My wife and I need to start paying down our credit cards.... I'll list my balances, the interest rates and the current minimum payments. All cards are currently maxed.
$15,000 - 3.9% lifetime - $300 per month $12,300 - 17.99% - ~$350 per month $8,700 - 20.99% - ~$240 per month $7,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $150 per month $5,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $75 per month
What is the best plan of attack for successfully paying these cards down? We do not own a home and our credit is not too good because of the high balances on all of the cards, so the idea of moving the high interest balances elsewhere I don't think is possible, unless anyone has any ideas on that front.
Please any help or advice any of you have would be great, thanks in advance.
I have edited this to add: There's a roughly 10% chance that I could get my parents, who are pretty well off, to help us by taking out a loan for us... be it a HELOC or other some such method of consolidating the debt into one payment at a lower interest rate... thoughts on that, if that is the best option here, are also appreciated.
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posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 2:33p
mst3k
Senior Member
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 2:45p
I guess I'll state the obvious one...
Absolutely make the minimum payments (at least) on all of the cards. Not much is worse than universal default. Then with whatever money you have left attack the highest rate first until it is gone and then start on the next one.
There are two different strategies that you will see proposed in the FW Finance forum. Both have their merits so I will breifly discuss each one and the reasoning behind it.
Strategy 1: Pay at least the minimum due on each card every month. Put all additional money towards the card with the highest balance to pay it down. When that card is paid off, go after the next highest rate card.
Strategy 2: Pay the minimum due on each card every month. Put the remaining money towards the card with the lowest balance. When it is paid off, go after the next one.
I must say, from a financial standpoint, strategy 1 is far superior. You will pay less interest and, as a result, pay the balances down more quickly. Strategy 2 is better for people with more smaller debts to whom reducing the number of maxed out cards is going to be a comfort.
These strategies are easy (not to mention obvious, but I digress...). What you really need to do is look at your current situation, income, and expenses to understand why you owe almost $50K on credit cards. If your debt is the result of a medical emergency, national disaster, I wouldn't worry to much about it as long as it is a one-time event and was out of your control. But, if you are just living it up and spending beyond your means you really need to evaluate your lifestyle and resolve your situation before it gets out of control. There are lots of topics in this forum devoted to saving and budgeting that would help. Whatever your situation is, I wish you luck!
<edit>To address your second question re: parents financing your debt, that is probably a terrible idea. If you are spending beyond your means, you will end up spending whatever they borrow for you as well. All of a sudden, all your cards are maxed out and you owe your parents money. Just think of every holiday/etc when your parents bring up that loan. From what I hear, borrowing money from relatives really sucks. Unless you are very disciplined and have a great relationship with your family, stay far away from this.
mike841
New Member
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 2:49p
Thanks for the replies so far... I am obviously new here but have been taking a look around to read as much as possible before posting this topic, but wanted to post about my situation in particular for more specific advice - The debt resulted mostly from a medical situation and from our wedding, I would say about 80% of it was due to those two things - we do not live beyond our means and are quite frugal when it comes to spending on things like clothing and meals.
1. Call up the two CC companies that are charging you the double digit rates and try and get them to lower the interest rates.
2. If the rates are still high open up more credit cards to do zero % no fees balance transfer to. Citi and Discover have a lot of cards that offer zero % no fees for 12 months BT.
mike841
New Member
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 2:57p
Hello Hypersion thank you for the reply - We have a Citi and Discover card, that is the card the 0% until 7/07 is currently on - due to our high balance to credit limit ratio we are unable to open more credit card accounts at 0% at the time - also the two cards at high balances are with Bank of America - we have tried everything to get them to lower the interest rate and they wont budge, saying it's based on our current credit score... so we're kind of screwed in that regard.
mike841 said: Thanks for the replies so far... I am obviously new here but have been taking a look around to read as much as possible before posting this topic, but wanted to post about my situation in particular for more specific advice - The debt resulted mostly from a medical situation and from our wedding, I would say about 80% of it was due to those two things - we do not live beyond our means and are quite frugal when it comes to spending on things like clothing and meals. Congrats on the recent married and sorry about the medical stuff. Those doctor/hospital bills can be insane.
If your parents can get a good rate on a line or credit, it could save you a significant amount of money (and possibly bring your credit score up which would help getting 0% offers) if you put $10 to $20K of the highest rate debt onto the LOC while you get things straightened out.
It still makes sense to do some serious budgetting. Figure out your monthly income and all your expenses (including minimum payments on your cards). You might be surprised to see where the money is going and where you can save money.
mike841 said: Hello Hypersion thank you for the reply - We have a Citi and Discover card, that is the card the 0% until 7/07 is currently on - due to our high balance to credit limit ratio we are unable to open more credit card accounts at 0% at the time - also the two cards at high balances are with Bank of America - we have tried everything to get them to lower the interest rate and they wont budge, saying it's based on our current credit score... so we're kind of screwed in that regard. There are a lot of people on FW who juggle BTs between spouses. Remove AUs on each card (so, for example, your credit card with a huge balance doesn't show up anymore on your wife's credit score) and you may be able to bring one or both of your scores up enough to get some better cards. 20% of that $20K debt is $4,000 so you are going to be paying some pretty serious interest until you can lower your rates. I'd say that this would justify signing up for a service that monitors your credit (they cost less than $15 a month). Those, especially in conjuction with FWF and sites like creditboards can really help you improve your credit score so that you can get cards with lower interest rates.
tcope
Senior Member
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 3:53p
mike841 said: $15,000 - 3.9% lifetime - $300 per month $12,300 - 17.99% - ~$350 per month $8,700 - 20.99% - ~$240 per month $7,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $150 per month $5,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $75 per month
First I'm going to sound a little mean... if you could not afford to spend big on your wedding, you should not have. But that is water under the bridge. But this now means you need to pay the price for your actions and buckle down. OK, I'm off the soap box.
Paying min. on all except the highest interest card is _not_ usually the way to go. If this card also has the highest balance, the min you will pay on a low interest rate card will just be drawn out for such a long time, you'll end up paying more. Of course, you _always_ need to consider the amount owed. Here is what you need to keep in mind... if you can get rid of a card quickly, you can then apply that min. payment to another card. It's called the snowball effect. Whereas if you pay the min. on all but the highest balance card, you will never be able to consolidate those min. payments and "attack" one card.
First, call BOA again and eventually speak to a supervisor. If you don't, they won't lower your rate. You need to _push_ hard but be nice.
In your specific case, I'd pay the 20.99% first. It has the lowest balance and the highest rate. In order to pay this down, you need to cut corners _everywhere_ else. Drop that high speed Internet access down to $10 dial-up. Drop that cable service all together. Only eat out 1-2 times a month and then do it cheaply. If you don't ATTACK these debts, you will just be throwing away even more money then your throwing away now! You don't want to take a year to pay off this amount. If needed, someone needs to get a part time job on the side. Also, this will not work _UNLESS_ once you paid off one card, you take the money you were applying to that card and add it to paying off the next card! Go back and read that last sentence again.
I'm guessing those 0% are going to change to a variable rate after the 0%. BOA (and others) were sending those deals out like candy as people thought they were great. Well, I have news... rate are _only_ going to go up! I'm betting they turn into 17%-20% rate cards when they become due.
If the 0% cards are not higher by the time you pay off the 20.99% card, move to the 17.99% card. But if they have increased by then, then you may want to move to the $5,000 card next and _aggressively_ pay it off.
Sit down and draw up a plan on what you can cut out in order to pay those cards down. Then apply all that money to the cards. Write down what amounts you're going to pay and once one card is paid off, apply all of that _additional_ money to the next card.
What you might also want to do is to add up all the interest you're paying monthly and pin it up on the fridge. Also, multiply that number by 12 months and write it on that paper as well. This way you will be reminded _exactly_ how much your paying to your friendly bank.
psychtobe
Senior Member - 2K
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 4:45p
mike841 said: Thanks for the replies so far... I am obviously new here but have been taking a look around to read as much as possible before posting this topic, but wanted to post about my situation in particular for more specific advice - The debt resulted mostly from a medical situation and from our wedding, I would say about 80% of it was due to those two things - we do not live beyond our means ...
OP, how much extra are you able to pay per month? Also, what are the credit limits on the cards you have? This info would help us out in formulating a strategy for you.
The thread that "Poo" reference above will really tell you everything you need to know to get out of this debt. I'm sure it seems like a huge weight on you, but if you're dedicated to a solid plan you'll be able to get through it and move on to accomplish other financial goals because you will have developed discipline.
Here's my first couple of suggestions:
1) Call those high rate card co's and see if they'll reduce your rate. They may or may not do it depending on on your credit (you said it's not good)...but it absolutely can't hurt to ask!
2) Get as many of the cards down to <50% of their credit limit--this will help to raise your FICO and eventually enable you to get some 0%/2.9%, etc BT offers. Conventional wisdom says to pay the highest rate card first, but from a FICO standpoint it makes sense to get those balances below 50% of your CL ASAP.
EDIT: In the future, when you have "medical situations" don't pay for them on your credit card--it's a lot easier to work with hospitals, etc than it is to work with MBNA, Bank of America, etc. Medical bills can be paid as you can...as long as you make some sort of payment they won't hassle you too much. I had my wisdom teeth removed in college--when I had NO MONEY, I was able to pay $10/month until I was able to pay it off.
psychtobe said: mike841 said: Thanks for the replies so far... I am obviously new here but have been taking a look around to read as much as possible before posting this topic, but wanted to post about my situation in particular for more specific advice - The debt resulted mostly from a medical situation and from our wedding, I would say about 80% of it was due to those two things - we do not live beyond our means ... apparently the wedding was beyond your means. Since when did spending within means become normal and fashionable?
$15,000 - 3.9% lifetime - $300 per month $12,300 - 17.99% - ~$350 per month $8,700 - 20.99% - ~$240 per month $7,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $150 per month $5,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $75 per month
Currently u're paying $1115 / month
I'll say Pay min payment for both 0% and 3.9% card, let say $150 total Pay int only on 17.99%, about $185/month Pay the rest of the $1115, about $780 towards 20.99%. In about 13 months, you should be able to pay off this one. After that, pay off the next highest % card until paid off.
I am encouraged about your wiilingness to seek help. The big key to getting this under control is not to be in denial about the seriousness of this debt. And as has been said to be able to give up what you need to get your finances under control. What about those starbucks 3.00 coffees? Are you tracking your finances with Quicken, you would be suprised at where the money goes. Watchout though about what you tell the credit card companys, I read in a another thread where a guy sought help from them and a debt advisor to lower his interest rate and the company put negative info in his credit file.
EricGo
Senior Member - 2K
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 5:56p
Water Bread Condoms Second job for each of you
CreditGuy
Senior Member
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 6:19p
Check out the terms of those 0% cards. Often you can make additional 0% BTs during the promo period without fee. So it MIGHT make sense to make additional BTs from those cards after you've made payments to them. It's revolving credit after all--you can take the money out again once you put it in. Be careful of the fees, of course.
pay the minimums on each card for say 6 months.. and use the extra moneys to build up some kind of emergency fund... then you can start on paying down the smallest balance first.. once thats done you can use the freed up cash flow to make larger payments on the next smallest balance.. ..
its important when your maxed out like this to try to develop an emergency fund.. and then some free cash flow..
tcope
Senior Member
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 9:38p
Derffie said: pay the minimums on each card for say. months.. and use the extra moneys to build up some kind of emergency fund... then you can start on paying down the smallest balance first.. Huh? That makes _no_ sense.
Why put money in the bank _and_ piss away money on interest? On the other hand, the OP could take the money you suggest putting in the bank and pay it toward the credit cards so they don't get raped by the interest. If an "emergency" comes up, just use the credit cards. You're no worse for wear.
Hello Hypersion thank you for the reply - We have a Citi and Discover card, that is the card the 0% until 7/07 is currently on - due to our high balance to credit limit ratio we are unable to open more credit card accounts at 0% at the time - also the two cards at high balances are with Bank of America - we have tried everything to get them to lower the interest rate and they wont budge, saying it's based on our current credit score... so we're kind of screwed in that regard.
If you got the card balances below 50% on all of the cards, you probably could get more credit and 0% offers..assuming you dont have any other derogs..Maybe do a FW "get out of debt AOR"...and use your spouce's credit profile also to get things paid.
xx747xx
New Member
posted: Aug. 26, 2006 @ 10:09p
If you or your wife has a car payment, you could consider trading down to a vehicle without a payment.
if you credit sucks just file BK, majority of not all will be wiped out since it's all medical. keep the lowest balance card open so you can rebuild your credit after you file bk. ch.7 should do, credit / score will be crap for first year then it will rebound. let this be a lesson to you not to spend so much. good luck
EricGo said: Water Bread Condoms Second job for each of you
I'd add
Multivitamin
To prevent scurvy, rickets and other medical conditions while on the bread/water diet.
Ounce of prevention and all that.
mike841
New Member
posted: Aug. 27, 2006 @ 12:37a
fvfquaker said: if you credit sucks just file BK, majority of not all will be wiped out since it's all medical. keep the lowest balance card open so you can rebuild your credit after you file bk. ch.7 should do, credit / score will be crap for first year then it will rebound. let this be a lesson to you not to spend so much. good luck
First let me say thank you very much to everyone has responded thusfar - I am a first time member of this forum and to get such good advice up to this point is very welcoming - as for the one-liner responses and the not-so-helpful, that's just the internet being the internet and kudos to upping your post count by 1.
I have thought about BK... my parents actually went through BK twice, and they now have come out of it very well (through a combination of my father landing and advancing in a great job and keen spending habits), so while this option is not attractive on the outside, it's certainly something we wont at the very least consider. I may be wrong, but I thought I read that recently BK has changed to where you can't just use it to come out from under debt like this (debt where you have the means with which to make minimum payments or slightly more) - I dont know the specs on BK so if this is incorrect, please correct me.
The HELOC idea from the parents may be a good idea as well, significantly reducing minimum monthly payment (obviously I'd be making much more than a minimum payment each month to satisfy the debt sooner than the lengthy HELOC repayment requirements i've seen <15 yr+ again correct me if wrong here> - this is more of a 'saving face' issue, as I have trouble asking my parents to bail us out but they would understand given the circumstances.
Again we do not live beyond our means, we do not go out and eat fancy meals every night (or hardly ever for that matter), we try to save money wherever possible via methods like carpooling, leftovers, etc. - the wedding our parents paid for about 85% of, but we put some expenses on the credit cards - the medical thing was at the time seemingly beyond our control, hindsight however is 20/20 as always.
Our vehicle loans are both up in July 08 - we have thought about consolidating but we both are at 3.49% on our loans and being so close, think sticking it out and then ridding ourselves of that payment might work out for the better. I can get back shortly regarding our monthly income/budget right now I am tired and need sleep.
Again many thanks to the forum and keep the suggestions/information coming (especially on the BK/HELOC solutions) - cheers.
And you mention being able to make the minimum payments "maybe slightly more" but you haven't specified how much...this would be helpful for those of us trying to point you in the right direction.
You may want to check out a book(total money makeover + radio show) by this guy, he's a little bit hokey but has sound advice on getting out of debt and changing your lifestyle. Much of paying off debt and understanding how money works is budgeting and psychological. For example paying off the smaller credit cards, while paying your minimums on others, may help you build what he calls the snowball. You kill these cards and cancel them, building momentum.
Good luck with this, my wife and I went through this and when we told our friends that we wanted to live debt free people looked at us like we were crazy. The way we live now we have no car payments, no credit car payments, and just pay our utilities. Making a budget is really important, people might be shocked to find if the add their car payments(+ extra ins for financed car), credit card payments, and other debts together it is a huge monthly number. If they could stop sending that money to other people and keep it for themselves, they can really start building wealth.
Mulligan said: You may want to check out a book(total money makeover + radio show) by this guy, he's a little bit hokey but has sound advice on getting out of debt and changing your lifestyle. Much of paying off debt and understanding how money works is budgeting and psychological. For example paying off the smaller credit cards, while paying your minimums on others, may help you build what he calls the snowball. You kill these cards and cancel them, building momentum.
Good luck with this, my wife and I went through this and when we told our friends that we wanted to live debt free people looked at us like we were crazy. The way we live now we have no car payments, no credit car payments, and just pay our utilities. Making a budget is really important, people might be shocked to find if the add their car payments(+ extra ins for financed car), credit card payments, and other debts together it is a huge monthly number. If they could stop sending that money to other people and keep it for themselves, they can really start building wealth.
yah, not sure why peeps always give me red when I mention someone should go BK! The point here is to rid of his debt ASAP and start saving up for the future. Does filing for BK suck? sure. does it ruin your credit? yes. is it the right thing to do? probably not. will it help you faster then what you'll be able to accomplish over the next 2 years? yes! i'd just file and broom it under the carpet.
EricGo
Senior Member - 2K
posted: Aug. 27, 2006 @ 12:17p
Not always, supertie. IBJanky had great success finishing off his low debt cards first in order to gain more 0% apr offers. The important differnce here though, is OP's cards are maxed out.
mike841 said: Hello Hypersion thank you for the reply - We have a Citi and Discover card, that is the card the 0% until 7/07 is currently on - due to our high balance to credit limit ratio we are unable to open more credit card accounts at 0% at the time - also the two cards at high balances are with Bank of America - we have tried everything to get them to lower the interest rate and they wont budge, saying it's based on our current credit score... so we're kind of screwed in that regard.
Do both you and your spouse have the same credit score? Credit scores are set for individuals not couples. See if one of you is lower than the other, if so you might be able to apply for credit using that individuals SSN.
mst3k
Senior Member
posted: Aug. 27, 2006 @ 9:43p
tcope said: Paying min. on all except the highest interest card is _not_ usually the way to go. If this card also has the highest balance, the min you will pay on a low interest rate card will just be drawn out for such a long time, you'll end up paying more.
What? This makes no sense at all. Ignoring paying down a card to lower your utilization in order to try to attract 0% offers(which is not the reson you give), mathematically paying off the highest rate first will save you the most money.
Can you please show me some of your magic math where the low interest rate card getting drawn out causes you to pay more?
Because every card is maxed out, the OP will not qualify for any 0% offers so they would be best off paying the highest rate first.
tcope
Senior Member
posted: Aug. 27, 2006 @ 10:58p
mst3k said: tcope said: Paying min. on all except the highest interest card is _not_ usually the way to go. If this card also has the highest balance, the min you will pay on a low interest rate card will just be drawn out for such a long time, you'll end up paying more.
What? This makes no sense at all. Ignoring paying down a card to lower your utilization in order to try to attract 0% offers(which is not the reson you give), mathematically paying off the highest rate first will save you the most money.
Can you please show me some of your magic math where the low interest rate card getting drawn out causes you to pay more?
Because every card is maxed out, the OP will not qualify for any 0% offers so they would be best off paying the highest rate first.
I won't get into the long explanation by showing all the math (as there are just too many variables), rather I'll explain it a bit differently:
Card 1 = $10,000 balance at 25% with a min payment of $150 Card 2 = $1,000 balance at 5% with min payment of $25
If you were to pay the min on Card 2 while your paying off Card 1, you'd be paying $25 for almost 4 years on Card 2. Where as if you _aggresivly_ pay off Card 2 (read, quickly), you then can add that $25 toward paying off Card 1 more quickly. It's not the interest your looking at avoiding. it's the ability to _remove_ a min payment amount toward a card that can now be applied to another card (Debt Snowball). By paying off the smaller amount quickly, you reduce the interest your paying toward that card but this is a minor point. You're really trying to free up that min amount.
Again, your not really trying to remove the interest you're paying rather you're trying to free up that min payment amount so it can be _quickly_ applied to another debt. Now you're _really_ hacking away at the higher interest rate card.
This will only work if the person aggresivly attacks the debt and also applies every last cent to paying off the next card.
It's unlikely that the person will qualify for a 0% card anytime soon. Just paying down one card somewhat will not trigger this. It can take a year or more to get a better deal. if the OP waits around for this or counts on it happening, he's fooling himself yet again.
mst3k
Senior Member
posted: Aug. 28, 2006 @ 12:26a
tcope said: mst3k said: tcope said: Paying min. on all except the highest interest card is _not_ usually the way to go. If this card also has the highest balance, the min you will pay on a low interest rate card will just be drawn out for such a long time, you'll end up paying more.
What? This makes no sense at all. Ignoring paying down a card to lower your utilization in order to try to attract 0% offers(which is not the reson you give), mathematically paying off the highest rate first will save you the most money.
Can you please show me some of your magic math where the low interest rate card getting drawn out causes you to pay more?
Because every card is maxed out, the OP will not qualify for any 0% offers so they would be best off paying the highest rate first.
I won't get into the long explanation by showing all the math (as there are just too many variables), rather I'll explain it a bit differently:
Card 1 = $10,000 balance at 25% with a min payment of $150 Card 2 = $1,000 balance at 5% with min payment of $25
If you were to pay the min on Card 2 while your paying off Card 1, you'd be paying $25 for almost 4 years on Card 2. Where as if you _aggresivly_ pay off Card 2 (read, quickly), you then can add that $25 toward paying off Card 1 more quickly. It's not the interest your looking at avoiding. it's the ability to _remove_ a min payment amount toward a card that can now be applied to another card (Debt Snowball). By paying off the smaller amount quickly, you reduce the interest your paying toward that card but this is a minor point. You're really trying to free up that min amount.
Again, your not really trying to remove the interest you're paying rather you're trying to free up that min payment amount so it can be _quickly_ applied to another debt. Now you're _really_ hacking away at the higher interest rate card.
This will only work if the person aggresivly attacks the debt and also applies every last cent to paying off the next card.
It's unlikely that the person will qualify for a 0% card anytime soon. Just paying down one card somewhat will not trigger this. It can take a year or more to get a better deal. if the OP waits around for this or counts on it happening, he's fooling himself yet again.
I ran your example in Excel. Paying off the higher rate first causes your total debt to be paid off sooner than paying off the lower rate first. Also, I don't know of a single credit card that lets you pay less than the accrued interest. So you numbers disprove your point and are contrived.
And I think that is really the point if you think about it. Sure you can come up with hypothetical scenarios where one thing might be better than the other but in the end you need to run the numbers for your own case and figure out which one is best. However, even if you find a highly contrived example, I still dispute your statement that paying off the highest rate is *not usually* the best option. Even when you fudged the numbers it didn't work out so I'm betting those corner cases are pretty rare.
I went to your link. It supplied no factual evidence that this was the best method. In fact it didn't claim to be the fastest (least costly) method to repay debt at all. Really it said that there is a pscyhological benefit to retiring a debt so paying off the smallest debt gets you to the first debt retirement the quickest. I won't dispute that.
The fact remains with the numbers you gave me in my simulation your method cost over $800 extra.
frootmall
Senior Member - 1K
posted: Aug. 28, 2006 @ 2:05a
tcope said: I won't get into the long explanation by showing all the math (as there are just too many variables), rather I'll explain it a bit differently:
Card 1 = $10,000 balance at 25% with a min payment of $150 Card 2 = $1,000 balance at 5% with min payment of $25
If you were to pay the min on Card 2 while your paying off Card 1, you'd be paying $25 for almost 4 years on Card 2. Where as if you _aggresivly_ pay off Card 2 (read, quickly), you then can add that $25 toward paying off Card 1 more quickly. It's not the interest your looking at avoiding. it's the ability to _remove_ a min payment amount toward a card that can now be applied to another card (Debt Snowball). By paying off the smaller amount quickly, you reduce the interest your paying toward that card but this is a minor point. You're really trying to free up that min amount.
You didn't say what you mean by "aggresively" paying down Card 2.
Let's say you mean, add an extra $100 to your payment, so you are paying $125 a month in order to aggressively pay it off.
Card 2 will be paid off in 9 months. However, your balance on Card 1 at the end of 9 months will be $10525. Add the $125 to what you were paying on Card 1 (total new payment = $275/month) and you will pay off the balance in another 78. Total payoff time 78 + 9 = 87 months.
Now, let's do it the other way around. Add the $100 a month to Card 1 and pay $250 a month. Pay $25 a month to Card 2.
Card 2 will be paid off in 44 months. At the end of 44 months, the balance on card 1 will be $7044. Add the extra $25/month to Card 1 for a total of $275/month. Card 1 will be paid off in another 37 months. Total payoff time: 44 + 37 = 81 months.
Difference: 6 months. 6 x $275 = $1650.
Actually, in real life, the minimum payment will decrease each month until it reaches the minimum minimum. That means you could shift more of the payment from the low interest card to the high interest card each month and the payoff would be even faster.
There is, however, one good arguement for paying off lower cards first: Most people who are in serious debt trouble are paying late payment fees and over the limit fees each month. Eliminating extra cards could reduce the number of late and over the limit fees that are paid each month.
valueshopper
Member
posted: Aug. 28, 2006 @ 1:01p
Since OP is paying $1115 + two car payments + rent every month, and he is thinking about "attacking the CC debt", we can assume they have steady job/income, 3k or more take home pay every month? If my assumption is way off, let me know.
With this, I would say, swallow your pride and ask for help from your parents. With one upfront promise, you will put a direct deposit to the account your parents open for you to pay it off.
1. You really only need to refinance two high interest CC debt, $21,000 for the 18&21% cards. If your Dad opens a HELOC for you to pay off these $21,000, you only need to direct deposit whatever minimum pay you are paying right now, $590 a month, right? You can pay it off in less than 4 years.
2. Pay just the minimum on the 3.9 card. That interest is not that bad, you can earn more interst with your cash in many places.
3. Start (if you haven't already) saving your cash for the balloon payment in 07/07. Get as hight interest as possible now. But make sure you can liquidate them b4 07/07.
Weird that OP does not respond to several questions on the family income. Looks like a thread to get juices flowing through the old FW.
N
mike841
New Member
posted: Aug. 28, 2006 @ 5:51p
needdealsnow said: Weird that OP does not respond to several questions on the family income. Looks like a thread to get juices flowing through the old FW.
N
It's not weird at all - my birthday was this weekend, and I don't stay attached to the internet at all times so getting right back to the thread was not an immediate concern considering other priorities this weekend.
Our bills each month are as follows:
Auto loans - $650 (both up in 7/08) Auto/renter insurance - $280 Student loans (after recent consolidation) - $325 Credit card minimum payments - $1115 Rent - $1350 (been here 4 years, rent hasnt gone up and never will per the lease, landlord is basically non-existant) Electric/water - $150-$200 depending on season Cable/cel/internet - $200 Gas - $75 per week (will begin carpooling in fall/winter reducing this number) Groceries - $200 per month
Total takehome pay is $5400 after taxes per month
It appears from everything I have read thusfar that it's either HELOC if we want to pay it, and BK if we don't (and spend the next 4-5 years we'd spend paying off the HELOC building credit and saving from money saved via BK).
My significant other is almost done paying off $20,000 of 26% debt. I made her go to a Debt Consolidator, a real one from the National Credit Counseling web site, paid the $20 and they made her a budget and then created a plan. In exchange the CCC contacted each creditor she wanted help with and got them to either lower or end the intrest rate. Worked great. This isn't a debt forgiveness scam that destroys your credit, you still get to pay back every penny, but at least it isn't growing at some high rate you can never pay off.
Then last year we got her a secured card, about to change to a real card, and I made her a authorized user. Its been about 1 and 1/2 years and she will be done in under 6 mos, and then we can slowly rebuild her credit.
EDIT: since so many people keep PMing me for the company that can help and is legit:
Good luck with your debt, I don't need my intrest rates going up because of deadbeats!
Skipping 35 Messages...
dealhunter999
Ancient Member
posted: Sep. 2, 2006 @ 3:12p
It might have been repeated earlier but worth mentioning....
Credit utilzation on any single card should not be more then 50%. It really hurts the score. As a consequences your APR goes up. You can hike up the CC score by 30-40 point if you bring down CC utilization on one of the card below 50%. Lately lots of CC companies are looking for this sort of situations and increases the APR as the risk factor becomes very high.Once you are flagged as RISKY PROFILE, you are doomed! All your CC APR will touch 30% and It takes long time to come back to normal profile
$8,700 - 20.99% - ~$240 per month $12,300 - 17.99% - ~$350 per month $15,000 - 3.9% lifetime - $300 per month $7,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $150 per month $5,000 - 0% until 7/07 - $75 per month
I think the order above is best way to pay up the debt.
1. Bring down $8700 balance to less then 50% 2. Bring down $12,300 balance to less then 50% 3. Pay up remaining balance on $8,700 card 4. Pay up remaining balance on $12,300 card
Depending on your savings and income this might take you a year. Just about time for your 0% apr to get back to normal APR. Repeat the same process. However, I think you might want to consider next para...
For 0% APR BT, I recommend you bring your balances to under 80% of credit limit. This will avoid CC companies RISK PROFILE flag. You will have judge your payment affordability and make appropiate decision for 0% BT credit card payment.
Try increase your credit limit, Best way is to be an authorized user on your spouse/parents card. Make sure this cards are never used to it's max limit or it will severly impact your scores. Make sure authorized user card do get report to credit history. DO NOT be an authorised user for a no limit card. Limits do not get reported to credit history.
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