfer speeds.. For those tests I would use jperf or iperf to gauge the speeds between devices..

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One thing is sure though!!! the wireless signal strength is very very poor!!! sitting just about 10 feet away from the router gives me only 3 bars instead of full 5 bars!!! and if I go to the next room about 20 feet away, it drops further!! any help to improve that would really be appreciated!!! (BTW, I have FiOS 50/25 and running DD-WRT (mega) with Wireless-N only mode) Thanks in advance!!

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Engineer said:   Keep in mind that if you create a Guest SSID (MultiSSID or Virtual Wireless), it's permanent and will not delete. I could not even disable or rename it as the original name was always broadcast. I finally cleared NVRAM to get rid of it. I love Tomato but obviously, this is not perfected yet. Still awesome firmware!

One gripe that I just thought about on this is the lack of LAN, WAN or Wireless lights. Don't really need them but I enjoyed them on all of my other routers, lol!


Not sure about Toastman's, haven't tried the VLAN version. I'm running Shibby's Big Tomato version. Read that part Under Advanced/Virtual Wireless Notes where it says you can't delete it once you create it, was a bit concerned that I would have to reflash but I went ahead as my household has too many devices connected for me to reset passwords on everything when I let a guest use the net and want to change it afterwards. I was able to disable it when I unchecked Enable, and it did disappear for me when I did a scan, but I'm running shibby's.

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atlanta25 said:   One thing is sure though!!! the wireless signal strength is very very poor!!! sitting just about 10 feet away from the router gives me only 3 bars instead of full 5 bars!!! and if I go to the next room about 20 feet away, it drops further!! any help to improve that would really be appreciated!!! (BTW, I have FiOS 50/25 and running DD-WRT (mega) with Wireless-N only mode) Thanks in advance!!

Try Tomato.. It really shouldn't be that low.. I have two, one DD-WRT and one Tomato and at 10ft away I am getting full bars with the routers in my wall unit..

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Hypnosis4u2nv said:   atlanta25 said:   One thing is sure though!!! the wireless signal strength is very very poor!!! sitting just about 10 feet away from the router gives me only 3 bars instead of full 5 bars!!! and if I go to the next room about 20 feet away, it drops further!! any help to improve that would really be appreciated!!! (BTW, I have FiOS 50/25 and running DD-WRT (mega) with Wireless-N only mode) Thanks in advance!!

Try Tomato.. It really shouldn't be that low.. I have two, one DD-WRT and one Tomato and at 10ft away I am getting full bars with the routers in my wall unit..


Thanks, I will try it out tomorrow.

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CT your awesome!

ct99 said:   
I wasn't gonna do a guest setup on this router, but since you have a problem, I tried it out (I'm on Shibby's right now).
Quick steps:
1) Under Basic, Network, add a bridge (br1).
2) Under Advanced, VLAN, add a VLAN. I don't plan to let a guest use physical ports, so I don't assign one. So in my setup: br0 has Ports 1, 2, 3, WAN; WAN bridge has Port 4; and br1 has no port assigned. BTW, the GUI labels the ports incorrectly. On the back of the router, you see the ports labeled from top to bottom: modem, wired1, wired2, wired3, wired4. They correspond to Port 4, Port 3, Port 2, Port 1, WAN Port in the GUI, respectively.
3) Under Advanced, Virtual Wireless, add another SSID and assign it to br1. Set up the security option. I always use WPA2 Personal with AES with my setup.


CT thanks for setting yours up.

2) Took me awhile to figure out the br0 and wan ports were mislabeled on the gui when I followed this guide Guest Account MultiSSID and couldn't get it to work. Then looked up another guide Guide 2 which didn't have any ports selected, so went with that and everything was working. The first guide might work with Toastmans if the ports are not mislabled, but shibby's it's just easier to leave it alone and add +1 to the vlan, so make it 3, assign it lan1(br1)



At some point, the router reboots (or it may have rebooted prior to this). In Status, Overview, you should see wl0.1 with MAC address starting with 96 instead of 94 (could be different, I don't know), but the interface is down. I believe you're at this step.

4) Under Advanced, Virtual Wireless, wl0.1 tab, you see a warning about the MAC address. Remember that. When I did it, the last number was incorrect. Click on the MAC address and fix the incorrect address for wl0.1.


Eureka...Ever get that moment when it's working and your grinning and laughing and your whole day just turned awesome? Well not for me, lol joking, IT WORKS! Your right. Didn't make a mental connection with that warning. Changed the MAC address and the warning went away. Tested it after changing that mac adddress, had to "forget" or clear out the password I had for guest and rescan so that i could renter it as my device tried to connect with the old password, but damn it's connecting with authentication now!


The router may need a reboot or whatever. After that, hopefully you see wl0.1 is up under Overview. Test it out to see if everything works correctly. I haven't tested it thoroughly since I don't plan to use a guest setup on this router/firmware. I'm writing the steps from memory, so forgive me if I overlook something. If you have success with it, please report. Also, if you could, please explain how config is different in Shibby vs. Toastman. That might help somebody else.

Edit: forgot to mention (thanks Engineer!) that the Notes under Virtual Wireless have some relevant info. In particular, new wireless VIF cannot be deleted in the GUI. So back up your settings beforehand. The Notes also explain why a correction to the MAC address is needed. A new version should fix that. This thread has more information.


Summary of what we have now with Shibby's Big Tomato for anyone looking to do guest accounts/multi SSID's.
That MAC address warning did it, didn't quite understand it till you pointed out changing it under advanced/ mac address. Also the GUI is mislabeled. Can't comment on Toastmans as I went straight to Shibby's and so far getting everything I need and running toastmans would be a whole new learning curve for me lol. Under notes, it explained it all but needed more explaining of how to change the mac address as you pointed out how to do, thanks for your very detailed post.

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I need help because I managed to brick my router.
Long story short, successfully flashed dd-wrt mega. Then tried moving to tomato.
For some reason after flashing wan't able to login. So tried moving back do dd-wrt
But in that process managed to brick it. So if any of you guys know how to debrick
the router please provide me some useful information. Please don't mention 30-30-30
I have tried it too many times. Thanks in advance

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I understand from this thread that this router's advantage to flash firmware..I'm new on this tech produts.. What is the benefits of flashing the firmware? Thanks

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I installed tomato-K26USB-1.28.7500.MIPSR2Toastman-VLAN-RT-Ext last night and was very successful getting both the wireless and the ethernet LAN ports working. The wireless works without fail, but the wired LAN ethernet (a voip phone system and a second router for guest accounts) all lose internet access after about 1/2 hour. The wireless is solid. Reboting the N300 solves the problem, but within an hour the ethernet connections lose internet access again. I had used exact same setup with the upgraded Belkin firmware for about 5 hours before loading Tomato. Under Belkin, there was no internet drop for the ethernet LAN, so I think the hardware is not at fault. I would go back to Belkin except I need Qos which Belkin doesn't support. Any ideas where I might look in my Tomato setup for a solution? Thanks

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Router seems to be running a little hot. Has an external temp of 105 at its hottest point. Is this normal for this router. My previous Netgear router was always very cool to the touch.

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I need help because I managed to brick my router.
Long story short, successfully flashed dd-wrt mega. Then tried moving to tomato.
For some reason after flashing wan't able to login. So tried moving back do dd-wrt
But in that process managed to brick it. So if any of you guys know how to debrick
the router please provide me some useful information. Please don't mention 30-30-30
I have tried it too many times. Thanks in advance

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Hypnosis4u2nv said:   buytech said:   ct99 said:   buytech said:   If someone can please advice - will this be a good choice for a student to use in a dorm room? The room has Ethernet outlet to which she connects her notebook through RJ-45 cable and her Uni allows the use of Wi-Fi routers in rooms. She doesn’t need too much speed or range but would favor investing in something that can be future-proof if possible. She would prefer to use it out of the box with minimal settings and would not like to venture into upgrading to DD-WRT/TOMATO, if unnecessary. Any other suggestions/advice would be welcome. Thanks in advance!
In addition to what bennor said, note that in a crowded environment like a school dormitory, the 2.4GHz band may be inadequate.

Thank you ct99 for your comments. Sorry I am not too tech savvy – do you mean the router operates on 2.4GHz band and so I need something different? Any suggestions for alternatives? Thanks for your help!


What ct99 is recommending is a router which supports the 5GHz band which is not so common in a 2.4GHz dominated router market..

I honestly think that this router will probably suit your needs just fine even in a crowded WiFi environment if you're just looking for connectivity to the internet.. If your needs require faster connection speeds, a 5GHz band router will be what you want..

Thank you Hypnosis4u2nv for clarifying. You are right, she is looking more for wireless connectivity to the internet rather than much speed or range.

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Yaar said:   I need help because I managed to brick my router.
Long story short, successfully flashed dd-wrt mega. Then tried moving to tomato.
For some reason after flashing wan't able to login. So tried moving back do dd-wrt
But in that process managed to brick it. So if any of you guys know how to debrick
the router please provide me some useful information. Please don't mention 30-30-30
I have tried it too many times. Thanks in advance

When flashing to TomatoUSB the DHCP server is NOT active. You must use a static IP (for example 192.168.1.8) on the computer. After setting your computer to use a static IP, power cycle the router and wait for the router's status light to turn green. When accessing TomatoUSB it will prompt for a login and password. Use the following; username: root, password: admin. Once you access the TomatoUSB interface you can activate the DHCP Server and change your computer's static IP back to "obtain IP address automatically".

The router is rarely if ever really bricked. If worst comes to worst, set a static IP of 192.168.1.8 on your computer, remove power to the router and press in and hold in the reset button, reapply power and while continuing to hold in the reset button on the router count to 30, then open a web browser (preferably IE) and go to http://192.168.1.1 and you should get the CFE menu. Once on the CFE page you can flash to DD-WRT Mini (and then to a full verion of DD-WRT or TomatoUSB), or back to the Belkin firmware. Note when flashing the router you should wait at least 5 minutes after flashing before attempting to access the router's administration page. And sometimes it helps to power cycle the router after flashing. It may take up to two minutes after power cycling for the router to finish booting.

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The WRT160N refurbished is on Amazon right now for ~$16 with FSSS - how do these two stack up?

NVM - I guess the USB feature is what's desirable on this Belkin unit. I was thinking strictly for wireless performance.

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PhantomZX said:   The WRT160N refurbished is on Amazon right now for ~$16 with FSSS - how do these two stack up?

NVM - I guess the USB feature is what's desirable on this Belkin unit. I was thinking strictly for wireless performance.

Supposedly these Belkin routers are not used. In addition to the Belkin having two USB ports, the Belkin also has 4 (5 if you count the WAN port) switched Gigabit ports.

That particular Linksys router in addition to being used/refurbished, does not have USB ports, and it only has 10/100Mbps Ethernet ports.

rated:
Depends on which version of the WRT160N that you get. Some are older and use version 1 of the tomato series but are somewhat limited in speed and what they can take. Also, any version only has 4MB flash so that limits you further. Good price if you get the version 3 if you need it.

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