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debentureboy said:   You could pull and then push from our fave, Alliant.
Do they support automatic scheduled pull and push?

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Yes, for up to 99 periods (days, weeks, months)

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During the application process, Alliant asked which state I lived in when I was one-year old! I must have answered that question wrong because my application was not instantly approved.

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JxxB said:   We've used the UPromise cards for 20 years...That's impressive, considering UPromise has only been around for 13.

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Wow, I hope you aren't the regular welcome wagon in this thread. You are correct, so I'm sorry I didn't research my facts better. Didn't realize this "flame free" thread required such due diligence on a trivial point. My intent was that we had stuck with the same card religiously for many, many years and hadn't paid attention to current developments.

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You're right, this is the "WELCOME NEW USERS" thread. But you're not a "new" user
JxxB said:   I just wondered what other benefits are our there, what other secondary benefits we might consider. For instance, our current card has "price protection", although we've never bothered with it. No annual fee is pretty much a must. So what are the main benefits and then what other "nice to haves" might one consider?There was a recent thread here on credit card benefits. It didn't get a lot of attention, but my answer is there. I don't think we have a primer, although there was an attempt here.

This question doesn't come up often enough, and because these benefits vary so much, it would probably be difficult to create a good summary. The benefits differ from one person to another even for the same exact credit card from the same bank. The higher tier Visa and Mastercard benefits are also not the same across different accounts -- one Visa Signature is not the same as all Visa Signatures. Some of the bigger issuers (Chase, Citi, Amex) have made the card benefits downloadable for your specific card, so that'll be the best source of information for you.

From my experience, the premium cards (with an annual fee) usually have better benefits than the free cards -- longer claim periods and higher reimbursement limits for purchases, better benefits overall for travel, etc.

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Thank you for the help!

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Rollover IRA and recharaterization question.

I know the rule for how long to wait going from rollover IRA to Roth, then recharacterizing, then wanting to convert to Roth again but what is the rule if you then want to take said rollover IRA after recharacterizing and roll into a 401k? Next tax year? 1 year from the date? Right away?

Here is the scenario: my wife had a rollover IRA that we converted to Roth IRA. She then was out of work so the lack of income made us realize we would not be able to pay the taxes in 2015 so we recharacterized. She now has a job (and it pushed us into a higher tax bracket) with a great 401k so I was wondering if we can now roll this rollover IRA to her 401k or do we have to wait a certain period of time.

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matrix5k said:   I signed a lease for an apartment a few months ago. I have to move out of state for work. I didn't expect this to happen. Management says it will cost 2 months rent to break lease. Is there anything I can do to get out of this?
Update: I asked nicely if I could work with them to avoid the fee of 2 months rent to break lease. I offered to advertise the unit and do the showings, and of course they would have to approve the new tenant. I found a tenant to sign a new 1 year lease for $25/mo more than what I paid. I saved myself a lot of money. Asking politely goes a long way.

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I'm trying to decide what is more hilarious

1) That in the age of google people still can't tell these pyramid schemes will no actually make them money

2) That the person chose Fatwallet to post this

3) That nobody has updates this part yet "Use Netscape or Internet Explorer and try searching for various newsgroups, on-line forums, message boards, bulletin boards, chat sites, discussions, discussion groups, online communities, etc. For example: you log on to any search engine like yahoo.com, google.com, altavista.com, excite.com"

I'm gonna go with #3. You just can't get search like altavista.com these days

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Flexible Spending Account Question
If my employer lets me have an FSA , but only I take up the medical insurance , can I still use the FSA card to pay for eligible expenses with my spouse or kids? (Spouse is covered through his insurance as are the kids)

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ivana said:   Flexible Spending Account Question
If my employer lets me have an FSA , but only I take up the medical insurance , can I still use the FSA card to pay for eligible expenses with my spouse or kids? (Spouse is covered through his insurance as are the kids)

I have asked HR at a couple different companies about this and have gotten conflicting answers. That said, when my wife was on her own insurance, I submitted receipts for her expenses and was reimbursed without a problem. YMMV.

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thank you

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I got a BT offer for my Chase Freedom card - 0% APR until 2/2016. My Freedom card only has a CL of $3500.I want to pay some of my 6.55% student loans.

I have an old Chase AARP card with CL of $8600. Will Chase allow me to move the $8600 over to the Freedom card and use the same balance transfer offer? Will I risk being blacklisted if I did the balance transfer?

Also, I have a balance of $12,355 (CL $13,500) sitting on a Chase Slate card that has 0% APR until July 2015. I used this card to pay tuition last year.

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I've been able to transfer CL with Chase.

Your $12K/$13K is very high utilization. I recommend getting that paid down quickly to avoid AA.

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Thanks. Do you think I should transfer CL from AARP card ($8600) to Slate to decrease utilization?

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matrix -- I think it's time for more details -- Which (total) cards do you have and what are the CLs? Average age of accounts? (how long have you had the cards) What is your FICO (or FAKO if you don't have FICO)? What other loans do you have -- rates, balances, terms? Annual income? Still in school -- how long, expected increase in salary?

In general, yes, I think you should transfer CL to your Slate or take some other action to get your UT down on your Slate. You can probably talk this over with the Chase CSR if Chase is your only creditor beyond the student loans. I like to keep my 0% BT money at 49% UT or less if I'm able to. This isn't a hard and fast rule for me, but a goal. You may not have enough total CL to do this, so maybe have one card at 49% and others higher.

Do you have a plan for repaying this stuff or refinancing? If you are relying on rolling 0% BT money to keep this going, this is a bit of a risk. I'm not trying to discourage you, I'm trying to make sure you have a plan, a backup plan and then an oh-s*** plan. If your credit score drops, the CC environment changes or whatever else happens, this could blow up fast. Your student loan rate will look really good compared to an 18% CC rate... Again, I'm not trying to discourage you, just wanting to make sure you can handle things if they blow up.

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Thanks debentureboy, actually I could have posted this question in this thread I made a few weeks ago:http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1406749/

I will update that thread with all the information you asked about to keep it less cluttered here.

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I'm glad to see this thread. brand-new to fatwallet and referred by a friend. Honestly only joining because I'm having problems with a bank. They closed my credit card about 6 weeks ago. First, they sent me an email telling me to stop using the card immediately. When I called and asked why, was not provided with any responses. All I got was "fraud concerns". Had been using the card to earn cash rewards. About a week ago, got a certified letter in the mail stating the rewards I had earned and that the manner in which I earned them constituted a violation of the cardholder terms and condition. They are telling me to pay back those rewards. Should I ignore, pay, or what? Is that even legal?

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cheapjewfromhebron said:   I'm glad to see this thread. brand-new to fatwallet and referred by a friend. Honestly only joining because I'm having problems with a bank. They closed my credit card about 6 weeks ago. First, they sent me an email telling me to stop using the card immediately. When I called and asked why, was not provided with any responses. All I got was "fraud concerns". Had been using the card to earn cash rewards. About a week ago, got a certified letter in the mail stating the rewards I had earned and that the manner in which I earned them constituted a violation of the cardholder terms and condition. They are telling me to pay back those rewards. Should I ignore, pay, or what? Is that even legal?
What were the type of transactions that you made to get those rewards?

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mostly reloadits and other prepaid cards that I used to make bill payments back to my cc. Made me about $1K a month in profit or so

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cheapjewfromhebron said:   mostly reloadits and other prepaid cards that I used to make bill payments back to my cc. Made me about $1K a month in profit or so
Well ... is this a violation of your cardholder terms and conditions?

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Yes, but that wasn't my point. They are actually coming after me and I was wondering if anyone had experienced the same and can offer any advice or suggestions.

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Help: Don't mean to interrupt an ongoing discussion but I'm new to fatwallet and noticed this "Welcome new User" thread so I figured I ask here. I used a SunTrust checking account and related debit card for about 2 years to get some frequent flier points. Did quite a bit by buying items that aren't supposed to yield miles per the terms and condition. Guess SunTrust figured it out and closed my account about three months ago. Nothing unexpected. However, they are holding on to my money and despite various calls of mine won't send me my money back. Where should I go with this issue?

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$1,000 a month from a single bank is a lot. You might try the Flyertalk forum as there are more heavy hitters that are willing to share there.

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So, at 2% rewards rate (after accounting for the purchase fee on the prepaids) means you made over 50k in transactions a month on this single card? Wow.

Of course they can come after you. You got points doing transactions that are against the terms and conditions, so if they sue you you will lose for sure. Now how likely are they to sue you? No idea.

My advice is kind of lame: pay back what they are asking you to pay back, and then move on. In the future, choose a different bank (you will likely be blacklisted by the current bank anyway), do smaller amounts, split up between banks, purchase the prepaids at the same time as other purchases etc.

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Not exactly. My rewards rate is higher and my volume is lower. There's no way I could do 50K a month.I took Calwatch's advice and posted on flyertalk. They seemed to have confused me with someone else and shut me down for being a troll..... These folks don't get it: You can learn from these sites anonymously and do this stuff for years without ever signing up and posting anything, so when they notice someone new (or should I say unknown to them...) they think it can't be legit.....

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cheapjewfromhebron said:   Not exactly. My rewards rate is higher and my volume is lower. There's no way I could do 50K a month.I took Calwatch's advice and posted on flyertalk. They seemed to have confused me with someone else and shut me down for being a troll..... These folks don't get it: You can learn from these sites anonymously and do this stuff for years without ever signing up and posting anything, so when they notice someone new (or should I say unknown to them...) they think it can't be legit.....
Any time you post a question that's short on details, people tend to bristle.

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don't think my being short was the issue on flyertalk in my opinion. Those folks just couldn't believe that there were other HHs out there who never signed up and posted in the past. That's the arrogance of ignorance....

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