Fatwallet.com Finance Our Mission - Serve consumers with knowledge, value and guidance. http://www.fatwallet.comhttp://www.fatwallet.com/rss_tv.php?c=52FatWallet.comhttp://www.fatwallet.com <![CDATA[Auto loan]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440513/ Rating: 0 Posted By: Enilder
Views: 146 Replies: 6

I am looking to get an auto-loan at the lowest possible rate for 4 to 6 years. I currently have 0 debt with sub-700 credit score. It seems like rates have gone up since last quarter, and this appears to be the lowest rate I can find (https://www.dcu.org/loans/auto-choices.html).Any suggestions?

Thanks!


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440513/ Sun, 03 May 2015 13:38:42 -0500
<![CDATA[Expensive (luxury) car long-term ownership cost?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440491/ Rating: 0 Posted By: SinbadS
Views: 394 Replies: 20

If a low-wage-earner (with non-existent financial skills) is gifted a very expensive (luxury) car (~$40K), what should she do with it if she already has a troublesome second car? If she keeps it (and having 2 cars because she is attached to the old car), would it be more damaging financially than having not been gifted the expensive car in the first place (by taking into account the long-term ownership cost of both cars specially the new one)?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440491/ Sun, 03 May 2015 09:59:51 -0500
<![CDATA[American Express Travel Ins changes refund]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440425/ Rating: 0 Posted By: Dilbertic
Views: 569 Replies: 0

American express sent me snail mail stating they may have over changed me travel Ins on my current or old AMX cards. The explain that if you used your card and cancelled a flight, or bought a seat upgrade and so on you might have been charged the Ins prem.

check at: linky
https://americanexpress.com/RequestMyRefund

I found a seat upgrade for 50.00 with Alaska Air they charged me 8.99 for so claimed that

GL

Dil


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440425/ Sat, 02 May 2015 17:54:17 -0500
<![CDATA[Emergency funds in stock/bonds -- betterment.com]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440406/ Rating: 0 Posted By: ppsninja
Views: 677 Replies: 8

Here's an article by Betterment.com that suggests that you put more than you normally would in your emergency fund, but then put it in 60/40 stock bonds to ride out any bad times,etc so that the fund will high probability to not go below your required minimum. Ie if your emergency fund needs to be $100k, put $130k into the fund, so it can drop by 30% in bad times in case you need the money. But overall you will get a much higher rate of return than just emergency cash in the bank.

Thoughts? I've had $$ in my emergency fund and not used it, and with inflation I'm negative for sure.

https://www.betterment.com/resources/personal-finance/safety-net-funds-why-traditional-advice-is-wrong/


Safety Net Funds: Why Traditional Advice Is Wrong
KEY TAKEAWAYSDont keep your safety net fund in cash savings accounts. Odds are youll lose money due to inflation, and lose out on potential growth of your savinhttps://www.betterment.com/resources/personal-finance/safety-net-funds-why-traditional-advice-is-wrong/gs.A smarter way is to invest 130 percent of your safety net in a moderate-risk portfolio. This ensures you keep your safety net fund available -- and growing.
Conventional wisdom says that safety net funds should be held in a savings account or similarly risk-free asset. But is this really the wisest way to manage your rainy day fund? Our analysis finds that you can do far better by investing your safety net fund in a diversified portfolio.

First, lets get one myth out of the way: Cash savings accounts are not risk free. Why? Because after accounting for inflation there is about a one in three chance you wont get back the money you put in, in real terms.

Today, with nominal cash interest rates hovering far beneath 1 percent, its almost guaranteed that youll make a negative real return over the next few years. This means your safety net fund will need topping up year after year to maintain its real value. It also means that youll have a significant amount of wealth that is not growing, potentially for a long period of time.

Intelligent investing is safe, even for your safety money
The better solution is to have a safety net fund and grow it too. For those with a fully funded safety net fund, we recommend investing in a moderate risk portfolio with allocation set between 30 percent and 50 percent stocks. Betterments default advice for a safety net goal suggests a 40 percent allocation.

While this flies in the face of traditional advice, our analysis below shows that it stands up to critical examination.

Lets work through an example to explain our advice. First, everyone should consider having some kind of safety net fund based on his or her monthly expenditures. (Read our blog post about how to calculate your own safety net Target amount.) If you have not fully funded your safety net yet, we recommend saving regularly to get there.

For a worker earning around $110,000 in annual salary, a safety net Target might be $18,000 (assuming minimum expenses of $4,500 per month for four months). This saver has two options: put this money into a savings account or invest it. We think investing is the smarter choice. However, to be smart investors we want to also protect ourselves against potential losses. This is why we recommend adding a buffer of 30 percent to your original Target amount. For example, to maintain a $18,000 safety net we recommend starting with $23,377.

On the chart below weve plotted the actual returns for every five-year period since 1955 for a $23,377 safety net fund with a 40 percent stock allocation. As you can see, the returns like those of any investment can vary on both the upside and downside. However, over any five-year period it is rare to find the value of the safety net fund dip below $18,000. On the other hand, for the saver who keeps a safety net in cash, inflation is likely to chip away at that amount in real terms.

Value of Safety Net Fund Since Original Investment

Monthly safety net fund account value over every five-year period since Jan 1, 1955

safety-net-historical-5-year-runs-01

SOURCES: Betterment analysis of S&P500: Yahoo Finance; Federal Reserve Economic Database; Bureau of Labor Statistics

Reinvesting gains in your safety net fund
The benefit of investing a slightly larger amount than you need is the opportunity to earn returns. If the original investment of $23,377 grows at around 5 percent per year (an approximate long-term annual return for a Betterment account with a 40 percent stock allocation), it will be getting bigger than necessary on a regular basis. This is a good problem to have.

To prevent your safety net from getting too big, we advise transferring the excess to another goal in order to bring it back down to the correct level every time it gets to be 20 percent bigger than it needs to be. That excess growth not only makes up for the original buffer you invested, but it can now be transferred to help along other goals like IRAs, retirement, or a vacation around the world.

In fact, the best scenario is that you will never need your safety net fund at all. Even the poorest returns on investing will still handily beat cash over 50 years. In other words, cash is a very poor long-term investing or safety net fund strategy.

We do not have a crystal ball and do not know exactly what markets will do in the future. But what we can see in recent history is that the downside of taking some risk is not terrible but the upside is very powerful.

Increasing your Target amount by 30 percent will allow the investment to absorb a 23 percent decline while preserving the Target amount. We are using 23 percent because it represents the greatest peak-to-trough percentage drop a Betterment 40 percent stock portfolio would have experienced since 2004 (the drop took place between July 2008 and March 2009). Prior to 2004, insufficient data is available to test the Betterment portfolios performance with confidence. However, to demonstrate a longer historical view, the graph above uses performance of a portfolio consisting of 40 percent S&P500/60 percent 5-year Treasury Bills, going back to 1955. There is no guarantee that a future drop would not be steeper, but we feel it is useful to demonstrate the impact of historically exceptional volatility on a buffered safety net fund. Please see our full disclosure of our methodology for model historical returns.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440406/ Sat, 02 May 2015 15:43:09 -0500
<![CDATA[Paying back depreciation after selling of rental property]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440395/ Rating: 0 Posted By: DenverDiver
Views: 681 Replies: 5

So sounds like depreciation recapture is 25%

Take these numbers and let me know if my math is right

Purchased condo 2002 = $100K
Moved out in 2006 and started renting it. Depreciation is around $2500/year
Condo has significantly gone down in value in past 9 years.
Supposedly if we sell in 2016 for $75K and our loan is around the same. Let's say after all fees, etc we net negative $3000 after selling of the rental property.

Is it true we wouldn't incur any capital gains or depreciation recapture since we had a net loss at sale?

And what if we profited $3000 at closing. Would we only be taxed (15% off capital gains, 25% off depreciation) off of the $3000

Thanks


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440395/ Sat, 02 May 2015 12:02:12 -0500
<![CDATA[Why does Citi Sears MC refuse to report my card?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440386/ Rating: 0 Posted By: RisingSun361
Views: 701 Replies: 7

I noticed my Sears/Citi MasterCard wasn't showing up on my credit reports. I requested that they report my card. They sent me a letter stating they're not required by law to report my card, and they're not going to do so. Why would they refuse?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440386/ Sat, 02 May 2015 11:04:57 -0500
<![CDATA[Navy Federal Credit Union (NFCU) Military Appreciation Month]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440369/ Rating: 0 Posted By: redsox9547
Views: 637 Replies: 12

LinkFor eligible members...

Just click to see them.

GET A 3.50% APY MILITARY APPRECIATION CERTIFICATE.=10px3
Open a 15-month Military
Appreciation Certificate with a $50 minimum balance and a $7,500 maximum balance to start growing your savings.3

GET $50 WITH ACTIVE DUTY CHECKING=10px.
Open an Active Duty Checking account with a qualifying
Military Direct Deposit and get $50.2

GET $300 FOR AUTO
REFINANCES.
Refinance your loan from another lender with Navy Federal and get $300!=10px4Active Duty and retired
military members save an additional 1/4% APR.
Apply at a branch or call 1.888.842.6328.

GET 2X THE CREDIT CARD REWARDS.
Shop at commissaries or exchanges during the month of May and get double the Cash Back or double the points when you use your
Navy Federal rewards credit card.=10px6Don't have a card?APPLY NOW





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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440369/ Sat, 02 May 2015 08:55:51 -0500
<![CDATA[Stock Market]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440364/ Rating: -3 Posted By: jamierobsson
Views: 597 Replies: 8

Are you in it ? What's there to invest in nowadays ?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440364/ Sat, 02 May 2015 06:24:13 -0500
<![CDATA[Car dealership cheated me thousands of dollars (emergency help)]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440363/ Rating: -8 Posted By: alexatie
Views: 1852 Replies: 76

Was late at a dealership. Wife and daughter was looking at a Mazda for $29,000. This all happened yesterday.
When signing the paper, the salesperson made it look like $29,000. However, upon coming home, we just realized the amount shows as $39,000.

We didn't sign up for a $39,000 car. It was all in the moment, the dealership was closing, and we were rushing in the paperwork.
We live less than 2 miles away from the dealership. The car has less than 2 miles on it.

I am looking to get my money back. Any advice would be great.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440363/ Sat, 02 May 2015 06:19:46 -0500
<![CDATA[plz help: how can i access to my bank account]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440346/ Rating: -8 Posted By: rocketadmin
Views: 1023 Replies: 30

Everytime ,I want to access my bank account,WARNING: its said,I must add my SS# to my bank account (join account with my mom for 20 years), and my mom pass away,five years ago,and i only accsess it only one time in the last 20 years , but i was in very bad relationship with with my ex(Who wanted to access to my money so bad)So For the last 5 years,I have to apply for medicaid for my 2 kids plus food stump. (I never mention the bank account in the medicaid application ),Because i support my ex and the kids. So ,now after the divorce, i try to access the money in the bank,or cancel the medicaid , and i couldnt Please help, thanks very kindly


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440346/ Sat, 02 May 2015 01:28:42 -0500
<![CDATA[Medallion Guarantee Stamp]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440340/ Rating: 1 Posted By: runningair
Views: 1665 Replies: 32

Anyone have experience obtaining a Medallion Guarantee Stamp to transfer stock/IRA's you inherited from a relative?

Today, I was told by a couple brokers that whichever bank/credit union I use for the stamp will want copies of the trust, will, and death certificate to review and keep for their records. I guess this is done on the spot by a bank employee without much legal experience?

Asked our probate attorney for advice, and he said, yeah, just don't volunteer any extraneous information when you go there, try to distract them in conversation, and supply only the minimal amount of documentation they ask for. Otherwise, they might get scared by something they don't understand and deny the Medallion Stamp.

Would you agree with this advice?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440340/ Fri, 01 May 2015 22:14:31 -0500
<![CDATA[You just sold your house and have $150k in cash - what do you do with it for 6/12 months while you find/build a new home]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440330/ Rating: 0 Posted By: Myers215
Views: 1150 Replies: 19

The title says it all. I'm selling my current house which will leave me with $150k or so in cash which I will ultimately roll into a new home. I'm still deciding whether I'll build or buy but either way I'm going to have this cash sitting around for several months while we make our decision. I have no debt, a free place to stay while we're between houses and will need the money fairly liquid (convertible to cash in 30-45 days I'd guess?). I was wondering what others have done in this situation as the best I can come up with is to put it in my Ally account @ 1.00%.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440330/ Fri, 01 May 2015 20:25:17 -0500
<![CDATA[Fraudulent contract and credit inquiry]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440324/ Rating: 0 Posted By: jscout
Views: 666 Replies: 7

First time poster here. Hope I provide enough background information, let me know if you need more.

I have an investment property that I rent out to a family. They decided to have an alarm/security system installed, without my knowledge/approval
The dealer performed the install and hooked them up with a monitoring company.
Apparently the dealer decided to put the contract under my name and pulled my credit (soft pull), all without my knowledge. I am surprised how they can do a credit inquiry without having my social security. He, the dealer/installer, actually forged my signature under the contract.
I found out that this happened due to the fact that my credit monitoring company called me about a credit inquiry. I didn't now the company that had pulled my credit info so I investigated further

I would like to have your advice/input on the following:
- I am fighting the credit inquiry as fraudulent activity with TransUnion.. Is this the right approach?
- Should I file a complaint against the monitoring company and alarm installer for doing a credit inquiry without my approval and knowledge? if Yes who should I file it with the BBB or authorities?
- Should I file a complaint or a lawsuit against the installer for fraudulently executing a contract in my name?
- Lastly are there any standard penalties/fines imposed to the dealer or monitoring companies which will help compensate me, in case I file a lawsuit?

Thank you for taking the time to read my message and any input you can give me.







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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440324/ Fri, 01 May 2015 20:08:19 -0500
<![CDATA[Citizens Bank - Open your first new One Deposit Checking account, meet the offer requirements, and get paid $150.]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440302/ Rating: -3 Posted By: coupanman
Views: 838 Replies: 3

https://www.citizensbank.com/promotions/checking-offer/welcome.h... is how it works:

  1. Register online by completing all the fields and submitting the form to the right
  2. Open your first new One Deposit Checking account or other first new personal checking account within 30 days of the coupon download
  3. Make an additional deposit (excluding the opening deposit) OR five qualifying debit card payments or purchases within 45 days of opening your new checking account
  4. Get $150

You must open your new checking account within 30 days of the coupon download. Specific dates will be provided in your email confirmation. Primary signer on the new checking account may not be or have been a primary or secondary signer on any personal checking account within the previous six months. Offer may be withdrawn without notice and cannot be combined with any other checking offer. Offer only available to the person who receives this email, and the new account must be open and in good standing to qualify for this offer.To earn the $150 bonus, in addition to making an opening deposit (minimum account opening balance varies), make any additional deposit to your new checking account within 45 days of opening OR make a minimum of 5 debit card payments or purchases that post and clear your new checking account within 45 days of opening. Qualified debit card payments and purchases include signature and PIN based debit transactions through a third party web site and in person directly at a merchant. Online Bill Payments and ATM transactions do not qualify.Bonus will be deposited to your qualifying checking account within 145 days of opening your new checking account and will be labeled as Balance Builder Bonus. One bonus per customer. Bonus will be reported to the IRS.Variable-rate Annual Percentage Yield (APY) for Checking with Interest varies by account and tier. For example, as of 2/18/15, APY by tier for Personal Checking with Interest is: 0.01% for $25+, $2,500+, $10,000+, $25,000+, $50,000+, $75,000+. Minimum opening balance for Personal Checking with Interest is $50. Fees may reduce earnings.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440302/ Fri, 01 May 2015 16:44:33 -0500
<![CDATA[Investing Emergency Fund?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440301/ Rating: 0 Posted By: theman15
Views: 765 Replies: 13

Hi all,

I am very new to investing and currently only have a company sponsored 401(k) with Fidelity. Before I ramped up my contributions to said 401(k), I created an emergency fund of $2.5k that should last me a few months if anything comes up (I am in a low COL area and really don't need much, so I figured $2.5k was sufficient). This is where my question comes in. For the last year, my $2.5k has sat in my bank savings account earning me exactly $1. I realize I am not going to get rich investing this savings, but would like to at least keep up with inflation (and learn along the way). Is a money market mutual fund the way to go? Fidelity would be the most convenient, although I am open to Vanguard as well.

I am looking to accomplish a few things:
1.) Keep this fund liquid (7-30 days) for emergencies
2.) At least keep up with inflation, though I am open to slightly higher risk options since I am by no means living paycheck to paycheck with this fund being my end-all lifeboat
3.) As low ofER as possible and no or very little fees for transferring back to cash if there would be an emergency

Any specific recommendations/funds? How would I go about doing this? Also, I have read some of these would be taxable versus non-taxable. My taxable amount would be next to nothing, but anything specific I should know about the differences? Thanks all.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440301/ Fri, 01 May 2015 16:39:09 -0500
<![CDATA[Need help with financial implications of moving and living in two states]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440292/ Rating: 0 Posted By: sunspotzsz
Views: 494 Replies: 2

Hi,

DW and I currently live in NC. Over next two month, she will move to CA and I will move to MN, both starting a new job. Not an ideal situation, but she really likes the new job. This move also complicates the financial situation and I want to do it FW way.

In terms of the income taxes, she can choose the starting date. I am wondering if it makes a difference to start after June 1 so that we lived in NC longer since NC has lower state income tax.

Also, I need to get a new car since my car is RWD and won't handle the snow in MN. I will probably be buying a car from a friend who is moving out of the country. I am wondering if there is opportunity to save on taxes. Car sales tax is 3% in NC and 6.75% in MN. Should I first register the car in NC and then re-register in MN a year later? Another problem is that my assignment in MN is 19 month and I am not sure where I am going afterwards.

Insurance is a problem too. We have auto and home insurance with Erie now. We are selling our house in NC and we will both be renting. I am wondering if renter's insurance is necessary and if we can have one auto-policy if we live in two different states.

Financially, are there other things we should think about?

thanks a lot!


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440292/ Fri, 01 May 2015 14:44:10 -0500
<![CDATA[Can my employer force me to pay back money for tuition vouchers (not cash) they say "no cash value"?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440263/ Rating: 0 Posted By: ceciltaylor
Views: 1127 Replies: 16

I recently put in my 2 week notice, and my employer is trying to force me to pay them back for tuition benefits that I received. However, my employer did not pay cash for my tuition. My employer was given tuition vouchers from a local university. These vouchers say right on them "no cash value". They also did not purchase these vouchers, they were donated. Can they force me to pay back cash based on the rate that I saved while using the vouchers? I cannot see how, but I am having trouble finding exact laws.

My other question is can they forcefully withhold money from my paycheck in order to make me pay them back?

Finally, I gave my 2 week notice, but if things get messy I may leave beforehand. If the research I have done is correct, they must pay all of my earned vacation upon separation of employment, and if they do not, I can sue for double damages. That is the last thing I want to happen, but I need to be prepared for the worse case scenario.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440263/ Fri, 01 May 2015 10:50:41 -0500
<![CDATA[Baltimore Riots for Fun and Profit?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440260/ Rating: -2 Posted By: sublimebri
Views: 1376 Replies: 19

As a Baltimore resident, I thought it at least worth posing the question to the FW community about how to view the Baltimore riots as a potential profit opportunity... and no I don't mean by looting or other nefarious acts. I guess I was looking at the broader financial picture and seeing if there was a play to be made. For instance, T Rowe Price and Exelon have had both of their main Baltimore offices shut down since Tuesday. In addition, any thoughts on shorting a Maryland Muni Bond fund (MDXBX)? I know these are potential reaches but curious to see if we learned anything from local uprisings like Ferguson and how that could impact a larger economic center like Baltimore.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440260/ Fri, 01 May 2015 10:23:59 -0500
<![CDATA[How do I choose which is best for me?: High APR/Low(no) Annual Fee vs. Lower APR/Higher Annual Fee?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440249/ Rating: 0 Posted By: QualityToast
Views: 479 Replies: 8

(((Okay so I haven't had a credit card before and I didn't quite realize that occasionally paying things late made more of a difference than a late fine on your account. OKAY OKAY I KNOW NOW, so skip the embarrassing comments. No one is perfect and this is the one thing in my life that I feel behind in. I grew up with very little in the way of financial role models or instruction, but I am finally taking the initiative to become more financially solid. Thanks for reading a contributing to my post. I hope it helps a lot of people!)))

Back to topic: I was perusing Credit Cards dot com website and they listed a bunch of cards that would work for someone with a FICO score of Fair credit. I notice that cards with higher APR's will have lower or no annual fees. Cards with annual fees tend to have lower APR's.
QUESTION: How do I figure what is better for me between these two general options:
1:higher APR + lower annual fee OR
2: lower APR + higher annual fee

Bonus Question: How much does 1.5% Cash Back on every purchase sweeten the deal for a card? At what point does that APR/annual fee ratio become more favorable simply due to its having a Cash Back feature?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440249/ Fri, 01 May 2015 09:29:59 -0500
<![CDATA[Just sold my house, what to do with the money]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440238/ Rating: 1 Posted By: sc9092
Views: 1481 Replies: 25

So I just sold my house and made about 10K on the house in profit. I bought the house about 2 years ago, so I think I did ok with the profit. Question is what should I do with the extra money? I have about 40K in student loans, 20K in a car debt, have about 10k in savings and am currently renting an apartment(27yo single male making 65k annually). I thought about just putting the money back and using it for a down payment on the next house I plan on buying, maybe in fall/winter(hopefully get a better deal that time). I am bring in about 3400 take home pay monthly. The reason I sold the house is because the area I was living in is turning into a less desirable area and it was an older house that would need upgrades in the near future and I didn't want/need to mess with spending more money on that. Any advice?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440238/ Fri, 01 May 2015 08:50:56 -0500
<![CDATA[Mobile phone/plan to use in UK]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440236/ Rating: 0 Posted By: nk42
Views: 618 Replies: 21

I am travelling to UK in last week of Jun for a week. I am looking for advice to use my phone for limited calling back to us( only for emergencies) and some data usage. I currently have verizon here in USA but verizon doesn't seem to have any decent plan for UK usage. I am hoping my current phone should work in hotel with wifi for whats app/facebook.

Any advice would be really appreciated. I am ok even if i can buy a cheap prepaid phone which i can use to call usa.

Thanks in advance


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440236/ Fri, 01 May 2015 08:47:58 -0500
<![CDATA[Best car rental credit card]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440228/ Rating: 0 Posted By: titan01
Views: 768 Replies: 12

hi guys,

i'm about to rent a car, but not sure which credit card to use to rent so i have the most amount of coverage. i know some have insurance or some kind of protection already? if there's a link or something that's out there, please let me know.

thanks!


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440228/ Fri, 01 May 2015 07:07:30 -0500
<![CDATA[Advice on Pension Plan Termination]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440226/ Rating: 11 Posted By: atp2000
Views: 1858 Replies: 22

I am 60 years old, never married, no dependents. I am working part time self employed and currently contribute the maximum to in individual 401K plan. I am in good health with no chronic conditions. I currently live in New York state and plan to move to New Jersey next year.

My former employer is terminating its defined benefit pension plan. I have 3 options:

1 - A lump sum payout of $ 262,052.60 - (which can be rollovered tax free into an IRA account)
2 - An immediate life annuity of $ 1,355.50 per month
3 - A life annuity at starting at age 65 of $ 1,999.26 per month

Normally I would choose option 3, but there is added risk because the pension will no longer be guaranteed by the PBGC, but instead by one of 8 insurance companies. So the life annuity remains only as long as the insurance company remains solvent.

The insurance company paying the annuity can be any one of the following:
American General Life Insurance
American United Life Insurance
Massachusetts Mutual Life Insurance
Met Life
Pacific Life Insurance
Principal Life Insurance
Prudential Life Insurance
United of Omaha Life Insurance

Lump sum payout or an annuity paid out by one of these insurers?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440226/ Fri, 01 May 2015 07:01:41 -0500
<![CDATA[Old Topic: PayRoll Leap Year]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440185/ Rating: -4 Posted By: kpare
Views: 856 Replies: 22

There is a lot of poor advice on what to do with payroll leap year. One is to take annual salary and divide it by 27.Using the dominator of 27 can mean an employee is being shorted a paycheck. Before I get into a few examples, lets talk about why we have payroll leap year. As stated many times, because you are paid your annual salary in 364 days, you are actually paid an extra day every year (2 extra days during a real leap year). If you were employed by the same company for the last 11 years, you WILL receive an extra paycheck. It is very important to understand that this is not an extra paycheck in 2015, it is the sum of the additional days for the last 11 years.

Your HR department says that there are 27 pay periods in 2015; so they will divide your annual salary by 27. On the surface, this makes since, but when you understand where the 27th paycheck comes from, and you do the math, you will discover this is wrong. Lets look at someone who starts at a company on December 29, 2014 and the salary is supposed to be $52,000 per year. The first paycheck they receive will be on January 16, 2015 (They do not receive a paycheck on January 2, 2015). The last paycheck should be January 1, 2016, but that is a holiday, so they will receive a paycheck on December 31, 2015 (The end of the pay period is December 27, 2015). They will receive only 26 paychecks. So, you can see they worked from December 29, 2014 to December 27 2015. If the annual salary is divided by 26, they will receive $52,000. If the annual salary is divided by 27, they will receive $50, 074.07 ($1,925.93 short). You should also notice that they only worked 364 days. So, as stated earlier, they are paid for 1 extra day.

Someone may say that employees starting in 2015 are not subjected to the "divided by 27" method. Well then, if their pay is $2000 per week, then they will receive $52,000 which, as stated earlier, is correct. Now, lets look at someone who started December 15, 2014. Their first paycheck is January 2, 2015. They will receive 27 paychecks in 2015. If we divide their annual salary by 27, they will also receive $52,000; the exact same amount as the person starting December 29, 2014. They do receive $52,000 for 2015, but what happened to the 2 weeks worked 2014?Because the first paycheck is in 2015, and they divide the annual salary by 27, the paycheck is lost.

If this person should not subjected to the divided by 27 policy either, then the person who starts December 1, 2014, will receive the same pay as the person starting December 15, 2014. You can take this back to as far as you want. The bottom line is that if you were not working for the company 11 years ago, you were not over paid 14 extra days and you will be shorted salary.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440185/ Thu, 30 Apr 2015 23:59:35 -0500
<![CDATA[Is there any extended warranty, protection plan, etc... for a car, that is worth buying?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440152/ Rating: 3 Posted By: AndroAsc
Views: 2031 Replies: 32

From a FWF perspective, is there any extended warranty, protection plan, etc... that is worth buying? Obviously, the golden rule of FWF purchasing car is to say no to everything the dealer try to upsell you. Let's say that's done, and you got the base model with no extras, no bells and whistles, and now you are not at the dealer. Does it make sense to relook into any of these stuff?

Of the top of my head, I know that extended warranty for bumper-to-bumper coverage from the manufacturer are highly rated especially if you can get them "at cost", and all one need is a simple phone to call to certain dealers who sell them at very little profit margin. This seems to be very popular and highly rated on deal forums.

Is there anything else?
- Wheel/tire warranty/insurance? F&I guy tried to sell it to me, and at the back of my mind I was thinking doesn't the warranty covers cracked/damage wheels?
- Some teflon coating crap to make your car look new and/or preserve the looks. Are the coatings from new cars these days good enough? Does this extra layer help with resale value? For the record, I get screen protectors for all my electronics, and I was wondering if this is worth it....


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440152/ Thu, 30 Apr 2015 17:51:59 -0500
<![CDATA[90% LTV first mortgage or 80%/10% first and HEL]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440143/ Rating: 0 Posted By: dougouolo
Views: 740 Replies: 4

Trying to figure out which is a better deal for me mortgage-wise.

Purchase price is $400,000. I have the 20% down payment, but also need about $40K for immediate renovations. Comparing the following 2 choices.

A. 90% LTV, 4.0% interest rate, 30 yr mortgage, no PMI, monthly payment is $1,719.00 on $360k loan. Total due (principal + interest) = $619k.
B. 80% LTV, 3.75% interest rate, 30 yr mortgage, conventional, monthly pymt is $1,482.00 on $320k loan. Then do a $40k home equity loan, 15 yr, 5.25%, payment is $322. Total monthly is $1,804.00. Total due (principal + interest) = $591k.

To start, over the life of the mortgage, Option B is $28k cheaper.

But also considering that, with option A, I'll save $85/month for the first 15 years and could use that to build a nice amount. But once Year 16 arrives, with Option B, I'll save $237/month. Ran the numbers, it seems Option B still wins out here assuming that I use the savings to invest in the market and both return the same % for the entire 30 years.

Am I missing anything? From what I can see, Option B is by far the better deal. I can see that Option A would be better if I plan to keep the home for less than 15 years, right or no?

I intend to live in the house for the foreseeable future, but at same point, hope to upgrade, but plan to keep the home and rent it out when not living in it.

Thanks.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440143/ Thu, 30 Apr 2015 16:27:38 -0500
<![CDATA[Prepaying principal on mortgage ]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440123/ Rating: 0 Posted By: RagingBull
Views: 1123 Replies: 9

Hi,
I was wondering if you have two 15 year mortgages, first have interest of 4% and the other 4.5% , with mortgage number one having $300k remaining balance and the other having $260k remaining balance, but for the first mortgage monthly interest is $950 and second mortgage monthly interest is also $950, which mortgage is better to put a bigger one-time principal for? and since my mortgage is due the 1st of every month does that mean in order to save interest i need to put the extra one-time principal payment by the first of the month?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440123/ Thu, 30 Apr 2015 13:07:17 -0500
<![CDATA[Buying New Car: Yo-Yo Financing (come back and resign the paperwork)]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440070/ Rating: 0 Posted By: AndroAsc
Views: 1667 Replies: 24

I've been reading up on car scams, and the one that is particular bad for new cars who are financing through the dealer, is yo-yo financing. It works because the financing is not "final" after you drive off the lot, and a few days or weeks later the dealer call you back to re-sign the paperwork usually under less than ideal terms. Most of the articles I've read say that the way to protect yourself is to come armed with your own financing, but I still don't see how it helps...

So how do you really protect yourself from yo-yo financing?
1) Do you make sure the loan application was actually approved with the manufacturer financing? It seems that these contracts have a 10-days clause that allows the seller to take back the vehicle if they don't "like it", do I just not sign anything that has this "take back" clause?
2) I don't understand what the point of coming in with your own financing is, especially if you want to finance through the manufacturer for incentive/rebates. Do I just show the middle finger if they call me back to re-sign the paperwork by having my bank takeover the financing from the manufacturer?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440070/ Thu, 30 Apr 2015 06:14:31 -0500
<![CDATA[PMI Appraisal]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440014/ Rating: 2 Posted By: master44
Views: 1295 Replies: 12

I am at the point with my home loan where I can request PMI be removed; I submitted a formal request with my lender, who in turn requires an independent appraisal paid by me, but contracted through them.

The lender required me to submit a written request for the PMI appraisal review; after the lender received the request, I was contacted approximately a week later from someone out of state that said they received the request from my lender and would be coordinating the appraisal with someone local to my area. This coordinator person setup an appraiser to come to my property approximately 1 week later. The appraiser came to my property, did a quick walk through and then asked if we did any major improvements lately, the appraiser was at our house 5-10 minutes. The appraiser told me that they would submit the appraisal back to my lender within 2 business days.

It is now about a month later and the appraiser has not sent the appraisal to my lender. I've made several calls to the appraiser, but none have been answered or voice mails returned. I contacted the out of state coordinator who originally set up the local appraiser and was told that the appraisal is done, but there is a problem with sending the appraisal to the AMC. I am told that an AMC is a middleman between the appraiser and my lender and the appraiser is having trouble uploading the appraisal using the AMC's online system. I asked if the appraiser could mail, fax or email the appraisal and was told they will look into it, but they were not allowed to send it to me or the lender they had to go through this AMC.

I contacted my lender and they said this is unusual and shouldn't have taken more than 7-10 days and told me they recommend I setup another appraiser. The problem here is I may be on the hook for 2 appraisals if the first one eventually comes through.

Question is do I have any recourse against a slow and unresponsive appraiser? In talking with my lender they gave me the impression that appraisers are now untouchable, they are contracted through 3rd parties, report back through another intermediary and don't really appear to be accountable to anyone, especially not a homeowner. I am in Colorado and see that appraisers are licensed, but couldn't find anything on if there is an expectation of timeliness or what can be done as the consumer.

Any advice or past experience with dealing with appraisers in this situation. Because of the delay I will be paying another month of PMI and may have to pay another $450 fee for a new appraiser.

Thanks!


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440014/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 21:20:24 -0500
<![CDATA[Norways sovereign oil fund earns more than government spends]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440003/ Rating: -4 Posted By: newnorley
Views: 1160 Replies: 7


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1440003/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 20:12:56 -0500
<![CDATA[Citicards retention offer 3% cashback for 6 months up to $300 total CB YMMV]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439985/ Rating: 3 Posted By: andrey2506
Views: 960 Replies: 1

I just called the number on the back of my Citi Dividend card and told CSR that I am thinking of closing the card. I then asked the CSR to transfer me to the retention department and inquired about any retention offers available on my dividend account. A friendly guy from FL came up with additional 2% CashBack for the next 6 months (note that this extra CashBack DOES count towards the yearly limit of $300 CB!). So, this is not as hot if you plan to use the card for 5% spend this year (but you can also stack the two offers for effective 7% CashBack!).

Then I asked about my other card - Citi CR that was collecting dust for a long while. ...And the CSR came up with a very similar offer! 2% extra CashBack (for a total 3%) with $300 CB limit.

Call in and let everyone know what offers have you got!

Credit to DofC.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439985/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 18:20:14 -0500
<![CDATA[Hire lawyer here or there? Bought expensive item B, received item A. In addition, item damaged by shipping company]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439961/ Rating: 0 Posted By: okashiraaa
Views: 2147 Replies: 46

Hi

Need some quick advice on our situation.

We ordered an expensive, heavy item that was shipped from Iowa to TX. We specifically asked to ensure it was a "B" version of the item (this is very important.) I did not get pictures, because I trusted the person. However, I do have all phone conversations recorded.

After receiving the item, it is in fact an "A" version, AND, it's damaged.
I call seller to bitch about it being item A, short story he says money's already spent, sorry.
We file claim with shipper about damage, they have denied twice, 2nd time for "improper packing," It was shipped freight, company: LME.
The damage was significant and must have been the result of extreme negligence. i.e. it was not tied down at all and literally flew off the truck and flipped. The item was very heavy.
The seller is being somewhat cooperative with helping with the claim, but not nearly to a degree that satisfies us.
The fact that the item is an A not a B, significantly lowers its value, especially for our application.

Can we get a lawyer to handle both issues, and should it be done here in TX or IA? He lives in IA. He sold via an LLC, but I think we could show that he and the LLC and him are the same.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439961/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 15:28:19 -0500
<![CDATA[How to Best Handle Hospital Billing?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439955/ Rating: 0 Posted By: Kevo171
Views: 1443 Replies: 22

I had a serious infection last week and spent a night inpatient at a in-network hospital while out of state on a business trip. My insurance has a $250 copay for ER visits and then charges me 100% of the hospital bill up to my $2,000 deductible, after which it covers 100%. My out of pocket max for the year is $3,500.

I have yet to receive a bill, but anticipate needing to pay $2,000+ to the hospital. My concern is that I am not familiar with how the billing process works and I've had friends tell me to look out for problems with delays in payment from my insurance company to the hospital. Apparently it can take several months for the insurance company to pay the hospital and during that time the account can get sent to collections. My primary goal is ensuring that my credit stays in good shape.

I've already called the hospital to inquire about the bill and make sure they had my correct address and they wouldn't talk to me about the bill over the phone, citing HIPAA . I can't readily visit them in person since I live 1,400 miles away.

What should my strategy be for handling this?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439955/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 14:53:08 -0500
<![CDATA[To buy or not to buy]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439926/ Rating: 0 Posted By: chamathukodam
Views: 1845 Replies: 54

My friend is in a dilemma right now about a home buying situation. I lack experience and thought of asking here since most of you are good with such stuff.

She is divorced and makes 130k a year. She has no debt except a 401k where she has to pay 1000 per month but her savings have been reduced to 27k and her Monthly expenses run around 2000 dollars. She brings home 5k after Taxes and insurance. Her daughter school fees run around 700 dollars and she has seen a home for 370k and her bottom numbers run at 2600 and she lives in austin where home prices have been steadily going up. She loves this home for the school district and she wants to know if she can truly afford. Point to note - daughter fees will last until next sept and her 401k 1000 dollar debt will go in 2016. Her downpayment will be at 5%

What should she do? Buy or not buy. Renting in austin costs at least 1500 dollars.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439926/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 12:15:03 -0500
<![CDATA[Yieldng 20% in Germany (short with leverage disclosure)]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439899/ Rating: 0 Posted By: SinglePapa
Views: 836 Replies: 0


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439899/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 09:13:27 -0500
<![CDATA[Hartford cancelled my homeowners policy]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439898/ Rating: 1 Posted By: SendMeMoney
Views: 1950 Replies: 26

My house is for sale and there's a lockbox on the door. An inspector reported the house is abandoned (it's not but it is for sale).

I'm currently away for the winter but will be back to the house in about a month. So I can see why the inspector might have thought it was abandoned.

I called Hartford and they were adamant about the cancellation. I think it's totally unfair.

The insurance policy is from Hartford via AARP.

Do I have any recourse at all? If not, is there another carrier (in Connecticut) that would give me coverage at a reasonable fee?

Thanks,

SMM


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439898/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 09:02:51 -0500
<![CDATA[Personal rewards on company gas card?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439876/ Rating: 1 Posted By: Syrex
Views: 1245 Replies: 12

My company provides me with a fleet vehicle and gas card. Are there any rewards plans for pumping gas? I don't own a personal vehicle, so fuel rewards discounts such as Safeway wouldn't benefit me since I have no way of redeeming it for personal use.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439876/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 07:08:54 -0500
<![CDATA[Chase United 50,000 Points + 5,000 Points + $50 Offer]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439850/ Rating: 13 Posted By: doctorofcredit
Views: 3663 Replies: 33

It's possible to get the following bonus on the Chase United card:

  • $50 after your first purchase
  • 50,000 points after you make $3,000 in purchases within three months
  • 5,000 points when you add an authorized user and they make their first purchase within three months

There is no direct link, but if you search for a flight on United website on the first page of the seach results to the right hand side you'll see the offer. Comes with all of the standard benefits:

Make the Most of Your Miles*Full Details


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439850/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 01:32:17 -0500
<![CDATA[Best credit card for automotive parts/repair possibly gas]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439846/ Rating: 0 Posted By: capnkidd
Views: 868 Replies: 4

Hi,

I purchase a lot of automotive parts ( +10k per month) and wanted to know if there is any card or cards that offer bonuses better than the general 2%(fidelity or capital one spark) for categories related to automotive, repair or gas. I see that some suppliers I currently use are tagged as "automotive repair/gas" and wanted to try to maximize the points based on that category. Is there also a way to verify coding of the merchant to see if it would qualify for that bonus category?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439846/ Wed, 29 Apr 2015 00:54:20 -0500
<![CDATA[Unsure where to go from here financially (debt)]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439835/ Rating: 0 Posted By: acroRyanium
Views: 2134 Replies: 49

Ok, let me just get this out of the way, I messed up badly financially. I now realize this. Ok, on to the situation.

Basically, I have creditors calling me, I am living check to check putting all my money on bills, I'm going nowhere.

I graduated with a BA in sociology from a state university with a minor in Spanish 3 years ago. I ended up graduating with students loans which are now in the amount of almost $45,000. The student loans have been hard to manage because only about $15,000 of that is government backed student loans; the remainder are private loans, mostly from Sallie Mae. I have a car loan of $18,000. I have almost $10,000 in credit card debt. Rent and all utilities are about $800/month. I also have a $4000 furniture loan. Current job is paying $15/hour.

Basically, I don't know where to go from here. Are there any options available to me besides the obvious of finding a higher paid job? (Working on it, but have not been able to find one) I appreciate any help.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439835/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 22:28:18 -0500
<![CDATA[First time options trader. ]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439832/ Rating: -4 Posted By: Stockmoose16
Views: 1621 Replies: 49

I bought naked options with a June 19th expiration on Friday. The strike price was $295 and the shares were $295.47 when I bought them... So, in the money. Each option cost me about $12*100=1200. Am I correct in saying that the stock price must go above $307 for me to make any money, and anything below that would be a loss ($295+12 option price)? I thought that in the money, meant that unless the price fell below $295, I'd make positive gains.

The shares have dropped to 288, about 2%, but the options have dropped 12.5%! I've never traded options before and I'm not sure how to put myself in the best position to not lose all my money.

Please advise.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439832/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 22:11:14 -0500
<![CDATA[Dealer Wants Contract Re-signed]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439829/ Rating: 0 Posted By: tjguitar85
Views: 2792 Replies: 74

Purchased a new vehicle Sunday night.

Seller called tonight and said we need to re-sign the contract.

Basically the quoted price was allegedly an error and there was a lot of pushback from the manager, but they wanted to honor it, so we agreed to take an above market loan and refinance it after 90 days so they can get $1000 kickback from the lender. The extra interest is less than the incentive from NFCU to re-fi to them.

The back of the contract says that the seller can change their mind within 10 days, we have no interest in returning the car, but do not know if they would prefer to have it back and sell it at a higher price. I suspect something fishy is up, but I feel like they have us by the balls. Any thoughts?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439829/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 21:55:01 -0500
<![CDATA[Barclays NFL 1% fee Balance Transfer through 7/1/16]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439820/ Rating: 6 Posted By: Al3xK
Views: 1584 Replies: 14

I just recently got a balance transfer through July 1, 2016 for 1% fee in the mail.

See here:http://i.imgur.com/wocPbhr.png


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439820/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 20:53:51 -0500
<![CDATA[How much of a variation between dealers when buying a new car?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439791/ Rating: 0 Posted By: AndroAsc
Views: 1465 Replies: 18

So I followed the FWF guide to buying new car, and I'm down to the following situation. This is for a Honda Civic SE. At this point, with the exception of 1-2 dealers who are quoting me prices that are obviously outliers, I'm getting a total price of about $18,200 to $18,600, and that works out to between $19-20k after taxes, fees, title, plate, etc...

I'm getting only a $500 variation between various dealers (about 5+ at this point). I figured that there can be two possibility:
1) The market is really that competitive and I have reached rock bottom. There are 13 Honda dealers within a 50 mile radius, and I haven't even contacted those further away.
OR
2) I am not getting a good deal and the dealers have somehow cartel-ed together to maintain a certain price range and stick this price range to noobs like me.

How do I know if I can push any further? Right now, TrueCar.com is giving me an estimate of $19,302 (which I think is inflated since TrueCar.com is in bed with the dealers now), Edmunds.com is giving me a price estimate of $19,413 (again looks too high) and CarsDirect.com is giving me a price estimate of $18,677. Are there any sites that I can check to see what the real cost of the car should be?

My objective is get the car below the official invoice price and as close to the true dealer cost as possible. I read that holdback and other hidden deals between the manufacturer and the dealer account for 2-3% of the official invoice price, which works out to be about $500. So have I reached the rock bottom here?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439791/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 18:05:01 -0500
<![CDATA[Where to safely invest $500,000 for 6 months?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439785/ Rating: -1 Posted By: techfather
Views: 1992 Replies: 34

Right now I have $500,000 in Barclays Online Savings Account "earning" 1% but would like more as long as it's safe and I can easily withdraw it in 6 months (and then invest again in January for 10 months). Where should I put my money?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439785/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 17:45:54 -0500
<![CDATA[Investing in Puerto Rico bonds?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439779/ Rating: 0 Posted By: needhelpplease
Views: 1139 Replies: 5

http://www.cnbc.com/id/102628392

As for investors who are already in the Puerto Rico debt market, she said there is a bright side. "So many of these bonds are insured, and that is the silver lining," Lebenthal said. "Those insured bonds, even in default, the insurance company will pay interest on time and will pay principal on time."

So what's the risk? How does a retail investor get in?


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439779/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 17:24:38 -0500
<![CDATA[Help me figure out ROI on SEP IRA in Edward Jones and tell me if I should move my money to Vanguard]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439761/ Rating: 0 Posted By: techfather
Views: 1189 Replies: 10

Hi!
I started investing in March 2009 when I put $30,000 into SEP IRA with Edwards Jones (I know, great timing, terrible broker). Since then I've invested significant amounts to my SEP IRA with EJ totaling $236,673.72 of "cost basis" or $214,500 of "amount invested". Knowing what I know now I *think* it's best to move my money to Vanguard even though I already paid front-load fees to EJ. What I'm trying to figure out is my ROI on my investment with EJ and Vanguard. There are two pages on EJ - one says Cost Basis which shows 11.8% ROI (I thought this was good until I realized my initial $30,000 was invested at the best possible time) and Amount Invested which shows nice round numbers and ROI of 21.1%. Which one do I go by and what's the difference between the two?

I have since also put $50,000 in SEP IRA with Vanguard forVASGX in March 2013 which would seem to come out to 28.25% ROI but on Balance over time page it only shows 11.5% ROI. On main page it shows total cost of $52,836.98 (why is it higher if I didn't buy anything?) and unrealized gain of $11,290 (ROI of 21.37%) Which is it and why is there such a large discrepancy? I calculate ROI as the difference between current value and invested value divided by invested value, e.g. $50,000 invested with Vanguard, current value $64,126.97 for ROI of 28.25% which I mentioned earlier.

Lastly, I thought that my EJ and Vanguard returns were similar (I was looking at cost basis ROI with EJ which showed 11.8% and Vanguard which showed 11.5%). This does not appear to be the case and clearly it seems better for me to move everything to Vanguard. Gurus, please confirm my findings


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439761/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 15:46:59 -0500
<![CDATA[Low/No-Cost International Transfers (Wire, etc) for Non-Profit]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439759/ Rating: -1 Posted By: Raptor
Views: 876 Replies: 13

We have a non-profit organization that needs to transfer (from the US) sums up to $10,000 USD to USD to these countries on a regular basis:

Russia
Burlingame
Bosnia Hercegovina

Currently using Bank of America, but the fees and incompetence is frustrating. I have seen the other threads mentioning Citibank, but does not seem to cover the above. Any ideas on what the best option might be? The person managing these transfers would prefer a bank/credit union with a B&M location if needed. Thanks!


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439759/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 15:34:58 -0500
<![CDATA[Hands off IRA Investing]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439647/ Rating: 0 Posted By: centski
Views: 1687 Replies: 25

I have now got about 100K+ in rollover and roth IRA. My work/family life does not allow me to actively manage my retirement account. I would rather pay to have my money managed by a professional than keeping it in cash.
Fidelity would charge me about 1%/yr to manage my account. Based on their review I am not quiet impressed but that will be my last resort.

I am curious what FWF would recommend.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439647/ Tue, 28 Apr 2015 00:00:56 -0500
<![CDATA[Breaking lease, should i pay for renovation time?]]> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439616/ Rating: 0 Posted By: OnePlus
Views: 1877 Replies: 30

I am trying to break my lease and as an alternate i have been provided is that landlord is willing to let someone else sign new lease. But here is the catch. They want to renovate the apartment before they could raise the price and rent it to next person and i will have to pay for time spent in renovation too until it gets re-rented. Renovation could take up to one month.

The other option is to pay two months rent and get out.

I want to go for first option but i don't see why i should be forced to pay for renovation time cause no renter can live or rent while that is going on. So really i lose one month of rent anyways and then there is no guarantee that it will be rented by next month either.


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http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1439616/ Mon, 27 Apr 2015 19:56:55 -0500