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Bankdeals just reported on a new Installment account offering high yields. Minimum contract amount is $1,000, and it requires you to have their free checking account.
http://www.wooriamericabank.com/eng/one_heart_E_all.html

A branch visit is required to open the accounts. Also unlike Wilshire there is an 18month penalty for early withdrawal.
edit: for California-based accounts the penalty is only 2 months of interest.

http://bankdeals.blogspot.com/2009/04/installment-savings-accoun...



It seems to pick up where Wilshire leaves off in contract terms. The 18-month penalty reduces its usefulness as a hedge though.


HEPennypacker said: It seems to pick up where Wilshire leaves off in contract terms. The 18-month penalty reduces its usefulness as a hedge though.

This looks good if you don't need money for 4 years, better than any CD out there. Will use both, wilshire and Woori. Really surpise me if CD people have not jumping on this at all.


just talk to customer service rep,

here are the rates that are not on their website.

12 months 4.25%
24 months 4.5%
36 months 5.25%


Normally these deals are for the lucky few, but OMG, there is a location 3 miles from my office! I don't have a ton of extra money, but I can get in on this. Green to you.


PhrugalPhan said: Normally these deals are for the lucky few, but OMG, there is a location 3 miles from my office! I don't have a ton of extra money, but I can get in on this. Green to you.

Remember, you don't need cash upfront, this is an installment saving account, just make sure you have the cash each month to cover your saving goal.


internetle said: HEPennypacker said: It seems to pick up where Wilshire leaves off in contract terms. The 18-month penalty reduces its usefulness as a hedge though.

This looks good if you don't need money for 4 years, better than any CD out there. Will use both, wilshire and Woori. Really surpise me if CD people have not jumping on this at all.

What are your thoughts on the possibility of inflation and thus rising cd rates in the 4-5 years? Anybody considering the 120month term?


2stepsbehind said: internetle said: HEPennypacker said: It seems to pick up where Wilshire leaves off in contract terms. The 18-month penalty reduces its usefulness as a hedge though.

This looks good if you don't need money for 4 years, better than any CD out there. Will use both, wilshire and Woori. Really surpise me if CD people have not jumping on this at all.


What are your thoughts on the possibility of inflation and thus rising cd rates in the 4-5 years? Anybody considering the 120month term?

that is why I called to find the rates for 1, 2 and 3 years. IMO, inflation will be tame for atleast 2 years. Of course, I would be rich if I know the number for sure,


internetle said: PhrugalPhan said: Normally these deals are for the lucky few, but OMG, there is a location 3 miles from my office! I don't have a ton of extra money, but I can get in on this. Green to you.

Remember, you don't need cash upfront, this is an installment saving account, just make sure you have the cash each month to cover your saving goal.

Gotcha. As long as they allow money to be pushed to the account (say from FNBO for example), this will work fine. Getting to their office every month to make a deposit would make me reconsider this.

As for the appropriate time frame, I'm probably going to hedge my bets with one short (12 mo.) one mid (36 mo.) and one long (60 mo.). Even if rates go up, it will probably only hurt me on the long one, and truthfully not that much that I need to worry about it.


for folks in CA penalty is only 2 months (The early withdrawal penalty will be assessed as follows: NY, NJ, PA, VA, and MD: 18 months loss of interest, CA: 2 months loss of interest)


So, the only way to fund this package is to pay in person? Nothing else? Will call and find out.


I just spoke to someone in their GG office and from what I was able to understand (her english was hard to understand) you have to fund the installment account from your checking account.


Opened account at Broadway, NYC, NY branch,
took 15 mins.
One needs a free chcking with them that can be funded either in person/DD before each transfer to sav.


Can anybody figure out how they are compounding the interest on this thing?

This is a more standard installment, with harsher terms (outside of California). Obviously a much better deal than wilshire in CA.

 

- edit - okay, it appears to be monthly, though not certain (and not that it really matters)


Is the rate fixed for the entire time period, and is there a max amount?


Wait, this bank is called Worry America??!? Hmmmm......


fixed for the term amount.
did not ask for the max amount.
probably will split my DD with some money going to their free checking to have it automatically transfered to this sav account.

Actually, their 10y term is a nice hedge againsr long period of deflation and/or low rates (a-la Japan).
If I would not have had a looming expense increase before 10y term due to end of the property tax abatement and HELOC going into amortizing from IO - I would have totally gone for it.


if I go for the 120 months term, but move out of CA during the term, what will my early withdrawal penalty be?

will try to call tomorrow to find out


OP update title to include MD (branch is in Wheaton).


UPdownLoAD said: Wait, this bank is called Worry America??!? Hmmmm......

Woori actually means "our" in Korean. So when this bank was started in Korea, essentially it meant Our Bank.


Does anyone understand the chart on their site?


gator2000 said: Does anyone understand the chart on their site?

The one showing the monthly installments?


gator2000 said: Does anyone understand the chart on their site?

I presume the savings account auto-transfers whatever amount is set for your term / contract amount.

So, using $5000 and 48 mo, it would auto-transfer $93.37 a month.


Does the early withdrawl penalty for CA mean that:
whatever term you choose you will only forfeit 2 months of the stated APY rate or
if you early withdrawl does that then your rate drops from to a regular savings rate back dated to your initial deposit plus you loose 2 months of the regular savings rate.


For Californians:
I think that this is the most important issue, because theoretically if you took out the 10 yr term at 6.25% and after 1 yr cancelled, if you only lost 2 months of interest at 6.25% rate, then your effective interest rate would be 5.25%. This is even better than the 1 yr term they are offering at 4.25%.

Thus, assuming that you took our a 10 yr rate at 6.25% and cancelled early these are the effective rates I believe you would get:

Terminate after yr 1 5.25%
Terminate after yr 2 5.75%
Terminate after yr 3 5.91%
Terminate after yr 4 6.00%
Terminate after yr 5 6.05%
Terminate after yr 6 6.08%
Terminate after yr 7 6.11%
Terminate after yr 8 6.13%
Terminate after yr 9 6.14%

Can anyone comment on my theory?
If this is true, then my thought would be to establish the ending 10 yr term $ amount with the largest monthly deposits that you could afford to make to the account. Keep making the deposits until interest rates move above the terminate after yr rates shown above, then terminate and move the money into another account making a higher rate.

I know this sounds like a loophole for CA residents only (i.e. only 2 month cancellation penalty), but isn't that what were all about.

PS. I'm a CPA


Jasonelman's plan looks pretty good here. I have another option as explain in wilshire bank thread. Get 5 accounts with highest interest, close the account that will satisfy your cash need when appropriate. That way, everything stays the same for the contract length.


Funny. I opened an account at a New Jersey branch and got a "why do you want to open an account HERE feeling". They wanted to know where I was getting the monthly deposit money from, and had me sign a statement stating my annual income and that if I close my account I'll forfeit 1/2 months deposit, which is practically the entire years interest upfront, whether accrued yet or not, before I received the 'truth in savings' booklet which showed 6 months interest penalty others are describing here. Do not open if there is any possibility you might have to close this account, and keep a close watch on your statements for unexpected fees as there's something suspicious here.


cows123 said: Funny. I opened an account at a New Jersey branch and got a "why do you want to open an account HERE feeling". They wanted to know where I was getting the monthly deposit money from, and had me sign a statement stating my annual income and that if I close my account I'll forfeit 1/2 months deposit, which is practically the entire years interest upfront, whether accrued yet or not, not the 6 months interest I am now reading is supposed to apply. Do not open if there is any possibility you might have to close this account, and keep a close watch as there's something suspicious here. My guess is that these Korean banks are themselves participating in an installment banking plan with the Central Bank of North Korea. Eventually it will turn out out to be a Ponzi scheme or worse, earnings paid in fraudulent US currency. But don't worry, the US government will still bailout these Korean banks and certainly their customers.


TheMeliorist said: cows123 said: Funny. I opened an account at a New Jersey branch and got a "why do you want to open an account HERE feeling". They wanted to know where I was getting the monthly deposit money from, and had me sign a statement stating my annual income and that if I close my account I'll forfeit 1/2 months deposit, which is practically the entire years interest upfront, whether accrued yet or not, not the 6 months interest I am now reading is supposed to apply. Do not open if there is any possibility you might have to close this account, and keep a close watch as there's something suspicious here. My guess is that these Korean banks are themselves participating in an installment banking plan with the Central Bank of North Korea. Eventually it will turn out out to be a Ponzi scheme or worse, earnings paid in fraudulent US currency. But don't worry, the US government will still bailout these Korean banks and certainly their customers.

seriously if this wasn't fdic insured it would fall into the category of "If its too good to be true.." Reminds me of Stanfords pitch


two answers for why to bank the:

1. The good interest rate
2. Hot korean tellers


About that Chart, http://www.wooriamericabank.com/eng/one_heart_E_all.html
I am not sure if I understand it right, correct me if I am wrong.

For example of 48mo and $1000 contract amount, so every month transfer $18.67 from checking account to saving account for 48 mo, I will get 5.5% APY on my deposit?

But actually total deposit $896.16 (18.67x48) is less than $1000?


sammyonfw said: But actually total deposit $896.16 (18.67x48) is less than $1000? The remainder is the interest accrued over that 48 month period. So you end up with $1000 at the end.


sammyonfw said: About that Chart, http://www.wooriamericabank.com/eng/one_heart_E_all.html
I am not sure if I understand it right, correct me if I am wrong.

For example of 48mo and $1000 contract amount, so every month transfer $18.67 from checking account to saving account for 48 mo, I will get 5.5% APY on my deposit?
kk
But actually total deposit $896.16 (18.67x48) is less than $1000?

Because of interest earned during the 48 mo. which gets you to the full $1000. If you want to contribute $1000 to get $1000 back in 48 mo. then feel free to open up a regular savings at BofA or some other large bank.


isnt this like buying a 'discount bond' or something? at the end of the term it hits 'par' value aka 1,000.00, for a bond that begins at below par value (below 1,000).


kabukicho said: isnt this like buying a 'discount bond' or something? at the end of the term it hits 'par' value aka 1,000.00, for a bond that begins at below par value (below 1,000).
When you buy a discounted bond, you don't have to keep making monthly payments in order to receive the par value at maturity. You just make one payment up front and wait for the bond to mature.


fallbird said: kabukicho said: isnt this like buying a 'discount bond' or something? at the end of the term it hits 'par' value aka 1,000.00, for a bond that begins at below par value (below 1,000).
When you buy a discounted bond, you don't have to keep making monthly payments in order to receive the par value at maturity. You just make one payment up front and wait for the bond to mature.

With rates continuing to drop at many of the board's favorite alternative banks I thought this thread could use a bump.


internetle said: Jasonelman's plan looks pretty good here. I have another option as explain in wilshire bank thread. Get 5 accounts with highest interest, close the account that will satisfy your cash need when appropriate. That way, everything stays the same for the contract length.

internetle's idea has the advantage of allowing money to be invested in the higher rate account at a faster rate, allowing you to earn a higher effective APY on a lump sum.

With one account, you would have approximately 50% of the contract amount invested on average for the term. I haven't run the numbers for various scenarios but taken to the extreme, rolling forward accounts could get you close to 100%.


I know the bank is FDIC insured but are we sure this product is covered?


HappyGuy said: I know the bank is FDIC insured but are we sure this product is covered?

why wouldn't it be?


Just opened an account at the NYC branch of Woori. They call the 12-36 month high yield accounts "The More Dream Club Savings" and the 48-120 month accounts the "One Heart Club Savings".
The MDC has a early withdrawl penalty of 12 months (as opposed to 18 months for the OHC)

I opened a 36 month MDC account and a free checking account, it took about 30 minutes.

They have a machine that makes your Visa Debit card right there for you.

Attached is the current rate sheet.


Skipping 51 Messages...

I agree that this would be easier to resolve face-to-face. Unfortunately, I don't live near a branch. I had to travel a significant distance to open these accounts.

Does anyone else reading this have a One Heart account? If so, could you make a branch visit and try to get them to address this issue for your account? Maybe if someone could get this corrected for one account, it would be easier to fix for other accounts.




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