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TRENDnet TEG-S5g (v1.0R) 10/100/1000Mbps Switch 5 x RJ45 1K MAC Address Table 104Kbytes Buffer Memory - Retail

Link $24.99 + Free Shipping*

$15 Rebate Exp. 3/17 Limit (2) two rebates per address


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Thanks op, got one.


This is a greenNet switch - low power (max power consumption is 3w from mfg. site). 5 year warranty. Dimensions: 150 x 105 x 33mm (5.9 x 4.1 x 1.3 in)


If it is greenNet, the I just have to give OP green - synchronicity and all...


Assuming you are using a regular old non-green rounter at 6 watts, and your electricity is $0.15 per kwh, whats the breakeven on this router?

I calculates ~$3 a year, so in 3 years it pays for itself. Anyone want to correct my math?


kinggofg said: Assuming you are using a regular old non-green rounter at 6 watts, and your electricity is $0.15 per kwh, whats the breakeven on this router?
This isn't a router. It's a switch.


efficacyman said: This is a greenNet switch - low power (max power consumption is 3w from mfg. site). 5 year warranty. Dimensions: 150 x 105 x 33mm (5.9 x 4.1 x 1.3 in)


Just wanted to point out that this comes with a 1 year warranty and not a 5 year warranty per the Newegg website. But then again, at this price, even if it goes bad after a year you won't feel too bad I guess.


kinggofg said: Assuming you are using a regular old non-green rounter at 6 watts, and your electricity is $0.15 per kwh, whats the breakeven on this router?

I calculates ~$3 a year, so in 3 years it pays for itself. Anyone want to correct my math?

I dont know why I'm spoonfeeding you...but Uhh $10 = (0.003 kW) * t* ($0.15kh/hr) ... solve for t. 22kilo hours.....or about 2.5 years...someone check me.


kinggofg said: I calculates ~$3 a year, so in 3 years it pays for itself. How does it pay for itself? You are paying for the router and you are paying for the electricity. Not sure what I am missing?


kringan said: kinggofg said: I calculates ~$3 a year, so in 3 years it pays for itself. How does it pay for itself? You are paying for the router and you are paying for the electricity. Not sure what I am missing?

kinggofg said: Assuming you are using a regular old non-green rounter at 6 watts, and your electricity is $0.15 per kwh, whats the breakeven on this router?

I calculates ~$3 a year, so in 3 years it pays for itself. Anyone want to correct my math?


Since he assumes you are using a 6 watt switch... By using a 3 watt switch, you are essentially saving money... and by 2.5 years the savings will pay off your new switch!


BillyJones said: Since he assumes you are using a 6 watt switch... By using a 3 watt switch, you are essentially saving money... and by 2.5 years the savings will pay off your new switch!

How about the fact you're upgrading from 10/100m to 10/100/1000m?

You could also calculate cost savings for saved time of transferring files... I'm sure it'll be less than 2.5 years.

IDK about you, but my time = money.

Also, does anyone know the difference between this one and the TEG-S50g? The case is a little different...

/edit/
S50g vs. S5g

Both support jumbo (9216) frames, product page @ Trendnet says 5yr warranty for both... only difference I can find is total power consumption (3w for 5g, while 3.67w for 50g) and total MAC table 1K for S5g vs 4K for S50g


They also use a different power adapter I think. The TEG-S5g uses a 5V DC, 2.5A while the TEG-S50g uses a 7.5V DC, 1A.

Newegg comparison.

Also, different temperature and humidity tolerances... Newegg says 1 year warranty but the manufacturer's website says 5.


The TEG-S5G has a plastic housing while the TEG-S50G has a metal, rack-mountable case.


If two devices were connected to this switch but the switch is connected to a 100baseT router, would the two devices still communicate at up to 1000Mbps or would it be slowed down to 100Mbps?


darksine said: If two devices were connected to this switch but the switch is connected to a 100baseT router, would the two devices still communicate at up to 1000Mbps or would it be slowed down to 100Mbps?

Both devices would communicate with each other at 1000mbps. What you're describing is exactly how you're supposed to set up your network. The only things hooked to your 100mbps router should be this switch and your cable/dsl modem. All your computers go to the 1000mbps switch.


Thanks. Looked into the throughput speeds of my DNS-323, doesn't seem like it can send out more than 20MB/s, guess I can deal with the 100baseT for now, was hoping to see more than a 2x performance by switching to gigabit.


darksine said: Thanks. Looked into the throughput speeds of my DNS-323, doesn't seem like it can send out more than 20MB/s, guess I can deal with the 100baseT for now, was hoping to see more than a 2x performance by switching to gigabit.
The reason for a switch like this is to speed up transfers within your home network. Suppose that you have a NAS (network-attached storage), or you have a computer that you use as a file server. Assuming that your computer and the server are relatively modern with gigabit ports and a fast enough processor & hard drive, you should be able to get a 2x to 3x increase in file transfer speed. As always, YMMV.

This will do NOTHING to speed your connection to the internet.


If I buy two of these and interconnect them, would that effectively give me an 8-port (out of total of 10 ports, two will be occupied) switch? What are the potential problems with that setup? Will it be easy to configure? Will my devices and routers/modem see each other easily?


minidanas said: If I buy two of these and interconnect them, would that effectively give me an 8-port (out of total of 10 ports, two will be occupied) switch? What are the potential problems with that setup? Will it be easy to configure? Will my devices and routers/modem see each other easily?

7 ports after you count the uplink to your router.
The chain would be router -> switch1 -> switch2
The downside is that everything on switch2 will share the single 1gbps connection to anything on switch1, and vise versa.
You'd be better off with a single 8pt switch.

edit: There's nothing to configure, switches in a typical home network can be considered more or less splitters from a layman point of view.


Question: I have both a gigabit router and a 5-port gigabit switch as I have the whole house wired. There isn't a problem with me using some of the gigabit ports on the router and some of the gigabit ports on the switch at the same time is there? I'm just trying to avoid the expense of an 8-port gigabit switch.


FYI: the $15 TEG-S5G rebate looks to be a pre-paid VISA ( 2 per household ) whereas the $10 TEG-S50G ( and other models ) is a one per model per household rebate check


I bought S50G in Dec last year. My transfer speed however is 22Mb/sec(~170 Mbps) between machines(internal HDD to another internal HDD). Not close to 1000Mbps as advertised. Copying between HDD within a machine is over ~75 Mb/sec. Its better than 100Mbps but there is something not kosher(I did use Cat6 cables as well with 3 ft length on both machines). I am going to go with DLink 2208 to see it that helps.


ComeOnNow said: I bought S50G in Dec last year. My transfer speed however is 22Mb/sec(~170 Mbps) between machines(internal HDD to another internal HDD). Not close to 1000Mbps as advertised. Copying between HDD within a machine is over ~75 Mb/sec. Its better than 100Mbps but there is something not kosher(I did use Cat6 cables as well with 3 ft length on both machines). I am going to go with DLink 2208 to see it that helps.

Have you tried using iperf or some other similar throughput tool? IMO, iperf is the defacto 'speed tester' on a LAN.


For optimal performance, do any changes need to be made to the "device properties" of the gigabit NIC drivers of each computer when going from a 100mbit switch to a 1gbit one? And can these changes still be made in a mixed environment of 100mbit and 1gbit clients?


I will be using this to extend my wnr2000 that I had got previously. Now, I am trying to find out if the ports on the back of the router are 100 or 1000? Does anyone have any info on the wnr2000 wired ports?

TIA.

Update: saw the manual, it says: LAN 10BASE-T or 100BASE-Tx, RJ-45 - I am guessing that the wired ports are 100Mbps max?


In for 2. Thanks OP!


poohbie said: For optimal performance, do any changes need to be made to the "device properties" of the gigabit NIC drivers of each computer when going from a 100mbit switch to a 1gbit one? And can these changes still be made in a mixed environment of 100mbit and 1gbit clients?

For optimal performance you'll want to enable Jumbo Frames on your NIC. The downside with that is you can't have Jumbo Frames Gig NIC talking to 100mbit NIC.

If you're in a Mixed 1GBit and 100Mbit environment you probably won't need to change anything.


Wineaux said: Question: I have both a gigabit router and a 5-port gigabit switch as I have the whole house wired. There isn't a problem with me using some of the gigabit ports on the router and some of the gigabit ports on the switch at the same time is there? I'm just trying to avoid the expense of an 8-port gigabit switch.
This will work just fine. Go ahead and do it.

Just keep one thing in mind... You will only have a gigabit link between the router and the switch, so if you have two computers on the router wanting to transfer files to two computers on the switch, the two computers will have one gigabit to split (about 500 megabits each). In practice, a computer will have a hard time keeping up with 500 megabits, so this is not really much of a limitation.


Great. I'm in.

Was using 2 NICS on 2 machines. 1st NIC (10/100) to the DSL Router, 2nd NIC (10/100/1000) crossover cabled with other machine.

I was always concerned about power usage of additional gig switch. Also adding another annoying transformer block to the power strip.

Well 1 out of 2 isn't bad.


Here's my limited experience:

10/100 router - ~10 MB
switch - ~20 MB

It also uses 1 watt at idle and while transferring files. I had my router connected via a 25ft cable. Two PC's were hooked up to the switch via a 3 feet and 1 feet cable; I think the 1 foot cable was Cat6 and everything else was Cat5e.

Had lots of little files so the speed went as high as 30 MB and dropped to as low as 15 MB. Default settings for Windows XP and Windows 7.


Great Deal. Thanks Op


cabby said: Was using 2 NICS on 2 machines. 1st NIC (10/100) to the DSL Router, 2nd NIC (10/100/1000) crossover cabled with other machine.

Most, if not all, modern equipment can do auto-crossover these days, so you really do not even need to own a crossover cable, much less use one (unless you have some old 10 megabit equipment lying around).


Harrkev said: cabby said: Was using 2 NICS on 2 machines. 1st NIC (10/100) to the DSL Router, 2nd NIC (10/100/1000) crossover cabled with other machine.

Most, if not all, modern equipment can do auto-crossover these days, so you really do not even need to own a crossover cable, much less use one (unless you have some old 10 megabit equipment lying around).

Most new equipment does do "auto-crossover", however most NIC's don't. He's going computer to computer with nothing in-between if I read that right. So he would generally need a crossover. Also, there is lots of fairly recent 100Mbps gear out there that doesn’t support it and not just old 10Mbps stuff.


ALL Gigabit switches and ALL gigabit network adapters do "auto-crossover", AKA Auto MDI/MDI-X, regardless of whether connecting to another gigabit capable device or lesser speed device.

Those previously trying to compare power consumption will be disappointed. They rate the switch itself, not the power adapter, as 3W. Note however that it comes with a ~ 13W power adapter while other switches some seem to assume would use 6W, also come with about 12W adapters and use pretty close to 3W too (rating for peak power-on not average full load power like the marketing departments are doing now that everyone is insane about a few pennies on an electric bill) but idle power isn't ramping down as much (somewhere between 0W and 3W difference depending on the age of what you contrast).

There was also a lot of other questionable info and/or advice dispersed in this topic but it is beyond the scope of a deal topic to cover all aspects of networking someone's home lan. Just know that if you want a gigabit switch the price is right and there's ample info on the internet to make your own choices of convenience, compatibility, performance, etc. At this price it's worth buying just to have a spare in case a switch you already had were to fail.


Some one else was asking about Gigabit Switches. There is the Netgear GS105E , 5 port Gigabit managed series. For about $60.00
Google Froogle


I finally did get this. For me the transfer rate is around 60MB/sec. Its better than S50G, which for me was capped at less than half of it.




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