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i've decided to test my brand new champion 3500w generator i bought 4 yrs ago ($150 AR deal) and.........it didn't work. i filled it with oil and new gasoline and pulled and pulled and pulled. i went to the champion website and they have a technical bulletin to troubleshoot the generator. i performed all the tests and my generator passed all the tests but still didn't fire up. i also disconnected the low oil sensor. it never fired even once so i suspected it might be a clog somewhere. i took the carburetor off the generator (easily done) and sprayed carburetor cleaner down the jet and then put everything back together and...........it fired up!

i had searched the 'net and apparently new generators that have been sitting unused sometimes have a varnish build up in the carburetor jet from the residual gasoline used to test fire the generator at the factory.

my advice is to keep a can of carburetor cleaner around and learn how to troubleshoot your generator.

here are some links that helped me:

champion troubleshooting bulletin
champion faqs
champion carburetor tear down instructions

it really wasn't that difficult to pull the carburetor off and squirt the cleaner down the jet. i didn't need to use compressed air to clear the jet. the cleaner quickly dissolved whatever it was that was clogging the jet.

now that my generator works and is broken in i'm going to order the tri-fuel conversion kit so i can run it off propane that i can safely store long term. lots of doomsday survivalists and the RV crowd have had success with their champion generators running on propane.

faktor said:   Everything I've read suggests that these and others at this price level MAY ruin electronics (many systems have electronics for their controls) due to high harmonic distortion (THD).Can you share any links to this information?

faktor said:   Everything I've read suggests that these and others at this price level MAY ruin electronics (many systems have electronics for their controls) due to high harmonic distortion (THD).

In practice, I see my neighbors have used cheap generators multiple times during outages and haven't heard them complain about having to repair anything.

I would hate to save a few hundred bucks on a generator only to need to repair/replace my busted furnace...


I fried a plasma tv during the Ike outage with a cheap generator.

That being said -- there's an easy solution. Buy the cheap generator, then buy an APC battery with AVR/conditioning to put your good electronics on.

Also be certain to connect ONLY after the generator is running. Sometimes you can kill devices if the generator has run out of fuel and you refill and start with loads still applied. Newer Hondas have an inverter to prevent such damage but I'm not sure opf less expensive brand/models.

Thanks OP, green for you sir. I just ordered mine. Delivery is scheduled for 11-16.

can this generator to be connected to my home electric panel?

I have read the manual and can not find where it states the number for the 30A twist lock plug to order the correct adapter from Amazon. Thanks, Mike

It seems the twist lock plug is only a typ eof plug. Is there a way to connect this generator into my home electric panel with interlock? I ordered one. but, i am cancelling it as somebody told me i must have a 240V generator to connect into my home electric panel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

orientalsquirrel said:   It seems the twist lock plug is only a typ eof plug. Is there a way to connect this generator into my home electric panel with interlock? I ordered one. but, i am cancelling it as somebody told me i must have a 240V generator to connect into my home electric panel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!
You could connect the 110/120 generator to your home panel BUT you can only energize a single 110/120 "leg" of the panel by connecting it to a single breaker. Easier yet is to backfeed into any outlet by using a modified extension cord of proper gauge with two male ends. Again, this will only energize that half of the panel that the outlet's circuit breaker is connected to. If you configure all the essential breakers in your panel on that same "leg", you can then select which device you want to run. You cannot however power devices that require 220.
Note that the male end of the extension cord not connected to the generator is HOT so always plug this into the outlet before plugging into the generator.
Proceed at your own risk. Confidence without competence is a dangerous thing.
Oh, and did I mention ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!

humphreydog said:   Is this the Champion generator that was recalled?

No, the Champion generators that were recalled were sold at Costco. Problem with the fuel line or carb over filling and leaking gasoline and starting fires. http://www.championpowerequipment.com/news/important-product-rec...

Thanks a lot for reply!

I will buy a interlock to make sure the main switcher has to be turned off before the switcher, connected with gnerator, can be turned on.

I asked for canceling the order already. I wish they can process it quickly.

I have wondered why most generator manufacturers still include the twist-lock receptacles.
I understand about making it more difficult for the plug to come out/lose in a storm but it limits what outlets are available to most homeowners as I would imagine we don't have these twist-lock cords. Anyway, what can one plug into the other end of the twist-lock cord as even that is non-standard?
I have 3 such outlets on my generator as well as two GFCI 'normal' 3-prong 120v outlets on my generator.

I'd really like to tap the 30A twist-lock 120V receptacle on my generator for my heavy start-up stuff.
The adaptors they sell are a bit expensive ($20 or more) so I was thinking of making my own extension cord by cutting the plug end off of a 100 ft cord and replacing with the twist-lock plug. Even the plug alone is rather expensive, unless someone has found an inexpensive place to purchase.

forthill

You can get this adaptor @ Cabela's.
I purchased this adaptor from Amazon.
I then purchased this cord set from Home Depot. The packaging states these are light duty, although they have 12 gauge wires. They are nice extension cords at a very good price.

I am going to buy an interlock for my siemens load center and plan to hook up the champion to my loadcenter. Can someone advise my how should I do it? An interlock only takes care of the hot part of the line. Where does the neutral go?
A transfer switch may be a better option but it cost 5 times more than an interlock.

brusbrother said:   orientalsquirrel said:   It seems the twist lock plug is only a typ eof plug. Is there a way to connect this generator into my home electric panel with interlock? I ordered one. but, i am cancelling it as somebody told me i must have a 240V generator to connect into my home electric panel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!
You could connect the 110/120 generator to your home panel BUT you can only energize a single 110/120 "leg" of the panel by connecting it to a single breaker. Easier yet is to backfeed into any outlet by using a modified extension cord of proper gauge with two male ends. Again, this will only energize that half of the panel that the outlet's circuit breaker is connected to. If you configure all the essential breakers in your panel on that same "leg", you can then select which device you want to run. You cannot however power devices that require 220.
Note that the male end of the extension cord not connected to the generator is HOT so always plug this into the outlet before plugging into the generator.
Proceed at your own risk. Confidence without competence is a dangerous thing.
Oh, and did I mention ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!


Would't you be limitted to 10 or 20 amps by doing this (Depending on the breaker the outlet is connected to)? I don't think most 120V outlets are fed from a 30 amp breaker.

I own this exact model since a similar deal in May, and I would have made sweet sweet love to it during Sandy if it were socially acceptable. It started up on the first or second pull every time, ran about 12 hours on a full tank while running my fridge and sump pump ( and misc gadgets), and is now running my inlaws house since we got power back.

Peace of mind at this price is unbeatable.

elektronic said:   brusbrother said:   orientalsquirrel said:   It seems the twist lock plug is only a typ eof plug. Is there a way to connect this generator into my home electric panel with interlock? I ordered one. but, i am cancelling it as somebody told me i must have a 240V generator to connect into my home electric panel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!
You could connect the 110/120 generator to your home panel BUT you can only energize a single 110/120 "leg" of the panel by connecting it to a single breaker. Easier yet is to backfeed into any outlet by using a modified extension cord of proper gauge with two male ends. Again, this will only energize that half of the panel that the outlet's circuit breaker is connected to. If you configure all the essential breakers in your panel on that same "leg", you can then select which device you want to run. You cannot however power devices that require 220.
Note that the male end of the extension cord not connected to the generator is HOT so always plug this into the outlet before plugging into the generator.
Proceed at your own risk. Confidence without competence is a dangerous thing.
Oh, and did I mention ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!


Would't you be limitted to 10 or 20 amps by doing this (Depending on the breaker the outlet is connected to)? I don't think most 120V outlets are fed from a 30 amp breaker.


PSA: Be *extremely* careful with those suicide cable backfeeds. Serious potential fire and shock hazard. *Not recommended*.

Back to the program--

I haven't seen any 120v on a 30a circuit

page 6 of the manual describes the specs on the receptacles. Note that the twist lock can draw up to 3500 watts and has a 25 amp breaker. The 120 volt can draw up 2500w/20a.

FYI When I was testing from the 120v outlet, I was pulling ~2450w/121.1V/20.4A (didn't trip the breaker)

*Deleted*

I really should read the whole thing before posting.

brusbrother said:   orientalsquirrel said:   It seems the twist lock plug is only a typ eof plug. Is there a way to connect this generator into my home electric panel with interlock? I ordered one. but, i am cancelling it as somebody told me i must have a 240V generator to connect into my home electric panel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!
You could connect the 110/120 generator to your home panel BUT you can only energize a single 110/120 "leg" of the panel by connecting it to a single breaker. Easier yet is to backfeed into any outlet by using a modified extension cord of proper gauge with two male ends. Again, this will only energize that half of the panel that the outlet's circuit breaker is connected to. If you configure all the essential breakers in your panel on that same "leg", you can then select which device you want to run. You cannot however power devices that require 220.
Note that the male end of the extension cord not connected to the generator is HOT so always plug this into the outlet before plugging into the generator.
Proceed at your own risk. Confidence without competence is a dangerous thing.
Oh, and did I mention ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!


This is a very bad idea that could kill someone or burn your house down.

First, if you happen to forget to kill the main breaker, you could be backfeeding voltage onto the lines and electrocute a lineman.

Then there is buring down your house. Say you plug the generator into a 15 amp outlet in your house, but your generator can supply 20 amps through its outlet. You plug two devices inside your house on the same circuit that are drawing 9.5 amps each. You are now pulling 19 amps through wire designed for 15. The breaker in your house never trips because the voltage is never flowing through it, and the breaker on the generator never trips because it is under its 20 amp rating. The wire in your walls gets hotter and hotter until it melts, starts a fire, etc.

If you are going to connect a generator to your panel, have the proper equipment installed ahead of time by a competent electrician.

brusbrother said:   orientalsquirrel said:   It seems the twist lock plug is only a typ eof plug. Is there a way to connect this generator into my home electric panel with interlock? I ordered one. but, i am cancelling it as somebody told me i must have a 240V generator to connect into my home electric panel.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector

ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!
You could connect the 110/120 generator to your home panel BUT you can only energize a single 110/120 "leg" of the panel by connecting it to a single breaker. Easier yet is to backfeed into any outlet by using a modified extension cord of proper gauge with two male ends. Again, this will only energize that half of the panel that the outlet's circuit breaker is connected to. If you configure all the essential breakers in your panel on that same "leg", you can then select which device you want to run. You cannot however power devices that require 220.
Note that the male end of the extension cord not connected to the generator is HOT so always plug this into the outlet before plugging into the generator.
Proceed at your own risk. Confidence without competence is a dangerous thing.
Oh, and did I mention ALWAYS TURN OFF THE MAIN BEFORE ENERGIZING THE PANEL!


Doing this is illegal. You need a transfer switch or interlock.

Same generator for $270.00 at Lowes on clearance in Harlingen,Tx. Sorry I have no link!

There are 3 plug in receptacles on this generator;
(1) 120V 30A Twist-lock receptacle powering 120V loads requiring up to 25A or 3,500 Watts protected by generator's 25A circuit breaker.
(2) RV receptacle powers 3,500 watts of power but without the circuit breker protection (since RV's already have them built in)
(3) Standard 120V receptacle is only good up to 2,400 watts but protected by a 20A circuit breaker.

Therefore, in order to fully tap into the 3,500 watts of power this generator is capable of producing, one must utilize the (1)twist-lock receptacle or (2)30A RV receptacle. However, since only the twist-lock receptacle is protected by a 25A circuit breaker, it would be wise to purchase an adapter for it instead of the RV receptacle adapter. This Coleman Twist Lock Adapter for $8.74is the cheapest one I was able to find and seems to be of high quality.

Saw a 9000 W of this model in costco today for 699$. I think this is a good deal as well for this kind of power. One suggestion everyone I talk to giving is -- get the wiring done by an electrician, DO NOT DO IT YOURSELF..

ysspo said:   There are 3 plug in receptacles on this generator;
(1) 120V 30A Twist-lock receptacle powering 120V loads requiring up to 25A or 3,500 Watts protected by generator's 25A circuit breaker.
(2) RV receptacle powers 3,500 watts of power but without the circuit breker protection (since RV's already have them built in)
(3) Standard 120V receptacle is only good up to 2,400 watts but protected by a 20A circuit breaker.

Therefore, in order to fully tap into the 3,500 watts of power this generator is capable of producing, one must utilize the (1)twist-lock receptacle or (2)30A RV receptacle. However, since only the twist-lock receptacle is protected by a 25A circuit breaker, it would be wise to purchase an adapter for it instead of the RV receptacle adapter. This Coleman Twist Lock Adapter for $8.74is the cheapest one I was able to find and seems to be of high quality.


I noticed the adapter you linked to is L5-20P, which is 20A rated. The receptacle is a L5-30P, which is 30A. Are they physically the same connector? Any risk trying to draw 5A over the cord rating? Would something like this be better, although more expensive?

momoman said:   i've decided to test my brand new champion 3500w generator i bought 4 yrs ago ($150 AR deal) and.........it didn't work. i filled it with oil and new gasoline and pulled and pulled and pulled. i went to the champion website and they have a technical bulletin to troubleshoot the generator. i performed all the tests and my generator passed all the tests but still didn't fire up. i also disconnected the low oil sensor. it never fired even once so i suspected it might be a clog somewhere. i took the carburetor off the generator (easily done) and sprayed carburetor cleaner down the jet and then put everything back together and...........it fired up!

i had searched the 'net and apparently new generators that have been sitting unused sometimes have a varnish build up in the carburetor jet from the residual gasoline used to test fire the generator at the factory.

my advice is to keep a can of carburetor cleaner around and learn how to troubleshoot your generator.

here are some links that helped me:

champion troubleshooting bulletin
champion faqs
champion carburetor tear down instructions

it really wasn't that difficult to pull the carburetor off and squirt the cleaner down the jet. i didn't need to use compressed air to clear the jet. the cleaner quickly dissolved whatever it was that was clogging the jet.

now that my generator works and is broken in i'm going to order the tri-fuel conversion kit so i can run it off propane that i can safely store long term. lots of doomsday survivalists and the RV crowd have had success with their champion generators running on propane.


Usually a shot of "starting fluid" (ether) will cause any engine without a thrown rod to fire right off. It's a tremendous help with stubborn starting engines. Usually stubborn starting engines are due to gunked up carburetors. A lot of time getting it to fire off on ether will get the engine pulling enough of a vacuum that the fuel will start flowing through the carburetor normally.

Second question for someone who knows more than me.

Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like all the receptacles are downstream from the 25A breaker, with another one (20A) just on the normal plug. It would seem to me that the most you will ever get out of this is 25A, even when running two receptacles. Watts = Volts x Amps, so 120V x 25A = 3000 W, you will never get the 3500W it claims. Am I wrong?

momoman said:   i've decided to test my brand new champion 3500w generator i bought 4 yrs ago ($150 AR deal) and.........it didn't work. i filled it with oil and new gasoline and pulled and pulled and pulled. i went to the champion website and they have a technical bulletin to troubleshoot the generator. i performed all the tests and my generator passed all the tests but still didn't fire up. i also disconnected the low oil sensor. it never fired even once so i suspected it might be a clog somewhere. i took the carburetor off the generator (easily done) and sprayed carburetor cleaner down the jet and then put everything back together and...........it fired up!

i had searched the 'net and apparently new generators that have been sitting unused sometimes have a varnish build up in the carburetor jet from the residual gasoline used to test fire the generator at the factory.

my advice is to keep a can of carburetor cleaner around and learn how to troubleshoot your generator.

here are some links that helped me:

champion troubleshooting bulletin
champion faqs
champion carburetor tear down instructions

it really wasn't that difficult to pull the carburetor off and squirt the cleaner down the jet. i didn't need to use compressed air to clear the jet. the cleaner quickly dissolved whatever it was that was clogging the jet.

now that my generator works and is broken in i'm going to order the tri-fuel conversion kit so i can run it off propane that i can safely store long term. lots of doomsday survivalists and the RV crowd have had success with their champion generators running on propane.


I have the exact the same generator from tear down link. It been sitting in my garage since 2007 and about time to fire up. Here is my post back in 2007. http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/arcmessageview.php?catid=18&thre...

IF your budget allows, i would heavily recommend a LP Gas Generator, they tend to cost a little more, but it is so easy to stock up on fuel BEFORE a storm, also much safer no need to deal with liquid fuel, are cleaner for the engine so no varnish buildup or leftover 'old' fuel., and you won't have to make the daily pilgrimage to a gas station EVERYDAY like people with gas generators did during Sandy.

thanks OP...jumped on it while I could, so I thank you for posting.

I would like to convert to tri fuel, so if anyone has any experience or links for correct parts for this unit it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks to OP. Jumped in for one this morning before work. Guess they sold out during the day.

Hopefully we don't need it this winter. Now onto some gas cans!!

It was sold out before and came back in stock. Give it a few days....

UPS delivered my genny yesterday. Started it this morning and the genny died every 10 second. I was pissed and called Champion customer service and left a voice mail. Someone called me back in 20 minutes and we started to troubleshoot. Took the low gas sensor off and the genny started on first pull. Sounds good! right. Wrong. The power output was terrible- voltmeter jumps between 85-120V vigorously. Troubleshooting again, and after removing the regulator assembly from the generator part, now there is no power output at all. Tech support was super nice even though it is super difficult to talk to someone when the generator is running.. So, I got a lemon. Calling back to Champion Monday to have them send me a new regulator.

Can I get a converter to plug into a 240outlet? Previous owners have a switch installed, but its 240. Any cable I can use to get this to feed at least the 30A 120v into the existing 240 outlet?

Back in stock in case anyone else still wants one.

suezyque said:   You can get this adaptor @ Cabela's.
I purchased this adaptor from Amazon.
I then purchased this cord set from Home Depot. The packaging states these are light duty, although they have 12 gauge wires. They are nice extension cords at a very good price.


Thanks for the good ideas. I chose to extend the L5-30P via a longer adapter so that the 12gauge extension cords are used inside the home.

Look for this on eBay: 25 ft 10/3 Generator Power Cord with L5-30P Plug and (3) Lighted 5-15R

Can't find it anywhere on Cabela's website,must be dead like the horse I'm ridin


Longer cord for those in need of a decent 12/4 and a good price as well , http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100665723/h_d2/ProductDi...

buster2 said:   Longer cord for those in need of a decent 12/4 and a good price as well , http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100665723/h_d2/ProductDi...

That cord has the wrong connector for this generator. The three prong twist lock is designated as L5-30 . Search for that when looking for a cord.

Thanks, but I can't convince myself buying approx $90 worth accessories for $300 generator......any cheaper option?

suezyque said:   You can get this adaptor @ Cabela's.
I purchased this adaptor from Amazon.
I then purchased this cord set from Home Depot. The packaging states these are light duty, although they have 12 gauge wires. They are nice extension cords at a very good price.



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