I am about to buy a home and can pay only 10% downpayment. I dont want to Pay PMI and hence am trying to see what are my options. Since 2nd Mortgages are almost impossible to get, what are my options now to finance another 10% to avoid PMI.
Here are some details.
1. Home in BayArea CA. 2. I am a First Time Home buyer 3. Very good Credit Score. 4. Over 100k Salary. 5. Loan under process. 6. Home Appraisal by the lending bank came up 3% above the purchase price.So the home already has about 3% equity apart from the 10% downpayment I will be making.
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posted: Oct. 16, 2009 @ 10:55p
rama13
Member
posted: Oct. 16, 2009 @ 11:07p
The appraisal for a purchase has nothing to do with your LTV. The value of the home is what you're paying for it in the eyes of lenders. That 3% doesn't exist.
Hans23
Member
posted: Oct. 16, 2009 @ 11:22p
rama13 said: The appraisal for a purchase has nothing to do with your LTV. The value of the home is what you're paying for it in the eyes of lenders. That 3% doesn't exist. This is what the lender said too.He said they take lesser of the purchase price and appraisal to calculate LTV.
Colt2001
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 17, 2009 @ 11:31a
There are no other options to get out of paying MI other than 1) putting 20% down or 2) getting a 2nd lien. Lenders offer Mortgage Insurance or a 2nd Lien to mitigate their potential risk over 80% LTV.
Ideally you should wait till you have 20% downpayment, but if you want to buy now then paying PMI may not be such a bad thing. Especially since PMI is now tax deductable.
Find a bank or other source to loan without PMI. (few and far between i know)
I maybe wrong but GOVT loans are the only ones that legally require PMI. Others just do it because it protects them (its smart). Search around ... good luck.
PS: any rich relatives?
leedsutd67
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 17, 2009 @ 6:24p
First buy a cheaper house Seconde borrow from parents Third wait six months save, then buy
Colt2001
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 17, 2009 @ 7:52p
owenscott said: I maybe wrong but GOVT loans are the only ones that legally require PMI. Others just do it because it protects them (its smart).
Since Fannie, Freddie, and FHA are all owned by the government then pretty much your only choices for loan qualification is through government sources. There are no Sub-prime lender anymore because the secondary market has collapsed.
All the above programs require mortgage insurance with a 1st lien Loan to Value about 80%.
Ask your lender if they have lender paid MI. You may pay a higher rate though to get rid of the PMI.
Colt2001
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 17, 2009 @ 11:02p
As far as I know no one is offering the Lender Paid MI Loans anymore. My last investor (Wells) got rid of that program back in April.
Hans23
Member
posted: Oct. 18, 2009 @ 10:41a
Guys, Thanks for your advices. As many of you stated, all the current programs require PMI be it Govt or Private. I am still trying to see if I can get a second mortgage. The PMI for me wont be tax deductible since my wife works too and we are above the income limit for the PMI to be tax deducted.
this is what I am thinking.. not sure if it's legal and or what's not..but what if you and the seller agreed to artificially raised the price by 10% so your purchase price is 10% higher, whereas, this is the fictitious 10%. After you put in the 10% downpayment, with the fictitous 10% price rise, you are only mortgaging 80%.
Colt2001
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 19, 2009 @ 11:49a
Since I work for a FDIC insured bank I need to yell: "NO NO NO, FRAUD, FRAUD, FRAUD". This is loan fraud and it doesn't meet the No Oral Agreements Clause/Disclosure in ALL Mortgage Loans Paperwork signed at closing.
The other thing is that the above scenario just doesn't work. The buyer has to have bonafide funds in your own account for downpayment. A seller who is not family can in no circumstances give the buyer the down payment before closing. Probably 40% of the work on every file I do now is proving whether 100% of the funds to close is the buyer's bonafide funds. It makes my head spin and adds to my stress level how many times I see un-explained deposits in a buyers accounts. We look for it for 90 days in some cases on your bank statements. We as banks are actively looking for these types of transactions.
You may have to do this the old fashion way, wait until you can afford the house.
Hans23
Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 9:15a
Once again, Thanks for your advices. I am only looking for legal ways of getting rid of PMI.
Hans
ppatin
Focused.
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 9:21a
Hans23 said: Once again, Thanks for your advices. I am only looking for legal ways of getting rid of PMI.
Hans
There really are none. Your options are to buy a cheaper house, wait until you have more money saved up, or pay off the loan as quickly as possible at first so that you get below 80% LTV.
ppatin said: Hans23 said: Once again, Thanks for your advices. I am only looking for legal ways of getting rid of PMI.
Hans
There really are none. Your options are to buy a cheaper house, wait until you have more money saved up, or pay off the loan as quickly as possible at first so that you get below 80% LTV.
Even that won't get rid of PMI usually. It's required to be held for several years in many mortgage agreements regardless of LTV.
ppatin
Focused.
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 9:34a
brettdoyle said: ppatin said: Hans23 said: Once again, Thanks for your advices. I am only looking for legal ways of getting rid of PMI.
Hans
There really are none. Your options are to buy a cheaper house, wait until you have more money saved up, or pay off the loan as quickly as possible at first so that you get below 80% LTV.
Even that won't get rid of PMI usually. It's required to be held for several years in many mortgage agreements regardless of LTV.
I'm pretty sure the law requires that PMI be removed once the LTV ratio hits 78%.
Colt2001
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 9:47a
woowoo2 said: Join the Army..... VA loan = No PMI
Not entirely correct. On VA there is no Monthly Mortgage Insurance but they have a VA Funding Fee for 2.15%-3.30% of the loan amount.(Waived with 10% Disability or can be reduced in some cases)
This is essentially a Mortgage Insurance Policy that is being paid upfront to VA to insure your loan. You pay a big chunk upfront but dont pay a monthly fee.
ppatin said: brettdoyle said: ppatin said: Hans23 said: Once again, Thanks for your advices. I am only looking for legal ways of getting rid of PMI.
Hans
There really are none. Your options are to buy a cheaper house, wait until you have more money saved up, or pay off the loan as quickly as possible at first so that you get below 80% LTV.
Even that won't get rid of PMI usually. It's required to be held for several years in many mortgage agreements regardless of LTV.
I'm pretty sure the law requires that PMI be removed once the LTV ratio hits 78%.
From fhaloan.com:
For mortgages with terms more than 15 years, the annual mortgage insurance premiums will be canceled when the Loan to Value ratio reaches 78%, provided the mortgagor has paid the annual premium for at least 5 years.
For mortgages with terms 15 years and less and with loan to value ratios 90% and greater, then annual premiums will be canceled when the Loan to Value ratio reaches 78%, regardless of the amount of time the mortgagor has paid the premiums.
Mortgages with terms 15 years and less and with loan to value ratios of 89.99% and less will not be charged annual mortgage insurance premiums.
Of course the rules on every mortgage is different.
Colt2001
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 9:54a
ppatin said: brettdoyle said: ppatin said: Hans23 said: Once again, Thanks for your advices. I am only looking for legal ways of getting rid of PMI.
Hans
There really are none. Your options are to buy a cheaper house, wait until you have more money saved up, or pay off the loan as quickly as possible at first so that you get below 80% LTV.
Even that won't get rid of PMI usually. It's required to be held for several years in many mortgage agreements regardless of LTV.
I'm pretty sure the law requires that PMI be removed once the LTV ratio hits 78%.
Actually what the law states is that it has to be removed at 78% LTV of the "original amortization schedule". This means that PMI legally has to be removed when you were originally scheduled to pay your loan down to 78%. If you read the law it is not clear about early pre-payment. What it does say is that you as the buyer can request it to be removed when your current value is below 80%LTV and with 2 years of Good Payments. The mortgage servicer does have the ability to remove it earlier at their discretion if you pay the LTV down but they do not legally have to "cancel" with less than 2 years of good payments.
Colt2001
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 9:58a
brettdoyle said: ppatin said: brettdoyle said: ppatin said: Hans23 said: Once again, Thanks for your advices. I am only looking for legal ways of getting rid of PMI.
Hans
There really are none. Your options are to buy a cheaper house, wait until you have more money saved up, or pay off the loan as quickly as possible at first so that you get below 80% LTV.
Even that won't get rid of PMI usually. It's required to be held for several years in many mortgage agreements regardless of LTV.
I'm pretty sure the law requires that PMI be removed once the LTV ratio hits 78%.
From fhaloan.com:
For mortgages with terms more than 15 years, the annual mortgage insurance premiums will be canceled when the Loan to Value ratio reaches 78%, provided the mortgagor has paid the annual premium for at least 5 years.
For mortgages with terms 15 years and less and with loan to value ratios 90% and greater, then annual premiums will be canceled when the Loan to Value ratio reaches 78%, regardless of the amount of time the mortgagor has paid the premiums.
Mortgages with terms 15 years and less and with loan to value ratios of 89.99% and less will not be charged annual mortgage insurance premiums.
Of course the rules on every mortgage is different.
You are correct on FHA but we have really been discussing a Conventional Deal and not the FHA program. But once again on FHA even with a LTV with less than 90% on a 15 year note you will be required to pay the FHA UpFront Mortgage Premium of 1.75% of the loan balance. So you are still paying "Mortgage Insurance", just not montly mortgage insurance on top of the FHA UFMIP.
mac760
Frivolous Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 3:26p
Colt2001 said: woowoo2 said: Join the Army..... VA loan = No PMI
Not entirely correct. On VA there is no Monthly Mortgage Insurance but they have a VA Funding Fee for 2.15%-3.30% of the loan amount.(Waived with 10% Disability or can be reduced in some cases)
This is essentially a Mortgage Insurance Policy that is being paid upfront to VA to insure your loan. You pay a big chunk upfront but dont pay a monthly fee.
Nice work cherry picking information. Here is the real info from the VA website.
Type of Veteran Down Payment First Time Use Subsequent Use for loans from 1/1/04 to 9/30/11 Regular Military None 2.15% 3.3% 5% or more 1.50% 1.50% 10% or more 1.25% 1.25%
Reserves/ National Guard None 2.4% 3.3% * 5% or more 1.75% 1.75% 10% or more 1.5% 1.5%
Good luck getting a deal with no PMI in this environment.
Muscle
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 4:14p
The way it was explained to me was (IIRC) that PMI stays for at least 5 years on FHA and 2 years on Conventional, regardless of whether you hit 80% or 78% or whatever LTV (unless you win the lottery and pay the whole thing off). You mentioned it was difficult to get a 2nd loan, I'm assuming you're talking about a HELOC. That's what I did for my other 10% and should have it all paid off by next month (so only 2 months of interest payments vs. 2 years).
staci86
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 4:22p
Avoiding PMI for the sake of avoiding PMI is misguided.
Your concern should be the total cost of credit, which is a combination of the fees to close, plus the portion of your monthly payment that does not reduce the balance. Whether a dollar goes to PMI or interest is irrelevant - it is still a dollar you must pay to carry the loan. At least with PMI, amortization, reappraisal, and additional principal payments can help eliminate it.
Are there loans out there without PMI at that LTV? Yes, but unless you want to take a variable purchase money HELOC, and can find it at a local bank or credit union, or you happen to have a private banker, then you are out of luck. I don't know why you wouldn't want to lock in a fixed rate with PMI, given how absurdly low rates are now, both on a historical basis, and relative to the inflation outlook. Depending on your credit profile, the cheapest loan in the long run will be either FHA or Agency (Fannie/Freddie).
VA loans do have "PMI", but by another name.
staci86
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 4:24p
Muscle said: The way it was explained to me was (IIRC) that PMI stays for at least 5 years on FHA and 2 years on Conventional, regardless of whether you hit 80% or 78% or whatever LTV (unless you win the lottery and pay the whole thing off). You mentioned it was difficult to get a 2nd loan, I'm assuming you're talking about a HELOC. That's what I did for my other 10% and should have it all paid off by next month (so only 2 months of interest payments vs. 2 years). Monthly MI on FHA must stay in place for five years.
Monthly PMI (P as in private) can be eliminated one month after closing if you can reduce the LTV.
As for the 80/78 on conventional, you may request it be dropped at 80, but the servicer must automatically drop it at 78.
InFlamed
Senior Member
posted: Oct. 22, 2009 @ 10:07p
Just how much is this home that you make $100,000 a year and don't have 20%?
resistors10k
Thrifty Member
posted: Nov. 5, 2009 @ 10:05a
If this is a regular sale (meaning not a short sale or an REO), ask the seller if he/she can carryback the 10%.
I believe you have to wait for at least one year after closing before you can challenge your lender to have the PMI removed, assuming the LTV is below 80%. But each lender might be different.
FIrst mortgage for 80%, 10% 2nd mortgage or HELOC, 10% down.
the first mortgage (the 80%) sees the other 20% as a traditional downpayment so there's no PMI. and the interest on the 2nd mortgage is tax-deductible too.
rawman1
Senior Member
posted: Dec. 26, 2009 @ 7:31p
Didn't want to start a new thread for this question:
Has anyone every heard of upfront mortgage insurance for a conventional loan? It exists for FHA loans, but the sources that I have found indicate that upfront mortgage insurance premium is only for FHA loans and not for conventional loans. Conventional loans only have the monthly mortgage insurance. Did the bank make a mistake on the GFE?
Not sure exactly what your asking .... but my loan NON FHA had option for paying the PMI upfront or monthly. So i guess the answer to what i thought you were asking is other mortgage products do have differing options for PMI.
rawman1
Senior Member
posted: Dec. 26, 2009 @ 8:41p
Thanks. I was not sure. The question was: Is it possible to have a conventional loans with upfront mortgage insurance premium (and no monthly insurance premiums)? The bank has made several errors so I am skeptical about everything.
Yep ... what mine was called TAMI, tax advantage mortgage insurance, but you have to realize you can never get that back, Its paid and no refund if if you pay down below 78% ahead of schedule ...
If you want the house now, get the PMI, in a year you can get rid of it if you pay down to get your LTV down below 80%. The other option is to wait, but I don't blame Lenders for not offering 2nd's anymore.
rawman1
Senior Member
posted: Dec. 26, 2009 @ 9:25p
Yes, but this is better than paying the monthly premiums. You have to pay them for, at a minimum, 24 months. Then you have to pay for an appraisal once you think that the LTV is <=80. Assuming that the equity will be there in 2 years from appreciation, the upfront premium is still 10/mo cheaper than the monthly premiums. I have not calculated the breakeven interest rate, but it would have to be above average to make the monthly premiums a better deal.
You will also have to bring more tot he table or no ? ... anyways run those numbers again just to be sure .... my numbers seemed awful high not like two years worth but like 7 years worth.
Different product maybe and it was 4 years ago ... its just a guess.
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