Bosch Platinum Plus Spark Plugs - Free after MIR (Plus Tax / Ship)

1) Rarely are there dyno'd results for spark plugs to actually let you compare the real-world differences.
http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp?kw=SRT-4+Dyno+Results...
BASICALLY, it's minimal for most people. A few HP here and there at most even between regular and iridium in most engines.

2) Except for some odd-ball sparks, like those silly 2/4 electrode Bosch sparks, almost all spark plugs come pre-gapped, but you can adjust it anyway you'd like! ALWAYS double-check with a gap tool!!
IRIDIUM SPARKS - NEVER TOUCH THE TINY TIP!!! You can mess up an expensive iridium spark plug that way. Just bend the electrode w/o touching the tip on iridiums.

3) Because there are few dyno results, I simply went down the list at Sparkplugs.com and went with NGK Iridiums - the highest average HP gain of those tested (but only ~30k mile lifespan). Figure if I'm going to spend the $$$ for extra HP, might as well. Otherwise, STANDARD Platinums running 100k miles will do fine for most people.

4) Spark plug changes don't take more than 30 minutes as a beginner, and all you need is the basic spark socket adapter for your wrench to pop one in and out and anti-sieze for the threads for the new ones. As long as you're not bending anything funny, torquing right (1/2 turn past hand tight usually), and not breaking the ceramic upper body, you'll be fine. (Oh, and disconnect the neg. battery terminal first! don't want accidental airbag...)

5) Make sure you've got clean fuel injectors. Nothing like new sparks and clogged injectors - pour a bottle of fuel cleaner in with new sparks to make sure. Otherwise, you'll have to service it for best performance. Clean air filter, too, while you're at it.

adorable said:   1) Rarely are there dyno'd results for spark plugs to actually let you compare the real-world differences.
http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp?kw=SRT-4+Dyno+Results...
BASICALLY, it's minimal for most people. A few HP here and there at most even between regular and iridium in most engines.

2) Except for some odd-ball sparks, like those silly 2/4 electrode Bosch sparks, almost all spark plugs come pre-gapped, but you can adjust it anyway you'd like! ALWAYS double-check with a gap tool!!
IRIDIUM SPARKS - NEVER TOUCH THE TINY TIP!!! You can mess up an expensive iridium spark plug that way. Just bend the electrode w/o touching the tip on iridiums.

3) Because there are few dyno results, I simply went down the list at Sparkplugs.com and went with NGK Iridiums - the highest average HP gain of those tested (but only ~30k mile lifespan). Figure if I'm going to spend the $$$ for extra HP, might as well. Otherwise, STANDARD Platinums running 100k miles will do fine for most people.

4) Spark plug changes don't take more than 30 minutes as a beginner, and all you need is the basic spark socket adapter for your wrench to pop one in and out and anti-sieze for the threads for the new ones. As long as you're not bending anything funny, torquing right (1/2 turn past hand tight usually), and not breaking the ceramic upper body, you'll be fine. (Oh, and disconnect the neg. battery terminal first! don't want accidental airbag...)

5) Make sure you've got clean fuel injectors. Nothing like new sparks and clogged injectors - pour a bottle of fuel cleaner in with new sparks to make sure. Otherwise, you'll have to service it for best performance. Clean air filter, too, while you're at it.
where should i pour the fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank? wouldnt it be better to run the injector cleaner for a number of miles before i change the plugs?

They shouldn't come apart in the engine per say, but I've seen whatever adhesive used in manufacturing them all but vanish, leaving a spark plug that would fall apart in your hand after you pull it out.