• Go to page :
  • 12 3
  • Text Only
respdoc said:   VicVinegar said:   I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

Go with a X5 Police Interceptor.




http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8581689180_17970b0562_o.jpg

Now, for the rest of you;

Are you guys seriously comparing an American fleet workhouse sedan vs. a German luxary SUV (Sorry, BMW calls it a SAV)?

Those cars couldn't be further different.

One is designed to be cheap to build, cheap to maintain, cheap to fix, and cheap to operate, and will last well over 200k miles and was designed in the early 90's.

The other is a luxury SUV with enough accessories to make you a morning espresso...and targeted at people that would rather drop it off at a dealer if anything breaks.

Stop comparing the two. You can't. Two completely different cars with completely different target consumers with completely different goals.

atomicfire said:   respdoc said:   VicVinegar said:   I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

Go with a X5 Police Interceptor.




http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8529/8581689180_17970b0562_o.jpg

Now, for the rest of you;

Are you guys seriously comparing an American fleet workhouse sedan vs. a German luxary SUV (Sorry, BMW calls it a SAV)?

Those cars couldn't be further different.

One is designed to be cheap to build, cheap to maintain, cheap to fix, and cheap to operate, and will last well over 200k miles and was designed in the early 90's.

The other is a luxury SUV with enough accessories to make you a morning espresso...and targeted at people that would rather drop it off at a dealer if anything breaks.

Stop comparing the two. You can't. Two completely different cars with completely different target consumers with completely different goals.


You are absolutely correct, whoever would cross shop an X5 and a Crown Victoria already has issues far beyond the topic of this post.

Way off topic now

cptbarkey189 said:   

plastic intake manifold was fixed in 2001.

all bmw's right now have an electric water pump.

tell me which one is worse.


<shrug> I don't know why Ford went to the plastic manifold, or what the fix was. I do know that BMW is still using Electric Water Pumps because they consider it an improvement. Sure, it's not as reliable as a mechanical water pump, but they're more efficient(no engine drag), are able to increase the flow according to temp instead of RPM, and provide coolant to the turbos/engine/transmission after engine shutdown. Can't do that with a mechanical pump. Besides, BMW previously had issues with the mech water pump on the E36s..so they weren't that reliable anyway. Haha.

Reliability has taken a backseat to efficiency these days. They even stop/restart the engines at stop lights now, and you know that puts more wear and tear on everything just for a fraction of a fraction of mpg.

I enjoy proven designs and old school engineering as much as the next guy, but that doesn't mean I despise today's technology. Try spinning the tires on a Tesla Model S. The sound of tires squealing with absolutely zero engine noise is a strange experience.

respdoc said:   VicVinegar said:   I was just about to buy a used Police Interceptor at auction, but this deal looks good. Think I'll go with the BMW now.

Go with a X5 Police Interceptor.


Best po po Interceptor

Anyone go get one of these ?

polishdreamer said:   I have a 2012 BMW X5, original MSRP was just over $65,000. I don't like the car for multiple reason, the entry / exit point are not good for taller folks & I like have to literally dive into it. The engine randomly whines loud while you're driving, it's like it's another engine running. Then you notice a disconnect between the transmission & the engine, it's almost like there's no power there or the transmission doesn't want to accept it. The halo daytime lights look cool then the regular light turn on and hide them, it's like where's that cool halo ?? The rear-gate also has a tendency to not go up all the way, so then you're pushing it up manually. Good luck trying to pop the rear with the remote, you'll be hitting the button & setting the alarm off (which is the exact opposite thing you want to do while loading the back up).[/quote]

I've got an E70 X5 and I don't recognize any of those items. I'm over six feet tall and it's the most comfortable vehicle I've ever owned, especially with the comfort seat package. The only issue I've ever experienced getting in and out is rubbing my legs on the useless running boards, which I wouldn't get again and have actually been thinking about removing from mine.

[quote]It's a pretty stupid car & I'll be getting rid of it soon. Gas mileage also sucks & it seems to just like to burn gas randomly. The current value on the car with normal miles after 2 years is about $39,000, a $26,000 swing from MSRP (~$1,100 a month hit). If you're going to get this pig, lease it & check your height is below 5'8".


Almost all $65k cars are going to depreciate the same way, so the X5 is not unique in that regard. In any case, what is unique about the X5 is the way it drives, especially when equipped with the Dynamic Drive system and Active Steering. I've never seen such a large, heavy vehicle that absolutely refuses to lean at all in the corners like a properly-equipped X5. I mean, the car isn't without its flaws, but I've never heard anyone be surprised at the depreciation or claim that people over 5'8" can't get in and out and stay comfortable inside.

Here are the flaws I've found after 85k miles on mine:
1) Not the most reliable car around, but I'm comfortable with that.
2) A/C is kind of weak, especially with the 4-zone system.
3) Third row seat only available with runflat tires and are so small as to be useless for anyone but small children.
4) Interior wears pretty easily.
5) The rear DVD system is horribly placed on the rear of the console between the front seats. Always in the way, no matter what.

I saw an X5 today and it looked like it was half thge size of what I thought thgese cars were. Did BMX drastically change the size of these vehicles over the past 4 years or so?

chocula said:    Did BMX drastically change the size of these vehicles over the past 4 years or so?

Yes, BMX controls their design dept. Can't wait for the two-wheel M5 coming out next year.

Man... wish I could afford something like this. Love BMW's

So if my math is correct, after 39 months you have paid $19500 and what do you own? Nothing.
My boss owns a BMW SUV, and its constantly in the shop. His previous sedan also caused him problems. Yet he swears by the brand.

Better to buy a new car, preferably a Toyota or Honda, that is reliable and keep it for the long haul.
My 1993 Toyota still going strong for daily running around, and my 2005 Toyota will remain with me for at least another 13. Its a perfect trip car.

pbmc said:   So if my math is correct, after 39 months you have paid $19500 and what do you own? Nothing.
My boss owns a BMW SUV, and its constantly in the shop. His previous sedan also caused him problems. Yet he swears by the brand.

Better to buy a new car, preferably a Toyota or Honda, that is reliable and keep it for the long haul.
My 1993 Toyota still going strong for daily running around, and my 2005 Toyota will remain with me for at least another 13. Its a perfect trip car.


Yeah, I was talking to your boss the other day, and he told me how much he enjoys driving it. Since he can afford it, he figures there's no issue with spending more on a vehicle that's worth it to him. Of course, he completely understands that everyone has the choice to buy what vehicle they want to, and would never bash someone else's choice simply because he didn't understand it. He's a pretty great guy.

By the way, he'd like to see you in his office after you get back from lunch.

pbmc said:   So if my math is correct, after 39 months you have paid $19500 and what do you own? Nothing.
My boss owns a BMW SUV, and its constantly in the shop. His previous sedan also caused him problems. Yet he swears by the brand.

Better to buy a new car, preferably a Toyota or Honda, that is reliable and keep it for the long haul.
My 1993 Toyota still going strong for daily running around, and my 2005 Toyota will remain with me for at least another 13. Its a perfect trip car.


I find it interesting when people make the comment that after the end of lease, you own nothing.
In theory, if you were to purchase the same car, it will depreciate similar amount after 39 months- which is basically how a lease is calculated.
It will always be "cheaper" per year if you own a car for a longer period of time- until the repair costs exceed the residual value.
What will be cheaper than buying a new car and keep it for the long haul, is to buy a used car and keep it for the long haul.

simbawang said:   
What will be cheaper than buying a new car and keep it for the long haul, is to buy a used car and keep it for the long haul.



That might be true...if someone assumed the maintenance costs were somehow magically the same. You will have more maintenance costs buying someones seconds..given the shear fact it has more miles/wear and tear (obviously compared to a new car).

What will be cheaper (long-term) is to again..get a great deal on a new car, keep it long-term, keep up the the maintenance (including problems that happen under warranty so they don't become bigger problems after warranty)...and you'll be set.


Since this deal is for a new lease...not even sure why you are bringing up the age old...new vs. used topic.

The cheapest thing would be to not buy a car at all and just use public transportation. But many of us don't care about the absolute cheapest solution. Many of us want our own personal car. And a large subset of that group is willing to pay extra for certain styles and luxuries. The cool thing about the auto market is that it caters to all sorts of different demographics and offers Honda/Toyota boring reliability to some and BMW/Infiniti performance to others. They even sell other combinations of utility/style/performance/price! It's amazing.

Automobiles are pure economic decisions to some. But to most they are not. Therefore telling anyone what the "correct" purchase would be is an exercise in futility and really annoying. Leases can be a decent value for many people on certain cars. They are not for everyone and each deal should be judged on its own merits. But coming to a lease thread to talk about Crown Vics isn't funny anymore. It's just annoying.

QuadesFather said:   The cheapest thing would be to not buy a car at all and just use public transportation.

Hold on there big spender! The cheapest thing to do would be to walk barefoot. That way, you don't even wear out shoes.

EuroTrash said:   Hmm, trying to work out the math here and can't quite get down to $500/month on a $56k car.

Formula for a car lease is two parts:
1. Depreciation: (Cap Cost - Residual Value) / Term
Cap Cost is the final negotiated price of the car after discounts, etc.
Residual value is the RV percentage * MSRP (exclusive of discounts, etc).
2. Interest Charge: (Cap Cost + Residual Value) * Money Factor

Current BMWFS terms:
39-month RV: 57% for 10,000 miles per year.
MF: 0.00072 (this is based on BMW's website where they're showing a $489/mo lease special with $3k down + $1k loyalty cash)

Deal:
MSRP: $56,000
Cap Cost: $54,000 (assuming you get loyalty cash)
RV: $31,920 ($56,000 * 57%)
MF: 0.00072
Term: 39 months

Depreciation: ($54,000 - $31,920)/39 months = $566.15
Interest Charge: ($54,000 + $31,920) * 0.00072 = $61.86
Total Monthly = $566.15 + $61.86 = $628.01

Fees:
Taxes: In most states, taxes are assessed on the monthly payment. In other states you pay tax on the full price of the car even on a lease.
Dealer Processing Fees: Varies by state but typically $400.
Security Deposit: It looks like this is waived, so $0.
Acquisition Fee: $725

Excluding fees, you'll need to negotiate a $56,000 X5 down to $49,000 to get a $500/mo lease payment to get a $0 down deal. If you opt for the stripper X5 with no options and leatherette (MSRP $48,425), you'll need to negotiate this down to $45,000 to hit the $500/mo payment which is more doable if you can combine the $2,000 in incentives currently available.

Leasing isn't a bad way to go so long as you know exactly what you're doing. And remember, you can always negotiate the price of the car and the interest rate (money factor) just like a regular purchase. The only thing you can't negotiate is the residual value which is dictated by BMWFS. Also, make sure you know how your state treats taxes on leased vehicles.

Good luck!


Was someone able to actually get this residual and money factor. Best I've been offered so far is:
money factor is 0.00170
residual is 52%
acquisition is $925
processing is $399
security deposit is 0

I have a few additional questions about this and other leases.

1. Would any car that cost say, $49,000 be able to lease for $500/month (assuming normal or small down payment)?
2. I see the formula for the lease payment, but how do I get some of those numbers for other cars? IN other words, if I found a new Mercedes for $49k, could I get the payment at $500/month?
3. Once the lease is negotiated with the dealer, the payment will then have state taxes added to it? So if I have a 7% tax rate and the payment is $500, my payment will actually be $535?
4. Are there other charges that I would have to consider once the deal was negotiated?


I have never leased a car, nor ever looked into it (probably obvious), so I am trying to decide if I should start looking into leasing or is this simply a great deal.

Thanks

chocula said:   I saw an X5 today and it looked like it was half thge size of what I thought thgese cars were. Did BMX drastically change the size of these vehicles over the past 4 years or so?

Current X5 is the exact same size as the 2007 X5, which was substantially larger than the previous version.

chocula said:   I have a few additional questions about this and other leases.

1. Would any car that cost say, $49,000 be able to lease for $500/month (assuming normal or small down payment)?
2. I see the formula for the lease payment, but how do I get some of those numbers for other cars? IN other words, if I found a new Mercedes for $49k, could I get the payment at $500/month?
3. Once the lease is negotiated with the dealer, the payment will then have state taxes added to it? So if I have a 7% tax rate and the payment is $500, my payment will actually be $535?
4. Are there other charges that I would have to consider once the deal was negotiated?


I have never leased a car, nor ever looked into it (probably obvious), so I am trying to decide if I should start looking into leasing or is this simply a great deal.

Thanks


1. No, the payment is all based on the purchase price of the car and the depreciation amount calculated to exist at the end of the lease.
2. The calculator in windows has a lease function where you can calculate the monthly payment. For the most part the less the depreciation in the lease, the lower the payment.
3. Tax is based on the total vehicle price ex. $49k, not the monthly payment
4. Multiple Security Deposits, Down Payment, Acquisition Fee and total mileage

ViperSSD said:   3. Tax is based on the total vehicle price ex. $49k, not the monthly paymentThis is going to vary from state to state.

chocula said:   I have a few additional questions about this and other leases.

1. Would any car that cost say, $49,000 be able to lease for $500/month (assuming normal or small down payment)?
2. I see the formula for the lease payment, but how do I get some of those numbers for other cars? IN other words, if I found a new Mercedes for $49k, could I get the payment at $500/month?
3. Once the lease is negotiated with the dealer, the payment will then have state taxes added to it? So if I have a 7% tax rate and the payment is $500, my payment will actually be $535?
4. Are there other charges that I would have to consider once the deal was negotiated?


I have never leased a car, nor ever looked into it (probably obvious), so I am trying to decide if I should start looking into leasing or is this simply a great deal.

Thanks


1. In a lease you're paying the depreciation of the car during the time you drive it so technically the answer to your question is yes. But a lot rides on the residual value of the car which can't be negotiated. When working on the formula, the residual value is the listed percentage times MSRP, not the negotiated price of the car. You then subtract this from the negotiated price (cap cost). This is why it's worth it to know the price of the car you're buying and why dealers will try to hide this from you and only focus on the monthly payment.
2. ridewithg.com is a good source to find up-to-date published lease rates. Make sure you check the correct model year as model year 2014's are starting to appear.
3. This varies by state. If you're fortunate you'll have the tax assessed on the monthly payment. If you're unfortunate, then you pay tax on the full price of the car.
4. Down payment, security deposit, licensing and dealer fees, and acquisition fee.

Thanks for the replies. Looked up my local dealer and they had about 130 X5s at their two locations.

tooloud said:   chocula said:   I saw an X5 today and it looked like it was half thge size of what I thought thgese cars were. Did BMX drastically change the size of these vehicles over the past 4 years or so?

Current X5 is the exact same size as the 2007 X5, which was substantially larger than the previous version.


2007 was the year the X5 was redone & larger, I had a V8 version back then (4.8si).

Hi Elvis. You don't negotiate payment, that's what dealers push. Hey, you can put XXX down and pay XXX for XXX months(finance through us for XXX interest).. and pay YYY per month, to fit your budget! YYY is not that important, focus on XXX.

JDdoc said:   GADOM and Eurotrash -
The 500 monthly is with a car sold at +/- $500 of invoice price. Here, the invoice would be approximately $51k. Again, I didn't haggle the MSRP, because I knew where the payment should be, so I negotiated the payment.

With the applicable loyalty cash and drive event savings, the payment will approach $500 depending on options. My car is about $7k optioned up so there is a possibility of a sub-$500 payment with a base car - we just wanted to have the nav and the bluetooth, but to get those options, the dealership had spec'd out all of the options.

As with the initial post, a few multiple security deposits (if available in your state) may apply to further reduce the paryment, but as you wrote, the MF is already quite low.

My precise deal:
MSRP $56225 - this is a loaded X5 35i xdrive with every available factory option except for third row seating

0 down
$520 per month
Taxes and fees, multipile security deposits paid at signing (note bank fee is $750 for BMWFS so try not to let the dealer mark it up to $950)
10k miles, 39 months

Not sure how the forum rules work with specific dealers / salespeople, but if it's ok with the mods it was Prestige BMW in Ramsey NJ - salesperson was Elvis. Their drive event is next weekend (august 2,3). I went to a prior drive event at a different dealership and also had the loyalty cash.

From their "system" there are something like >40 X5 3.5's on their lot and the new 2014's are around the corner. Given how fast they came down from their intial offer ($619/month) directly to ($520/month - my walk away price), they really want to move the cars.

From the BMW boards, inventories are high everywhere, so if your local dealer doesn't see it your way now, they probably will very soon.

As a rule, with leasing a car that a dealership wants to move, I have been able to get the published lease monthly payment deal (BMWFS / BMWUSA website) but without the $ downpayment as advertised. The published lease deals are nearly at MSRP and getting the dealership down from the MSRP selling price is key.

Overall, I probably left $10/month on the table with my deal, given how the dealership has acted prior / during the negotiation so ~500 should be very realistic.

Sorry gang, I'm late to the party. My local dealer is advertising the $519 for 2013 x5 (on the website). Though the ones thy listed below are a bit pricier. Probably need to do a bit of negotiations.

There are a few 2014 x1 for lease (another member inquired about the x1), thought I'd mention it.

http://www.peterpanbmw.com/special-offers.aspx

EuroTrash said:   JDdoc said:   GADOM and Eurotrash -
The 500 monthly is with a car sold at +/- $500 of invoice price.


Ah, ok, that's the key right there. With all the boxes checked except for 3rd row seating, the MSRP of the car is $56,225 with an invoice of $51,730. If the dealer is willing to let it go for invoice (or very close to invoice) and you throw in the $2,000 in incentives then you're into a cap cost of $49k. Paying multiple security deposits to lower the MF adds the little extra to get you down to around $500/month.

For others who are trying to replicate this deal on a loaded X5 you'll need 3 things:
1. A dealer willing to let the car go at very close to invoice. If inventories are high and new generation MY2014's are most likely covered sitting in the dealer's back lot, he's probably willing to do this.
2. The ability to take advantage of both the $1k in event cash and $1k in loyalty cash. If you don't have a BMW (for the loyalty cash) you can pay $1k as a down payment.
3. If you want to hit that $500/month payment you may have to pay multiple security deposits. This is not a down payment as you get these deposits back at the end of the lease so long as there's no excess wear and tear. BMW allows you to make up to 7 deposits dropping your MF by 0.00007 for each deposit (so a max of 0.00049 reduction).

Please be aware that although it's a $0 down lease, you'll still need to outlay a good chunk of cash to drive off: dealer & licensing fees, acquisition fee, taxes, and the security deposits. It's not out of the question that you'll be paying a few grand to drive off but the deal is legit. What makes this pencil is the steep discount to invoice, the $2k in incentives, a high RV, and by making an already low MF even lower by paying multiple security deposits. It's sort of like a perfect storm. Nice work!


New to leasing here as someone else is in this thread, but have done a little research and obviously am trying to get the best deal possible. I went to my local dealership yesterday to test drive the X5, as I was previously looking at an Audi Q5 as well, but liked the drive of the X5 a lot more. I drove one with the Premium package, but my only real interest is the navigation system and XM. They gave me a print off of the one I drove with an MSRP of $59,645 that included the cold weather package, calculated out to $719/month with $7K down (which was way too high) and 15K miles. Unfortunately, the base 10K miles won't work for me since I do about 300 miles a week in work travel back and forth to the Boston area, so I even need more than the 15K really to include just my around town driving. Obviously the OP went with the base mileage, as far as I can tell, so me getting the $500 deal would be inflated with needing to tack on additional mileage, but interesting to know that I got completely blindsided with a horrible price point yesterday.

simplyzero said:   

New to leasing here as someone else is in this thread, but have done a little research and obviously am trying to get the best deal possible. I went to my local dealership yesterday to test drive the X5, as I was previously looking at an Audi Q5 as well, but liked the drive of the X5 a lot more. I drove one with the Premium package, but my only real interest is the navigation system and XM. They gave me a print off of the one I drove with an MSRP of $59,645 that included the cold weather package, calculated out to $719/month with $7K down (which was way too high) and 15K miles. Unfortunately, the base 10K miles won't work for me since I do about 300 miles a week in work travel back and forth to the Boston area, so I even need more than the 15K really to include just my around town driving. Obviously the OP went with the base mileage, as far as I can tell, so me getting the $500 deal would be inflated with needing to tack on additional mileage, but interesting to know that I got completely blindsided with a horrible price point yesterday.



Unless you have some extraordinary amount of car dealing skills...you won't be able to get the miles you're looking for...at the price point you're looking at.

Those over-mileage charges add up quickly...so that's not a path you want to go down.

If they have a large number of '13 X5's in stock in your area...getting a good price on a purchase (not a lease) makes the most sense in your case.

respdoc said:   simplyzero said:   

New to leasing here as someone else is in this thread, but have done a little research and obviously am trying to get the best deal possible. I went to my local dealership yesterday to test drive the X5, as I was previously looking at an Audi Q5 as well, but liked the drive of the X5 a lot more. I drove one with the Premium package, but my only real interest is the navigation system and XM. They gave me a print off of the one I drove with an MSRP of $59,645 that included the cold weather package, calculated out to $719/month with $7K down (which was way too high) and 15K miles. Unfortunately, the base 10K miles won't work for me since I do about 300 miles a week in work travel back and forth to the Boston area, so I even need more than the 15K really to include just my around town driving. Obviously the OP went with the base mileage, as far as I can tell, so me getting the $500 deal would be inflated with needing to tack on additional mileage, but interesting to know that I got completely blindsided with a horrible price point yesterday.



Unless you have some extraordinary amount of car dealing skills...you won't be able to get the miles you're looking for...at the price point your looking at.

Those over-mileage charges add up quickly...so that's not a path you want to go down.

If they have a large number of '13 X5's in stock in your area...getting a good price on a purchase (not a lease) makes the most sense in your case.


That's what I was unfortunately afraid of. In my mind I'd like to start going the leasing route so I can "trade up" every 3 years when the lease is up and get into a new car to avoid dealing with losing money selling the car back and going through a new process of buying again. However, I suppose you're subjecting yourself to that in a lease to a certain financial degree.

To the point of the mileage charges specifically, the dealership yesterday was explaining that the extra mileage packages break down to $0.15/mile when arranged at the signing of the lease, $0.16/mile during the lease period by calling BMWFS and making a payment or splitting it across your payments, or $0.20/mile when you turn it in. If I just want another 10K miles to be comfortable, can't I just pay BMWFS $1,500 and be done with that part? Still a high price to pay I suppose.

simplyzero said:   

New to leasing here as someone else is in this thread, but have done a little research and obviously am trying to get the best deal possible. I went to my local dealership yesterday to test drive the X5, as I was previously looking at an Audi Q5 as well, but liked the drive of the X5 a lot more. I drove one with the Premium package, but my only real interest is the navigation system and XM. They gave me a print off of the one I drove with an MSRP of $59,645 that included the cold weather package, calculated out to $719/month with $7K down (which was way too high) and 15K miles. Unfortunately, the base 10K miles won't work for me since I do about 300 miles a week in work travel back and forth to the Boston area, so I even need more than the 15K really to include just my around town driving. Obviously the OP went with the base mileage, as far as I can tell, so me getting the $500 deal would be inflated with needing to tack on additional mileage, but interesting to know that I got completely blindsided with a horrible price point yesterday.

They are taking you to the cleaners with this quote even with 15k miles. You really need to learn about leasing and the ins and outs. Best is you go to bimmerfest.com and look at the forums there to see what others are paying. 7k down is ridiculous and if you have this money you should rather use it on multiple security deposits to lower the lease rate.

You won't get loyalty but try to do the Ultimate Driving Event for the 1k rebate (google it) if one of your dealers is offering it. I doubt you will get it close to 500$ but below 600$ looks doable (not enough time to do the calculations but you should learn those yourself anyway, try to find a good lease spreadsheet and you can find invoice numbers, residual and money factors on various BMW related web sites). I don't walk into a dealership without knowing (within 10-20$) what I will pay on a lease and try to deal with somebody that knows what they are talking about rather then trying to take you to the cleaners.

Here is a thread about 2013 lease deals on bimmerfest:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=712739&highlig...

Do your homework there and then you can ask more specific questions over there. Just keep in mind there is a different attitude about money on the forum. It is great if you are set on a BMW and they will help you figure out what a good deal is and how to get it but if you want to argue about the pros and cons of owning a BMW then you better stay here.

I lease for my wife every 2-3 years a new BMW and I like the deals I am getting. But I do know that there are cheaper ways to own a car.

You can pay for more miles and if you want a new car every 3 years leasing is not a bad deal especially on the German luxury cars. Personally I would not prepay for the miles, too many things not known and rather buy the miles during the lease (you have to do it more then 6 month before the lease is up but at least by then you have a better idea).

You'll pay more for the extra miles, but some would advocate leasing for the minimum (10k miles) and paying the overage for mileage. About 3 months prior to lease turn-in, BMW routinely (I think for every lease) allows a purchase of additional miles for a somewhat discounted rate (I think 18c/mile).

I think it's been covered somewhere on FWF but if you take the extra $ you would have spent up front paying for the miles and put it into a 3 year CD, I think it turns out to be the same...

First impressions on the car - Coming from the (2011)550xi we are driving/leasing, the x5 35ixdrive doesn't really feel quite as luxe. That said, Having been in the car for a few days now, the car is a better fit for my family of 5. The engine does need to be flogged a bit to get performance but it does have a good and broad HP range up to near redline. Especially like the split liftgate in the back. This prevents our strawberry and tomato containers from spilling out the back when I open the top liftgate coming home from Costco...

As was in my original post - it is very "FW" to negotiate each line item of the lease - especially the selling price. However, if you crunch your own numbers and walk into the dealership knowing where the payment needs to be, negotiating around that number can really simplify things and possibly get you a better deal as you don't have to rake the salesman through an litany of line items - each individually negotiated. Frankly, most car salesmen don't seem to have that great a handle on the multiple moving parts of a lease anyway and playing an extended game of "telephone" with the back room "sales manager" is probably an experience some would pay some $ to avoid...

I think with this as with most business deals, there is a human component and I would recommend doing your homework, figuring out the invoice price, Money factor, MRM (maximal residualizable amount), term, miles, etc and going in to the dealership knowing probably more than the salesman with whom you are dealing. After that, if you want to sit down with the sales manager and hammer out your deal or just sit with the salesman and tell him your "walk away" price - that is the good deal you've calculated, that's your call. My post was mainly to give a reasonable end point for negotiation and more than anything to point out a potential opportunity. Often when car models are changing, the residual value falls so much, even a very discounted sale price will not compensate (for example the 2012 996 porsche carrera GTS models that were discounted $20k overall and $5-10k below invoice). This is not yet the case with the X5.

you want the best deal possible? buy a bicycle.

Hi, JDdoc,

Can you confirm the MF is 0.00072(before MSD) and RV is 57% for 15k/yr? So if I bring in 7 MSD, then the rate will drop to 0.00023?

And also never believe in the crap of a "buy rate" when the sales told you. It is just another tatic to raise your monthly payment.

wiifit said:   Hi, JDdoc,

Can you confirm the MF is 0.00072(before MSD) and RV is 57% for 15k/yr? So if I bring in 7 MSD, then the rate will drop to 0.00023?


Also a bit confused on this, I am hearing the MF quoted at .00125, is this the "buy rate" is there a cheaper rate?

double

Has anyone actually gotten close to the Sept advertised lease rate?



Disclaimer: By providing links to other sites, FatWallet.com does not guarantee, approve or endorse the information or products available at these sites, nor does a link indicate any association with or endorsement by the linked site to FatWallet.com.

Thanks for visiting FatWallet.com. Join for free to remove this ad.

TRUSTe online privacy certification

While FatWallet makes every effort to post correct information, offers are subject to change without notice.
Some exclusions may apply based upon merchant policies.
© 1999-2014

It's time for an upgrade!

After a decade on our current platform, we're upgrading our plumbing. The site will be down for a few hours starting at 10PM CST tonight.

At FatWallet we strive to bring you the best coupons, deals and Cash Back. So please come back and check us out.