most states don't require property tax.

mikoo said:zenmaster123 said:I got the civic lx 2008 this March for 18250(out to door price). I dont know if i got a good deal
I am in Bridgewater, NJ.
Just posting, so that you guys could bargain even more !!!

I got 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid in June for $20500-$1000 tax rebate I will get in 2009=$19500. I didn't get the GPS etc.

we bought our civic hybrid last october for about $18,600 (after tax rebate). great car for daily driving. averaging 40.8MPG over the past year (and i rarely stick to the speed limit )

MISURICK said:camninja said:google this...Honda settlement. Honda quality is not as good as you believe to be. Plus Honda is very sneaky; they will not recall their defective products.

where do you get your info?!

I'll throw in my 2 cents on my own personal experience.... I just had to replace the transmission on my 7 year old civic (bought it brand new and didn't abuse it) ... odometer just barely turned 100k. Upon doing research, it's apparently not an uncommon problem for early 2000s civics (2001-2003). In my opinion, WAY to early for a transmission to go.

Again, this is just my personal experience and research regarding similar issues via the internet (for as much credence as you give that).

I tried to argue the issue with Honda corporate (as did many other people who posted on the internet) to no avail. The dealer did admit he knew it was an issue that pops up, but that Honda won't cover it (and they didn't).

Celeritas said:civ2k1 said:MISURICK said:camninja said:google this...Honda settlement. Honda quality is not as good as you believe to be. Plus Honda is very sneaky; they will not recall their defective products.

where do you get your info?!

I'll throw in my 2 cents on my own personal experience.... I just had to replace the transmission on my 7 year old civic (bought it brand new and didn't abuse it) ... odometer just barely turned 100k. Upon doing research, it's apparently not an uncommon problem for early 2000s civics (2001-2003). In my opinion, WAY to early for a transmission to go.

Again, this is just my personal experience and research regarding similar issues via the internet (for as much credence as you give that).

I tried to argue the issue with Honda corporate (as did many other people who posted on the internet) to no avail. The dealer did admit he knew it was an issue that pops up, but that Honda won't cover it (and they didn't).

I had a 2001 Honda Accord bought it brand new, and back in 2004 i had to get the transmission changed because there was a recall on all transmissions from 2000-2003 Honda Accords and Civics.

My Civic was a 2001 .... the recall was on specific VIN ranges only (mine did not fall into that range). Honda did not find it in their hearts to cover my issue even though the symptoms and diagnosis was the same as the recall issue, my VIN did not fall in the range of recalled vehicles. Thanks, Honda!

Of course, this is not to say I don't think that "generally" Honda makes a good vehicle. In my circumstance, I got stuck with a dud and Honda refuses to own up to it.

For the person who recommended the Elantra, I agree with you if you are leasing the vehicle and get a really good deal. The Elantra (and all of Hyundai's recent products) are dramatically improved. However, Hyundai's residuals are still significantly lower than that of its competitors (Toyota/Honda/Nissan/etc), so I would avoid buying a Hyundai if you plan on selling it in the future - or else you will be shocked when you go to sell it and find that it is worth significantly less than you expect.

Don't be afaid to call bull$**t on a markups from the dealer. When I bought my Honda Fit, I called them on the non-existent rear mud flaps they were charging for and the "optional remote entry" (it's standard on Sport models). Either way, the best negotiation tactic is to walk away. And +2 on the shop at the end of the month tactic someone already mentioned.

I am convinced that "Mr. Opportunity" is subliminal for "Missed Your Opportunity"

call my dealership, they said there is a market adjustment on the Civic Si... which factors in about a $1,500 over MSRP. They no nothing about $500 under invoice

Light green for OP for decent deal.

Ditto on the scam for paint protection. Dealers have resorted to making their own look alike stickers for dealer add-ons, and placing them right next to the real MSRP sticker. They look real. Sometimes they are even the same color and look as the official MSRP sticker. They are 100% bovine scatterings.

DON’T BELIEVE THEM. 600 bucks for “Simonizing”. LOL during an oil change I am walking around, take a wrong turn and look into a shed. There are 2 Mexicans with Popeye mops, dunking them in 55 gallon drums of some liquid, slopping it onto the car. There was the $600 “Simonizing”

http://www.walkthelot.com/desklot/Stickers.asp Sticker DL505 is an example.

"Market adjustment" is PURE BS.

Being a life-long fan of Honda, I think their cars are great. They do have weaknesses in terms of problematic transmissions, undersized brakes, and weak styling, but are outstanding in terms of reliable/peppy engine, suspension, and ergonomics, comared to other cars in their respective classes. They sort of lost their way for a while during the 90's and first half of this decade, but they are sort of in a revival phase with some good products on the market.

With regards to invoice - it is very useful as a reference number so that people can compare deals across different models with different options. Imagine someone says "Hey, I got OTD on a Civic EX with Navi for $xxxxx!", and another person says "Yo! I got OTD on a Civic EX without Navi for $yyyyy!". Now given that the first car probably cost more than the second car, how do you get a gut feeling for how good the deals are relative to each other? Even though the invoice price might be on the surface as "meaningless" as the MSPR, it still gives you a reasonably accurate gauge of the relative underlying cost of the two cars. You would expect similar trim model cars with different options to come in at a similar percentage relative to the invoice price. So lets not poo-poo the invoice price just because you happen to be able to buy cars for less than invoice.

All of the talk about addons, accessories, paint protectors - come on people, none of this is earth shattering news, no need to be so smug about it. The only costs you need to take into consideration are the numbers on the factory sticker, and mandatory government taxes and fees. Everything else can be completely removed from the calculations. Some dealers put up their own additional sticker next to the factory sticker in the window - pay attention only to the factory sticker.

With regards to price - avoid silly low-ball-offer formulas you find on the net. Using the formula on a low demand car will make you pay more than you have to, and doing the same on a high demand car will be a waste of you and the dealers' time. Always set a target price that reflects current market conditions - research what similar cars have been selling for to get an idea of what types of deals are possible. Asking $2000 below invoice on cars that you've never seen sold for less than $500 below is a waste of time, unless there is something seriously wrong with the one you are negotiating on.