FAR Monroe Premium Ceramic and Dynamnic Brake Pads at Amazon.com (Hurry!)

lexcurat said: Electronic brake-force distribution on newer cars. Look it up. The rears do most of the braking, most of the time (except in very hard stops). The rear pads are small, work hard, and wear out before the fronts on these cars.
Not Quite. You mean newer cars with ABS and especially with ESC or DSC. EBD works in conjuction with ABS to help distribute brake pressure on the wheels.
As per SAE technical paper #920646 - Buschmann et al. "The job of the EBD as a subsystem of the ABS system is to control the effective adhesion utilization by the rear wheels." That doesn't mean EBD on all the time. ESC and/or ABS will activate EBD when it senses the need for it.

The physics of Weight Distribution of a vehicle during moderate and hard braking gives more brake strength to the front brakes because of Inertia.

lexcurat said: Electronic brake-force distribution on newer cars. Look it up. The rears do most of the braking, most of the time (except in very hard stops). The rear pads are small, work hard, and wear out before the fronts on these cars. Old timers, saying otherwise, please do educate yourselves on this; welcome to the 21st century.

Silly rabbit, wipe your chin...

Fallout said: Some other auto parts rebates are here:

http://www.rockauto.com/lang/en/promo.html#top

I bought brake pads for my wife's car a few months back from www.RockAuto.com I got Monroe for the front and Wagner for the back (they didn't have the monroe rear pad in stock at the time), and got both rebates back.

So if Amazon doesn't have your pads in stock I would Highly recommend Rockauto, they are a good company.

Awesome, I was just looking for brake pads!

FOR THIS PRICE, IS IT SOLD BY PAIR OR PER UNIT?

Thanks to the old folks for the in-depth quotes on Electronic Brake-force Distribution. Anecdotally, these cars (and it's now on cars costing less than $20K, so is becoming universal) DO wear out the rear pads first quite frequently. EBD is functioning most of the time. It keeps the front-end dive at a minimum, for a better ride. As you say, it does have safety aspects, particularly with a heavy load, and safety sells, so that is the focus of the typical marketing discussion. (Let's not tell buyers they'll be putting on new rear pads every 20-40K; they don't like that...) From an engineering perspective, it is an easy upgrade to EBD only if the car already has 4 channel ALB. Surprising how many cars only had 2 channel ALB (I'm looking at you, Government Motors.)

In addition to pads wearing out real fast, I recently changed out the rears on my 04 Accord, which had always been lacking in immediate bite in every braking situation since it was brand new. Now the brakes bite very nicely, even at moderate deceleration. It is obvious that the REARS are the ones that made the difference.

lexcurat said: Thanks to the old folks for the in-depth quotes on Electronic Brake-force Distribution. Anecdotally, these cars (and it's now on cars costing less than $20K, so is becoming universal) DO wear out the rear pads first quite frequently. EBD is functioning most of the time. It keeps the front-end dive at a minimum, for a better ride. As you say, it does have safety aspects, particularly with a heavy load, and safety sells, so that is the focus of the typical marketing discussion. (Let's not tell buyers they'll be putting on new rear pads every 20-40K; they don't like that...) From an engineering perspective, it is an easy upgrade to EBD only if the car already has 4 channel ALB. Surprising how many cars only had 2 channel ALB (I'm looking at you, Government Motors.)

In addition to pads wearing out real fast, I recently changed out the rears on my 04 Accord, which had always been lacking in immediate bite in every braking situation since it was brand new. Now the brakes bite very nicely, even at moderate deceleration. It is obvious that the REARS are the ones that made the difference.

Even in race cars, where drivers can adjust the brake bias, the front brakes still do most of the the braking. It's simple physics.

It's also why, with the introduction of KERS in F1, Toyota was still pushing for 4 wheel KERS, rather than the current 2 wheel system, since the braking recovery from the front wheels is much greater than the rear.

If braking were truly biased towards the rear, you'd end up with a very unstable car under braking, with the weight shifting to the front wheels, the rear wheels being unloaded, and the rears then getting more force compared to the fronts.

2cheap2ignore said: Item 7 on the rebate form says "Offer may not be combined with any other discount, offer or rebate." The CX503 brake pads for my 1997 Honda Odyssey had an original price of $85.46 on Amazon, but were marked down to $34.31. Anyone think that the "discount" will kill the rebate?

Mine were also marked down but that should not have any effect on the rebate as your receipt only shows the total amount you paid.

Thanks OP - good find!

THESE ARE SOLD AS A SET = front OR rear. The set covers both wheels in front OR both wheels rear.

dongky said: Bought the ceramic ones, and also bought Duralast Gold rotors from Autozone for $39 each. Much cheaper than resurfacing the old ones.

I've never heard of paying more than $6-$8 each to turn (resurface) a rotor. Keepin mind turning rotors from my experience isn't ALWAYS required. It does depend on the warping and striations on the rotor itself. A lot of the time the damage to the brake rotors is caused by each drivers "unique" driving styles. My dad is 63 and incredibly "talented" when it comes to destroying breaks. He is lucky to get 18K miles out of his front brakes. I can typically get 60K-75K out of my passenger cars before a front brake replace.

Really, it is exhausting trying to convince you I'm smarter than you are, while you're engaged in the same endeavor. 8^) I will amend my earlier statement that "most" of the braking is accomplished by the rears, I really meant to say "much more" by the rears than with a non-EBD system. As to a rear-biased system being unstable, two words: Proportioning Valve. Applying the rears first make the car more stable, not less. And no, I am easy on brakes. My Accord rear pads were replaced at 65,000 and were just beginning to touch the wear indicators. At that time, the fronts still had 30%+ left. My all time record was over 105,000 miles on a '90 Integra before any brake work (front pads). And this is with a great deal of city traffic.

It seems as if a lot of people are asking about the differences between the Ceramic and Dynamic pads, so I did a bit of research to help others out.

Firstly, keep in mind that the Monroe Dynamic pads are usually what is known as semi-metallic ("Dynamic" is most likely just the name that Monroe uses).

From Monroe's official site:
Q: What are the differences between the Ceramics and Dynamics formulations? A. To maintain the braking performance of any vehicle, it's generally recommended to follow the OE manufacturer’s choice of friction material (replacing semi-metallic with semi-metallic, organic with organic, etc.). There are, however, options for improving braking performance. That's why Monroe offers choices to assist in making the best selection for each vehicle. Monroe Ceramics brake pads feature a non-ferrous formulation to reduce noise and dusting. Monroe Dynamics semi-metallic formulations and manufacturing technologies increase overall pad life. Both offer stable friction performance across wide temperature ranges.

From an automobile forum, where people asked about the difference between ceramic and semi-metallic (Dynamic) pads:
Semi-met vs. Ceramic Each has it's own pros and cons. The major difference between the 2 pads is that ceramic is an insulator and as such pushes the heat generated when braking into the rotor making the rotor take the brunt of the effort. When extended or heavy braking is required such as in a performance application or towing regularly this is a bad thing as it can cause the rotors to over-heat...warp or fail. Ceramic benifits are that dust is almost non-existenet as well as initial and sustained braking pressure is usually more efficient than other forms of linings. Additionally lining life in non-performance/towing applications usually far outlasts traditional lining materials as well. I think I've covered most of the pro's and cons of ceramics, semi-mets are pretty understood and I don't think need to be covered. For daily drivers and light towing applications I belive ceramics are an excellent choice. For heavy towing or performance applications there are better options.

I hope this helps,
Victor Ly

Good info - only thing I will add is (through actual experience) for the street some ceramic pads tend to squeak more - especially when cold. The pro is less dust. That said I am running ceramic pads (some inexpensive brand - I think Centric) and quite happy.
This is a good deal - though RockAuto.com is only $6 or $7 more. Generally Monroe products are a good value.

lexcurat said: Really, it is exhausting trying to convince you I'm smarter than you are, while you're engaged in the same endeavor. 8^)

May be you should try constructive statements and not trying to prove that you are smarter than some unknown person on the internet.

lexcurat said: I will amend my earlier statement that "most" of the braking is accomplished by the rears, I really meant to say "much more" by the rears than with a non-EBD system.

That's changing your entire argument.

lexcurat said: As to a rear-biased system being unstable, two words: Proportioning Valve. Applying the rears first make the car more stable, not less.

One word: oversteer. Unless you are a rally driver or a drifter, that's not what you want, simple as that. And proportioning valve is there to reduce braking pressure which means less braking which means that your original statement is even more wrong.

lexcurat said: And no, I am easy on brakes.
Exactly the point, thanks for proving it. "Riding brakes" does not mean that you punch them hard, it means you use them lightly, which generates little braking power, yet a high amount of heat and wear.

lexcurat said: My Accord rear pads were replaced at 65,000 and were just beginning to touch the wear indicators. At that time, the fronts still had 30%+ left. My all time record was over 105,000 miles on a '90 Integra before any brake work (front pads). And this is with a great deal of city traffic.

Stop riding your brakes and the wear will be more even.

OK, it's the metering valve section of the "combo valve" that makes the rears come on first, not the proportioning valve section of the "combo valve." The proportioning valve only keeps the maximum pressures off the rear to prevent lockup in extreme braking. Regardless of nomenclature, what you have is rears coming on first, but being restricted as to maximum pressures so the fronts can do their thing in very hard stops. Now is this really different than my point all along? In normal braking, the rears are doing more work than they used to and wear out fast.

Isnt this a deal forum? wheres the mods.. pages of correcting one anothers bs.. cant even read about the item at hand. crise.

just thought i would mention that there are a couple of places that offer lifetime brakes which is generally an amazing investment (autozone and others...)

WingsOverVirginia said: crazypalooza said: just thought i would mention that there are a couple of places that offer lifetime brakes which is generally an amazing investment (autozone and others...)
This is the same deal, which is a "Limited Lifetime" warranty. Which means that if you register the new pads with the manufacturer and then print out the warranty certificate they email, you get one free exchange for a new set of pads/shoes when the ones you purchase wears out. I'm unclear if monroes warranty allows for replacement once or again and again. I know at autozone, you can do it forever! "monro" (not the monroe offered here) also allows lifetime replacement again and again but they charge for labor. for do-it-yourselfers, autozones deal is amazing especially for road warriors...i go through brakes every 3-6 months!

That's good experience. I was fortunate to grow up on a farm, we tried to do everything ourselves. If you don't try, you never learn.

savantman said: I need some help about how to fill out the last three items in the rebate form. Thanks! city, state and zip code ?