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Update: Mobil 1synthetic: 0w30,5w30,10w30; Kmart $3.99 till 4/25 Archived From: Hot Deals

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damnu said:LiquidFlux said:Jerryxu said:The deal ends on Saturday I believe.
A side note: The 0w30 is particularly hard to find. Autozone and advance auto don't even carry the 0w30. I spoke to a Mobil rep. The 0w30 is suppose to be good to replace all Xw30 oil and it saves gas. I have it in my car, it certainly feels more powerful (compare to the 10w30 dino oil).


0w30 is completely synthetic oil. It really isn't necasary unless you are driving something very powerful, like an SRT-10 or a Porsche. Use it if you choose to, I'll stick with 5w for my Chrysler.

But thanks for the deal!


I think youre getting the wrong idea about the ratings... when it says synthetic, its completely synthetic unlike the synthetic blends, which i think is pure crap. Just think, 1% synthetic and 99% dino would mean its a blend, so unless u really wanna use it, make sure you know how much of each is in it.

ANd NO! dont mix regular oil w/ synthetic, youll get a bad result since the formula wouldnt mix well. Companies make their blends a special way before they sell it. If youre gonna try synthetic for the first time, ease the motor into it by buying BLENDS first for like 1 regular scheduled oil change and then switching over to pure synthetic from then on. Keep in mind it is not recommended to switch if youre over 50-60k, i forgot the #. As it will cause a high rate of sludge buildup in the valves. It is also not recommended to switch back and forth between dino and synthetic as these 2 DOES NOT mix well, which will lead to sludge.

But anyways bout the rating, 0w30 just mean its a less dense, making the car feel like its running lighter w/ less restricting, thats why you get better gas milage. While 15w30 would make it more dense, to offer more protection at the expense of gas milage. So with that in mind, you would actually wanna use 0w30 for daily driving cars vs the higher rating for performance cars.


i hope you are joking, if not then you are grossly misinformed.


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You should put in whatever weight is recommended for your engine. Some are designed to run on the lower viscosity oils. Others are not. You can #@(%$&@ up your engine by running oil that is too light. Call the manufacturer's tech support line and ask about what weight for syntetic oil in your climate.

Synthetic oils are better solvents than 'dino' oils. Older cars that have crud built up in the system can have that crud dissolved and brought into the oil system. Not the end of the world as long as you change your filter frequently while that happens.

The problem with leaks is that when crud builds up on the gaskets, it prevents oil from seeping in and they dry out. When you put in synthetic and it dissolves the gunk, the dry gaskets sometimes leak. If they're really bad, you may need to change them. Sometimes they'll swell back up and be fine. I switched to M1 in my v6 Jetta when it had ~ 30K miles and had no problems.

M1 is not the best synthetic, but is a significant step up from dino oils.

With any oil, but especially with synthetic, you can go much longer than the recommended 5K drain/fill interval as long as you regularily chaneg the filter (say every 5-7K) and top up with new oil. Synthetics resist breaking down much better than dino oil. As long as the filter is good and new (to take out the particulates), and you drive it long enough each time to get the water out of the oil, you should be ok.


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valleypoboy said:Jerryxu said:The deal ends on Saturday I believe.
A side note: The 0w30 is particularly hard to find. Autozone and advance auto don't even carry the 0w30. I spoke to a Mobil rep. The 0w30 is suppose to be good to replace all Xw30 oil and it saves gas. I have it in my car, it certainly feels more powerful (compare to the 10w30 dino oil).


WalMart is clearing out the older 5 qt bottles of Mobile 1 for about $18. They had lots left 2 weekends ago and there's no sales tag so you wouldn't know unless you price check.

The reason this thread is not getting the great ++s it deserves is because of all the lucky fools that got the kragen buy 3 get 3 free coupons in the calendars they sold at the beginning of the year.


I went to PepBoys 2 weeks ago and they still had the calendar. I bought one only. The coupon lasts a while I believe.


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icywind2002 said:Does it make sense to use synthetic oil on Civic and Accord? Especially when the car is already about 100k?
Thanks ahead for the advice...


Absolutely not. If you are going to swtich to a synthetic oil, be sure to do it early in the life of your engine. If you do it now the oil will just seep past all the rings/seals in your motor and you will just burn lots of oil. Also I hear you can free up a lot of the sludge in your engine which can cause further damage.


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electronspeeder said:Absolutely not. If you are going to swtich to a synthetic oil, be sure to do it early in the life of your engine. If you do it now the oil will just seep past all the rings/seals in your motor and you will just burn lots of oil. Also I hear you can free up a lot of the sludge in your engine which can cause further damage.

How early?
I have a 2002 Tahoe with only 5000 miles on it. I have heard conflicting stories on when to switch to a synthetic oil. Some say let it wear in more first. Others say you can switch it the day you buy it. I live in the north so I have the harsh winter conditions if it matters. Any advice? TIA


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electronspeeder said:

Absolutely not. If you are going to swtich to a synthetic oil, be sure to do it early in the life of your engine. If you do it now the oil will just seep past all the rings/seals in your motor and you will just burn lots of oil. Also I hear you can free up a lot of the sludge in your engine which can cause further damage.


Well, if the seals are leaking synthetic oil, they're leaking dino oil as well. Ok, maybe not when the engine is
cold, since that's when the synthetic will be less viscous than dino oil. But when the dino oil gets warm, you can
bet your a** that it'll be leaking through the same seals just as well.

But herein lies the whole jist of synthetic oil; it keeps its viscosity for a much greater temperature range.
And that's why it lubricates the engine the same way, 5 minutes from startup and 50 minutes from startup. And I
can't think of a reason why that would be bad.


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Frogleg said:electronspeeder said:Absolutely not. If you are going to swtich to a synthetic oil, be sure to do it early in the life of your engine. If you do it now the oil will just seep past all the rings/seals in your motor and you will just burn lots of oil. Also I hear you can free up a lot of the sludge in your engine which can cause further damage.

How early?
I have a 2002 Tahoe with only 5000 miles on it. I have heard conflicting stories on when to switch to a synthetic oil. Some say let it wear in more first. Others say you can switch it the day you buy it. I live in the north so I have the harsh winter conditions if it matters. Any advice? TIA


I've heard always wait until after the break in period. Others say wait until the second oil change or 5000k whichever comes last. I think given you are well past break in you will be fine. Don't listen to the people who say switch on Day One.

I don't know if they still do it, but Honda used to use a special "break in" oil and advised against changing the oil until the first recommended change. This was because of the popular "change it at 1k when new" rule that some people follow.


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Went to kmart - not a quart in stock.

Went to WalMart - price matched kmart.


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I have personally switched to mobil1 on a 180k mi civic si, as have several of my friends (yes, we are weird like that...buying similar cheapo cars and autocrossing them). We did a little preparation to clean the piston rings, (ATFing the cylinders--a neat trick, but know what you are doing before trying) but nothing that probably made that big of a difference. If you are really worried, buy some REALLY cheapo dino oil and only leave it in for 500 miles before the change over...this will make sludging less likely.

We have had no problems at all. Sludging is a problem when people do NOT change their oil frequently--and it is a problem on some very well-made modern engines.
While I am no oil chemist, I understand that the biggest advantages of synthetic over dinosaur juice is that it tolerates more extreme heat and cold before breaking down, as well as simply lasting longer before breaking down. In terms of chemistry (of which I am not an expert), synthetic is supposed to have a more uniform structure, and--because of this--lubricates better than dino. This uniformity also (supposedly) leads to less chemical interaction with contaminants (again, prolonging life).

As far as sludge, I cannot think of why an engine would sludge all of a sudden when switched over. If you burned oil beforehand, you will afterward as well.

Another problem (probably not with we cheap-walleters and our old cars) is "syntheticing" too early. Remember to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for breaking-in the engine in with some dinosaur juice before switching. A fresh-from-the-factory car may need dino for a good break-in.

Incindentally, I have used mobil 0 and 5 w 30 in my 1990 Civic. I actually like the 5w30 more because it makes my engine run a bit more solidly. 0 is probably marginally better for racing and efficiency, but my car vibrates enough as it is with 5!

Anyway, gotta go to Kmart...


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I think youre getting the wrong idea about the ratings... when it says synthetic, its completely synthetic unlike the synthetic blends, which i think is pure crap. Just think, 1% synthetic and 99% dino would mean its a blend, so unless u really wanna use it, make sure you know how much of each is in it.

ANd NO! dont mix regular oil w/ synthetic, youll get a bad result since the formula wouldnt mix well. Companies make their blends a special way before they sell it. If youre gonna try synthetic for the first time, ease the motor into it by buying BLENDS first for like 1 regular scheduled oil change and then switching over to pure synthetic from then on. Keep in mind it is not recommended to switch if youre over 50-60k, i forgot the #. As it will cause a high rate of sludge buildup in the valves. It is also not recommended to switch back and forth between dino and synthetic as these 2 DOES NOT mix well, which will lead to sludge.

But anyways bout the rating, 0w30 just mean its a less dense, making the car feel like its running lighter w/ less restricting, thats why you get better gas milage. While 15w30 would make it more dense, to offer more protection at the expense of gas milage. So with that in mind, you would actually wanna use 0w30 for daily driving cars vs the higher rating for performance cars.


Huh??

Mixing synthetic and dino oil will not cause problems. It just sort of defeats the purpose of synthetic oil if you add dino oil to it.

All brands of commercially available motor oil is compatible with other brands.

Mixing motor oils does not lead to sludge. Not changing motor oil leads to sludge. One of the reasons they do not recommend changing to synthetic on high mileage motors is that synthetic has a higher detergent content and could cause potential "sludge" to loosen in the engine and block oil passages. Some of the recommendations for high mileage engines is to use a motor flush prior to using synthetic.

The potential leakage around seals is caused by the smaller molecules of the synthetic oil. The clearances on the seals are "looser" on older engines and what the dino oil couldn't get through the synthetic will.


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all168 said:It looks like the price of mobil 1 is increasing, even it increase slower than dino oil, at least the price in costco or sams is increasing. I think I will stock up some motor oil for rainny day. But I need 5w-20 and it is very hard to find at this time.

Ford or Honda forcing you toward 5W-20?
If Ford, go with the 0W-20. The early 5.4 piston slap clatter goes away with the quicker flow at startup.
As for cost, yeah, Pepboys is up to $5.29 per quart. (ouch!) The only thing that helps is the calendar coupon.

I use 15W-50 Mobil1 to minimize oil burning in my 238K Subaru 3 cylinder. The seals are so far gone and the thick stuff doesn't leak by so easily. The poor thing needs put out of its misery, but the alternative is <15 MPG in my truck. (and that's not an alternative at $2.30 a gallon!)


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Jerryxu said:The deal ends on Saturday I believe.
A side note: The 0w30 is particularly hard to find. Autozone and advance auto don't even carry the 0w30. I spoke to a Mobil rep. The 0w30 is suppose to be good to replace all Xw30 oil and it saves gas. I have it in my car, it certainly feels more powerful (compare to the 10w30 dino oil).


Be careful with the wear of your piston rings, cylinders, you may shift boundary lubrication regime as well as curve to more solid solid contact regime.

do not use 0W30 as a substitute for 10W30 or 5W30, well you might fell more power but it will not last long!!!
usually I use 10W30 during summer and 5W30 during winter. (Mobil 1 is a real syntetic oil, it does not lower the friction but it is much more resistant to high temperatures, so it is like a safety fuse, and it is ok to use it for longer times when compared to mineral oils) (I personally use Mobil 1 all the time.)

A tribology scientist works primarly on transportation technologies from a National Lab.
Zero



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ZeroGravity said:Jerryxu said:The deal ends on Saturday I believe.
A side note: The 0w30 is particularly hard to find. Autozone and advance auto don't even carry the 0w30. I spoke to a Mobil rep. The 0w30 is suppose to be good to replace all Xw30 oil and it saves gas. I have it in my car, it certainly feels more powerful (compare to the 10w30 dino oil).


Be careful with the wear of your piston rings, cylinders, you may shift boundary lubrication regime as well as curve to more solid solid contact regime.

do not use 0W30 as a substitute for 10W30 or 5W30, well you might fell more power but it will not last long!!!
usually I use 10W30 during summer and 5W30 during winter. (Mobil 1 is a real syntetic oil, it does not lower the friction but it is much more resistant to high temperatures, so it is like a safety fuse, and it is ok to use it for longer times when compared to mineral oils) (I personally use Mobil 1 all the time.)

A tribology scientist works primarly on transportation technologies from a National Lab.
Zero


You may know your tribology, but your oil info is off.

I have an 01 Z06 which GM says to use 5w-30 or 10w-30 in. I have been using the Mobil 1 0w-40 as of late with no problems. At least one vette owner I know has used it for over one year.

About 90% of the info I see here is total BS. Please go to bobsoilsite.com and get some good info.

Also I got the 0w-40 at pepboys with the B3G3Free coupons. You need the sku# and order it from the parts counter, they will get it to you in a few days for pick up.


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All right I will not argue with you, because future discussion with you looks like a dead end ...
It is so ridiculus that you are judging my knowledge without any proof or evidence, it is not that easy buddy!!!
Ohhh BTW car manufacturers also have lack of knowledge right???? but you are driving the cars that they built. If you know that much built your own.
I don't wanna waste my time like you guys. Use your 0W30 as a substitude for 5 or 10W30 and have fun.
Zero


feeth said:ZeroGravity said:Jerryxu said:The deal ends on Saturday I believe.
A side note: The 0w30 is particularly hard to find. Autozone and advance auto don't even carry the 0w30. I spoke to a Mobil rep. The 0w30 is suppose to be good to replace all Xw30 oil and it saves gas. I have it in my car, it certainly feels more powerful (compare to the 10w30 dino oil).


Be careful with the wear of your piston rings, cylinders, you may shift boundary lubrication regime as well as curve to more solid solid contact regime.

do not use 0W30 as a substitute for 10W30 or 5W30, well you might fell more power but it will not last long!!!
usually I use 10W30 during summer and 5W30 during winter. (Mobil 1 is a real syntetic oil, it does not lower the friction but it is much more resistant to high temperatures, so it is like a safety fuse, and it is ok to use it for longer times when compared to mineral oils) (I personally use Mobil 1 all the time.)

A tribology scientist works primarly on transportation technologies from a National Lab.
Zero


You may know your tribology, but your oil info is off.

I have an 01 Z06 which GM says to use 5w-30 or 10w-30 in. I have been using the Mobil 1 0w-40 as of late with no problems. At least one vette owner I know has used it for over one year.

About 90% of the info I see here is total BS. Please go to bobsoilsite.com and get some good info.

Also I got the 0w-40 at pepboys with the B3G3Free coupons. You need the sku# and order it from the parts counter, they will get it to you in a few days for pick up.


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I second that, no 0W-40. Still a good deal for anyone who find the right one for their car.
XtremeDwayne said:sandybutt said:Where does the word 'dino' originate from ?
It comes from "dinosaur" oils. Dino oils are natural oils from the earth that have been refined, while syntethic oils are man-made.

Not many places carry the Mobil 1 0W-40 that I use. I don't think KMart had it the last time I checked.


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Heres is some reading for those interested in the matter.
This guy has completed testing Mobil 1 in his vehicle, he ran a Used Oil Analysis every 1,000 miles and posted results for everyone to see.
The results are very impressive.

It will be interesting to follow up on this over the next couple years to see how all the oils stack up against each other.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html


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OP here. Will share my 3 lectures learned on Mobil 1, 0w30.

Lession 1:

ME: Dialing mobil 1 tech line 1-800-662-4525 and enjoys the music while I wait (no).
Mobil Rep: How can I help you!
ME: I have a question. Actually many of my (FW) friends have similar concern: Can I use 0w30 for my subaru that recommends 5w30 and 10w30
Rep: Mobil 1 0W-30 is recommended for all types of modern vehicles, including high-performance turbo-charged, supercharged gasoline and diesel multi-valve fuel injected engines found in passenger cars, SUVs, light vans and trucks. It provides the superior low temperature protection of an 0W grade while providing the high temperature performance of an SAE 30.
ME: So can I use it in the summer as well?
Rep: YES
ME: I have experienced almost 10% saving in fuel, is this real?
Rep: That sounds great but high. Our study shows a 2-5% fuel saving by using the 0w30.
ME: So as a chemist (have to say something like that), what is the viscosity difference between the 0w and the 5w30?
Rep: 0w30: 40C is 56 cts, 100C is 10.3; Viscosity index 175 (higher better)
5w30: 40C is 56 cts, 100C is 10.0; Viscosity index is 167
Almost the same. Hum, It is intersting the tech data show that the 0w is better....
ME: "Talking to myself: So the 0w is not any thinner than the 5w at high temp (100C)."
I was looking for the 0w30 for a while, it is very hard to find.
Rep:I understand. There is a limited demand. Many people are use to the 5w30 and the 10w30. They don't want to risk try something that like a 0w. Remember the 0w was impossible to make with the regular oil so not many car manuals call for it. (JX: Actually some do, the Chey Prizm, Corolla does). So there is only limited demand. We can't force stores to stock and carry the 0w30.
ME:So where can I buy it.
Rep: Like Kmart.
ME: And...where else?
Rep: Like Kmart.
ME:???



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kinda OT
However any one may answer it would be great.

What the point to use 4x expensive Syn M1 oil where car maintence states that oil has to be replaced every 5k ml?
I understand that Syn M1 can easy run for 10k or even new one 15k.

But that might void car warranty when you change oil more then car maintence schedule states

Do I missing anything?

Thanks.


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mikek753 said:
What the point to use 4x expensive Syn M1 oil where car maintence states that oil has to be replaced every 5k ml?
I understand that Syn M1 can easy run for 10k or even new one 15k.
Thanks.


I use to have Sears and WalMart change my oil. Always used the regular oil. Always had to wait 1-2 hrs. Worse yet, WalMart drain my transmmision oil instead. I drove it a few miles to find out the hard way!!! What damage? I don't know.
On the other hand, I am kinda lazy. If I have to change oil 4-8 times a year (do good amount of driving), I wouldn't like it too much. With the M1 I change it myself only once or twice a year. With M1, the car is noticebly smoother.
In my conversation with M1 rep, I also asked the following questions:
1) Can one switch back to regular after switched to M1? Yes.
2) If I use the M1 extended performance for 15K, do I have to change filter half way? No, we studied 99% of the filters on the market, they will do fine. Just change the filter while you change the oil.
Of course, these are my answers. Basically time saving (lazy), plus car drives/feels nicer, particularly with 0w30 in my car!


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