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SecondCor521’s Somewhat-Less-Lazy-O-Rama A0R 2.0 – March 4, 2008 Archived From: Finance

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win333 said:Library cards, Good one. That's the number I thought I was supposed to put

I can't get over how many UPSTANDING/HONEST citizens we have here, how sweet. Show me the law that says, I must provide my DL to a bank and If the number isn't correct I'll go to jail for fraud. We aren't stealing!

So many people have been brainwashed their entire life, TC says B* is FRAUD. So you better not do that either, I guess doing 30 or 40 apps in an hour isn't fraud either huh? You know what your doing and you still do it.

When people have LIMITED understanding of how the system works, they make STUPID assumptions.

I guess you think **income** is just the number on your pay check right?

I think i'm going to start putting in my lease that *not paying your rent is fraud*, I bet they'll be scared to death and pay early.

Give me 7 hail marries and I might forgive you.

Sorry OP I couldn't resist


When TC tells me I can subscribe to their service and pull my credit as often as once every 24 hours for the fees I pay them, and I do, that is abiding by the terms of our arrangement, not fraud, regardless of what TC might say.

Income is the total amount of household income I can document. That includes W-2 income, business income, interest income, my wife's paychecks, dividends and anything else that brings in money that could theoretically be used to repay the debts in the future. However, I get the sense that some folks on FW are pulling a number out of the air or inflating their HHI arbitrarily to get better terms or a higher CL. That is fraud.

When you knowingly put down any false information in a contract or on a form and then sign it to deceive the other party and benefit financially, that is fraud.

However, when banks offer anyone in the public the chance to apply for a financial product, and you or I elect to take up 40 banks on that offer on the same day, that is playing not only within the law but by the rules. They all have the right to use all the information they can muster to accept or deny my application, to decide whether to do business with us. All just business. Then, after the fact, if they pull our credit and decide we have too much outstanding debt, they can modify the terms, which we agreed to when we signed up with them.

Also, not paying your rent is breach of contract, not fraud.

I don't mean to be preachy, but I think people who use deceptive practices here are the exception and not the rule, and I'd like to see it stay that way. Remember, the way you celebrate says a lot about you and reflects on your school. So take care of yourself and your friends.

A message from VanceWade.


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Best of luck OP.

Regarding that HELOC offer you are checking out: The disclosure seems to imply 100% CLTV at a rate of Prime - .25%, but it doesn't really say both apply at the same time, IE: they say CLTV "as high as" 100% and rate "as low as" Prime - .25%, they don't say that both hold true at the same time.

I would be surprised if they didn't charge well over Prime for a 100% CLTV Heloc, and only gave the prime -.25% for 80% CLTV. I would check with them to find out what their rate is for a CLTV you plan on getting (100%??) And then compare to penfed's HELOC offering.

If penfed's Heloc rate is competitive with other offerings in the market, you'd be better off sticking with them IMO, because they already have your tribureau credit pull on record for your primary mortgage, and they could just re-use that, and also they could coordinate "in-house" closing both your primary mortgage and Heloc together.

--------------------------------

Also, adding up your starting personal credit lines, I get $387k, which is more than 3 x a "low six figure" HHI. It is going to be interesting to see which issuers for the personal accounts give out more, and which ones (if any) get spooked.

Best of luck!


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T+00 05:00:00

I adjusted the list a little more before starting. I finished up most of phases 1 through 5 about 2AM EST. I updated the Quick Summary with the results that I thought most people would be interested in, and I'll update the rest as time permits.

Various comments on the results:

1. Getting all this easy money sure is a lot of work!
2. I don't know what to make of the pattern of instant approvals, except to think that there do seem to be separate credit buckets. Various folks recommended the Citi Hilton and AM3X Starwood; I think those cards might represent different credit buckets within the same issuer.
3. Almost all apps were deferred, which I expected.
4. I'm quite pleased that I only got one instant decline. That means I did a good job (with your help, FWF!) of avoiding at least the stupid declines due to issuer policies.
5. Phone apps are a waste of time unless they're a really juicy offer. Although you can pretty easily be applying online for the next card while the phone CSR drones on about the privacy policy or the interest rate disclosures or whatever.
6. Roboform was surprisingly a lot less helpful than I remember it being last time around. I had to correct data in several fields, it didn't fill in fields that I thought it ought to, and it fills in some fields a little too enthusiastically. I still like it, though, at least for not having my address or SSN typo'ed on the application.
7. Lots of issuers want to be able to communicate their credit decision via email.
8. In general, I tried to avoid requesting BT's with apps and did so unless my research indicated that a BT on the app was very likely to generate a large line. I requested four with the apps. I may have messed up on them as a result of trying to strategize after 2 hours of typing late at night:
..... a. I have a potential of $45K going to a Citi card with a $38,500 limit. I'm hoping either (a) this is not a problem with Citi, or (b) I can clear the BT's as they show up.
..... b. I have $30K going to my USAA card. I have read mixed reviews about USAA and credit balances. I had a positive experience with them with a credit balance just a week ago, so I'm hoping for good results. I'll either do a $30K cash advance and eat a few days interest or call USAA and plead stupidity/ignorance/mistake.
..... c. I only requested $15K with Advanta, even though their BT terms go for 15 months and they have a $90 fee. I'll either call them to ask them to increase it, or, more likely get a $2,500 limit like everyone else and cancel the BT altogether.
9. All things considered, it would have been better to do the apps early in the morning. I chose not to because I didn't want to take off any more time from work than I have lately and I wanted to fire things off before my new mortgage showed up on my credit report.
10. Several of the applications, most notably Citi and Hooters, did not work in Firefox but did work in IE.
11. After my original 35 planned applications, I scanned my list of discarded applications and decided to apply for a 36th card - the WA.MU ESPN card - even though others had reported low limits. Instantly approved for $15K. Go figure.

2Cor521


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Geez, I thought you gave up

77,000 instant, darn good job. I wouldn't worry about the cap1 decline, we know they only except 1 app every 45 days.

I thought hilton, starwood and Delta seem to be different credit buckets.

CITI Associates card, i've been thinking to add that to my AOR but I just noticed my CITI homerebate card shows on my credit report as **Assoc/CITI**. I wonder if thats the same?

The AORs that start like yours, end up kickin a$$. You are already at 40% of your goal of 200,000, good thing there's a credit crunch huh?


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win333 said:Geez, I thought you gave up

77,000 instant, darn good job. I wouldn't worry about the cap1 decline, we know they only except 1 app every 45 days.

I thought hilton, starwood and Delta seem to be different credit buckets.

CITI Associates card, i've been thinking to add that to my AOR but I just noticed my CITI homerebate card shows on my credit report as **Assoc/CITI**. I wonder if thats the same?

The AORs that start like yours, end up kickin a$$. You are already at 40% of your goal of 200,000, good thing there's a credit crunch huh?

win333,

Thanks!

I realized last night that, less than 5 hours into my second A0R, I've already got more in requested BT's ($100K) than I managed to get in total in 0% BT money in A0R 1.0.

You could have told me yesterday only one CapOne offer per 45 days yesterday!

Yeah, I think the "different buckets, same issuer" idea is a very good idea for us A0R folks to take advantage of.

By the way, my goal is actually $200K in new BT money, not just $200K in new credit. But yes, hopefully I am off to a good start...

2Cor521


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SecondCor521 said:A0R 2.0 Phase 3: HYSA-style Bank Accounts for BT Stash

B1 - Alliant Credit Union $5 min $100 to earn 4.35% APY
B2 - Shore Bank 4.15% APY
B3 - Vanguard Prime MM Fund VMMXX $3K minimum 3.84% APY

I realize you're quite busy right now but, would you consider CD's for 85% of your new BT cash? Let's assume $200,000 in total new BT $$$. $100,000 is for 6 months and $100,000 is for 12 months. Your strategy might look like this:

Type              $$$$$$$$$
MMA's             $30,000
4-5 month CD's    $90,000
10-11 month CD's  $80,000

You would keep $30,000 to make payments (and perhaps allow for an unexpected adverse action payoff). IMO, the CD's are likely to net you a higher return over 12 months than you will get with a str8 MMA.


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jackcrawfish said:SecondCor521 said:A0R 2.0 Phase 3: HYSA-style Bank Accounts for BT Stash

B1 - Alliant Credit Union $5 min $100 to earn 4.35% APY
B2 - Shore Bank 4.15% APY
B3 - Vanguard Prime MM Fund VMMXX $3K minimum 3.84% APY


I realize you're quite busy right now but, would you consider CD's for 85% of your new BT cash? Let's assume $200,000 in total new BT $$$. $100,000 is for 6 months and $100,000 is for 12 months. Your strategy might look like this:

Type              $$$$$$$$$
MMA's             $30,000
4-5 month CD's    $90,000
10-11 month CD's  $80,000




You would keep $30,000 to make payments (and perhaps allow for an unexpected adverse action payoff). IMO, the CD's are likely to net you a higher return over 12 months than you will get with a str8 MMA.

Yup, it's on my list after the dust settles to try to optimize the interest earned side of the equation in essentially the manner you describe.

ETA: If I were going to go through this sort of hassle for the extra yield, I'd strongly consider the high-yield checking accounts being bandied about here on FWF. For some people on FWF it might be a better choice. I've already decided against the checking account route as I'm not convinced they'll stay around long enough, and I don't want to hassle with properly timing that many debit card transactions.

2Cor521


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I looked back, I thought I did mention the cap1 but I guess not. No biggy, they just cancel it from the moment you send it, no INQ like some banks do.


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win333 said:I looked back, I thought I did mention the cap1 but I guess not. No biggy, they just cancel it from the moment you send it, no INQ like some banks do.

That's good to know. Even if they did pull an INQ, what's the real difference between 42 or 43 inquiries?

2Cor521


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jackcrawfish said:
I realize you're quite busy right now but, would you consider CD's for 85% of your new BT cash? Let's assume $200,000 in total new BT $$$. $100,000 is for 6 months and $100,000 is for 12 months. Your strategy might look like this:

Type              $$$$$$$$$
MMA's             $30,000
4-5 month CD's    $90,000
10-11 month CD's  $80,000




You would keep $30,000 to make payments (and perhaps allow for an unexpected adverse action payoff). IMO, the CD's are likely to net you a higher return over 12 months than you will get with a str8 MMA.

Well, the problem with CDs is that they usually are 6 month and 12 month long. There are very few "designed for AOR" 5 month and 11 month CDs ...


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SecondCor521 said:win333 said:I looked back, I thought I did mention the cap1 but I guess not. No biggy, they just cancel it from the moment you send it, no INQ like some banks do.

That's good to know. Even if they did pull an INQ, what's the real difference between 42 or 43 inquiries?

2Cor521

1 more experian or 1 less. Thats about it.


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cyberkost said:
Well, the problem with CDs is that they usually are 6 month and 12 month long. There are very few "designed for AOR" 5 month and 11 month CDs ...

I've seen several 5 month CDs but a HYSA typically has a better rate, ditto for 11 months. Just looking at the CD thread, the top 6 month is 4.5%. With an account at something like OneUnited you can get 4.6%. They even have a $50 bonus promo https://www.oneunited.com/2008/CICO/default.asp.

---

Correction, the 6 month 4.5 is down to 4.0. The next rate is 4.1, which is still valid for a 10K deposit.

---

http://www.fatwallet.com/t/52/803725

Just reading other thread... Interest compounded quarterly so not good for 5 month time period, as you'll only get 3 months.


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2Cor - I leave for travel for a few days and someone pops up with an A0R after my own heart - WTF?? I love your approach. I just summarized my similar A0R - 32 apps.

As to Citi, I wouldn't sweat it. I pushed $110K to my $2K CL Citi card. I had no problems doing BT directly into my checking account. I think I did almost $90K in my first A0R to the same card when it was a higher CL ~$30K. I did all of it online.

We had very similar instant decision numbers. I think your card selection is MUCH better. I did freeze EX and I dispute (current) EQ. I'm ready for another A0R! Might mirror yours (for non duplicative cards) as imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

Good luck!


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The citibank instant approval on the Associated Bank card may not have anything to do with buckets. It may be simply because it was the first (only?) fully personal citibank card you applied for.


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T+01 04:22:00

I'm going to try to post a daily update. I'll also keep updating the OP and QS as data arrives. References to "b1" and "27" and similar refer to the first bank account and the 27th credit card.

My day job, family, and social life all required attention today, so I didn't have all that much time to spend on my A0R. Fortunately, it was a relatively quiet day overall in A0R-ville.


Phase 1:

I actually ended up starting to apply for the HELOC from DCU and got cut off at 7:28 p.m. By the time I called back, they were closed. So I skipped it. Later, when opening the b1 Alliant CU account they said I also qualified for a no-fee HELOC as well as a Visa card with a $7,500 limit and no fees. I accepted both.


Phase 2:

2 - Received email from USBank saying I was declined. I found this somewhat surprising at first, but I think maybe USBank might be a 1-app-at-a-time-thank-you-very-much issuer. In retrospect I should have switched the order on the USBank cards and done the Baylor application first. Maybe I'll call and ask them to reconsider.

32 - Received email saying I was approved, and the limit would come with the card. I called Advanta and asked if they could tell me the limit, and they said their systems don't get new cards that fast. I could call back in a couple of days if I wanted.

No definitive word on any of the other deferrals.

I pulled my credit report via 24protectplus.com and myprivacymatters.com. I was somewhat surprised that there were only 12 new inquiries after 36 applications, 5 new bank accounts, and 7 hard pull credit limit increases yesterday. There were 2 TU, 9 EX, and 1 EQ. I don't get the individual inquiries via my credit pulling services, so I can't tell you which cards pulled which.


Phase 2A:

32 - In the same call inquiring about my limit, I asked Advanta about my BT and was informed that if BT < CL, BT would be processed; if BT > CL, BT would be canceled completely.


Phase 3:

I funded all of my accounts in Phase 3 and 4 with my PenFed Visa. I called PenFed today and discovered that they would treat these transactions as cash advances, but I would not incur any interest as long as I paid in full by my due date, which I normally do since this card is my daily spender.


Phase 4:

k1b - Will call to try to add fathickory $25 bonus referral code to this account. Sent secure message to cancel check order. Also called them to cancel check order and apply for k3.

k3 - Was informed by Chase that they do not offer business checking accounts in my area. Rats. I thought that perhaps my business could open an East Coast branch, but I don't know if they would allow it since I have no East Coast address on my credit report. Any other ideas?


Phase 5:

No news.


2Cor521


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SecondCor521 said:Phase 2A:

32 - In the same call inquiring about my limit, I asked Advanta about my BT and was informed that if BT < CL, BT would be processed; if BT > CL, BT would be canceled completely.
I can confirm this is what happens with Advanta. However, I was also told this about the Nat City Lifespring Acct, but my BT request was automatically reduced to 100% of the approved credit line.


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SecondCor521 said:In retrospect I should have switched the order on the USBank cards and done the Baylor application first.
The "deal" is equally good with the other US Bank card, right?

This does, however reinforce the general importance of sorting your cards by desireability.


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markkundinger said:SecondCor521 said:In retrospect I should have switched the order on the USBank cards and done the Baylor application first.
The "deal" is equally good with the other US Bank card, right?

This does, however reinforce the general importance of sorting your cards by desireability.

No, unfortunately it isn't. The offer for the first USBank card in my list -- by the way, the "phone extension" is actually the offer code -- had expired. The best option the rep offered me at that point was a no-annual fee Visa card with a 12 month 0% uncapped fee. If I had been thinking more clearly, I would have said "No thanks". My thought at the time though was that USBank seemed to be pretty lenient about waiving BT fees, so I thought I would try that route with card #1. Alternatively, I figured I would get both and reallocate to the better offer. My other thought is to ask USBank to switch the (presumed) approval from card #1 to card #2.

2Cor521


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Glitch99 said:SecondCor521 said:Phase 2A:

32 - In the same call inquiring about my limit, I asked Advanta about my BT and was informed that if BT < CL, BT would be processed; if BT > CL, BT would be canceled completely.
I can confirm this is what happens with Advanta. However, I was also told this about the Nat City Lifespring Acct, but my BT request was automatically reduced to 100% of the approved credit line.

Glitch,

Good to know.

I think the only way to manage it is to keep track of what BT requests one has made and monitor them closely. If what you say happens to me, I will either ask for a CLI ("I've heard 100% utilization is bad for my credit score.") or pay down the balance to 89.99% ASAP.

2Cor521


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2Cor, are you referring to Advanta still? First, I was in the situation in cancelling a $12.5K Advanta card and reapplying. Second, I did request a $25K BT but only got a $2.5K CL. So I don't think the card is cancelled if BT > CL. Third, its a biz card so I don't believe the utilization matters in the case of Advanta...


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