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gwu1986
- Senior Member - 1K
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posted: Jan. 2, 2008 @ 9:30p
toomuch2do2day said:What do the financial minds here consider to be a "good score" when it comes to mortgage rates?Some lenders look for >680 FICO, other lenders look for 720-750. I think a "good score" would be 720+ FICO. (Assuming 80 LTV, good DTI, etc.) |
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abbygayle65
- Senior Member
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posted: Jan. 2, 2008 @ 10:09p
posted in old thread before it closed, but still looking: What is GROUP term life insurance? I am a member of the NEA and they offer group term life through prudential. Does the GROUP part just mean that it would be a supposed preferred rate just for NEA members ("the group")? i called the 800 number to ask, but the lady was pretty clueless. |
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LongDongSilver
- Senior Member - 3K
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 2:37a
When you are looking to lease a new car, is the car salesman obligated to give you the money factor and residual value/percentage in the lease calculation when asked? |
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therivler1
- Senior Member - 1K
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 11:40a
Anybody know of some good resources on how to deal with your car insurance company if your car is totaled? I was in an accident this morning (everyone was OK), but I am sure that my car is totaled. Is there any room for negotiation past their initial offer? Is it a waste of time? Thanks! |
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ClaimsGuy
- Senior Member
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 12:42p
If you think the number is low do your own market survey. Go to Autotrader and see what cars like yours are going for in say a 200 mile radius. See if the average price is close to the value your ins co is offering. Send them the documentation if needed. |
Message edited by: ClaimsGuy on 2008-01-03 12:42:56 CST
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trexlersp
- Member
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 1:01p
I am a grad student who has recently come into some money and don't know how to invest it. I know that it depends on the person, but I just want any opinions anyone might have. Assets: $250,000 cash $400,000 non-liquid (I am keeping this where it is for the foreseeable future) I own my car and rent a condo.
Like I said, I am in Grad School and am not working, so I have expenses that will either be covered by student loans or by using this money. I have 1.5 years left in school, then I will likely have a decent job. Option 1: Keep all $250,000 in safe investments such as Ing Checking (4.7%) and Money market accounts. Option 2: Keep $100,000 in Ing Checking, and invest the rest in riskier funds, and possibly stocks. I know there are a lot of different answers to this scenario, so tell me what you think.  Thanks! |
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mysteryAgain
- Member
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 1:04p
I want to start investing in mutual funds and need some sort of directions: banks to consider, fees, risks. I am looking at this right now -https://www.usaa.com/inet/imco_mutualfund/ImMutualFunds?FundGroup=AA, but would like to invest via a bigger bank. Please suggest. Thanks |
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Glitch99
- Senior Member - 5K
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 1:52p
trexlersp said:I am a grad student who has recently come into some money and don't know how to invest it. I know that it depends on the person, but I just want any opinions anyone might have.
Assets: $250,000 cash $400,000 non-liquid (I am keeping this where it is for the foreseeable future)
I own my car and rent a condo.
Like I said, I am in Grad School and am not working, so I have expenses that will either be covered by student loans or by using this money. I have 1.5 years left in school, then I will likely have a decent job.
Option 1: Keep all $250,000 in safe investments such as Ing Checking (4.7%) and Money market accounts.
Option 2: Keep $100,000 in Ing Checking, and invest the rest in riskier funds, and possibly stocks.
I know there are a lot of different answers to this scenario, so tell me what you think. 
Thanks!Figure out how much you are going to need until you get a job, and keep that much in a liquid savings/checking account (5%+ rate). Then take the remainder and look at longer-term investment. Not necessarily riskier investments (your risk tollerence is something only you can decide), but something with potentially better returns - long-term CDs, bonds, real estate, index funds, individual stocks, etc. |
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Gizzle
- Senior Member
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 5:39p
I recently had a CD mature with my local bank. 5.85% for 9 months I believe so I was happy it was with the bank that I've been using for 10+ years. Over the holidays my CD matured while I was on vacation and the 7 day grace period elapsed 12/29/07. Needless to say I was on holiday the whole time and I'm not happy as I knew that 5.85% was a special they were having. I emailed customer service to see if there was any way out and I was unsure on the grace period because I didn't know if it was 7 busines days or just 7 consecutive days. It was the latter. My question is, they told me an early withdrawl penalty of $361 would be imposed if I were to close today. I JUST found out my new CD has an apr of 2.72% and an apy of 2.75%. If I were to withdrawl the ~27k in there and put it into say the fnbo 5.25% 9 month cd, or the CountryWide 5.50% 6 month CD and take the penalty would it make sense monetarily? I don't know how to figure this out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm also really pissed that there is a 10month CD (1 month longer) with the same other terms at 4.85%. To be honest, I'd take the 4.85% 10month and call it a day, but to drop from 5.85 to 2.75 while on vacation.... I wasn't happy! Thanks |
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jayK
- Senior Member - JayK
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 6:13p
Gizzle said:My question is, they told me an early withdrawl penalty of $361 would be imposed if I were to close today. I JUST found out my new CD has an apr of 2.72% and an apy of 2.75%. If I were to withdrawl the ~27k in there and put it into say the fnbo 5.25% 9 month cd, or the CountryWide 5.50% 6 month CD and take the penalty would it make sense monetarily? $27K earning 2.75% for 9 months would yield $557 ($27000 * 2.75% * 9/12), or $446 after taxes (assume 20% tax). $27K earning 5.25% for 9 months would yield $1063, or $850 after taxes. Subtract $14 for lost interest on the $361 penalty, and you end up with $836, for a difference of $390. The increased interest would be ~$30 more than the penalty. |
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icesword791
- Frivolous Member
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 10:27p
This seems to have been asked, but the answers are almost always flames, so I'm still curious about the answer. I'm a college student, and looking to deposit some savings (roughly 3-4000$) into a decent bank account. Ideally, this is going to be a decent yield 5% or above. However, a lot of the accounts require some sort of direct deposit or ACH. My job doesn't do direct deposits right now, so I have no way of getting in that quota of at least direct deposit every month that so many banks seem to want. Is there any way I can set it up such that I can deposit into my own account a trivial amount of money from another account or something? On that vein of thinking, what are some great ways to build credit from...well...nothing ? |
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damdaman
- Member
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 10:40p
In order to learn more about the stock market, I signed up for two of those free simulation contests. It has made me research a little bit on stocks. But, where do some people go to get information? I read motley fool, fortune and msn money articles on stocks in 2008. It at least got me started. I also bought a few things that I like to use like Sirius. I hope to play these games this year and save up real money through the year to try it for real starting in January 2009. ANY good sites would be appreciated. I have been trying to do a crash course since January 1st but work seems to get in the way  |
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kevinsalvo
- New Member
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posted: Jan. 3, 2008 @ 10:58p
frugalwallet said:First off, I've read through like every forum on here but a lot of the pertinent information is outdated; from 2004 and 2005.
I'm trying to open a Roth IRA inexpensively. I want Free DRIP, free automatic debit from my BofA checking account to the IRA at an amount of $50 every 2 weeks (Payday), I also want a very low initial investment, like $250-500 NOT $2500-$3000 like Vanguard or Fidelity. I would like to be investing in Vanguard or Fidelity indexes until I get around $10k to try other investment options, but cannot afford their initial amounts. I don't mind owning just 1 fund for now until I amass more money to work with. Is there anything like this out there??? It seems that every place I look, I cannot find all of these options. Either I can open an account with Free DRIP, but must deposit like $500 minimum and cannot do an automatic investment plan monthly from my paycheck. I don't necessarily mind paying for actual trades, but I don't want to pay a Lot. So far I've looked into Merrill, Morgan, T. Rowe, Scottrade, Ameritrade, going directly to Vanguard or Fidelity, and a few others. I really would like to go directly with Vanguard right now but don't have the $3000 initial investment.
I've looked into ING funds, but don't like their performance at all. I'd rather keep my money building in their savings for the time being until I get the $3k to open with vanguard.
Background: My financial status is decent. I'm 25 years old. I have around $11k in 401k, maxing out my employer contribution each paycheck. I also have my 6 month safety net in case I lose my job. I have a separate account tucked away that I contribute regularly to, for my first time home purchase. But I would like to be able to put $100 away in an IRA right now until I can get that up to $200 a month. (I have a guaranteed raise in June that will enable that to happen.) Right now I have an ING account titled, Roth IRA, where I have them deduct $50 from each paycheck. But that's just one of their saver accounts and there's only $250 in it.
Any ideas???
I'm specifically looking for Roth IRAs that could hold Index Mutual Funds and maybe eventually place a stock, option or futures trade down the road. If I have to open a separate brokerage account down the road for the stock, option or futures trade, then I’ll do so. but right now, I'm hoping for a cheap, easy, beginner Roth account that will let me build up. I've seen Fidelity's Simple Start as well as T. Rowe Price's Smart Choice but I'm not all about those for some reason. I wish Vanguard had one. Maybe i should call their CEO? hahaha. Yeah, that'd work. I was in a similar situation just a month ago -- although I had a bit more money to work with. I ended up opening a ROTH thru Bank of America ... its pretty straight forward and I feel relatively easy. They have tons of no load no fee mutual funds you can invest in, or you can invest in stock once you get above a certain amount. |
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Glitch99
- Senior Member - 5K
rated:
posted: Jan. 4, 2008 @ 12:41a
icesword791 said:This seems to have been asked, but the answers are almost always flames, so I'm still curious about the answer.
I'm a college student, and looking to deposit some savings (roughly 3-4000$) into a decent bank account. Ideally, this is going to be a decent yield 5% or above. However, a lot of the accounts require some sort of direct deposit or ACH. My job doesn't do direct deposits right now, so I have no way of getting in that quota of at least direct deposit every month that so many banks seem to want. Is there any way I can set it up such that I can deposit into my own account a trivial amount of money from another account or something?
On that vein of thinking, what are some great ways to build credit from...well...nothing ?Yes, alot of accounts requiring 'direct deposit' to waive fees will count any electronic transaction. But any of the high-yield savings accounts like Etrade and Countrywide have no requirement. The requirement applies more to basic checking accounts (and is sometimes a requirement of promotional bonuses). You should be able to find a free checking account without a problem, then link it to your high-yield savings account. To build 'credit from nothing', just open a couple new accounts (start with a couple store accounts, then after a few months a couple regular credit cards, etc), use them once in a while (and pay off during the grace period - no need to pay any interest), and PAY YOUR BILLS ON TIME. Once you get a couple accounts open, PAYING YOUR BILLS ON TIME is what will build a good history (and prevent you from building a bad history). Follow this, add a couple new accounts every few months, and KEEP PAYING YOUR BILLS ON TIME, and you'll be in a strong position in 2-3 years. |
Message edited by: Glitch99 on 2008-01-04 00:42:27 CST
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asdf9876
- Happy Member
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posted: Jan. 4, 2008 @ 8:57a
Does anyone know how to freeze Experian credit reports? I've seen people talk about it but when it came to the details it was because their state that had some specific law that forced experiean to let them. I live in CA if that helps. Also I have had no fraudulent activity. |
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therivler1
- Senior Member - 1K
rated:
posted: Jan. 4, 2008 @ 9:00a
icesword791 said:I'm a college student, and looking to deposit some savings (roughly 3-4000$) into a decent bank account. Ideally, this is going to be a decent yield 5% or above. However, a lot of the accounts require some sort of direct deposit or ACH. My job doesn't do direct deposits right now, so I have no way of getting in that quota of at least direct deposit every month that so many banks seem to want. Is there any way I can set it up such that I can deposit into my own account a trivial amount of money from another account or something?? See this thread: OFFICIAL Banks That Count ING/Paypal/ACH Push Transfers as Direct Deposits |
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tookmuhjerb
- Member
rated:
posted: Jan. 4, 2008 @ 10:36a
I would like to get a credit report + credit score this month, however, Google is loaded with webpages and they all look like a scam to me. Can anybody recommend a good/cheap service so I can check my score? thanks |
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sherrynews
- Member
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posted: Jan. 4, 2008 @ 10:36a
Is there a FW insurance (homeowner's/car/renter's) thread/info? |
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sherrynews
- Member
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posted: Jan. 4, 2008 @ 10:51a
tookmuhjerb asked about his credit score - Remember, you only get to see A credit score -- not THE credit score a bank/employer/insurer etc. may use to gouge you. The monitoring requirements when you sign up for the "free" sites can be tricky to cancel -- be sure you check other's posts on any provider you choose to see that you do not end up with charges you did not expect. Also, many of the "free" sites jumble your actual data then offer to sell you clarifications -- NONE of which gives you the complete -- NOR more importantly the weighting data (that is the importance and highlighting of items in your history) that are part of THE secret credit score the big firms sell to the bank/employer/insurer's. Still other sites have printing/save restrictions --- so you may want to be sure your printscreen/scrolling functions work if you want to more closely look at the info you are buying. Of course I may be guilty of an assumption -- you are doing this for some form of tangible financial goal and not merely interested in what the blessed folks in North Dakota and Delaware think of you personally. They appreciate you paying them to work on the info they sell about you. Tookmuhjerb - you are right that they are all a scam. Lay back and endure. Did you really expect an industry that swore for decades that FICO scores did not exist and were never used for credit (let alone employment or insurance) -- to come clean and actually let you see how they gouge you. A rapist would sooner buy his victim dinner AFTER. |
Message edited by: sherrynews on 2008-01-04 11:27:50 CST
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thedealdude
- Tired Member
rated:
posted: Jan. 4, 2008 @ 11:24a
Hey ya'll - I just paid a significant credit card balance off with Citi...how long before that payment is reflected on the credit score? |
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