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Sears LED Work Light with 30 ft. Retractable Reel $37.50 Archived From: Expired Deals

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Be sure to read the reviews for this one. Especially the one by the EE who pulled it apart to find a fatal design flaw. Looks like a good deal OP, but on a mediocre product...

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taipan said:Be sure to read the reviews for this one. Especially the one by the EE who pulled it apart to find a fatal design flaw. Looks like a good deal OP, but on a mediocre product...

Any real smart electrical FW's care to chime in on this rewire review. Would consider getting this as the LED sounds interesting!

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brotherhpj said:taipan said:Be sure to read the reviews for this one. Especially the one by the EE who pulled it apart to find a fatal design flaw. Looks like a good deal OP, but on a mediocre product...

Any real smart electrical FW's care to chime in on this rewire review. Would consider getting this as the LED sounds interesting!


what's there to chime in on. the reviews speak for themselves.

Sears Review said:I recently purchased one of these lights because I wanted a bright work light for working on my cars that would not burn out or break after getting "bumped". Mine worked just fine for a few months, then stopped working. The aux power socket worked and the green LED power light still worked but no main LED array. Well, I am an electrical engineer (EE) and took the unit apart to see what may have failed and to fix it if possible (beyond the 90 day warranty period). The internal fuse was fine but it appears the power IC failed. I found the design flaw, which Sears could have their vendor correct for NO additional cost! The problem is that the AC power goes to the LED power supply board first and then passes through a DPST switch (wired as a SPST) to the LED array. That means that if you leave your worklight plugged in 24/7, the internal power supply is ON and in an unloaded state 24/7 as well! I have my unit plugged into the same AC outlet as my excellent Craftsmen garage door opener and I suspect that over time the simple internal power supply just can't handle long term power spikes, power outages and being on 24/7 in an unloaded state (unit never got warm however - that is good). So to fix the problem, I exchanged it for another unit and did a very simple rewire job. I rewired the unit such that the AC power went to the DPDT switch first, then to the internal power supply and then to the LED array. That way, the internal power supply is only on when I am really using the work light and totally off when I'm not! While this is a simple fix and one that I can't recommend to the novice, Sears could have the vendor for this light do the same and solve their long-term reliablity issues. They should replace for free any customer's worklight that display this failure with the reworked unit. Another solution would be to redesign the internal power supply and make it more robust. I hope Sears listens!!

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kraeji said:brotherhpj said:taipan said:Be sure to read the reviews for this one. Especially the one by the EE who pulled it apart to find a fatal design flaw. Looks like a good deal OP, but on a mediocre product...

Any real smart electrical FW's care to chime in on this rewire review. Would consider getting this as the LED sounds interesting!


what's there to chime in on. the reviews speak for themselves.

Sears Review said:I recently purchased one of these lights because I wanted a bright work light for working on my cars that would not burn out or break after getting "bumped". Mine worked just fine for a few months, then stopped working. The aux power socket worked and the green LED power light still worked but no main LED array. Well, I am an electrical engineer (EE) and took the unit apart to see what may have failed and to fix it if possible (beyond the 90 day warranty period). The internal fuse was fine but it appears the power IC failed. I found the design flaw, which Sears could have their vendor correct for NO additional cost! The problem is that the AC power goes to the LED power supply board first and then passes through a DPST switch (wired as a SPST) to the LED array. That means that if you leave your worklight plugged in 24/7, the internal power supply is ON and in an unloaded state 24/7 as well! I have my unit plugged into the same AC outlet as my excellent Craftsmen garage door opener and I suspect that over time the simple internal power supply just can't handle long term power spikes, power outages and being on 24/7 in an unloaded state (unit never got warm however - that is good). So to fix the problem, I exchanged it for another unit and did a very simple rewire job. I rewired the unit such that the AC power went to the DPDT switch first, then to the internal power supply and then to the LED array. That way, the internal power supply is only on when I am really using the work light and totally off when I'm not! While this is a simple fix and one that I can't recommend to the novice, Sears could have the vendor for this light do the same and solve their long-term reliablity issues. They should replace for free any customer's worklight that display this failure with the reworked unit. Another solution would be to redesign the internal power supply and make it more robust. I hope Sears listens!!

So what are you saying? You can verify this works and this guy is no crackpot?

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What's there to chime in on? FWIW, here's my 2 cents on the review.

The reviewer disassembled an out-of-warranty light but then "exchanged it for another unit." Huh? Made me wonder if he didn't perhaps buy a new light first and then return the broken one in the new box using the new receipt. Hope the old light didn't make it back to the shelf.

How did the DPST switch become a DPDT? Perhaps this was just a typo, but why didn't the reviewer simply use the unused pole to switch AC?

The explanation and fix sounded reasonable but the "very simple rewire job" voided UL compliance and may have violated creepage and clearance. Is the switch UL listed and rated for 120VAC? Is the lower AC current enough to prevent contact oxidation? Is the aux AC outlet still unswitched? Would a MOV across the incoming AC accomplish the same thing? If the switch shorts to housing, is the light now a safety hazard that will put 120VAC between the hand you have on the light and the one that just touched your grounded power tool? Inquiring minds want to know.

The reviewer also doesn't take into account that his "simple fix" would require UL recertification which would probably not be at "NO additional cost."

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