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Bought a Car on eBay. A year later found that it was totaled. Lessons learned Archived From: Finance

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Let's back up!! Which Honda model did OP buy?


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tmag01 said:Maybe next time you should have a mechanic look at it before you buy it.
OP: I did and even he count notice it. If I show you the pictures of my car, you wount beleive it. Infact, in the morning when I went to pick up my car from the paint and Body Shop, the guys there had called thier friends from other shops to see the beauty of work on my car. No kiddin

Why in the world do people buy cars on eBay?
To learn a lessons for others to not to buy it. what should I say..


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NY153 said:who wants to drive the same honda for 10+ years???

Probably the same type of person who cuts coupons, shops around for the best savings rates, invests and saves and lives below their means... like a lot of people here.


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bpydimer said:Let's back up!! Which Honda model did OP buy?

OP; Honda Civic VP 2005


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azygous said:tmag01 said:Maybe next time you should have a mechanic look at it before you buy it.
OP: I did and even he count notice it. If I show you the pictures of my car, you wount beleive it. Infact, in the morning when I went to pick up my car from the paint and Body Shop, the guys there had called thier friends from other shops to see the beauty of work on my car. No kiddin

Why in the world do people buy cars on eBay?
To learn a lessons for others to not to buy it. what should I say..

Wow that sucks. There was no mention of an inspection in the OP so I assumed. Tough luck.


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berlinsmommy said:I know that this is highly unpopular here on FatWallet, but reading all of this info about totalled cars finding their way back into the market, airbag fraud, cars flooded in Katrina, etc. it just reinforces the way DH and I buy cars, which is to buy brand new
ITA. In 2003, when I was in grad school, I bought my first car, a 1998 Toyota Corolla for $6,100 (private-party sale). Five years later, KBB says it's now worth $4,800, so it looks like I made the right decision financially. Well, before buying, I had the car inspected by a mechanic, and I thought the gear shift felt a little funny, but he said it was fine. Two months after buying it, the gear shift froze, and I had to get the car towed. $500 repair for the transmission cable. I had far more problems with my Corolla in the first 2 years that I owned it than in the last 2 [when it's been 8-10 years old], and I believe it's b/c it hadn't been properly maintained by the original owner. In fact, I haven't had a single problem with my car since July 2006.

Next time, I'm buying new.


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Yep, agree with this. My first car was a new 1997 camry bought in Dec 1997, drove it till March 2007, close to 10 yrs, 145K miles, no issues, oil / brakes / tires. Eventually we got bored of it, it got old to drive the same reliable car and so we sold it off via CL for 5K which was more than any dealer was offering and higher than the fair market value for a vehicle in that state.

Next, we got a 2007 GS 350 AWD from out of state, unfortunately it got totalled due to a bad rear end collision, but we got $500 more from the insurance company vs what we paid for it at the dealer, since in WA they have to consider fair market value by calling up bunch of dealers in the city and they all quoted higher than what I had paid for it new, go figure.
berlinsmommy said:I know that this is highly unpopular here on FatWallet, but reading all of this info about totalled cars finding their way back into the market, airbag fraud, cars flooded in Katrina, etc. it just reinforces the way DH and I buy cars, which is to buy brand new, after next years models are out, negotiate price as much as possible, get exactly what we want, and keep it a LOOOOOOOOOONG time so that depreciation is irrelevent, you drive it until it is worth nothing. By then, usually car prices have gone up enough to make it an even better value, such as my brand new 1992 Honda Civic that I paid $8,333 OTD for in October of '92. Drove it until 2002, it had 250k + miles, cost almost nothing to maintain, insure, or fill w/ gas. By 2002 when I got rid of it, the fact that I could have bought used for $6k was irrelevant, I felt I got the best use of my money buying new.


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I agree that one should only buy their cars new or buy beaters that you didn't pay much for and couldn't care less if it had been totalled 15 times before. The exception would be a used car from someone that you knew.


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someone said about insurance companies that they have different databases, Can i call them and ask to check the VIN #?
anyone did it?


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jacekrsx said:someone said about insurance companies that they have different databases, Can i call them and ask to check the VIN #?
anyone did it?

from what i am learning it is called a clue report..correct me if I am wrong


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azygous said:jacekrsx said:someone said about insurance companies that they have different databases, Can i call them and ask to check the VIN #?
anyone did it?


from what i am learning it is called a clue report..correct me if I am wrong
Yes, CLUE: Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange report, which is maintained by Choicepoint (http://www.choicetrust.com/servlet/com.kx.cs.servlets.CsServlet?usertype=c)


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What are the $7500 worth of previous damages? What exactly is damaged?


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azygous said:Now what are my options here??
Sell it ASAP since somebody else is paying you to repair it now.
The title is still "clean", right?

Just crank up the radio or keep chatting if there's wind noise: speaking from experience here.


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geo123 said:azygous said:jacekrsx said:someone said about insurance companies that they have different databases, Can i call them and ask to check the VIN #?
anyone did it?


from what i am learning it is called a clue report..correct me if I am wrong
Yes, CLUE: Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange report, which is maintained by Choicepoint (http://www.choicetrust.com/servlet/com.kx.cs.servlets.CsServlet?usertype=c)

From their site:

The C.L.U.E. ŽAuto report provides a seven year history of automobile insurance losses associated with an individual. The following data will be identified for each loss: date of loss, loss type, and amount paid along with general information such as policy number, claim number and insurance company name.

Note: If you have not filed a claim against your auto or property insurance policy in the last 7 years, you will likely receive a clear report.


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tizzo said:Note: If you have not filed a claim against your auto or property insurance policy in the last 7 years, you will likely receive a clear report.Correct, if they do not have any information to report on you, you'll just receive a clear report. Why did you put it in bold?


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geo123 said:tizzo said:Note: If you have not filed a claim against your auto or property insurance policy in the last 7 years, you will likely receive a clear report.Correct, if they do not have any information to report on you, you'll just receive a clear report. Why did you put it in bold?

Just wanted to keep it consistent since it was in bold on their site.


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First, ASK if the car has had any body damaage.
Seller may not be honest, but it never hurts to ask.

Second, if you're not qualified to notice repaint / body damage, which is going to require you crawling all over that thing - pay someone else to do it.

Carfax is *worthless* in many states in regard to damage. It's not worthless in regard to title skip-trace and possible "washing" of a title, but in terms of damage - here in TX, it's WRONG way more than it is right.

CLUE reports, well, they're for damage that's run through a claim system. Again, they don't count private party fixes.

It's entirely possible for me to cut a car in half, literally, sew another car back in, and never have carfax or clue know anything about it....

Ask, inspect, clue, carfax.

Carfax has great marketing that owners and dealers take advantage of.. It's mostly spin.


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pedrum said:What are the $7500 worth of previous damages? What exactly is damaged?

the bottom part of the trunk..its really beated up.
I dont think it will cost 7500$. But the car was totaled and it was never a part of car fax, thats my question...


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DeGlass said:azygous said:Now what are my options here??
Sell it ASAP since somebody else is paying you to repair it now.
The title is still "clean", right?

Just crank up the radio or keep chatting if there's wind noise: speaking from experience here.

I am not going to sell it.I dont want anyone to have that problem..beleive me i can easily sell this this thing for regular buyer.
Yes the title is still clean.
there is no noise or any problem yet...


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It looks you can order a free Clue Report online.

I didn't go through the whole process to see if is actually online, or makes you print and mail, or something else -- but has anyone gotten a CLUE report? Is it something to do in addition to the pretty useless Carfax?


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