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LearningFast said:   Did you used to a scheduled add and now you did a one time thing? Sometimes that can account for the difference. Otherwise they probably changed it at the originating institution. 
Thank you for your comments.

I did this ACH the same way I have done the previous 4.  All have been one-time transactions. 

Since all other variables have been constant, I think you are right that they must have recently changed their ACH-naming procedures at the originating bank.

I could call the originating bank to ask if they have recently altered the way they describe ACHs, and I would feel comfortable asking them that question, and it probably would be good to know, just in general,
but my main concern at the moment is whether this type of ACH is accepted or not to fulfill bonus requirements at the receiving bank, and I don't want to call them to enquire about that.

Hmmmmm...

Are other people now seeing their ACHs from personal bank accounts designated as:  "P2P (sender's full name)"?  Is that the typical descriptor for those sorts of ACHs? 

Is there any way I could set my ACHs up (bearing in mind that there seem to be relatively few choices presented to me by my bank when I create one) that would make them more likely to be named in the style of a generic ACH?
 

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jayK said:   
matrix5k said:   I signed a lease for an apartment a few months ago. I have to move out of state for work. I didn't expect this to happen. Management says it will cost 2 months rent to break lease. Is there anything I can do to get out of this?
What does your lease say? If the lease says it costs 2 months of rent to break, then that's what you have to pay.

  If the lease has no lease break fee, then you would owe the lost revenue of the lease. However, the landlord/management has a duty to mitigate losses.

What this means is that, if you break your lease, your landlord can only charge you the difference between what they would have collected and what they actually collect.

If rents have been going up, and they can quickly fill the unit, you might not legally owe anything. On the other hand, if vacancies are high you risk owing the full remaining amount of the contract.

When your landlord says it takes two months to break the lease, that's either A) stipulated in the lease agreement, or B) their negotiated settlement for breaking the lease.

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Trying to figure out if anyone on here sells on places like stubhub on the regular. I've sold some tickets on there and it's always been OK, but they've always been pretty small value. I lucked into some face value $850 tickets to the WS and needed to sell them. They were like 2000-2500 on stubhub, but my experience with places like eBay has generally been that it's ridiculously easy for buyers to fake that they didn't get the item (or in this case that the tickets were not good) and get their money back. I sold for a substantial discount to get cash off CL, but figured that I wanted to do a little more research about stubhub for the "next time."

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NantucketSunrise said:   
LearningFast said:   Did you used to a scheduled add and now you did a one time thing? Sometimes that can account for the difference. Otherwise they probably changed it at the originating institution. 
Thank you for your comments.

I did this ACH the same way I have done the previous 4.  All have been one-time transactions. 

Since all other variables have been constant, I think you are right that they must have recently changed their ACH-naming procedures at the originating bank.

I could call the originating bank to ask if they have recently altered the way they describe ACHs, and I would feel comfortable asking them that question, and it probably would be good to know, just in general,
but my main concern at the moment is whether this type of ACH is accepted or not to fulfill bonus requirements at the receiving bank, and I don't want to call them to enquire about that.

Hmmmmm...

Are other people now seeing their ACHs from personal bank accounts designated as:  "P2P (sender's full name)"?  Is that the typical descriptor for those sorts of ACHs? 

Is there any way I could set my ACHs up (bearing in mind that there seem to be relatively few choices presented to me by my bank when I create one) that would make them more likely to be named in the style of a generic ACH?

  It's not the "P2P + Name" part that matters but rather the code at the end, because banks almost never do a manual review of all direct deposits. Generally speaking, you are much more likely to have the thing count as direct deposit if it has a PPD code than if it has a WEB code at the end. But this depends on the receiving institution. some say outright that they require "direct deposit or ACH" and they usually accept the WEB transactions. Others are more strict and will only accept the PPD transactions. Very few will only accept true direct deposits (payroll/social security etc) and not any kind of ACH. 

The only thing you can do on your end to hedge your bets is set up a recurring deposit instead of a one time deposit. Sometimes that can make a difference. If they still won't count it you will have to find some other originating institution that codes its ACH pushes as PPD. I have found brokerage services usually fit that bill. Alliant Credit Union in Chicago is the FWF preferred institution for this: their ACHs usually post in a way that is very similar to payroll deposits and they are very quick (you submit the ACH request today, money is in the destination account tomorrow). 

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matrix5k said:   I signed a lease for an apartment a few months ago. I have to move out of state for work. I didn't expect this to happen. Management says it will cost 2 months rent to break lease. Is there anything I can do to get out of this?
  Also, check state and local rental laws.  In my area, you can break your lease if you are moving for work.  But that is likely YMMV depending on where you live.

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corporateclaw said:   Trying to figure out if anyone on here sells on places like stubhub on the regular. I've sold some tickets on there and it's always been OK, but they've always been pretty small value. I lucked into some face value $850 tickets to the WS and needed to sell them. They were like 2000-2500 on stubhub, but my experience with places like eBay has generally been that it's ridiculously easy for buyers to fake that they didn't get the item (or in this case that the tickets were not good) and get their money back. I sold for a substantial discount to get cash off CL, but figured that I wanted to do a little more research about stubhub for the "next time."
  I have used Stubhub a couple of times this year to sell college football tickets for games I couldn't attend.  I have always opted for the instant download option (inputting the barcode from the tickets so the buyer gets to print out tickets as soon as they pay) and I have not had an issue yet.  My ticket values have not been as much as yours but I would assume it would work the same.  Usually have my physical check from stubhub within a week to 10 days after the sale.

I don't like their new system for selling the tickets.  Before you set your price and it was the price displayed on the website.  When the tickets sold, the buyer paid that price plus a fee and stubhub took their commission from that price before they paid you.  Now you put your price and stubhub puts all of their fees (18% so far in my experience) onto the price and displays that online.  They still take the 10% from your original asking price when they sell. 

Anyone else have ideas for other legit sites to sell tickets in a fashion similar to stubhub?    

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LearningFast said:     It's not the "P2P + Name" part that matters but rather the code at the end, because banks almost never do a manual review of all direct deposits. Generally speaking, you are much more likely to have the thing count as direct deposit if it has a PPD code than if it has a WEB code at the end. But this depends on the receiving institution. some say outright that they require "direct deposit or ACH" and they usually accept the WEB transactions. Others are more strict and will only accept the PPD transactions. Very few will only accept true direct deposits (payroll/social security etc) and not any kind of ACH. 
The only thing you can do on your end to hedge your bets is set up a recurring deposit instead of a one time deposit. Sometimes that can make a difference. If they still won't count it you will have to find some other originating institution that codes its ACH pushes as PPD. I have found brokerage services usually fit that bill. Alliant Credit Union in Chicago is the FWF preferred institution for this: their ACHs usually post in a way that is very similar to payroll deposits and they are very quick (you submit the ACH request today, money is in the destination account tomorrow). 

Thank you for all this helpful information!

I wondered why people spoke about Alliant CU here as if it was somehow different from other credit unions/banks.

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Regarding my ACH question, I found this - it may be relevant:

"New NACHA Rules became effective on March 21, 2014, that standardize the use of the ACH Network for person-to-person (P2P) payments and clarify the definition of a Third-Party Sender.

This Rule provides clarity and consistency to ODFIs, RDFIs, Originators and Third Parties about how to apply the Rules to P2P payments. A discrete set of rules for P2P payments will enable Originators and Third-Party Service Providers to implement internal processes and procedures for these entries in order to improve operations and customer service, reduce costs, reduce risk and fraud, and minimize exceptions and disputes....

The initial phase of implementation permits the usage of the new WEB credit P2P application. This means that while Originators are not mandated to utilize this new format until March 20, 2015, ACH Operators and RDFIs must be prepared to accept these transactions now.

....on March 20, 2015, ...all ODFIs will be required to use the WEB credit transactions for all P2P payments via ACH."

https://www.nacha.org/news/new-p2p-payments-ach-and-third-party-...

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If that is the case there are dark days ahead. Thanks for posting it

Do note that for everyday interest purposes there are a bunch of rewarsa checking accounts that will grant the higher rate if you have any kind of ACH post (and they say this in their materials). I have found LCMU to be great for this and an all around great place to bank anyway.

For bonus purposes if you don't have a payroll deposit then it looks like you're screwed starting march? Or perhaps the FWF community will find a workaround

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is there a 401k calculator that allows a person to maximize the amount that can be contributed as early as possible and also maximizes the employer match? (my employer has 60 cents to 6% match and allows me to contribute upto 75% per pay period) My math is not good enough to remember how to setup the equation to contribute the highest percentage before dragging out the remaining contributions to 6% to get the employer match. Thank you in advance

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VivYip said:   is there a 401k calculator that allows a person to maximize the amount that can be contributed as early as possible and also maximizes the employer match? (my employer has 60 cents to 6% match and allows me to contribute upto 75% per pay period) My math is not good enough to remember how to setup the equation to contribute the highest percentage before dragging out the remaining contributions to 6% to get the employer match. Thank you in advance
 

  I don't know what "and allows me to contribute up to 75% per pay period" means. 75% of what?
I also don't know what "60 cents to 6% match" means. Does that mean your employer will contribute an extra 60 cents for every dollar you contribute, up to 6% of your total salary?
Another question, based on how you're framing yours, is - if you make a single lump sum contribution on the 1st day of the year, will your employer match that? Or will they only match up to 6% of your salary every pay period.
 

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imbatman said:   
VivYip said:   is there a 401k calculator that allows a person to maximize the amount that can be contributed as early as possible and also maximizes the employer match? (my employer has 60 cents to 6% match and allows me to contribute upto 75% per pay period) My math is not good enough to remember how to setup the equation to contribute the highest percentage before dragging out the remaining contributions to 6% to get the employer match. Thank you in advance
  I don't know what "and allows me to contribute up to 75% per pay period" means. 75% of what?
75% of my paycheck
I also don't know what "60 cents to 6% match" means. Does that mean your employer will contribute an extra 60 cents for every dollar you contribute, up to 6% of your total salary? I thought it was 6%, but it seems like it's more like 3.6% (i don't like their wording though) of my paycheck
Another question, based on how you're framing yours, is - if you make a single lump sum contribution on the 1st day of the year, will your employer match that? Or will they only match up to 6% of your salary every pay period. From what I'm learning, it's upto 6% of my salary every pay period


 

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If you want to maximize the match, then don't make more than necessary unmatched contributions. Maximum allowed contribution (currently $17,500) minus 6% of your annual salary = unmatched contribution. The first 6% will be matched, anything between 6% and 75% will not be matched, so just figure out that amount and calculate how many paychecks it'll take to reach that amount. What's so hard about this?

Also keep in mind that you are assuming your salary won't increase. If you follow this formula and get a raise later, you won't get the match on that raise.

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Is anyone having trouble logging in online to the Citi credit card website? I want to check my statements/pay bills but I get this error message asking for my ATM card and PIN number. I'm logging in for my credit cards, not a bank account.

Website I've logged into for years:
https://www.citi.com/credit-cards/creditcards/CitiHome.do 

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matrix5k said:   Is anyone having trouble logging in online to the Citi credit card website? I want to check my statements/pay bills but I get this error message asking for my ATM card and PIN number. I'm logging in for my credit cards, not a bank account.

Website I've logged into for years:
https://www.citi.com/credit-cards/creditcards/CitiHome.do

� I checked the site and got the normal sign on screen. �Perhaps it was a glitch in the system that's been fixed.

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I received a 0%APR Balance Transfer for 12 months and 3% fee from my existing Credit Card. I did 0%APR BT and paid the 3% fee. I also used the same card for purchases. Now I want to pay just the purchase part off and want the carry BT part for 12 months. But CC CSR is telling me I have to pay everything in full, otherwise, they will charge me regular purchase APR. Because they apply my payments to lower APR (0% for BT) first. Am I doomed? What is your advice? Can I ask CSR/manager to apply my payments to purchases first? If they say no, can I ask them to refund the 3% fee?

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I applied Discover IT card last week and approved without the sign-up bonus. Now I see $150 sign-up bonus for the same card. How can I get $150 sign-up bonus?

rated:
4 -- my understanding of the CARD act is that CCs must apply your payment to the highest interest balance first. I think the CSR you spoke to was a few years out of date.

Keep in mind that many CCs will start charging you the purchase interest rate immediately after purchase when you are carrying a balance. So... you should probably pay off the purchases plus a bit more in order to cover the interest that is now accumulating daily. Then you should be on easy street for the rest of your 0% term. Just sock-drawer the card for the rest of the term, make sure to make the payments on time and pay it off several days in advance of the 0% term. Some CCs will nick you with the full 12 months of regular interest if you miss it (some of the sleazy ones, anyway -- usually not Chase, City, WF, etc)

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debentureboy said:   4 -- my understanding of the CARD act is that CCs must apply your payment to the highest interest balance first. I think the CSR you spoke to was a few years out of date.
 

  Caveat: The minimum required payment can be applied to the lowest APR balance (or other balance the bank chooses). The amount above the required minimum is what the bank is required to apply to the highest APR balance.

rated:
Yesterday I signed up for an Amex Blue cash card, $250 statement credit for spending $1K in first 3 mo. 
Prior to signing up, my score was 844 according to Discover card statement.
I have a Discover More.  I was thinking of getting a Discover IT for its present sign up bonus-- $150 on $750.  Have not been using the Discover More very much and had been thinking of changing More to IT anyway.
I've had 2 Discover cards in the past.  Will having just signed up for the Amex affect my getting a 2nd Discover card?  Do I have anything to lose by trying for it?
Priimary card is PenFed Visa.
thank you in advance for not flaming a newbie.
 

rated:
Theoretically yes, applying for the Amex Blue cash statement will affect your chances because the hard inquiry will lower your score a bit. However, since you started with a 844, you will almost certainly be fine getting the Discover It. Of course the bank will also take into account income and other factors when deciding whether or not to approve you. However, again, your score is so high you will almost certainly be approved.

The only thing you have to lose is 5-8 points - the temporary decrease in your score from the additional inquiry. That effect stops affecting your score after a year, and the effect is almost gone after 6 months.

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my4mainecoons said:   I was thinking of getting a Discover IT for its present sign up bonus-- $150 on $750.  Have not been using the Discover More very much and had been thinking of changing More to IT anyway.
IIRC, Discover limits you to 2 cards, so with your score you should be fine. But if they don't approve you for some reason, you can always product convert More to "it" -- you'll get better benefits and keep an old account (for credit history), but won't get the signup bonus.

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my4mainecoons said:   Yesterday I signed up for an Amex Blue cash card, $250 statement credit for spending $1K in first 3 mo. Blue Cash Everyday or Blue Cash Preferred? I assume this was a targeted offer via postal mail and/or email?
  

rated:
Hey everyone

I'm about to purchase a Rav4 with Toyota Financial credit. I graduated from college 2.5 years ago and have a nice paying job and excellent credit score. My sister is currently living in the same address and is a phd student. She also has great credit score but no job. Toyota financial is offering a $750 rebate for college students/grads. I was curious if we can have 2 people in the auto loan (she is totally cool with it) and benefit from her student status and my already good paying job and good credit scores of both of us. The details for the loan are addressed in here:

https://www.toyotafinancial.com/pub/w/#planning_center/financing...

I've always bought my cars all cash and never financed anything. Therefore I am just novice in this. Anyone have any experience like this?

I appreciate the help.

Thanks

rated:
Tosunum said:   Hey everyone

I'm about to purchase a Rav4 with Toyota Financial credit. I graduated from college 2.5 years ago and have a nice paying job and excellent credit score. My sister is currently living in the same address and is a phd student. She also has great credit score but no job. Toyota financial is offering a $750 rebate for college students/grads. I was curious if we can have 2 people in the auto loan (she is totally cool with it) and benefit from her student status and my already good paying job and good credit scores of both of us. The details for the loan are addressed in here:

https://www.toyotafinancial.com/pub/w/#planning_center/financing_options/buy/college_graduate_program

I've always bought my cars all cash and never financed anything. Therefore I am just novice in this. Anyone have any experience like this?

I appreciate the help.

Thanks

I would stay away from putting anyone else on a loan if you can help it. If you pay with cash as you've done in the past, you'll save a lot more than $750 over taking a loan. 

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Unless you're financing just to get the $750 back, you can't afford it. Stick with the good habits of paying all cash for cars, IMHO.

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Thank you for the input. I do have the money in stocks right now which are doing well (hope not to JINX it). It's a 0% APR for 60 months. I'll pay it full within the loan period (Turns out to be about 350-400 monthly based on my down payment) which I believe I can make with the money in the market.

I looked at the other rebate they are offering (500 for 2014 models and fine print says can not be combined with the other rebate offers) and it doesn't look like I can double dip and $250 doesn't look like worth the trouble. But still curious if anyone has benefited from something like that for future reference.

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Tosunum said:   Thank you for the input. I do have the money in stocks right now which are doing well (hope not to JINX it). It's a 0% APR for 60 months. I'll pay it full within the loan period (Turns out to be about 350-400 monthly based on my down payment) which I believe I can make with the money in the market.

I looked at the other rebate they are offering (500 for 2014 models and fine print says can not be combined with the other rebate offers) and it doesn't look like I can double dip and $250 doesn't look like worth the trouble. But still curious if anyone has benefited from something like that for future reference.

From the terms, it would appear your sister must have proof of a job offer that will start within 120 days of contract signing. It does not appear the rebate offer requires you to keep the financing for a certain period or forfeit the rebate, and if there is no penalty for paying off the loan early, you could (if she qualifies) take the loan, get the rebate and then pay off the loan.

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NoMoneyInMyWallet said:   
my4mainecoons said:   Yesterday I signed up for an Amex Blue cash card, $250 statement credit for spending $1K in first 3 mo. 
Blue Cash Everyday or Blue Cash Preferred? I assume this was a targeted offer via postal mail and/or email?
  

Blue Cash Everyday.  Yes, postal mail offer. 
T&C said "Welcome bonus offer not available to applicants who have or have had this product."  I've earned other AmEx sign up bonuses then closed the accounts but its been ~4 years since last one.  CS checked and I had not had Blue Cash Everyday so I qualified for this offer.  The last AmEx offer I did was Gold for Business $800 in gc (I got Home Depot) when spent 3k in first 3 months.  I've been waiting for similar offer to come around but haven't seen anything close.  I've been receiving  offers for $1000 or $500 back in gc I don't want or air miles for which I have no use.  So I went w/ this one. 

I didn't realize that AmEx had so many products.  So for future reference, I will no longer qualify for sign up bonus for Blue Cash Everyday but would I qualify for sign up bonus for eg Blue Cash Preferred? 
I've had Gold for Business.  I don't receive offers for that -- is it because I've had it?  I receive offers for Platinum for Business but haven't liked their sign up bonuses.

rated:
Tosunum said:   Hey everyone

I'm about to purchase a Rav4 with Toyota Financial credit. I graduated from college 2.5 years ago and have a nice paying job and excellent credit score. My sister is currently living in the same address and is a phd student. She also has great credit score but no job. Toyota financial is offering a $750 rebate for college students/grads. I was curious if we can have 2 people in the auto loan (she is totally cool with it) and benefit from her student status and my already good paying job and good credit scores of both of us. The details for the loan are addressed in here:

https://www.toyotafinancial.com/pub/w/#planning_center/financing_options/buy/college_graduate_program

I've always bought my cars all cash and never financed anything. Therefore I am just novice in this. Anyone have any experience like this?

I appreciate the help.

Thanks

  mixing money and family = asking for trouble

Sounds like you have already convinced yourself to pull the trigger.

rated:
I'm always having semi-urgent tax questions (wife has to decide whether to be on her plan Friday), but in case anyone knows anything I can do to find an actual answer on this, I'm posting it anyway:

My wife's employer does not pay any portion of her health insurance premiums (i.e., it is $800.00 per month for us to be on the insurance and she pays 100% of it out of her check). She did the math and going through the exchange based on our insurance usage buying it off of the exchange would be about $4,000.00 less per year (in terms of total dollars). I have my own solo firm and theoretically I could get the insurance with her as a covered spouse and take it as an above-the-line deduction on my income. In which case the money comparison would be "apples to apples."

The only caveat is that there is a "worksheet 6-A Self-Employed Health Insurance Deduction Worksheet" which states that you cannot deduct "Amounts for any month you were eligible to participate in a health plan subsidized by your or your spouse's employer ..." When researching if this would block us from being able to deduct it, the only thing I could find were some forums (TurboTax and another thing like that) where somebody asked essentially this exact question and was told that the premiums would NOT be deductible.

The lawyer in me says that this "subsidized" word needs to mean something and since her work pays no portion of her premium, then it is not subsidized (and therefore should be deductible). The more risk averse part of me is saying that this is not definite enough and not worth the risk of discovering that the premiums were no longer deductible. It's not strictly an ACA question, but.... it sort of is, since I imagine prior to the ACA it never would have been cheaper to go on the open market for healthcare when you had a spouse that had access to ANY plan (subsidized or not).

Any ideas? I've spoken to my accountant and he's in sort of the same place I am (thinking the word has to mean something) but also does not have anything he can point to where it has been explained.

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