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JDdoc said:   I don't know how to "prove" this without scanning you my individual deal documents. I try to contribute here, but requiring that kind of proof on my part is beyond what I'd consider appropriate.

Mainly, my post was mainly to just give a realistic "target" of what you should shoot for in a X5 lease.



For what it's worth...I think you did a good job in explaining this deal. As proven above...some don't really understand leasing...or even want to put forth the effort to research car prices/deals to find the best value.

Not every good deal has an easy "add to cart" button.

JDdoc said:   GADOM and Eurotrash -
The 500 monthly is with a car sold at +/- $500 of invoice price.


Ah, ok, that's the key right there. With all the boxes checked except for 3rd row seating, the MSRP of the car is $56,225 with an invoice of $51,730. If the dealer is willing to let it go for invoice (or very close to invoice) and you throw in the $2,000 in incentives then you're into a cap cost of $49k. Paying multiple security deposits to lower the MF adds the little extra to get you down to around $500/month.

For others who are trying to replicate this deal on a loaded X5 you'll need 3 things:
1. A dealer willing to let the car go at very close to invoice. If inventories are high and new generation MY2014's are most likely covered sitting in the dealer's back lot, he's probably willing to do this.
2. The ability to take advantage of both the $1k in event cash and $1k in loyalty cash. If you don't have a BMW (for the loyalty cash) you can pay $1k as a down payment.
3. If you want to hit that $500/month payment you may have to pay multiple security deposits. This is not a down payment as you get these deposits back at the end of the lease so long as there's no excess wear and tear. BMW allows you to make up to 7 deposits dropping your MF by 0.00007 for each deposit (so a max of 0.00049 reduction).

Please be aware that although it's a $0 down lease, you'll still need to outlay a good chunk of cash to drive off: dealer & licensing fees, acquisition fee, taxes, and the security deposits. It's not out of the question that you'll be paying a few grand to drive off but the deal is legit. What makes this pencil is the steep discount to invoice, the $2k in incentives, a high RV, and by making an already low MF even lower by paying multiple security deposits. It's sort of like a perfect storm. Nice work!

If you're going to be interested in these deals in the future, you might want to join the BMW Car Club of America. After one year of membership, you're eligible for additional rebates that you don't even have to bring up at the negotiation.

http://www.bmwcca.org/vehicle_rebate

Thank you JDdoc for your post. I just talked to Elvis and he confirmed everything you said. Great deal.

all car deals are different. as we all know, every deal depends on car options, credit score, dealer inventory, time of the month/year, model change, etc.
even if you show a sales guy signed docs that *my friend* got, you'll only get excuse after excuse. no more inventory with those options, promotion ended, ... blah blah blah.

here is a deal on their site:
bmw website
this is for a base model close to bare-bones. This also assumes you already have a bimmer (1K bonus). Rarely seen one without a $$$ package on dealer lots.
this is like a crazy low priced ad on a newspaper with fine print that says "only 1 at this price".

As OP said, i think $500/month should be a target for a base X5 with packages/options.

I'm about to sign my lease later this week. MSRP of 62K. $650/month for 36 months. 9.75% tax in LA is painful.

site note: was also looking at an infiniti. After 3 hours of *dancing*, finally agreed on $2K under invoice on a $55K(msrp) JX35. walked on the deal. nothing like that on a bimmer. even on an outgoing model.

belgique said:   GAS hog with a split grill...

It's a 5000+ lb SUV that gets 23mpg on the highway. What kind of mileage do you expect? My X5 V8 maxes out at 15mpg, but I didn't get it for the mileage.

Really? The X5 xDrive35d Specs itself claims 26 mpg. I am surprised that the real world mileage is higher than the manufacturers claim.

freshpl said:   love my x5 Diesel getting 30+mpg

Really? The X5 xDrive35d Specs claims 26 mpg only. I am surprised that the actual mileage is higher than the manufacturers claim.

SenthilJ said:   freshpl said:   love my x5 Diesel getting 30+mpg

Really? The X5 xDrive35d Specs claims 26 mpg only. I am surprised that the actual mileage is higher than the manufacturers claim.


I get 16.5 mpg on my 750LI in city. BMW advertises 15mpg. It is about how you drive. If I see a red light I take the foot off gas. So many times I have seen retards driving fast to the light and then braking hard.

OP, that is a great lease for an X5. Thanks for posting such a detail around your deal.

starlights said:   SSi said:   

In retrospect, for all luxury German cars, I would suggest getting a certified used. You would get a much better deal.


I completely agree - my last car was a late 2006 330Ci which I bought in 2008 Certified pre owned with just 1900 miles - perhaps a lease return - saved me over 15K from new sticker price. It came with a 6 yr 100K mile Extended BMW Warranty and 4 Yr 50K miles free maintenance - I was later able to buy additional 50K 2 Yr maintenance for $1800 - All i ever spent on the car was to change the tires once and gas. Loved it.


CPO is just a high priced insurance policy. Better to go w/ non CPO. CPO doesn't guarantee it hasn't been in a wreck. Never lease, never buy new... uh... unless you're all thumbs & don't know much about how to repair cars.

Not interested in an X5, but this was an eye opening thread.

Just reserved to go to a Drive Event this weekend and hopefully by the end of the month, I'll have that X3 xDrive28i that I've been eyeing. Thanks OP!!

supersnoop00 said:   If you're going to be interested in these deals in the future, you might want to join the BMW Car Club of America. After one year of membership, you're eligible for additional rebates that you don't even have to bring up at the negotiation.

http://www.bmwcca.org/vehicle_rebate


Snoop how do you get the rebate? Do i have to join the club or something? I am on my 3rd BMW and i don't even know that they have rebates. I loose out on $2K

did anyone actually buy this deal and get the exact monthly payment? no hands? green anyway guys!! yeah!!

JDdoc said:   ...so perhaps giving a call to "Elvis" and giving your terms would be helpful?

Waiting for the flames about "calling elvis"... oh well

I tried to call him but the receptionist said he had left the building.

Where are you located?

lernerssolutions said:   Where are you located?

I'm over here.


If you're inquiring about OP...he already told you where he found the deal: Ramsey, NJ

This actually sounds like a great deal. I usually buy cars in cash because I really dislike payments, but I also buy used cars and avoid newer cars because of their complexities and electric shenanigans. I am very competent in working on cars running a side business doing specialty Subaru work, but just because I can doesn't mean I particularly enjoy spending a weekend tracking down stupid electrical problems that shouldn't be computer controlled in the first place...like light bulbs.

We currently have an Volvo XC90 V8 which is a great car, but it's a 2006. This would be great in addition to the Volvo. The N55 engine in the X5 is an amazing engine, but all of the electrical complexity around it worries me. Since the car will be under the comprehensive bumper-bumper warranty the entire time, and since maintenance is included, I don't have a thing to worry about during the lease period.

If at the end I decide I like the car and feel comfortable enough working on it, I can always purchase it in cash at the end.

Green for you, I might go to check it out this weekend.

You are not honestly comparing a 270hp/248tq naturally aspirated 3.5l v6 lexus to a 300hp/300tq 3.0l inline 6 turbocharged bmw now are you?

have you driven the lexus? the power is like putting your foot down into a pot of mashed potatoes.

furthermore you can chip the x5 and get another 100hp out of it with no other mechanical mods, you can add even more with several hundred in upgrades (which you wouldn't do on a leased vehicle).

SenthilJ said:   Really? The X5 xDrive35d Specs itself claims 26 mpg. I am surprised that the real world mileage is higher than the manufacturers claim.

this always happens with BMWs. They are geared for sportier driving and have 7 & 8 speed automatics. This leads to less than optimal mpg readings on an EPA dyno. In real world driving when you are doing going on the hwy and just putzing around town...not running it in a higher rpm range for fun...gas mileage skyrockets.

Also if I recall this model got the engine start/stop feature...so it shuts down when you aren't moving...it saves a of gas by not overly running in idle.

Shouldn't this be a ///X5?

EuroTrash, why do you add RV to Cap Cost in mothly interest formula?

Thanks OP! In for 2!!

I have never leased a vehicle. Can you trade in your current vehicle on a lease? DO they just take the trade in value from th eprice of the car?

Morro said:   EuroTrash, why do you add RV to Cap Cost in mothly interest formula?

Yeah, it doesn't seem like it makes sense but this is part of the formula used to determine the interest charge. It's really a simplified version without having to put together a complicated annuity formula. For a breakdown, check out this link:

http://www.leaseguide.com/mf2400.htm

chocula said:   I have never leased a vehicle. Can you trade in your current vehicle on a lease? DO they just take the trade in value from th eprice of the car?

Yes you can. Whatever your trade in is worth will be applied as a cap cost reduction (essentially a down payment) reducing your monthly lease payment. Remember to always negotiate every bit as much as you can since the dealer will always try and make you focus on just the monthly payment. Never fall for this. Leasing is just a financial tool...you will want to make sure you're getting a good deal on the price of the car, the value of your trade, and the interest rate.

Having said that it's generally not a good idea to put a down payment on a leased car. Although it lowers your monthly payment you run the risk of losing your down payment in the event the car is totaled. You're better off making multiple security deposits, like OP, to reduce the payment.

I have a 2012 BMW X5, original MSRP was just over $65,000. I don't like the car for multiple reason, the entry / exit point are not good for taller folks & I like have to literally dive into it. The engine randomly whines loud while you're driving, it's like it's another engine running. Then you notice a disconnect between the transmission & the engine, it's almost like there's no power there or the transmission doesn't want to accept it. The halo daytime lights look cool then the regular light turn on and hide them, it's like where's that cool halo ?? The rear-gate also has a tendency to not go up all the way, so then you're pushing it up manually. Good luck trying to pop the rear with the remote, you'll be hitting the button & setting the alarm off (which is the exact opposite thing you want to do while loading the back up).

It's a pretty stupid car & I'll be getting rid of it soon. Gas mileage also sucks & it seems to just like to burn gas randomly. The current value on the car with normal miles after 2 years is about $39,000, a $26,000 swing from MSRP (~$1,100 a month hit). If you're going to get this pig, lease it & check your height is below 5'8".

EuroTrash said:   chocula said:   I have never leased a vehicle. Can you trade in your current vehicle on a lease? DO they just take the trade in value from th eprice of the car?

Yes you can. Whatever your trade in is worth will be applied as a cap cost reduction (essentially a down payment) reducing your monthly lease payment. Remember to always negotiate every bit as much as you can since the dealer will always try and make you focus on just the monthly payment. Never fall for this. Leasing is just a financial tool...you will want to make sure you're getting a good deal on the price of the car, the value of your trade, and the interest rate.

Having said that it's generally not a good idea to put a down payment on a leased car. Although it lowers your monthly payment you run the risk of losing your down payment in the event the car is totaled. You're better off making multiple security deposits, like OP, to reduce the payment.


Thanks for the reply.

I read the thread and saw where the multiple deposits were discussed, but I was unsure what exactly that meant.

If I give a security deposit, but get it back, what exactly is it for? Some kind of guarantee to the dealer?

Can I use my trade in for that?

Sorry for the questions, but I have never looked into leasing nor have I considered it until this thread.

I have always liked these vehicles and would really like to get one.

chocula said:   Thanks for the reply.

I read the thread and saw where the multiple deposits were discussed, but I was unsure what exactly that meant.

If I give a security deposit, but get it back, what exactly is it for? Some kind of guarantee to the dealer?

Can I use my trade in for that?

Sorry for the questions, but I have never looked into leasing nor have I considered it until this thread.

I have always liked these vehicles and would really like to get one.


Yes, it's to protect the leasing company in case of excess wear and tear and excess mileage. At the end of the lease term (here it's 39 months) you'll need to get your car inspected and any damages assessed will be pulled from your security deposit. Paying a bunch of security deposits upfront gives the leasing company peace of mind that they have some of your cash to pay for excess wear. In return they lower your money factor. Otherwise, the leasing company will have to go through the hassle of chasing after you to collect on the excess wear charges even after you turn in the car. It's amazing the kinds of stories people come up with to avoid these end of lease charges.

Of course if you take good care of your car, do regular maintenance, and keep within the allotted miles 100% of your security deposits will be refunded back to you. That's how it typically works but who knows what kinds of games dealers will pull. I would make sure to get in writing that the deposits are refundable.

As for whether or not you can use your trade-in for these security deposits that I'm not sure about.

you can use it towards security deposit, no problem.

EuroTrash said:   chocula said:   Thanks for the reply.

I read the thread and saw where the multiple deposits were discussed, but I was unsure what exactly that meant.

If I give a security deposit, but get it back, what exactly is it for? Some kind of guarantee to the dealer?

Can I use my trade in for that?

Sorry for the questions, but I have never looked into leasing nor have I considered it until this thread.

I have always liked these vehicles and would really like to get one.


Yes, it's to protect the leasing company in case of excess wear and tear and excess mileage. At the end of the lease term (here it's 39 months) you'll need to get your car inspected and any damages assessed will be pulled from your security deposit. Paying a bunch of security deposits upfront gives the leasing company peace of mind that they have some of your cash to pay for excess wear. In return they lower your money factor. Otherwise, the leasing company will have to go through the hassle of chasing after you to collect on the excess wear charges even after you turn in the car. It's amazing the kinds of stories people come up with to avoid these end of lease charges.

Of course if you take good care of your car, do regular maintenance, and keep within the allotted miles 100% of your security deposits will be refunded back to you. That's how it typically works but who knows what kinds of games dealers will pull. I would make sure to get in writing that the deposits are refundable.

As for whether or not you can use your trade-in for these security deposits that I'm not sure about.

I'll admit I didn't read posts in great detail, but how the heck did a lease deal get such a positive rating?! So many lease haters here.

So, this doesn't look like much of a deal versus purchase, but not the typical crummy deal leasing usually is. On the base version, if you take advantage of their 3.05% financing for 72 months, you pay about $700/month, or about $53,400 total (using the $3000 lease deposit as a down payment for purchase). If you lease, you pay $489 (plus tax, don't forget, so about $525/month, depending on your sales tax) over 39 months, then $27,900 to buy at the end (or $50,500 total), except you really have to assume you would have to finance for the remaining 33 months of the 72 month comparison, so $489 times 39 plus $885 times 33 months (assuming you can still get 3% financing) is about $53,600 total. The only way you come out ahead in the money with the lease is if you negotiate down the residual, and based on estimated depreciation of $21,000 (source: Edmunds) on a vehicle with a $48,925.00 MSRP, that's not very likely.

I suppose if you factor in the ability to walk away at the end of the lease, that's something, but a purchase gives you the option to sell at any time, even if depreciation makes that painful. With the lease, if you can't make the payments, there isn't a clean way out. Then again, if you could string together 3 leases of 39 months at these rates, it costs $67,500 (3 $3000 deposits in there), whereas a purchase of $56,400 will get you a vehicle for 3 times 39 months = about 10 years, and maintenance and repairs on the one car could very well be $11,000, making the lease a breakeven to financing, again if you can string three deals together and get free maintenance. So if you are prepared to buy off lease if they don't offer you another deal, I'd say go for it.

But remember this is on the base vehicle. Usually any upgrade drives the lease up way faster than the value of the added options. But if this is the one you've been craving, not bad versus buying.

For a lease to be a real deal usually means at least a 25% cap cost reduction. In 2006, Volvo was blowing XC70s out with a $10,000 cap cost reduction. The purchase price was $19,000 after 39 months, when cars on the street were going for $25,000. Heck, almost two years after buying off lease, a freak minor accident totaled the car and we still got $22,000 for it.

Now I don't see it in print, but if you can get a Premium for the published terms on a Base, that's a deal. The OP's $520/month claim with $0 down on the equivalent of a Premium MSRP is a screaming deal (like $2000 total out of pocket less than the base deal, with $7000 extra content), but I understand the hesitation to run to the dealer and ask for it. If it sounds too good to be true...

Repost, sorry.

There are places that help people take over other people's remaining lease payments, you could always trade the car in as well.

dbphillips said:   I'll admit I didn't read posts in great detail, but how the heck did a lease deal get such a positive rating?! So many lease haters here.

So, this doesn't look like much of a deal versus purchase, but not the typical crummy deal leasing usually is. On the base version, if you take advantage of their 3.05% financing for 72 months, you pay about $700/month, or about $53,400 total (using the $3000 lease deposit as a down payment for purchase). If you lease, you pay $489 (plus tax, don't forget, so about $525/month, depending on your sales tax) over 39 months, then $27,900 to buy at the end (or $50,500 total), except you really have to assume you would have to finance for the remaining 33 months of the 72 month comparison, so $489 times 39 plus $885 times 33 months (assuming you can still get 3% financing) is about $53,600 total. The only way you come out ahead in the money with the lease is if you negotiate down the residual, and based on estimated depreciation of $21,000 (source: Edmunds) on a vehicle with a $48,925.00 MSRP, that's not very likely.

I suppose if you factor in the ability to walk away at the end of the lease, that's something, but a purchase gives you the option to sell at any time, even if depreciation makes that painful. With the lease, if you can't make the payments, there isn't a clean way out. Then again, if you could string together 3 leases of 39 months at these rates, it costs $67,500 (3 $3000 deposits in there), whereas a purchase of $56,400 will get you a vehicle for 3 times 39 months = about 10 years, and maintenance and repairs on the one car could very well be $11,000, making the lease a breakeven to financing, again if you can string three deals together and get free maintenance. So if you are prepared to buy off lease if they don't offer you another deal, I'd say go for it.

But remember this is on the base vehicle. Usually any upgrade drives the lease up way faster than the value of the added options. But if this is the one you've been craving, not bad versus buying.

For a lease to be a real deal usually means at least a 25% cap cost reduction. In 2006, Volvo was blowing XC70s out with a $10,000 cap cost reduction. The purchase price was $19,000 after 39 months, when cars on the street were going for $25,000. Heck, almost two years after buying off lease, a freak minor accident totaled the car and we still got $22,000 for it.

Now I don't see it in print, but if you can get a Premium for the published terms on a Base, that's a deal. The OP's $520/month claim with $0 down on the equivalent of a Premium MSRP is a screaming deal (like $2000 total out of pocket less than the base deal, with $7000 extra content), but I understand the hesitation to run to the dealer and ask for it. If it sounds too good to be true...

Thanks euro for all the follow-up clarifications

As an aside, it was a strange juxtaposition of FW and real life when elvis asked me who was calling him (? With a southern accent) to verify my deal - Apparently said the caller was a "friend" of mine but then kept referring to me as "the gentleman"...

I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

VicVinegar said:   I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

not sure if this is a troll post or not, but the interceptor is much nicer imo. research electric water pumps on bmw's, oh and enjoy replacing the battery

cptbarkey189 said:   VicVinegar said:   I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

not sure if this is a troll post or not, but the interceptor is much nicer imo. research electric water pumps on bmw's, oh and enjoy replacing the battery


While I agree that most german cars are over-engineered and needing to register a new battery with the computer is pretty lame, I have enjoyed every minute of my time behind the wheel or under the hood of an E36, E46, and E60. I don't think the same could be said about a police interceptor.

Also, very few cars are without their drawbacks..so I'll see your electric water pump on BMWs and raise you a plastic intake manifold on the Ford V8.

JDdoc, that was me that called Elvis to check on the deal. I thought I thoroughly explained why I was calling, certainly not saying I was your friend. I said I was calling from Atlanta, but since I'm from Detroit, probably no southern accent. Still a great deal.

jcantanixon said:   cptbarkey189 said:   VicVinegar said:   I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

not sure if this is a troll post or not, but the interceptor is much nicer imo. research electric water pumps on bmw's, oh and enjoy replacing the battery


While I agree that most german cars are over-engineered and needing to register a new battery with the computer is pretty lame, I have enjoyed every minute of my time behind the wheel or under the hood of an E36, E46, and E60. I don't think the same could be said about a police interceptor.

Also, very few cars are without their drawbacks..so I'll see your electric water pump on BMWs and raise you a plastic intake manifold on the Ford V8.


plastic intake manifold was fixed in 2001.

all bmw's right now have an electric water pump.

tell me which one is worse.

VicVinegar said:   I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

Go with a X5 Police Interceptor.



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