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Lowe's is having a pretty good Truck Load sale on Owens Corning Insulation.

Owens Corning R-30 15" x 25' (31.25 sq ft) roll of unfaced Attic insulation has a new low price of $9.37 (Was around $18 or so). Lowes also has a $100 rebate Gift Card on $399 purchase of insulation Mail in Offer. This can also be combined with the Post Office 10% moving coupon and 30% Goverment Tax Credit to make the deal even better.

I've been tempted to add more insulation for several years now and this is as inexpensive as I've seen. For example, 64 rolls @ $9.37 + $60 delivery fee - 10% coupon - 30% Goverment Tax Credit - $100 rebate card equals about $320 for 2000 sq ft of insulation.

As a reference point, in previous years it was running for just under $1000 for that amount.

To receive your Gift Card:

1. Purchase $399 or more of qualifying Owens Corning or
Johns-Manville In-Stock Fiberglass Insulation at a Lowe’s Home
Improvement Warehouse between 9/25/09 and 10/25/09. Final
purchase amount must be $399 or more before taxes and after all
applicable discounts and/or instant rebates to qualify. Requests
must be postmarked by 11/25/09. - Claims postmarked after this
date will not be honored.

$399 is 48 rolls at 10% off which will cover 1500 square feet.

Member Summary
Most Recent Posts
Wow I just received the $100 gift card for this deal in the mail today. Quickest turnaround I've ever seen on a rebate ... (more)

mwerner1 (Nov. 11, 2009 @ 7:32a) |

Wow I just received the $100 gift card for this deal in the mail today. Quickest turnaround I've ever seen on a rebate ... (more)

mwerner1 (Nov. 11, 2009 @ 7:32a) |

Got mine today too! If you have any extra you can return them back w/o any problem.

inurface (Nov. 22, 2009 @ 8:04a) |

IMPORTANT NOTE FOR THOSE WANTING TO QUALIFY FOR FEDERAL TAX CREDITS FOR INSULATION UPGRADES:

Not only do you have to keep your receipts for your insulation expenses, but to qualify, you OFFICIALLY have to show that your new level of insulation meets or exceeds the 2009 IECC energy code minimum guidelines. I'm not sure how to go about getting this certified other than some kind of inspection that will provide you with paperwork to prove you meet this energy code requirement. I'm also not sure how they will attempt to enforce this requirement come tax time.

More Info Here: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=tax_credits.tx_index#c2

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Just in case someone has already qualified for a portion of the $1500 total they are eligible to receive... As a person who already installed a new heat pump (non-geothermal) , my $1500 is already used up

EnergyStar.gov said: $1,500 is the maximum total amount that can be claimed for all products placed in service in 2009 & 2010 for most home improvements, EXCEPT for geothermal heat pumps, solar water heaters, solar panels, fuel cells, and small wind energy systems which are not subject to this cap, and are in effect through 2016.

Source for more rebate information

Another source for more rebate information...

I think HD just dropped their price, not sure what it is thought (I remember seeing an ad on TV the other day). PM opportunity as well?

do you have a SKU and model # by any chance? There are two versions and both are R-30 but one marked as E22 and other as ME30. Both carries same SKU of 177781 and price of $11.88 on the web and in the store near me.

thanx.


just realized that today is sunday. cheaper price must have been last week's. damn I missed it.

In the rebate it says, "qualifying Owens Corning or Johns-Manville"...checked Lowes.com and talked to the people at the store but no one appears to know what is on the list.

Anyone know where a list of what qualifies might be?

clar said: do you have a SKU and model # by any chance? There are two versions and both are R-30 but one marked as E22 and other as ME30. Both carries same SKU of 177781 and price of $11.88 on the web and in the store near me.

thanx.

just realized that today is sunday. cheaper price must have been last week's. damn I missed it.


It's still going on, actually just started a few days ago, but not sure when it ends.

As far as E22 and ME30, I believe it just depends what they carry. ME30 claims to be broken down into Batts instead on one continous roll, but I was unable to locate them in my local Lowes.

It's still $9.37 at my store so probably just regional pricing.

Edit: BTW, great deal with stacking all three discounts. I only need about 500 sq ft so I can't really justify picking up 1500 sq ft to get the rebate deal.

kazanjig said: I think HD just dropped their price, not sure what it is thought (I remember seeing an ad on TV the other day). PM opportunity as well?Yes, they did. However, Home Depot carries the Certainteed brand and the $100 rebate is lowes only.

I purchased these R30 15" x 25' rolls last year about this time at lowes. The price was $15.11 and I was able to get them for $13.60 with 10% coupon but Lowes promotion was $100 gift card for $300 purchase of insulation. After adding the insulation my electric bill went down by $60-$100 during summer. Couldnt be happier and cooler in Miami.

is this just for attic? Can you use it in the garage for example?

Can this be rolled over loose fill insulation?

how about
47 rolls @ $9.37 + $60 delivery fee (+ 7% tax) - 10% coupon - 30% Goverment Tax Credit - $100 rebate card equals about $235 for ~1468 sq ft of insulation.

10% COUPON from post office, does that have to be ordered or can it be picked up at the PO?

gvayl said: is this just for attic? Can you use it in the garage for example?
You can use this in your garage, and you can use this on top of loose fill.

azygous said: how about
47 rolls @ $9.37 + $60 delivery fee (+ 7% tax) - 10% coupon - 30% Goverment Tax Credit - $100 rebate card equals about $235 for ~1468 sq ft of insulation.
You must puchase $399 after 10% discount, so you need 48+ rolls or no $100 rebate.

trb33 said: gvayl said: is this just for attic? Can you use it in the garage for example?
You can use this in your garage, and you can use this on top of loose fill.
Another good use is basement ceilings. Makes the first floor much more comfortabe.

titewad said: trb33 said: gvayl said: is this just for attic? Can you use it in the garage for example?
You can use this in your garage, and you can use this on top of loose fill.
Another good use is basement ceilings. Makes the first floor much more comfortabe.


Not to mention helps with noise!

Thanks op and others. I am going to try it.

Inside the Post Office movers guide that expires 12/31/2009(Pub.75 vol.47) which you should be able to pick up at any P.O.in their lobby (or you can ask your friendly mail person to bring a couple movers guide for you) for free there is a 10% coupon for lowes that can be used immediately at lowes or Home Depot(competitors coupon)

titewad said: Another good use is basement ceilings. Makes the first floor much more comfortabe.For an already finished basement, I would like at plastic encapsulated insulation just to help with clean up issues. It runs about $12.50 for the same size roll at Home Depot this week.

can this be used for garage insulation?

gvayl said: can this be used for garage insulation?

Yep.

Question about R-values... are they cumulative? OP's find is for R-30... according to documentation from USDoE the recommended insulation level here in Vermont (zone 6) is between R-49 and R-60 in the attic. Does this mean I'd need two layers in my attic?

Thanks!

GeoffS said: Question about R-values... are they cumulative? OP's find is for R-30... according to documentation from USDoE the recommended insulation level here in Vermont (zone 6) is between R-49 and R-60 in the attic. Does this mean I'd need two layers in my attic?

Thanks!

Yes, they are. Just make sure you don't put multiple layers of faced insulation (which would trap moisture).

R-values are cumulative, but keep in mind they also change with temperature. As it gets cooler, the R-value of fiberglass drops, while cellulose is pretty stable an can even increase.

Hi,

I have couple questions, I hope somebody can help out.

Do I need to order at the customer service desk, because I checked today and they did not have 48 packages of insulation at their usual spot.

Do I need to pay 60 $ delivery fee if I order at the desk. Can they deliver to store and I just pick it up myself?

Thanks.

PS: You can get 10% off coupons on eBay. I got 10 of them for 5$ shipped (plus got 8% bing CB).

anyone konw if we order online and have it delivered will that work with the $100.00 gift card offer?

Not sure why people can't just click the rebate form link in the OP and read it.

To receive your Gift Card:
1. Purchase $399 or more of qualifying Owens Corning or
Johns-Manville In-Stock Fiberglass Insulation at a Lowe’s Home
Improvement Warehouse between 9/25/09 and 10/25/09. Final
purchase amount must be $399 or more before taxes and after all
applicable discounts and/or instant rebates to qualify. Requests
must be postmarked by 11/25/09. - Claims postmarked after this
date will not be honored.

If that's not clear enough for you, call Lowe's. Why ask here and get opinions?

titewad said: Not sure why people can't just click the rebate form link in the OP and read it.

To receive your Gift Card:
1. Purchase $399 or more of qualifying Owens Corning or
Johns-Manville In-Stock Fiberglass Insulation at a Lowe’s Home
Improvement Warehouse between 9/25/09 and 10/25/09. Final
purchase amount must be $399 or more before taxes and after all
applicable discounts and/or instant rebates to qualify. Requests
must be postmarked by 11/25/09. - Claims postmarked after this
date will not be honored.

If that's not clear enough for you, call Lowe's. Why ask here and get opinions?



I am sorry I was having trouble downloading. Sorry to bother you.

RiceFama said: Inside the Post Office movers guide that expires 12/31/2009(Pub.75 vol.47) which you should be able to pick up at any P.O.in their lobby (or you can ask your friendly mail person to bring a couple movers guide for you) for free there is a 10% coupon for lowes that can be used immediately at lowes or Home Depot(competitors coupon)

Thank you, I will check ours for this, its a very small PO....

will this work if i ordered from lowes.com?

a great deal- I had some insulation blown into my 1960s ranch house in houston, tx- details fuzzy but they blew in about 1900 sq. ft of R-30 for 600-800 or so (my previous insulation was estimated at 0 to .5" worth- that's right, basically no insulation in houston- it was bad). I could have blown it in for cheaper (rolls were much more expensive) but the savings was minimal so I went with having a company blow it in- some things are worth the extra cost.

do you need professional to install or can be done manually

dp1 said: do you need professional to install or can be done manually
It depends if you like crawling around in a dusty dark area and can carefully avoid stepping through the dry wall while avoiding hitting your head against a roofing nail. For me, it's just part of home ownership, but if you have to ask I'm thinking I would get someone to insulate for you.

The idea is easy, the actual task can be a bit more difficult depending on your attic construction.

You seem to be very knowledgable, so please forgive me if my following 2 questions sound stupid: 1. Should i just lay the rolls over the old insulates(what's currently have in my attic) or do i need to remove the old ones first and then lay the new ones? 2. The amount of square feet i need to buy - should that be equal to the livable square footage of my house? For example, if the livable space is 1500 sq ft, then need to buy 1500 sq ft (about 48 rolls)? Thanks so much for your help!

jschuman said: dp1 said: do you need professional to install or can be done manually
It depends if you like crawling around in a dusty dark area and can carefully avoid stepping through the dry wall while avoiding hitting your head against a roofing nail. For me, it's just part of home ownership, but if you have to ask I'm thinking I would get someone to insulate for you.

The idea is easy, the actual task can be a bit more difficult depending on your attic construction.

niniss said: You seem to be very knowledgable, so please forgive me if my following 2 questions sound stupid: 1. Should i just lay the rolls over the old insulates(what's currently have in my attic) or do i need to remove the old ones first and then lay the new ones? 2. The amount of square feet i need to buy - should that be equal to the livable square footage of my house? For example, if the livable space is 1500 sq ft, then need to buy 1500 sq ft (about 48 rolls)? Thanks so much for your help!

jschuman said: dp1 said: do you need professional to install or can be done manually
It depends if you like crawling around in a dusty dark area and can carefully avoid stepping through the dry wall while avoiding hitting your head against a roofing nail. For me, it's just part of home ownership, but if you have to ask I'm thinking I would get someone to insulate for you.

The idea is easy, the actual task can be a bit more difficult depending on your attic construction.


1) Yes, this insulation can be laid directly over the existing insulation it's unfaced, which means it doesn't have a vapor barrier and will allow moisture in/out as necessary. If you were using faced insulation you couldn't do this as it would trap moisture between the vapor barriers and could potentially cause mold etc.

2) The amount of insulation you need is not based on your home size; rather on the size of the area where it needs to be placed. For example, if you are insulating your attic and the total surface area is 50x30 that would be 1500 sq ft of insulation required. If you are only trying to insulation a single wall that is 20x9 then you'd only need 180 sq ft of insulation (even less once you factor in the studs)

Well, I actually just blew in insulation in my parents house and then my house. My stepbrother actually went into their attic and blew it in for them as theirs was small, had existing insulation and in 1200 square feet, they blew in 39 bags or $390 worth and got the blower free. I have a 1800 square foot house under A/C and blew in 63 bags or $630 worth on insulation. We live in SW florida. Already the A/C seems to be running much less and curious of what it will do to the electric bill. We already both had r-19 rolled insulation in the attic already.

A couple tips to do it yourselfers. Everyone working on the project will need good masks. Try to do it first thing in the morning or at night that way it is not so hot in the attic! Also take a good piece of plywood in the attic to rest. It will blow about 1 bag every three minutes, so it takes some time to do 1000+ feet with decent coverage. I also covered by duct work which will help during the cooling season/heating season for the northerners!

Edit: also dont forget masks as well

Be careful on the government rebates. They are supposedly "Non-Refundable" rebates. That is they will only reduce your tax burden if you owe money after all deductions - and they will not become a tax credit for anything under $1,500 in owed taxes (i.e. you will not get money back if your tax burden is $1,000).

I was excited about this credit - considering replacing my furnace and water heater, but being single and usually getting money back - this tax credit is worthless. I would have to sell tons of stock to actually owe money. Not ready to do that just yet. Maybe next year.

Am I wrong about this taipan?

EDIT
I read into non-refundable credits further. I am very confused.

I originally thought that the credit is applied after your tax liability is calculated. If you were paid money - than the credit would be worthless. If you owed money - than the credit would reduce your liability down to zero (if you owed $1,500 or less). Anything above $1,500 than you would still owe the difference.

Now I read that it reduces your total tax owed (line 61 Form 1040). If this number is lower than your total Federal withholdings - you will be receiving the difference. Since I usually get money back - the additional $1,500 would be coming back to me entirely.

From the Energy Star website:
For example, say your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI) is $50,000, your tax liability is $10,000 (before you apply tax credits), and you've had $12,000 withheld from your paychecks. In this scenario you could claim up to $10,000 in tax credits. If you are eligible for the entire $1,500 tax credit, then your tax liability ($10,000) would be reduced to $8,500. Since you already had $12,000 withheld, you will get a tax refund of $3,500 ($12,000 - 8,5000 = $3,500).

If your AGI was $50,000, your tax liability $10,000 (before tax credits were applied), and you had $8,000 withheld from your pay checks, you would still have the ability to claim up to $10,000 in tax credits. If you are eligible for the entire $1,500 tax credit, your tax liability ($10,000)would be reduced to $8,500 and you would owe the government $500 at the end of the year ($8,000 already paid in taxes - $8,500 tax liability = $500 final payment).


taipan said: Just in case someone has already qualified for a portion of the $1500 total they are eligible to receive... As a person who already installed a new heat pump (non-geothermal) , my $1500 is already used up

EnergyStar.gov said: $1,500 is the maximum total amount that can be claimed for all products placed in service in 2009 & 2010 for most home improvements, EXCEPT for geothermal heat pumps, solar water heaters, solar panels, fuel cells, and small wind energy systems which are not subject to this cap, and are in effect through 2016.

Source for more rebate information

Another source for more rebate information...

Are fiberglass faced batts preferred over blow-in insulation ? I am kind of torn between which one to pick. I have heard that blowing in insulation from a good plywood platform or walkway is VERY easy compared to crawling in the attic spreading batts around. There is always the chance of going thru ceiling, besides dark dusty air and safety (hitting your head against roof nails).

Sometimes the extra $100 is not worth it. Is that the case here ?

Skipping 106 Messages...
Got mine today too! If you have any extra you can return them back w/o any problem.



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