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I am a frequent reader and contributor here, so I am aware of all the caveats with buying vs leasing. That is not what this thread is for. I want to lease because of my low mileage requirement and I get bored with my vehicle(s) after only a couple of years. Details below.

Current vehicle is a 2007 BMW X5 4.8 with almost every option available. I bought it in January 2011 as a CPO with 39k miles on it. It has 57k miles now. Great condition aside from two minor door dings (of which I got insurance money and diminished value checks for; the FWF way). I truly enjoy this vehicle but the fact that it's almost six years old (in-service date is 8/15/07) and my extended warranty runs out in August, I am a bit hesitant on keeping it much longer. No mechanical issues with it, yet. New radiator due to a cracked one about six months ago (covered under CPO).

Anyway, the lease "down payment" deal is that the dealership will match my down payment, up to $8500. In other words, if I put $8500 down towards cap-cost reduction, the dealer will give me a free $8500 cap-cost reduction on top of that. A total of $17,000. The payment on this Jeep (2012 SRT/8) is approximately 42% higher than my current payment. That is at their asking price, which is the same as a 2014 SRT/8 MSRP, which is insane. I plan on using that as some ammo when approaching them. It's also their last 2012 Jeep on the lot, and they have 2014's surrounding it. One would assume they would be eager to get rid of it.

They're asking $63k for the Jeep, and I plan on trying to get them down to approximately $54,000. A pretty big feat, if I do manage it. That puts the new net payment at approximately 18% (or $113) higher than my current one. Over the course of 36 months, that's about $4100. My loan on my X5 has between two and three years left on it. Yeah, I shouldn't have taken a 5-year note out on a 2.5 year old used car, money was cheap--shoot me. I need new tires on the X5 before winter, that's $1300. So just after tires, I'm already $1300 into my $4100 extra. Toss in a brake job and a few other things, and I'm damn-near spending that $4100 on the X5. Justification? Logic? Not sure if I'm tricking myself here.

Lease is 36 months. 12k miles per year, which is fine for me since I have a 10-mile round trip commute. Now, I am definitely a vehicle enthusiast and I get much enjoyment out of driving and maintaining my vehicle(s). In other words, in my low-responsibility life, I tend to splurge a bit on vehicles. Some will disagree with that, but to each their own--don't hate.


TL;DR: The ultimate question is, should I get into this SRT/8 to have the peace of mind of a warranty and "new-fast-car" enjoyment factor? The $4100 over 3 years seems worth it to me at the 30,000-foot level. However, laying out $8500+tax+dmv doesn't sound appealing on a lease. Questions, comments, concerns?

ETA: The money factor and residual that I used for my rough calculations were from a few hours of research earlier today. I was reading what others have posted in the last couple of months on various forums and the like. It seems like Chrysler no longer services leases and loans, but they outsource to Ally. From what I could find, Ally has a 46% residual for the 2012 Jeep SRT/8 and a .0362 money factor. These variables could change, without a doubt.

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But doesn't GAP just cover the difference between the amount due on the lease and the actual cash value of the vehicle?
G... (more)

taxmantoo (Apr. 21, 2013 @ 2:48p) |

Back seat moderator much?

RailroadTrack (Apr. 21, 2013 @ 4:47p) |

Has nothing to do with that, at all. In fact, I joked about it in my original post, about taking a 5-year note out on a ... (more)

jaytrader (Apr. 21, 2013 @ 8:25p) |

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crown vic

Squeezer99 said:   crown vic
Typical.

$8600 down on a lease is insane

You could get any number of nice new cars for $199 a month lease with 0 down , which is less than just the upfront payment

They should already be knocking $17k off msrp on a 2012 srt8.
In January the 4th poster here got 10375 off msrp and as a fwer you should do better

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71008

I doubt they'll give you the $8500 lease match plus take $9000 off msrp but give it a shot

The 2014 is supposed to be insane with launch control ,if you are determined to pay for a srt8 get the brand new one instead on a 0 down lease

Yeah...I'm leaning that way. But if I'm going to have that high of a lease payment, I'd rather spend a tad more on a X5 50i. I was also considering/pondering a 2014 SRT/8 from this same dealership. I'm heading in there Saturday (communication thus far has been via email) and will see what the guy will do. He claims to only have one SRT/8 at the stealership and that's the 2012.

Then again, I may hate the vehicle after a test drive and this entire thread might be for nothing. I guess I should have thought in more detail before only asking for the financial advice, and should have considered other options.

Thanks. Keep it coming.

PS: is it wrong of me to consider a Ford Focus ST? We rented one in Orlando this past October and I kind of liked it's go cart qualities. Then again, I am 6'4" and that might suck for an everyday driver.

Honestly, aside from the fact that the JGC SRT8 is stupid fast, there's not much of a reason to get out of an X5 4.8L to an SRT8 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The SRT8 is a fun ride, but the ride is harsh and it drinks a lot more fuel than even your V8 X5.

Op wants to get out of the x5 while its still under warranty which is a smart move

Those things have a tendency to rack up four figure repair bills after the warranty ended

jaytrader said:   They're asking $63k for the Jeep, and I plan on trying to get them down to approximately $54,000. A pretty big feat, if I do manage it. That puts the new net payment at approximately 18% (or $113) higher than my current one. Over the course of 36 months, that's about $4100. My loan on my X5 has between two and three years left on it. Yeah, I shouldn't have taken a 5-year note out on a 2.5 year old used car, money was cheap--shoot me. I need new tires on the X5 before winter, that's $1300. So just after tires, I'm already $1300 into my $4100 extra. Toss in a brake job and a few other things, and I'm damn-near spending that $4100 on the X5. Justification? Logic? Not sure if I'm tricking myself here.

You're comparing apples to oranges. Your payments over the next three years on the X5 would be $Y, your lease payments on the Jeep would be $Y+4100. At the end of those three years, however, you'll _own_ the X5, but will just be able to return the SRT/8.

Fundamentally, the right financial decision here is to unload the X5 and get something cheaper. Clearly, you look at cars as more than transport, however, so you need to decide whether the extra $ is worth it to you.

cestmoi123 said:   jaytrader said:   They're asking $63k for the Jeep, and I plan on trying to get them down to approximately $54,000. A pretty big feat, if I do manage it. That puts the new net payment at approximately 18% (or $113) higher than my current one. Over the course of 36 months, that's about $4100. My loan on my X5 has between two and three years left on it. Yeah, I shouldn't have taken a 5-year note out on a 2.5 year old used car, money was cheap--shoot me. I need new tires on the X5 before winter, that's $1300. So just after tires, I'm already $1300 into my $4100 extra. Toss in a brake job and a few other things, and I'm damn-near spending that $4100 on the X5. Justification? Logic? Not sure if I'm tricking myself here.

You're comparing apples to oranges. Your payments over the next three years on the X5 would be $Y, your lease payments on the Jeep would be $Y+4100. At the end of those three years, however, you'll _own_ the X5, but will just be able to return the SRT/8.

Fundamentally, the right financial decision here is to unload the X5 and get something cheaper. Clearly, you look at cars as more than transport, however, so you need to decide whether the extra $ is worth it to you.


Appreciate your thoughts. As I said earlier, the $4100 seems worth it to me from the 30,000-foot level. However, looking more closely at the deal overall, having to lay out probably $10k for a lease up front doesn't appeal to me very much. The deal has to be great in order for me to do something like that.

Regarding your "fundamental" point: I think that everyone has their price levels. What is cheaper? Is cheaper $400/month? Is cheaper a $2000 Honda? Is cheaper "as cheap as possible while still rolling?" See what I'm saying here? I certainly think you have a valid point, but from a "fundamental" perspective, I think you're being a bit vague. Is cheaper a $199 lease? Is cheaper leasing at all? Doesn't seem like, it from your perspective. Not taking your thoughts with a grain of salt, just playing devil's advocate.

As far as owning versus having to give back at the end of the three years, I'm totally fine with that. This X5 is actually the only vehicle that I've ever owned for more than two years. One of my E36 M3s got close, at about a year and eight months. As stated before, I am a vehicle enthusiast. I love driving and have zero problem splurging on vehicles. Other areas of my life are taken care of from a financial perspective, so it's just a choice that I make when buying a vehicle.

SUCKISSTAPLES said:   Op wants to get out of the x5 while its still under warranty which is a smart move

Those things have a tendency to rack up four figure repair bills after the warranty ended


That's kind of entirely my motivation here. The cap-cost reduction match from the dealer just heightens my motivation that much more. However, I don't want to get into a bad situation because I wanted a free $8500. In the grand scheme, that $8500 is barely a few months of rent.

I have leased 3 vehicles in the past and have done tons of research. The information I hear most often says "do not put any money down on a lease." I was thinking that until you said the dealer would match your $8500. If that is in fact true and the dealer isn't otherwise inflating the cost somewhere else to make a profit, you might consider this.

If you think about it, putting money down on a lease lowers the amount you pay per month by about the same amount. In other words, if I put $3600 down on a 36 month lease, I am basically lowering my monthly payment by $100. Why not go zero down and keep that money in the bank, then take out $100 every month to add to your payment? Yes you will pay a bit more because that $3600 will be added to the money you are borrowing and thus will have a finance charge attached to it, but it won't be much and you will have liquid money in the bank to use if needed.

I have also heard you should never lease last year's model, as you are paying for the depreciation on a lease, and last year's model has already taken a big hit on depreciation. The residual will also be much lower on last year's model than on this year's model. Perhaps you can negotiate that down through a much lower agreed upon price, but again, the residual will also be lower. It will be tough to narrow the gap between price and residual, especially on last year's model.

You should also be very concerned about a money factor of .0362. To convert a money factor to an interest rate, you multiply by 24. That equates to .8688, or 86%! However, you have probably typed it incorrectly, and it is probably more like a money factor of .00362, but that equates to an interest rate of 8.6%, probably the true interest rate, but also insane when interest rates on new and used cars are below 2% at PenFed.

jerhot said:   You should also be very concerned about a money factor of .0362. To convert a money factor to an interest rate, you multiply by 24. That equates to .8688, or 86%! However, you have probably typed it incorrectly, and it is probably more like a money factor of .00362, but that equates to an interest rate of 8.6%, probably the true interest rate, but also insane when interest rates on new and used cars are below 2% at PenFed.

He doesn't understand money factor versus interest rate. He actually means 3.62% interest rate.
He didn't get a response here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef9da33

36-month lease with 12K is 3.62% or .001508 (interest rate / 2400) and 46% residual
39-month lease with 12K is 3.62% or .001508 and 44% residual

Plug your figures in here:
http://www.cars.com/go/advice/financing/calc/loanLeaseCalc.jsp

As you said, you will still have sales tax, title, license, doc fee and probably the old acquisition fee.

I would NEVER put money down on a lease
If the dealer is willing to lower the cap cost by $8500, he should do it no matter whether or not you put money down. Sounds like they are playing around with the residual via this $8500 rebate, and by putting down $8500 and not knowing the residual on a 2012 you will be getting the short end of the stick.

I would look at 2014, residuals will be higher:
http://www.leasecompare.com/quick_lease_quotes.php?ModelYear=201...

Pretty crappy money factors.. I just got 1.9% on a 42-month Audi A5 Cabriolet lease.
Can get 72-month 2.2% APR on a purchase in my area.

I am clearly out of touch with some of the current vehicles. I couldn't understand how "fast" and $63K had anything to do with a Jeep. I did look up the car in question and it seems fun, but it also looks like a huge departure from Jeep's history.

Anyway, I don't like the payment comparison you are doing OP. Monthly payments should not be a factor when buying premium vehicles. I just cash refi-ed my toy and the payment is larger than one of my mortgages, but that's irrelevant. If I were making a purely financial decision, then I wouldn't own three cars.

Out of curiosity, have you evaluated other SUVs? I'm interested in hearing what drew you to the X5 and the Jeep and if other SUVs attracted or turned you off.

Props to Chrysler's marketing team for creating consumer demand for something that makes absolutely no sense

Do you want a light weight car that goes fast with strong cornering ability? Or a bloated top heavy SUV to haul people around?

They are mutually exclusive.

Why spend $55,000 on a Jeep ?

robby69 said:   jerhot said:   You should also be very concerned about a money factor of .0362. To convert a money factor to an interest rate, you multiply by 24. That equates to .8688, or 86%! However, you have probably typed it incorrectly, and it is probably more like a money factor of .00362, but that equates to an interest rate of 8.6%, probably the true interest rate, but also insane when interest rates on new and used cars are below 2% at PenFed.

He doesn't understand money factor versus interest rate. He actually means 3.62% interest rate.

Sure I do. I just copied and pasted from my excel file, and the way I'm doing the calc there, I use the rate and not the MF. Don't try to belittle me.

He didn't get a response here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef9da33

What does that have to do with anything? I just posted that question yesterday afternoon. I don't expect the guy to monitor that thread 24/7. Why berate me?

36-month lease with 12K is 3.62% or .001508 (interest rate / 2400) and 46% residual
39-month lease with 12K is 3.62% or .001508 and 44% residual

Plug your figures in here:
http://www.cars.com/go/advice/financing/calc/loanLeaseCalc.jsp
I have.

As you said, you will still have sales tax, title, license, doc fee and probably the old acquisition fee.

I would NEVER put money down on a lease
If the dealer is willing to lower the cap cost by $8500, he should do it no matter whether or not you put money down. Sounds like they are playing around with the residual via this $8500 rebate, and by putting down $8500 and not knowing the residual on a 2012 you will be getting the short end of the stick.[q/]I will find out the exact details and process tomorrow, and report back.

I would look at 2014, residuals will be higher:
http://www.leasecompare.com/quick_lease_quotes.php?ModelYear=201...

Pretty crappy money factors.. I just got 1.9% on a 42-month Audi A5 Cabriolet lease.
Can get 72-month 2.2% APR on a purchase in my area.
Alright, that's cool. What does that have to do with anything? Not sure what the condescending attitude is for...unless I am reading your reply in the completely wrong context?

jaytrader said:   Yeah...I'm leaning that way. But if I'm going to have that high of a lease payment, I'd rather spend a tad more on a X5 50i. I was also considering/pondering a 2014 SRT/8 from this same dealership. I'm heading in there Saturday (communication thus far has been via email) and will see what the guy will do. He claims to only have one SRT/8 at the stealership and that's the 2012.

Then again, I may hate the vehicle after a test drive and this entire thread might be for nothing. I guess I should have thought in more detail before only asking for the financial advice, and should have considered other options.

Thanks. Keep it coming.

PS: is it wrong of me to consider a Ford Focus ST? We rented one in Orlando this past October and I kind of liked it's go cart qualities. Then again, I am 6'4" and that might suck for an everyday driver.


Too bad you can't European Delivery an X5 that would reduce the monthly lease payment by a couple hundred. That said, I'd do the X5. The residual and MF are much better on the bimmer. There is a $750 loyalty discount and the resudial on it at 3 years/15k/year is 57%. Add 2% for 12k/yr or 3% for 10k/yr.

trekwars2000 said:   jaytrader said:   Yeah...I'm leaning that way. But if I'm going to have that high of a lease payment, I'd rather spend a tad more on a X5 50i. I was also considering/pondering a 2014 SRT/8 from this same dealership. I'm heading in there Saturday (communication thus far has been via email) and will see what the guy will do. He claims to only have one SRT/8 at the stealership and that's the 2012.

Then again, I may hate the vehicle after a test drive and this entire thread might be for nothing. I guess I should have thought in more detail before only asking for the financial advice, and should have considered other options.

Thanks. Keep it coming.

PS: is it wrong of me to consider a Ford Focus ST? We rented one in Orlando this past October and I kind of liked it's go cart qualities. Then again, I am 6'4" and that might suck for an everyday driver.


Too bad you can't European Delivery an X5 that would reduce the monthly lease payment by a couple hundred. That said, I'd do the X5. The residual and MF are much better on the bimmer. There is a $750 loyalty discount and the resudial on it at 3 years/15k/year is 57%. Add 2% for 12k/yr or 3% for 10k/yr.

Who says I can't do ED? Trust me, I was |_| that close to doing ED on a new M5.

Fiance would want to burn me at the stake though.

You can't ED a X3/5 as they are built in SC. That is what I meant.

If you can find a dealer to sell you an ED car (it'd be a bit harder on a M5) for $500-750 over ED invoice your already getting the car 10K below US MSRP on your lease. Couple that with a 10k mile per year low mileage lease and you can get residuals close to 70% and monthly payments on a lease on of a 70-80K car of under $700.

jaytrader said:   Not sure what the condescending attitude is for...unless I am reading your reply in the completely wrong context?

Not really "trying" to berate you:

1) You listed in your original post that .0362 was the MF. (even if you meant an interest rate of 3.62%, I can only go on what you actually post)

2) I gave you the MF and residuals your were looking for from the post your made on the other forum. Thought I was being helpful.

3) Recommended never putting money down on a lease. As a matter of fact, I roll everything into the lease except for the first payment. Usually better to lease the latest model car year due to residuals. I have been leasing personal cars for the past 30-years, every 36 months, so even though I still get "screwed" by the dealer, I like to think I get kissed also.
Commented that 3.62% rate is really high in this interest rate environment, and gave you an example of the rate I got on even a longer lease than yours. It was intended that you may want to shop that rate.

Op you asked what "alternative " to consider

Well since you like cars and are used to having a new one every few years it seems a lease is right for you

I don't think you're going to get this dealer to give you the $8500 do match plus $9000 off msrp. But as far as alternatives I'd suggest the new fiat 500e electric which will be leasing in CA for $199 a month (you can always have a buddy buy it if you're not in Ca or rent and address ) . The gas savings each month will make the lease essentially free, so this is the "financially smart " type of car I would consider , taking into account you like new cars with some type of personality beyond a boring transportation appliance. Of course you don't get much more opposite than a jeep srt8 and a fiat 500e . But sometimes change is good

robby69 said:   jaytrader said:   Not sure what the condescending attitude is for...unless I am reading your reply in the completely wrong context?

Not really "trying" to berate you:
So are you saying that you're blatantly scorning me?

1) You listed in your original post that .0362 was the MF. (even if you meant an interest rate of 3.62%, I can only go on what you actually post)
I understand your point, but based on your initial reply, you understood what I meant. Regardless, your point has been noted and please forgive me for doing a quick copy and paste.

2) I gave you the MF and residuals your were looking for from the post your made on the other forum. Thought I was being helpful.
I saw that thread. As stated in my OP, I did some research. Clearly I read that thread, given I posted in it.

3) Recommended never putting money down on a lease. As a matter of fact, I roll everything into the lease except for the first payment. Usually better to lease the latest model car year due to residuals. I have been leasing personal cars for the past 30-years, every 36 months, so even though I still get "screwed" by the dealer, I like to think I get kissed also.
Commented that 3.62% rate is really high in this interest rate environment, and gave you an example of the rate I got on even a longer lease than yours. It was intended that you may want to shop that rate.
As I also said in my OP, the MF and residuals could certainly change. They were based off of my research. They weren't/aren't hard numbers.

To add to the entire thread: thanks again for all of your opinions. I've decided to go with a VW GTI. Cheap, still maintains some fun-factor, and can fit my 6'4" body decently.

jaytrader said:   To add to the entire thread: thanks again for all of your opinions. I've decided to go with a VW GTI. Cheap, still maintains some fun-factor, and can fit my 6'4" body decently.

Nice. I was planning a trip to Shanghai myself. But I decided on take-out a Panda Express down the street.

I was going to post this:

"Hard to give FWF advice on a massivly un-FWF like decision.

And 55K on a chrysler, lol. Even if I was balls out rich I would laugh at that idea out of principle.
"



But I see you kinda came to your senses...

jaytrader said:   To add to the entire thread: thanks again for all of your opinions. I've decided to go with a VW GTI. Cheap, still maintains some fun-factor, and can fit my 6'4" body decently.

Much nicer to drive and those things can haul shit like an SUV, you will be suprised.

germanpope said:   Nice. I was planning a trip to Shanghai myself. But I decided on take-out a Panda Express down the street
more like Mexico or Somalia

I came across this Lexus one payment lease which might be up your alley

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/fwfinance/3091B6FA-7392-48D4-A6F6-9FF5C5CB43BA-2485-00000353423FAFF6_zps48983089.jpg

Pay the $6000 upfront and you get 18 months of usage , no monthly payments , then when you get tired of it as you usually do around the 18 month mark , you can move on to your next cool car

Bought the GTI, picking it up Monday afternoon. Good riddance to the ticking time bomb that was my X5. I'll miss it. I'll have another one someday, maybe. Thanks for all the replies.

SUCKISSTAPLES said:   I came across this Lexus one payment lease which might be up your alley

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/fwfinance/3091B6FA-7392-4...

Pay the $6000 upfront and you get 18 months of usage , no monthly payments , then when you get tired of it as you usually do around the 18 month mark , you can move on to your next cool car


What happens if you wreck it on the way home from the dealership?

SUCKISSTAPLES said:   $8600 down on a lease is insane I can get a Maserati with less down.

Please delete this thread. No value for finanace forum.

letsmakeasteal said:   Please delete this thread. No value for finanace forum.


wtf is finanance?

jaytrader said:   Bought the GTI, picking it up Monday afternoon. Good riddance to the ticking time bomb that was my X5. I'll miss it. I'll have another one someday, maybe. Thanks for all the replies.

LOL - I don't know that the X5 was a "ticking time bomb". Maybe the fact that you were still going to have a car payment on a 6 year prior CPOed bimmer was more of the issue.

We have a paid-off 7 year old 7 series with 75k miles and have to put some money into it every so often. Right now it needs new front upper control arms that will set us back between $800-1100 - we may even spring for a new set of tires b/c the ones we have a 5 years old and are beginning to show signs of dry rot and one of the rears needs replaced anyway; this would set us back another $950-1200. We have a good Euro import indy mechanic that does the work for us at about 30-50% less than the dealership. Its certainly much cheaper than a monthly car payment and we are still driving a "$90000 car".

But I do certainly understand the want to have a new car. I go through that about every 9-12 months and my wife has to put up with it and talk me out of it. In fact, just yesterday we went and looked at the Avalon Limited vs Buick LaCrosse Touring vs Lincoln MKZ Hybrid. It does help that I rent cars often for work and often end up in very nice vehicles. Recently I have driven the QX56, M37, 528i, X3, X5 and Yukon Denali (Yukon was the nicest BTW). I'm not sure if this helps or hurts my want to get a new car...

However, that said, this is the finance forum. It would be tough to support anything that you wouldn't be paying cash for. The number one reason we are keeping the 7 and repairing it vs buying a new Avalon (or whatever) is the fact that $2000-$4000 per year is still MUCH cheaper than a Avalon with a car payment. When we save up enough money to buy an Avalon with cash then we might do it, but until then (or the 7 getting the dreaded wheep-hole repair) we will keep the 7 year old car.

taxmantoo said:   SUCKISSTAPLES said:   I came across this Lexus one payment lease which might be up your alley

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/fwfinance/3091B6FA-7392-4...

Pay the $6000 upfront and you get 18 months of usage , no monthly payments , then when you get tired of it as you usually do around the 18 month mark , you can move on to your next cool car


What happens if you wreck it on the way home from the dealership?


I believe that is one of the biggest arguments on why NOT to put anything down on the lease. While I do not have experience with every leasing company, BMWFS includes GAP coverage on all their leases for this exact reason.

trekwars2000 said:   taxmantoo said:   
What happens if you wreck it on the way home from the dealership?


I believe that is one of the biggest arguments on why NOT to put anything down on the lease. While I do not have experience with every leasing company, BMWFS includes GAP coverage on all their leases for this exact reason.


But doesn't GAP just cover the difference between the amount due on the lease and the actual cash value of the vehicle?
GAP doesn't protect your down payment, does it?

letsmakeasteal said:   Please delete this thread. No value for finanace forum.

Back seat moderator much?

trekwars2000 said:   jaytrader said:   Bought the GTI, picking it up Monday afternoon. Good riddance to the ticking time bomb that was my X5. I'll miss it. I'll have another one someday, maybe. Thanks for all the replies.

LOL - I don't know that the X5 was a "ticking time bomb". Maybe the fact that you were still going to have a car payment on a 6 year prior CPOed bimmer was more of the issue.


Has nothing to do with that, at all. In fact, I joked about it in my original post, about taking a 5-year note out on a used vehicle.

It has to do with the fact that the X5 would need $3000 within a few months worth of maintenance, among many other things, but that is the most immediate sour taste. That's just for the normal wear and tear items. Example: tires for the X5 are about $1200-$1300. Tires for the GTI are $700. I'd rather toss that $3000 towards something new with a warranty and free maintenance. And, this is my second X5, these things aren't build for the long haul. Sure, not every single one is going to die before 100k miles, but the majority have high repair bills prior to said 100k mark.

This doesn't mean I trade in my vehicles every time a large maintenance bill comes up. It just means that I'm weighing the pros and cons, and I felt that the cons of the X5 outweighed the pros. It was time to move on from the 6-year-old almost warranty-less inevitable money pit that was the X5.

It seems like you're trying to defend BMW or something. There's no need. I am a BMW fanatic at heart. This X5 I just traded in was my fifth. Two X5s and three E36s (two of which were M3s). I love BMW, and I will be back. I just needed a back-to-basics change.



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