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Car leasing lingo question:

I want to pay ALL the required fees to start the lease upfront (e.g. TTL, documentation fee, etc.) so I don't pay extra interest on them.† What's the lingo I need to tell the salesman so he knows what I'm talking about?† Do I say "inceptions", "driveoff" or does "TTL" mean all these fees?

Thanks!

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LongDongSilver said:   Car leasing lingo question:

I want to pay ALL the required fees to start the lease upfront (e.g. TTL, documentation fee, etc.) so I don't pay extra interest on them.† What's the lingo I need to tell the salesman so he knows what I'm talking about?† Do I say "inceptions", "driveoff" or does "TTL" mean all these fees?

Thanks!

† TTL means tax, title, license (registration) fees. Inception is implanting an idea into their subconscious. Remember, don't die in the dream and don't go too many levels deep or you might get trapped.†

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very good nice

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All of my credit reports have mentioned that I don't have any loans on record. Would it be a good idea to get a loan and if so what kind of loan should I be looking for?

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parkdanil said:   All of my credit reports have mentioned that I don't have any loans on record. Would it be a good idea to get a loan and if so what kind of loan should I be looking for?
†It depends on your goals and your credit score. Bottom line is that you should only get credit that you can use responsibly (pay off credit cards at end of month, car loan or mortgage within your means). If you're not going to be able to use it responsibly, it will cost you dearly.

In order to give more specific advice, we need to know what your goals are, what your credit score/history is, and what your financial picture looks like in terms of income, expenses & debts.

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BostonOne said:   
parkdanil said:   All of my credit reports have mentioned that I don't have any loans on record. Would it be a good idea to get a loan and if so what kind of loan should I be looking for?
†It depends on your goals and your credit score. Bottom line is that you should only get credit that you can use responsibly (pay off credit cards at end of month, car loan or mortgage within your means). If you're not going to be able to use it responsibly, it will cost you dearly.

In order to give more specific advice, we need to know what your goals are, what your credit score/history is, and what your financial picture looks like in terms of income, expenses & debts.

† I have 800+ FICO scores and no reporting loans. Am I worried about it? No

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BostonOne said:   
parkdanil said:   All of my credit reports have mentioned that I don't have any loans on record. Would it be a good idea to get a loan and if so what kind of loan should I be looking for?
†It depends on your goals and your credit score. Bottom line is that you should only get credit that you can use responsibly (pay off credit cards at end of month, car loan or mortgage within your means). If you're not going to be able to use it responsibly, it will cost you dearly.

In order to give more specific advice, we need to know what your goals are, what your credit score/history is, and what your financial picture looks like in terms of income, expenses & debts.

† I'm 29 I live in a house owned by a relative so no mortgage though I do pay the power/internet bills, I get around on a scooter so don't really need a car loan. I've got cap1 quicksilver 3k, WalMart 1.4k credit cards. I get maybe $460 per month after paying bills. I'd like to get married but I'm not the most social creature, probably just use an agency and skip dating if possible.

Goals hmm...can't think of anything other than stuff like becoming mega-rich.

EDIT:† Don't know why I didn't think of it before but I could certainly get a shiny new scooter, a loan would be fine for that.

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parkdanil said:   All of my credit reports have mentioned that I don't have any loans on record. Would it be a good idea to get a loan and if so what kind of loan should I be looking for?
† I suggest you think about what your goals are. †In a later post you made a comment about getting a shiny new scooter. †OK, if that is what really turns you on, go for it. †

It seems that perhaps a bit more soul searching might be in order to figure out where you want to go in your life, what you really value, how you are going to get there. †

Would it be a good idea to get a loan? †Sure, if that is going to get you where you want to go. †At one point, I got a car loan for a car I could have paid for with cash. †I let it ride a few months and paid it off to see how it might help my credit score. † At times, my credit score is very important to me, so it was well worth a few months of interest (2% or something -- no big money on the table) Otherwise, you've got a decent start on some CCs which will provide you with a decent credit history as you go along. †No need to get a loan just for the purpose of getting a loan. †

Keep reading here and Bogleheads (for investing) and creditboards (for credit tips) and you'll soon be on your way financially and perhaps pick up some ideas on where you want to go in your life. †All meant seriously and in a helpful manner. †


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I am planning on buying a house in the next 1-2 years, so I need to keep the down payment in cash/savings account etc. Should I withdraw from my stock brokerage account OR my roth IRA? Assume both have the amount I'll need for my down payment, and that the Roth IRA was not earmarked for retirement. The Roth IRA withdrawal would be contributions only, not earnings. I've owned all stocks for a year+. Thank you!

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how to transfer vanguard.com to paypal

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Is it possible to use a dental "discount" plan in conjunction with dental insurance? How might that work? Use the dental discounts "at checkout" (so to speak) then turn the receipts in to the insurance for reimbursement myself? Or do some dentists actually allow you to combine those sorts of plans and still handle all the billing?

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skp17 said:   Is it possible to use a dental "discount" plan in conjunction with dental insurance? How might that work? Use the dental discounts "at checkout" (so to speak) then turn the receipts in to the insurance for reimbursement myself? Or do some dentists actually allow you to combine those sorts of plans and still handle all the billing?
† They're only going to let you combine them when they aren't oroviding a discount with the insurance.

Your best bet is either A) Go to an in-network dentist that accepts insurance reimbursement as full payment, or B) ask for the best price for pre-paid service and submit for reimbursement.

Most dental pans pay a fixed fee for each service regardless of how much it's actually costs or who provides the service.

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Can someone please tell me what the website is for the old Chase Mastercard Travel Plus rewards page to redeem my points(if Chase hasn't eliminated them)
On my phone no matter what I do I can not find the full website. Why does Chase make things so difficult? The original credit card was issued in 1972 through Chase and then Chase sold that division to Huntington Bank.

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I have a "Good" credit score but got denied a credit card last night by Capital One. I don't have the secure message yet but I think the problem is I left the country in 2012 and am back now which means accounts are closed and they don't have enough credit info on file. What is the way out of this, do I go get a secure credit card?

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Thank you for your response. †

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eBay 15 off 100 C15FATHERSDAY fathers day gifts in sporting goods and more

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I'm seeking to open a no-fee/no-min bal checking account that I can open w/o a credit pull. I didn't think this would be such a task.

On top of that, no fee ATM access (NYC) to my $$ is required plus the ability to actually deposit checks somehow.

Ally seemed perfect but in the end the reps tell me they do a soft pull w/Equifax.

I'd like to avoid the credit ding if possible.

Also, what is the rep is simply misinformed and they actually do a hard pull? (I've read stories)
How can I prevent a hard pull while still allowing a soft?

Any suggestions appreciated

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popoq said:   I'm seeking to open a no-fee/no-min bal checking account that I can open w/o a credit pull. I didn't think this would be such a task.

On top of that, no fee ATM access (NYC) to my $$ is required plus the ability to actually deposit checks somehow.

Ally seemed perfect but in the end the reps tell me they do a soft pull w/Equifax.

I'd like to avoid the credit ding if possible.

Also, what is the rep is simply misinformed and they actually do a hard pull? (I've read stories)
How can I prevent a hard pull while still allowing a soft?

Any suggestions appreciated

††
Why are you trying to avoid the pulls? Buying a house or car soon? Usually even a hard pull only drops you 3-5 point so if your score is high enough, it shouldn't matter. Usually when opening an account they make you sign all sorts of paperwork which lets them do it. Probably the only way to avoid it is not to open the account. You may just be overthinking things a little here, it's really a minor matter.

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Exactly, and I want to keep my score as intact as possible.

It just ludicrous that a credit inquiry should occur at all, when I'm giving them my money to play with. I am NOT asking them for a line of credit per se (veracity of a written check can be determined at the point of sale so that's really a non sequitur).

In any event, how can I verify, after the fact, that a hard-pull was NOT done (as they say)?

Is there any free, safe way to check?

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You can get a copy of your credit report once a year from all 3 credit bureaus for free. Just go to annualcreditreport.com. I think they also list the hard and soft pulls on your account. It doesn't actually give you your score though, for that you have to pay. And even if you do, you get a so called fakeo score which isn't the same one that mortgage companies use.

It makes perfect sense for them to check your credit, they want to make sure you're not a total deadbeat that's going to pull some scam on them that will cost them money to clean up later.

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Here goes .... I built my home five years ago and used a home equity line on a relative's home for the $$ (super low interest and less of a hassle than a construction loan). I've been paying it every month but definitely need to get that equity $$ off that relative's house and onto my own. I'm not sure if I should try to apply for a mortgage (only making about $50K on my own) or try to get a home equity line to pay off the line on the other house. First step would probably be having my home appraised, correct? I have a car loan out right now that's less than $15K left and have a motorcycle loan w/my boyfriend that we just took out last August - that's still up there around $30K. The equity balance is about $177K right now. Thank you all!!

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The potential difficulty, as you probably know, will be your total debt payments. I did a quick calculation assuming your car loan also started off around $30k and assuming both car and motorcycle loans were for 60 months at 5%. That leads to a monthly payment of around $1100 for both vehicles.

If that's the case, you'll only have about $400 that you can apply to a mortgage, based on the typical 36% max debt service used by mortgage lenders. That's less than half what you'll need for a $177k mortgage. Some lenders will go higher on debt-to-income ratio if you have a high percentage of equity.

Maybe you could provide actual numbers for your vehicle-related debt service. That would be much better than my guesses (though sometimes my guesses are pretty good). Also would be helpful to know your house value and the taxes that you pay on it each year.

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The car loan started at about $21K in 2013, it's a 75 month loan w/a 2.5% - I pay a little bit more than what's asked for every month, I give them about $300-320/month there's 14,427 left on it now. The bike loan, I think that he and I need to refinance it, I'm hoping I can do that w/the same company that the car loan is through. That interest rate is nearly 7% and it's in both our names, right about 30,200 is left on it.

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The key bit of info is - What is your scheduled monthly payment on the car and bike loans?

The next bit - What are your annual tax and insurance payments on your house?

And last - What is the value of your house?

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Hi. First credit card. Chase Freedom. Have a question about the bonus categories.

For this quarter, "Gas Stations" are included, and Chase gives a list of Merchants you can get the bonus CB from. But Chase goes on to say what determines a merchant's qualification is what their registers ring your purchase up as - and you can find all merchants' "Merchant Codes" online (https://www.visa.com/supplierlocator/search/index.jsp).

So if:
A merchant (M1) mentioned on the list has a Merchant Code of 5541
A merchant (M2) not on the list has a Merchant Code of 5541

Does M2 qualify for 5% CB? Any purchases made there (they only have one MC - 5541)?

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Yes, you'd get the 5% from any purchase processed under that merchant code (assuming that's a code that qualifies for 5% CB).

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