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Reward Checking Accounts - Issues and Discussion Thread

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I can post that these post office transactions are coded and most of the time a rewards credit card will not pay on them...so maybe this is not a profitable transaction at all for the bank in a rewards checking account, even if they count it.

Indeed this would be a good way to use up 10 transactions if the bank does not care. I prefer for the bank to define what I must do, instead of judging me an unprofitable customer and closing my account without warning.

ES

flwsoldier said:Has anyone had success meeting the 10 point-of-sale requirement by buying stamps out of the new kiosks inside post offices? please post, if so.

Thanks

Message edited by: ElectricSavant on 2008-07-27 10:24:05 CDT
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Clearly if you want the good rates to last on *your* bank's reward checking account, you should not be racking up $1 purchases. Spending $150/month on debit instead of on a 1% CashBack credit card, you are only losing ~$18/year in CashBack. ($27 @1.5%. $36 @2%.) These rewards accounts get at least 2% APY above the best non-rewards accounts. With that extra 2%, you will earn back $20 on your first $1000. Balances beyond that are pure profit. You can afford to make some real purchases in order to keep these rates in effect.

How about we brainstorm some other small purchases that


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So how about we brainstorm some other small purchases that you would really make every month?
I have trouble getting above 10. I don't make too many purchases under $50.

Some thoughts... movie rentals (NetFlix subscription, Redbox.com, ...), audio books (Audible), movie tickets (at theater, at Fandango), purchasing or adding balances to gift cards (Walgreens, Costco, ...)

Has anyone tried any of those? Other ideas?


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duplicate

Message edited by: doublegammon on 2008-07-29 20:00:00 CDT
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doublegammon said:So how about we brainstorm some other small purchases that you would really make every month?
I have trouble getting above 10. I don't make too many purchases under $50.

Some thoughts... movie rentals (NetFlix subscription, Redbox.com, ...), audio books (Audible), movie tickets (at theater, at Fandango), purchasing or adding balances to gift cards (Walgreens, Costco, ...)

Has anyone tried any of those? Other ideas?

Cat food. $4 generic prescription drugs. Fresh fruit (buy every few days so it doesn't rot). Milk. Bread (you do bring your lunch to work, don't you?). Stop at grocery store on your way to work Monday am and pick up 6-pack of soda or green tea or whatever (or beer, but that's to drink after work).


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doublegammon said:So how about we brainstorm some other small purchases that you would really make every month?
Other ideas?

citi identitymonitor
renters insurance (if they allow you to pay monthly)


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doublegammon said:Clearly if you want the good rates to last on *your* bank's reward checking account, you should not be racking up $1 purchases. Spending $150/month on debit instead of on a 1% CashBack credit card, you are only losing ~$18/year in CashBack. ($27 @1.5%. $36 @2%.) These rewards accounts get at least 2% APY above the best non-rewards accounts. With that extra 2%, you will earn back $20 on your first $1000. Balances beyond that are pure profit. You can afford to make some real purchases in order to keep these rates in effect.

How about we brainstorm some other small purchases that

If you're correct that spending $150/month on debit card purchases each month will make the good rate last on your Reward Checking account, then why would the FI care where those purchases came from? For example, add up your phone bill, cable/satellite TV bill, water bill, garbage bill, etc. Is the total $150? If so, and the payees accept multiple credit card payments, you're set. Split the payments among your payees to give you the minimum required number of transactions, and you've met the requirements, without leaving your house.

I'd guess that most people could find $150 of bills each month that allow payment by credit card at the payees' web sites, and allow multiple payments. If not, then split the payments anyway to get the required number of transactions, and then make one or two transactions at the grocery store in order to bring the total up to $150.

IOW, I don't see why one would have to take a lot of time and trouble to make 10 or 12 in-person purchases a month in order to meet the transaction requirement of their Reward Checking account, unless that was a stated type of transaction you had to make, e.g. a PIN-based transaction. I believe those PIN-based transactions are less profitable to the FI than signature-based transactions, which is probably why many Reward Checking accounts specifically say that the transactions must be signature-based in order to meet the transaction requirement.

Message edited by: glxpass on 2008-07-29 23:59:28 CDT
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Who knows what is required for them to sustain these rates, but $1 purchases and partial payments are (1) clearly artificial compliance, (2) a red flag, (3) 10x the loss as $10 payments, (4) set up no useful, lasting relationship with the bank, (5) unreal / artificial spending data. Real payments give them real information about your purchases and a real relationship, which may have some value in aggregate to them at no cost to you. And real payments will be several times larger than the BS payments being suggested here.


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Ten - 12 in-person purchases a month are only a problem if you have multiple multiple accounts. With only one or two rewards accounts, it's easy to buy groceries, pick up cat food, pay for lunch and other you-have-to-do-it-anyway type purchases. Then push in enough $$ to cover your purchases and fulfill the direct deposit requirement and you're all set.


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I wouldn't think small purchases would be such trouble for most people either, but the discussion in this thread seems to be making a lot of trouble out of it: $1 gifts to charity, splitting up utility bill payments, making extra store visits for the sake of single item purchases... Such a hassle and stingy.

I don't want to resort to such stinginess, but I only make about 1 small POS purchase a week, mostly at small shops where I couldn't or wouldn't want to use a debit card. Most of my POS shopping is at a farmer's market or Costco. I do not make stops for single items, except for ice-cream.

Only in my dreams do my household bills total only $150. They are all above $50 each. Anyway, they are already automated. I would change them if I were guaranteed that rate for a good length of time. Otherwise too much hassle.

Other low-cost purchases?... photo printing, garden supplies, pizza. Thanks for the suggestions so far. Would love to think of something I could set up for weekly automatic payments.


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glxpass said:I believe those PIN-based transactions are less profitable to the FI than signature-based transactions, which is probably why many Reward Checking accounts specifically say that the transactions must be signature-based in order to meet the transaction requirement.Definitely. Pin-based for me are a flat $0.30 while signature-based are $0.25 + a percentage ranging from 1.64% on a standard card up to 3.79% on a premium rewards card.


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TyroneSchulace said:Definitely. Pin-based for me are a flat $0.30 while signature-based are $0.25 + a percentage ranging from 1.64% on a standard card up to 3.79% on a premium rewards card.
Are you a merchant? They charge merchants more if the card is a rewards card?


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doublegammon said:Are you a merchant? They charge merchants more if the card is a rewards card?Yeah, more on rewards cards, biz cards, corp fleet cards. I'm not at the front, so I don't see exactly the cards, but I've test-run a few. Last time I looked, there were at least 9 categories of V/MC, 3 AMX rates, and 1 or 2 Discover. But every debit card was the same. That's what makes me wonder about FAB&T.


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Message edited by: lhendricks92 on 2008-07-30 15:17:10 CDT
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lhendricks92 said:Visa Interchange Fees

Mastercard Interchange Fees

It's quite a mess.
Well, that explains it. My bank pays a percentage of the debit cards to FAB&T, even though I don't. Either my merchant servicer or my bank is losing money on debit transactions and making it back on the credit transactions.


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doublegammon said:Who knows what is required for them to sustain these rates, but $1 purchases and partial payments are (1) clearly artificial compliance, (2) a red flag, (3) 10x the loss as $10 payments, (4) set up no useful, lasting relationship with the bank, (5) unreal / artificial spending data. Real payments give them real information about your purchases and a real relationship, which may have some value in aggregate to them at no cost to you. And real payments will be several times larger than the BS payments being suggested here.
You can define your points however arbitrarily you like, but I see $150/month as just a guess on your part, unless you have some evidence to back it up with. 2% of $150 is a whole $3, not very much to offset all the interest the FI is paying you.

If you want to make a Reward Checking account a true checking account, then treat it like one. Otherwise, you're gaming the system, making "BS payments" just like those "stingy" people of which admittedly I'm one. You're simply hiding your BS payments under the guise of plausible purchases, and limiting the number of those purchases. If you want a real relationship with a FI, don't only treat the Reward Checking account as a true checking account, but also get other products from the FI in addition to the Reward Checking account.

It doesn't take much of a guess as to why Reward Checking rates have fallen, just like other deposit account rates. It's been said before: the Federal Funds Rate is at 2%. In July 2007, it was 5.25%. Although spending around $1.00 per transaction doesn't help, spending $150/month doesn't even come close to filling that gap.

Although it's fine to figure out how to make small purchases that meet your standards, please don't be hypocritical about what consitutes artificial compliance and a useful, lasting relationship with an FI. Thanks.

ETA: I realize what I've said comes across as harsh, but I'm aware of only 1 FI so far that has made an issue out of $1.00 transactions. Naturally, if this becomes a trend, I'm willing to adjust my thinking on this matter. In any event, I won't digress from this discussion any further.

See X35's post in this thread for an excellent analysis of what it would take to make a Reward Checking account profitable to an FI. Hint: the monthly spend is much more that $150.

Message edited by: glxpass on 2008-07-30 20:07:22 CDT
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Call me whatever adjectives you like. Doesn't change the fact that there is a substantive difference between charging purchases you normally make anyway and creating $1 payments by dividing up larger ones. I am willing to use their debit card for my genuine small purchases if it meets their requirements. Setting those requirements is up to them. Upping the requirements is different than expecting people to make normal charges, not artificially small ones. Personally, I would not be willing to use a debit card for large purchases, not just because of the cash-back, but because debit cards do not offer the same protections as credit cards. If making large purchases becomes a requirement, these accounts will not work for me no matter how good the interest rate. (Unless they also change the protections governing debit cards.)

edit: grammar

Message edited by: doublegammon on 2008-07-30 21:49:40 CDT
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Glxpass, I am not being a hypocrite. I am not deliberately limiting the number of my purchases. On the contrary, I posted in order to get help coming up with more of them... I was quite forthright about having a limit on what *size* of purchases I am willing to make on a debit card (and to whom). As I said, I do not make many small purchases at large retail establishments. And I won't use a debit card for large purchases for several reasons, the most irrevocable being protections. My only alternative is to start making more small purchases, or adding some regularity to the ones that I do make. That's why I asked for help brainstorming, right?
edit: grammar

Message edited by: doublegammon on 2008-07-30 22:05:19 CDT
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doublegammon,

I'm no more calling you a hypocrite than you are calling me stingy. For reasons I've stated -- that of course you're free to disagree with -- I felt that some of the statements you made were hypocritical. We don't know each other well enough for actual name-calling.

Personally, I'm not convinced that the type of purchases one makes has any effect on the longevity of a Reward Checking rate. Again, I'll spare you from repeating my reasoning. We all have different comfort levels about how to handle these accounts. I understand (I hope) your comfort level better now. You want to use your debit card for "normal" transactions.

So how about instead of statements debating the value of our respective approaches, such as:

I wouldn't think small purchases would be such trouble for most people either, but the discussion in this thread seems to be making a lot of trouble out of it: $1 gifts to charity, splitting up utility bill payments, making extra store visits for the sake of single item purchases... Such a hassle and stingy.

I don't want to resort to such stinginess, but I only make about 1 small POS purchase a week, mostly at small shops where I couldn't or wouldn't want to use a debit card.

you focus on gathering suggestions for using the debit card in a manner that makes you more comfortable?

BTW, I agree with your concerns about debit card usage. Ironically, making signature-based transactions with your debit card (i.e. using it as a credit card) generally makes you liable for $0 with Visa and MasterCard, even though fraudulent activity is currently more prevalent that way than fraudulent activity associated with PIN-based transactions, which generally offer you less liability protection.


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glxpass said:
BTW, I agree with your concerns about debit card usage. Ironically, making signature-based transactions with your debit card (i.e. using it as a credit card) generally makes you liable for $0 with Visa and MasterCard, even though fraudulent activity is currently more prevalent that way than fraudulent activity associated with PIN-based transactions, which generally offer you less liability protection.

When the laws about liability were written, PIN based transactions were pretty much done only to get cash out of ATMs, I think. Cash is the first choice of thieves and fraudsters, and getting value out of fraudulently acquired cash isn't nearly as cumbersome as getting value out of fraudulently acquired store purchases, so I guess the focus was on pushing more liability on customers in the case where the fraudulent transaction could be executed a lot quicker by the thief, making quick reporting more important, and where the customer was the first one who was going to learn about the theft.


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