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Try credit union or ethnic banks (Chinese, Korean, etc.) if you are in CA or NY, or better yet, take on some investors and pay cash, then refinance to pay them back.


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skeer27 said:wiredspider said:Sheriff sales are typically cash purchases...if you don't have 20%, I'm not sure how you are going to buy.

Actually I did a Sheriff Sale here already. You need 10% day of the auction and have the mortgage 30 days after auction

Mark

my sheriff does not allow any entry into the property before transfer of title...thus, the lending institution would have to be comfortable with a drive-by appraisal...plus, you'd have to procure insurance against a property you know little about and dont own.

is your process different? you've actually gotten a mortgage for a sheriff's sale property?


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solarUS said:skeer27 said:wiredspider said:Sheriff sales are typically cash purchases...if you don't have 20%, I'm not sure how you are going to buy.

Actually I did a Sheriff Sale here already. You need 10% day of the auction and have the mortgage 30 days after auction

Mark

my sheriff does not allow any entry into the property before transfer of title...thus, the lending institution would have to be comfortable with a drive-by appraisal...plus, you'd have to procure insurance against a property you know little about and dont own.

is your process different? you've actually gotten a mortgage for a sheriff's sale property?

Yes back in 2005 I purchased a condo at a sheriff sale for 72,600. I put my 10% down at the auction and then used National City Bank to mortgage the rest of the loan ~65000. I had to pay PMI(because only 10% was put down on the property), but other than that I had no problems. I knew it was going to be a flip so interest rate(The rate was 7%) and PMI didn't matter that much to me. In Ohio, I had 30 days to pay after sale was recorded or be in contempt of court and potential lose my 10% down. It was my understanding that I didn't need insurance until I actually paid for the property(the mortgage came through).

So I have found a new place I want to buy. Each bank I speak with wants 20% down(the 10% at the sheriff sale counts as half) and a couple banks have huge origination fees for an investement property(3%). Each bank basically said that they would accept the county apprasial as a baseline, but to be careful if it were to go for much more than the appraised price. This never concerned me because I was only willing to pay $60,000 on a unit appraised at $78,000

Mark

Edit: for my terrible spelling

Message edited by: skeer27 on 2009-11-11 08:57:48 CST
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I would say this is a breakeven deal for $65K. Reason:

65,000 / 100 (100-month rule) + 135 (HOA Fee) = 785 > 750 (rent).

Also Condo appreciates much slower.

However, it also depends on your locality.

skeer27 said:Looking for a little heading check from you guys. This is the first time I am considering being a landlord.

Property Type: Condo 2BR 2Bath 1050ft
Location: Right next to an Air Force Base and a University
Typical Rent in the Area: $750 (possible higher for double occupency)
Association Fees: $135
Taxes: ~$1200 a year

Situation: Sheriff sale is coming up in January. Opening bid is $52,000. The judgement is for $44,000 from the first(and only) mortgage holder. So the property should be up for grabs at the auction. I would not pay more than $65,000
Two liens against the property: mechanics at $5,200 and condo association at $1,400 (which should be wiped out at the auction if I am not mistaken).

My biggest problem is that every bank I talk to wants 20% down and a 3% origination fee + closing costs.

First, do the numbers look sound? I feel they do.
Second, does anybody have any recommendations on how to lower the initial costs? I can cover it, but it leaves me really thin on my emergency fund.

Thanks in advance
Mark


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Does anybody know any lenders that do construction loans in NY/NJ area?


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Im thinking about buying a house as a rental property in FL. My father could manage it, so that is not a problem. It seems that houses i am looking at are around 70K, and the going rent for a 3br, 2bath is about 700-750. Is it wiser to buy a house cash, or pull a mortgage and maybe only put down 25-50%? From my math, i would make a little profit after taxes and everything is said and done. Im looking at this as a long term investmetn, and possibly a house I will move to in about 5-10 years.


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While we can't get the 0% interest US Treasury lends to banks/funds for carry trade, getting 5% interest (locked) long term is pretty good, so I would say borrow the money, and use the extra cash to buy one more property (since management does not seem to be an issue for you).


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question for the commercial borrowers/lenders on this site. I am looking at a 6 family residential commercial property. I understand the banks want to calculate the debt service coverage ratio (dscr). The questions is what is the "gross rent" is this the current rents or the rents if all unit were rent.

Question example: 6 units x 1000 = 6K a month and then the vacancy rate against this OR 4 out of 6 units x 1000 = 4K and then the vacancy rate against this.


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Message edited by: ck90211 on 2009-11-17 17:35:16 CST
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Planning to buy a property with a friend under "Tenants in common" clause. My friend is planning to live there and it will be my friend's primary residence.
So will we qualify for the mortgage loan as a primary residence? Or does it count as an investment loan?
I have a primary residence on my own.
Also, would we partially/fully eligible for the homebuyers tax credit?


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quick question:
I bought 4 investment houses cash and I am doing some repairs on them. I have one of them rented, and I am trying to finish the other 3.
Does anybody know a bank in FL where I can do a cash out for one or more of my properties?
I am running out of money.


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You can have multiple "primary" residential loans concurrently with 1 bank, but bank will want to know why. For instance, my job requires living in state A and B, I am letting my children/parents living in 1 of the houses, or I am buying a new home now and possibly selling the older one soon, etc...

Or you can just get your new mortgage from another bank (ones not holding the note on your current primary residence), that way, possibly less explaining to do. But you still have to have enough income/down to cover.

My current bank does not have a hard cap on how many "primary" residences I can have, as long as I can qualify/afford.


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to answer my own question from above for other who might want to know.

the larger banks are requiring the sched -e docs and at least one was willing to use the REOS/accountant type report, but wanted the DSCR to be like 1.5 or above and did not count the empty units (this one was because i had business with them already).

the smaller local banks were willing to go with out the sched-3 and count the vacant rooms, but want 25-30% down and wanted personal note.


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The more verifiable, high quality docs they get from you on the front end, the easier it is for them to package and resell your loan to next bank/institution, and higher the prices.


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