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ECarlson
- Senior Member
posted: Jul. 27, 2007 @ 7:41p
alesmith56 said:If any one knows of a site that is closer to real time I would be all ears!That would be nice. I also added some of the RRSTalker feeds to my Google Reader as mentioned by efficacyman above. - Eric |
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stisev
- Ancient Member
posted: Jul. 28, 2007 @ 10:45a
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pumpt124
- Greedy Member
posted: Jul. 28, 2007 @ 11:43a
I snoozed, I loosed. Back up to $51. dang it. |
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frogster
- Senior Member - 1K
posted: Jul. 28, 2007 @ 11:47a
are there any similar chargers available at a decent price? |
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JustinR
- Member
posted: Jul. 28, 2007 @ 2:58p
I use this charger with Sanyon Eneloops in my Pentax K100D and my Wiimotes. They last as long as alkalines in the Wiimotes and much longer than alkalines in the Pentax. |
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Kajunmantx
- Member
posted: Aug. 13, 2007 @ 2:16p
Amazon down to $44.99 w/ free shipping today. I ordered one last week from Amazon thru Atomic Time and the price was $47.99 plus ship. Canceled that order since this unit is on b/o until firt week of Sept. |
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TakeTheActive
- Senior Member - 2K
posted: Aug. 13, 2007 @ 6:44p
greenlaser said:hungrydog said:howvintage said:FYI, this charger can charge batteries that are above .9v. Otherwise, they will read "Null." ... It happenned to me before but later on they added the picture how to revive the dead bat, I tried and it worked. If you have the old charger is good, if not, follow the pic. I would not say this is a good idea. There is nothing here to regulate the current (except the dead battery). Anyone that is using rechargeables, and interested in this product, already has an old charger. Use that to get started.
I guess the output of the charger is regulated, but are you sure you are not dumping the full current from the other battery into the dead one...I agree with greenlaser - DON'T DO IT!  To get an idea of the potential for damage, try this experiment: - Bend a large (2") paperclip into a 'U' slightly larger than the length of an AA NiMh cell (so that you can hold the paperclip in one hand and insert an AA NiMh cell in-between the ends of the 'U' without the cell actually TOUCHING the paperclip).
- Momentarily squeeze the paperclip so that it contacts both the '+' and '-' terminals of a fully-charged AA NiMh cell.
- With the full unregulated current of the AA NiMh cell flowing into the paperclip, it will IMMEDIATELY emulate a TOASTER element. You will be able to verify this with your fingers. If you don't let go quickly enough, you will burn yourself. If you wear gloves and hold on too long, the cell will overheat and possibly explode.
Be sure that the 'U' is LARGER than the length of the AA NiMh cell so that when you DROP IT, it will disconnect the short.
Nuff said? Use an old "dumb" charger - it only takes a few minutes to get a "base charge" into a 'dead' cell so that the BC-900 can 'see' it. |
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davefm
- New Member
posted: Aug. 13, 2007 @ 10:21p
It's down to $44.99 tonight, free Super Saver Shipping or Prime on Amazon.com. I e-mailed for price adjust since I just bought one at 49.99. Thanks! |
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kcobra
- Senior Member
posted: Aug. 13, 2007 @ 10:46p
TakeTheActive said:greenlaser said:hungrydog said:howvintage said:FYI, this charger can charge batteries that are above .9v. Otherwise, they will read "Null." ... It happenned to me before but later on they added the picture how to revive the dead bat, I tried and it worked. If you have the old charger is good, if not, follow the pic. I would not say this is a good idea. There is nothing here to regulate the current (except the dead battery). Anyone that is using rechargeables, and interested in this product, already has an old charger. Use that to get started.
I guess the output of the charger is regulated, but are you sure you are not dumping the full current from the other battery into the dead one...I agree with greenlaser - DON'T DO IT! 
To get an idea of the potential for damage, try this experiment:- Bend a large (2") paperclip into a 'U' slightly larger than the length of an AA NiMh cell (so that you can hold the paperclip in one hand and insert an AA NiMh cell in-between the ends of the 'U' without the cell actually TOUCHING the paperclip).
- Momentarily squeeze the paperclip so that it contacts both the '+' and '-' terminals of a fully-charged AA NiMh cell.
- With the full unregulated current of the AA NiMh cell flowing into the paperclip, it will IMMEDIATELY emulate a TOASTER element. You will be able to verify this with your fingers. If you don't let go quickly enough, you will burn yourself. If you wear gloves and hold on too long, the cell will overheat and possibly explode.
Be sure that the 'U' is LARGER than the length of the AA NiMh cell so that when you DROP IT, it will disconnect the short.
Nuff said? Use an old "dumb" charger - it only takes a few minutes to get a "base charge" into a 'dead' cell so that the BC-900 can 'see' it. I don't think your analogy is correct. You are describing dead shorting a cell. From the pic on Amazon, the guy is just putting the two cells in parallel. Sucks that for a high end charger that is advertised at reviving dead cells, that we even have to do this at all. Also, another negative for this charger is that it does not have a discharge mode. The "discharge" mode is actually a cycle mode. There is no way to just tell it to discharge the batteries. |
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RegUSPatOff
- Happy Member
posted: Aug. 14, 2007 @ 8:31a
kcobra said: I don't think your analogy is correct. You are describing dead shorting a cell. From the pic on Amazon, the guy is just putting the two cells in parallel.
Sucks that for a high end charger that is advertised at reviving dead cells, that we even have to do this at all. Also, another negative for this charger is that it does not have a discharge mode. The "discharge" mode is actually a cycle mode. There is no way to just tell it to discharge the batteries. 1) what if the "dead cell" is actually a short(ed) battery ? 2) where does it say it revives dead cells ? 3)why would you want to "only discharge" a battery ? |
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Kajunmantx
- Member
posted: Aug. 14, 2007 @ 8:57a
$51.93 at Amazon now with free super saver shipping. Looks like still b/o for 2 weeks. |
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gatsu
- Senior Member
posted: Aug. 17, 2007 @ 6:07p
Back to $45 with free ship and in stock. |
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zaky101
- Member
posted: Aug. 17, 2007 @ 6:13p
Its on sale again for $44.99 with free super saver shipping. |
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atwnsw
- Senior Member - 1K
posted: Aug. 17, 2007 @ 6:41p
Is there a deal for the charger only without the batteries? |
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g10ny
- Graceful Member
posted: Aug. 17, 2007 @ 6:55p
10 of 11 people found the following review helpful: Be wary of drastic price fluctuations, May 27, 2007 By F. Thomas - See all my reviews I''m just writing this for everyone's benefit. I have not purchased one of these yet because of the drastic changes in price. I don't know whether it has to do with the supply/demand, seasons or what. Nevertheless, the price of this item is ridiculously volatile. Have I seen this happen much worse for other items, sure, but hey everyone including myself wants to get a good deal. It takes time out of your life requesting the difference from Amazon, and hey, time is money. Here's a pricing timeline.
Starting price: 34.99 12/23/06 39.99 1/12/07 34.99 1/14/07 39.99 1/15/07 36.99 1/16/07 39.99 (3:51am) 1/16/07 36.99 (9:52am) 1/17/07 39.99 5/10/07 37.19 5/27/07 47.95 5/27/07 49.99 (As I speak)
Hope this helps. |
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macosx
- Senior Member
posted: Aug. 17, 2007 @ 7:05p
RegUSPatOff said:kcobra said: I don't think your analogy is correct. You are describing dead shorting a cell. From the pic on Amazon, the guy is just putting the two cells in parallel.
Sucks that for a high end charger that is advertised at reviving dead cells, that we even have to do this at all. Also, another negative for this charger is that it does not have a discharge mode. The "discharge" mode is actually a cycle mode. There is no way to just tell it to discharge the batteries. 1) what if the "dead cell" is actually a short(ed) battery ? 2) where does it say it revives dead cells ? 3)why would you want to "only discharge" a battery ? I've been able to charge "dead" batteries, but they aren't really fully revived, and mostly underperform. The charger is good overall, but some low performing batteries still get good numbers. Then when you actually use the battery, it doesn't last very long or if it's stored a few days, it quickly self-drains. I've yet to find a good method of identifying bad cells that should pretty much be disposed. A load test or measuring internal resistance might or might not work. I've left the cells sit for 24 hours and charge again, and poor performing batteries often can be charged a lot again (1000mAh), while good batteries generally top off after about 200mAh. [I do get significant variability depending on which compartment is used.] Battery Testing |
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s002cjs
- Cranky Member
posted: Aug. 18, 2007 @ 9:55a
macosx said:I've been able to charge "dead" batteries, but they aren't really fully revived, and mostly underperform. The charger is good overall, but some low performing batteries still get good numbers. Then when you actually use the battery, it doesn't last very long or if it's stored a few days, it quickly self-drains. I've yet to find a good method of identifying bad cells that should pretty much be disposed. A load test or measuring internal resistance might or might not work. I've left the cells sit for 24 hours and charge again, and poor performing batteries often can be charged a lot again (1000mAh), while good batteries generally top off after about 200mAh. [I do get significant variability depending on which compartment is used.]
Have you tried the 'refresh' mode? It takes a long time, but has done a nice job of renewing batteries like you're describing. |
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macosx
- Senior Member
posted: Aug. 18, 2007 @ 10:37a
s002cjs said:macosx said:I've been able to charge "dead" batteries, but they aren't really fully revived, and mostly underperform. The charger is good overall, but some low performing batteries still get good numbers. Then when you actually use the battery, it doesn't last very long or if it's stored a few days, it quickly self-drains. I've yet to find a good method of identifying bad cells that should pretty much be disposed. A load test or measuring internal resistance might or might not work. I've left the cells sit for 24 hours and charge again, and poor performing batteries often can be charged a lot again (1000mAh), while good batteries generally top off after about 200mAh. [I do get significant variability depending on which compartment is used.]
Have you tried the 'refresh' mode? It takes a long time, but has done a nice job of renewing batteries like you're describing. Yes, it does "renew" the battery, but doesn't make it new, just slightly or somewhat usable. It does a great job with some batteries, but bad or "dead" batteries will also get good numbers after a renew. It's only when you use them that you discover they don't have power capacity, voltage drops quickly, current is limited, or self-drains quickly even without usage. At best some of these brought to life batteries can be used in low drain devices immediately after being charged. It's a great charger, and I highly recommend it. However, it needs a better way to tell dead batteries and real capacity. Anyone know of a simple/cheap/reliable way to test internal resistance or doing a load test? |
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aybe
- Member
posted: Aug. 18, 2007 @ 11:28a
Best charger I have ever used. I had a few batteries that were almost "dead/unusable" and with this charger I was able to revive them. |
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ECarlson
- Senior Member
posted: Aug. 18, 2007 @ 1:24p
macosx said:Anyone know of a simple/cheap/reliable way to test internal resistance or doing a load test?I think you should at least be able to determine the instantaneous internal resistance (though internal resistance isn't constant throughout the discharge cycle) by doing a simple series resistance calculation. Measure the open circuit voltage, briefly apply a load (perhaps 10 ohms), and measure the loaded voltage. The voltage drop should be from the internal resistance, and the calculations should be simple from there. I'm sure there are many ways to go about the calculation, but off the top of my head, I would say to figure out the current through the 10 ohm load: I = V/R (current in amps = volts under load/resistance of load in ohms), then once you know I (current), you can calculate the internal resistance: R = V/I, where V is the change in voltage from no load to load, and I is the current you just calculated. So, using a hypothetical battery, let's say the no load voltage was 1.25 volts, and the load voltage at 10 ohms was 1 volt, that makes the voltage drop 0.25 volts. The load current is then: 1 volt/10 ohms = 0.1 amps. So the internal resistance is then: 0.25 volts/0.1 amps = 2.5 ohms. (This would be a pretty bad battery.) You might need to use a lower resistance load on good batteries to get a reasonably measurable voltage drop going inside the battery, like perhaps 2 ohms, which would draw >0.5 amps form a good battery. - Eric |
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