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FatWallet Deal Hunters are the best!

If you're a Deal Hunter, please share your secrets to help newer members contribute quality deals. Positive contributions here will earn you schwag


If you're new to deal hunting, watch and learn...

Hot Deals FAQ

Hot Deals Leaderboard

FatWallet Community

Ads by Google
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Regardless of the item, I usually check for a baseline "street price" at one of the price search engines...pricegrabber, pricewatch, froogle, etc first. eBay often serves well as a (semi-inflated) baseline price...Then I work to beat that.

FatCash/coupons: 1) I check FW for deals on that product or similar ones. 2) I next check FW promotions like coupons or FatCash for the retailer

MIRS: This is almost an artform. I'll cover this a little later.

Tax: If you can buy from a retailer that has no store presence in-state you can avoid tax. E.g.

Shipping: There's often free shipping codes. Many places have free shipping after a certain limit (e.g. Amazon, free >25)

Retailer: Check resellerratings.com to make sure you're not giving your CC info to some fly-by-night website/guy in his garage in Nigeria. This generally helps you avoid bad online experiences, this is important because returning things from online retailers is harder than BM stores.

BM: If you need it quick, or if it's heavy/expensive to ship, try to find it locally

CL: I often forget this, but I'm getting better. Buying used stuff off Craigslist is usually a great deal. E.g. I was trying to buy a Velodyne sub a while back, ended up finding it for 1/2 the lowest price I could find it new.

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The last deal I posted was from using one of the easiest methods out there. Fill your amaz0n shopping bag with any items you may want to purchase now or in the future for yourself or gifts. Check daily by clicking on your shopping cart. Any items that change price (we all know amaz0n prices fluctuate like crazy) will be highlighted in a summary at the top of the page- instantly tipping you off to a great deal on an item you want for a holiday gift, yourself or to flip.
It only takes a moment to check the account in the am or later in the day. I have found some unbelievable deals doing this.....although I am sure pecanpie has some advice to give on finding amaz0on deals

eta: remember this- knowledge is power, so be sure you know the best price out there. I like the free shipping and tax free aspect of amaz0n as sales tax here is nearly 10%- things to always keep in mind when looking for a deal...as shipping often kills the deal for me.

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I'll add a few things...

PM (price-matching): This can be tough, but it can make for some great deals. Be sure to read the retailer's terms and conditions carefully. Many folks think that any deal involving a PM should be YMMV (your mileage may vary).

Coupons- Don't forget to check eBay for any coupons that might be available. But coupons alone don't necessarily make a great deal, so be sure to check prices at Google Shopping or a similar site.

Tax- Sites like Newegg and Amazon that only operate in a few states usually only charge taxes in those states. This can make things much less expensive.

Edited since I forgot- Search!! Always do a search in the relevant forums before posting a deal. It's always possible that a deal you found has already been posted. If there's one that's similar, try editing the Quick Summary pane instead of posting a thread.

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my deal hunting strategies are as follows;

1. I buy at 60% off or more only if possible. Buying items with less than that percentage of savings lets you to buy less and decreases your overall shopping expenditures. why buy 2 items at $30 each only 40% discount off with $.50 FW CashBack when you can get 3 with 60% or more off discount, priced $40 and with $.75 FW CashBack.

2. WAIT and shop after an intense research homework session, best way to stretch your budget is to avoid impulse buying.

3. Ask members here where they shop, how to get best deals, What avg going price is. It is better to ask than to overspend then be sad because you realize you overspent.

4.coupon codes!, coupon codes!, coupon codes! if you plan on getting an item, get free stuff at stores like Office Depot with free gift with Min purchase coupons. It overall reduces the per item costs. the free items can be gifted thus saving you the $$ you would have spent on a gift for birthdays or holidays. Sometimes it is better to use coupons that saves you money and lets you get free shipping, even better is to combine instant savings like free shipping specials at stores with percentage off coupon codes. sometimes you even can get FW CashBack for triple savings.

5. search out and frequent clearance bins and inventory reduction type sales. make your own bookmarks to clearance pages of merchants.

some resources I use;
Amazon Filler FinderThanks Pecanpie
Amazon Discount Search
Hot Current Deals Keywords Cloud
Coupon Codes Galore
Always Check Weekly Ads for Specials Here & Here


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First and foremost, the Title. IMO, it should contain:

* Name of item. If name of item is something like "Sony XKCMOBL-113P2", then perhaps adding "64in Plasma TV" or "10MP Digital Camera" would be useful. In other words, don't assume that everyone has all the model numbers of every electronic item memorized like you, ubernerd

* Who has it on sale? Is it available at B&M (Brick and Mortar, physical store) or .com (online) or both?

* How much?

* Any rebates? (AR = After Rebate, IR = Instant Rebate, MIR = Mail-in Rebate)

* Any coupons? (AC = After Coupon)

* Any FatWallet CashBack (aka FatCash) or other click-through rebates?

* Any other potential discounts? (Percentage off, BOGO, etc)

* Is it refurbished/OEM or any other condition than new/retail?


So a proper title might look like:

Sony XKCMOBL-113P2 10MP Digital Camera $212.99 AR/AC/FC Sears.com!


Most folks DON'T appreciate:

* Overpunctuation!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

* YELLING!!! IT MAKES THE FORUM SUMMARY VERY DIFFICULT TO READ.

* The OP (original poster) telling the FW population that their deal is hot. Just post the deal, let the members decide if it's hot.

* Similarly, don't ASK us if it's hot by posting it in Hot Deals. If you think it's a good deal, post it. If it's not hot, it will just drift to the bottom.

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Don't reply with "Thanks OP". The OP knows we appreciate the deal by a red or green rating. There is nothing worse than seeing a deal, getting tired wading through 5000 "Thanks OP" replies, only to find out that the 5001 message, that you didn't read, was actually something important about the item, like a better price elsewhere or a high failure rate.

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Don't create a strict category and tell people to post there. For example "Office Depot Deals".

Do I really need to wade through 10,000 message from the past ten years to find the latest deals at OD? If a new OD deal comes up, go ahead and post a new message.

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Post what the item actually is (JGH542 Hard Driver or KD516 10MP Digital Camera) and not just a model number (JGH542 or KD516) so people don't waste time clicking on something only to find out it is of no interest to them. This also allows people to a search on a specific item and to be notified for a match of their topic alerts.

There is nothing worse than a post like "SXR-7200XD Best Price Ever and $50 Rebate, HOT HOT HOT!!!" only to find out is is for a diaper changing table.

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If you have a deal that is available two different ways... for instance, a $10 off $100 coupon that is valid both online and in a B&M (brick and mortar) store, resist the temptation to post it in a combined deal. For instance:

$20 savings at Office Depot!

Instead, post

$10 off $100 at Office Depot.com/B&M

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glenatuf said: eBay often serves well as a (semi-inflated) baseline price...

i'd say that eBay tends to be lower than average street pricing - as it should be, as there is more uncertainty in the transaction..

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Whatatay said: Don't reply with "Thanks OP".
Wow, some touchy people here giving you red. I agree with you. If you want to say thanks, at least say something else relevant. A post of "thanks" or "in for one," etc., and nothing more is pointless. It contributes nothing to a thread and just takes up space. If you like a deal (or not), that's what the ratings bar is for. These must be the same people that get all hung up in the MCR thread if someone doesn't post "RNBM."

Update: Glad to see the green has overtaken the red in the post I refer to above. There are a few sensible people on this board after all.

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darkfyre said: i'd say that eBay tends to be lower than average street pricing - as it should be, as there is more uncertainty in the transaction..

I disagree, in my experience eBay is full of chumps who are willing to pay more that what I consider the going rate. This is the main reason I almost never buy anything off eBay. This is also what makes it a good place to sell. It's, IMO, a large collection of unsophisticated buyers.

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A little bit about MIR shopping:

Find a rebate, then look for retailers who don't know about it. This is the source of most of the really really hot deals (e.g. FAR hard drives, lower-than-wholesale prices, etc).

E.g. go to the pentax website, find their promotions then go find the lowest price around.

To be safe, call the rebate house to make sure it is an authorized retailer.

-G

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About Posting on FW
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Whatatay said: Don't reply with "Thanks OP". The OP knows we appreciate the deal by a red or green rating. There is nothing worse than seeing a deal, getting tired wading through 5000 "Thanks OP" replies, only to find out that the 5001 message, that you didn't read, was actually something important about the item, like a better price elsewhere or a high failure rate.

I disagree with this completely. One of the amazing functions of FW is the community editable summary. It's there for a reason - use it. Getting a handful "thanks man!" is a great way to inspire people to post new deals. In the same respect though, flaming(attacking) a poster due to a non-deal, incorrect information, or a double post is a sure-fire way to push people away from the forums.


  • If you know of a review or report on the item, if you find relavent information (such as drivers or what have you, or if you find a better price post a damn link to it in the Summary page. I'll agree that wading through 45 posts about irrelevant information to find "oh, you may want to download these drivers or it wont function properly" when I could have just read it in the quick summary. On the other hand, quick summary should not be used as a personal opinion review section. It should contain factual or relavent links, coupon codes, or B&M availability status.

  • Green / Red should not be used as a "thanks OP", "you spelling is nots good so me red you" or worse yet, to red a post because it was a double post. Again, there is a function to alert mods about duplicate posts, use it! Giving a red to a deal because its a dup post is a terriable idea, for a lot of people they don't keep track of every thread that has been started so when they see the most recent thread (the one you all are redding - they may instantly think there is something that is detracting the value to the DEAL and not the THREAD and simply not bother reading it.

  • If you are the OP (Original Poster) - be prepared to edit the title and information within the post. Although the quick summary is an amazing feature, editing your original post is often neccesary. Unfortunately the flagging system is often abused as stated above and one of the main causes for a poorly flagged (red) post is directly coorelated to the post and not the deal.




About deal hunting
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I'm sure this has already been covered here but I'm going to post for the sake of repition just incase. There are two approaches to deal hunting: a very direct approach and a casual great find

* marks a recently added tip.


Direct approach is when you have a specific item in mind that you are looking for, IE a laptop.

  1. First and foremost should be to do research on the product that you are looking to buy. Don't just get a feel for the pricing of products but really try to get a good understanding of what you are looking for. Figure out your range in not only price but also specifications

  2. The second part of research is prob the most important and the one I often neglect and regret. Do your homework on upcoming releases of the product. When a new version of a product is released it significantly pushes down the price of the old line. There is nothing more discouraging to find out that you could have saved $50 if you had waited a week or two

  3. Another important part of your research should be to determine whether or not the product you are looking for can be bought in stages. This is important for two reasons, one is that if you can slowly build something you can extend your budget over a longer period allowing you to build something that is far better than if you simply splurged all at once. Also, more importantly is that it is often cheaper to buy the base product and expand upon it. For instance, in terms of a laptop it is generally much cheaper to buy a laptop with minimal memory and then buying the RAM from sites like Newegg.com or frys.com

  4. Get a feel for whether or not the refurbished units of the product/manufactorer are of decent quality. In some instances, a refurbished unit can be better than one that comes off the line because they have been inspected and rebuilt to last. On other hand there are products and manufactorers that you should never buy a refurbished unit from.

  5. Use tools like froogle.com to get a feel for the baseline price.

  6. Setup a mail account specifically for retailer newsletters. Join as many as you can and then have that mail account forward to your primary. In your primary account, setup a folder that directs all incoming mail from that dump email account to the folder. This way its not cluttering up your mailbox but you can check it periodically when you are in the mood to shop.

  7. Always search for coupon codes before buying something. You can almost always find one, even if you have to beg one from the One-Time-Use-Forum or buy it from e-bay.

  8. Use pricematch policies to your advantage. Many stores provide a 'price-match' garuntee that may offer a price match of say 110%. Some amazing deals can stem from this approach if you are able to couple the price match with a rebate or a coupon. Note that this may not always work, so it is YMMV(your milage may vary).

  9. Always try to use competitors coupons to sweeten the deal. A lot of retailers will claim to accept coupons of competition. However, managers that think they know better than corp. will sometimes try to block this. Note that this may not always work, so it is YMMV(your milage may vary).

  10. Setup alerts for keywords that target the item you are after. For instance, if you are after a 42" LCD tv, you would want to setup alerts for keywords like "LCD", "42", "TV", and so on. This is a great way to use FatWallet features to your advantage.

  11. * Try to figure out if high-end manufacturers of a product have an "off-brand." It is generally a common practice for the same factory that makes one high-end product to repackage and throw a new label on it for a lower-end product line.
  12. More to come when I have more time...



A casual great find is something that you impulsively buy due to a great price. These are often the most fun IMO.

  1. * When you see a post about a clearance item, do not call your local stores asking if they have it in stock. Store employees will often buy the remaining stock or alert their friends to do so.

  2. Get to know where the clearance section is in all of the stores that you frequent like Target, WalMart, Circuit City, Bed Bath and Beyond and so forth and make it a habbit of passing by there when you are shopping.

  3. If you are serious about deal hunting and love the hunt, get to know when your stores post items on clearance. There is generally a schedule that stores follow when marking down products and if you are the first to rummage through it - you'll often find better products on clearance. If you are diehard about it, you can set your shopping schedule around it.

  4. Train yourself to spot clearance tags or hidden pricing that indicates clearances. For instance, Sams Club (depending on location) will end a product with the price of .01 if its on clearance. The hidden clearance can often be the best finds because store employees may not know about them and havent had a chance to buy for resale.

  5. When shopping for food specifically - check for products that are about to expire. Stores often mark down meat, bread, etc that will expire in a few days. You can either freeze it or eat it that day and save a good chunk of change.

  6. Buy clothing for next year and not this year. Clothing stores will seriously mark down prices when they are changing seasons

  7. Check out discount stores like Ross, Marshals, TJ Max. You can often find great products at really low prices.

  8. Whenever you run into a good coupon, like Best Buy 10%/12% off coupon, print off a couple and put them in your glove box. That way if you ever run into a clearance item you can attempt to use the coupon as well. Note, most coupons state they are for full-retail price so don't expect for this to always work.

  9. More to come when I have more time...



...Enjoy, and happy hunting.

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If you follow this one precept, then your time would not have been wasted:

"Buy low, sell high!"

It's that simple. High Five!

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Read the stickies in each forum before posting. They have a *lot* of information.

If you are posting in the finance forum, do your homework. Be prepared to justify, follow-up, and be asked a lot of questions. You will not be spoon-fed, and if you present that you have done your homework and need some specific help, most members will be very helpful and forthcoming.

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Do not INVENT acronyms. See the FAQ: Text. If the acronym is not there, don't use it. Perhaps consider submitting it for addition to the list. Everyone can refer to the list, but not everyone can GUESS what a new acronym is trying to convey.

Or: Acronym Finder

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vsfoxe said: Do not INVENT acronyms. See the FAQ: Text. If the acronym is not there, don't use it. Perhaps consider submitting it for addition to the list. Everyone can refer to the list, but not everyone can GUESS what a new acronym is trying to convey.

Or: acronymfinder


Learn to post links correctly:
Acronym Finder

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bobbybore said: vsfoxe said: Do not INVENT acronyms. See the FAQ: Text. If the acronym is not there, don't use it. Perhaps consider submitting it for addition to the list. Everyone can refer to the list, but not everyone can GUESS what a new acronym is trying to convey.

Or: acronymfinder


Learn to post links correctly:
Acronym Finder
LOL pwned!

Me, I agree with Sanjoelo. Don't call your own post "hot"; the community as a whole will decide that. I mean, unless you can guarantee it's 95% off the lowest price ever seen, THEN, maybe, just *maybe*, you can say "HOT" in the title. But that's rare, and few and far between. I also hate all the "thanks OP!" posts. Useless, and usually people just looking to up their post count.

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Get a credit card with a solid credit limit and feature set. Staying loyal to one card has not only given me great limits but also additional leverage when deals have gone sour (missing rebates, invalid rebates, etc.).

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Some of my personal deal hunting tips:

  • Topic Alerts are great. I set them up often after I make my holiday/birthday shopping lists. Yes, I do this way in advance to make sure I get the best price on the things I want to buy. If you make the list early and set up Topic Alerts, a good deal on what you need is bound to come up in the forums. You can set these to instantly notify you via email when an item you want is discussed.

  • I'm also a big fan of keeping a gift closet. Deals often come up on items I don't need at the moment. But, if the price is right, I buy it anyway and save it for an occasion. When my daughter gets invited to birthday parties for friends, we usually have something nice in the gift closet for her to take along.

  • Shop clearance after season. Stock up for next year with what's cheap now.

  • Check your purchase on PriceGrabber.com. Sometimes, they'll have a PG rebate available that can make a deal even sweeter.

  • Remember to use Cash Back and to always search for a coupon before checkout.


Deal posting tips:

  • Research before you post. Make sure you are posting the best possible deal on the item. PriceGrabber and Froogle are both good resources for this.

  • Details are important. Share the bottom-line price if you can - including shipping charges, expiration dates, and coupons that may be used.

  • Search the forums to make sure the deal you want to share has not already been posted.

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FatWallet News said:
  • Search the forums to make sure the deal you want to share has not already been posted.



Indeed. Oldies and newbies alike seem to be failing miserably in this regardmore than ever lately. It's common sense really. Think before you post, please.

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yoregano said: FatWallet News said:
  • Search the forums to make sure the deal you want to share has not already been posted.



Indeed. Oldies and newbies alike seem to be failing miserably in this regardmore than ever lately. It's common sense really. Think before you post, please.


One easy way I find of doing this is by checking categorization for the product, because every deal is done by store, and manufacture. This makes it easier to find deals where the search phrase doesn't match.

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' I also hate all the "thanks OP!" posts. Useless, and usually people just looking to up their post count.'

just curious...why would anyone care what their post count is? what difference does it make?

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Research prices, verify that it isn't already posted - but don't make it such a huge job that you decide it's easier just to buy it yourself and forget it! Yeah, if you goof up you'll be told (probably in no uncertain terms) but if you research for hours and dither over possibly being raked over the coals, somebody else will post it somewhere (here or elsewhere) and the opportunity to either post it first or buy it will be lost.

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glenatuf said: darkfyre said: i'd say that eBay tends to be lower than average street pricing - as it should be, as there is more uncertainty in the transaction..

I disagree, in my experience eBay is full of chumps who are willing to pay more that what I consider the going rate. This is the main reason I almost never buy anything off eBay. This is also what makes it a good place to sell. It's, IMO, a large collection of unsophisticated buyers.


Just search e bay for Wal Mart gift card, and you'll see people buying a $100 gift card for $103 or something like that! Duh! They get caught up in the bidding war process and forget their purpose. I have also seen a $20 gift card go for $19.98. Was that two cents really worth all that time and potential fraud? I think not. I have also seen things for less than I can buy at my local B&M store however, also. So, it's definitely a mixed bag.

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I have to disagree about eBay reflecting an "inflated" price. The trick with eBay is to buy things that are not "commodity-like." What do I mean? Well, consider an iPod. Ipods are sold for (roughly) the same price everywhere because there is little profit margin on them, and it is difficult to get them at an extreme discount because they are in such demand. Same with the Nintendo Wii, or any other item that is HOT, whether it is an mp3 player, a game console, or a handbag.

eBay is always the best place to get a deal if you are looking for something that is NOT IN DEMAND. I buy most of my clothes on eBay because I get them anywhere from 60% - 90% off of retail. If it's something you want, but not many other people want, there will be little or no competition, which means you will get the item for less. I have purchased some of the top brands such as Kenneth Cole, Ralph Lauren and Guess products consistently.

A good example is a pair of shoes. Many people buy last season's shoes (the ones that are usually on clearance at dept. stores) and sell them on eBay. Go to a department store, try on some shoes until you find what you like. Keep an eye on eBay over the next few months, and chances are they will show up, brand new, and probably 50% less (maybe more) than what you would have paid for them. Sure they are probably on clearance at the dept. store, but who has time driving to multiple locations to find your size?

Anyway, you get the point... Just my $.02.

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If you join freeshipping.com you can get up to $10 of shipping refunded to you. There a a lot of merchants they cover and it's great around the holidays! it costs about $60 to join but you can get $500 worth of free shipping. I easily recoup my investment . it does take them some time to send your checks but you can track them on thier website.

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Whenever I buy anything on the net, before buying, I google "name of site" + coupons.
50% of the times I can find some coupon or other to get a discount.

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darkfyre said: glenatuf said: eBay often serves well as a (semi-inflated) baseline price...

i'd say that eBay tends to be lower than average street pricing - as it should be, as there is more uncertainty in the transaction..


I stopped shopping on eBay just because of the inflated prices, especially for Sephora stuff, 30% to 50% higher than buying direct online or giving them a call.

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Great deals are not always about the money.(persay) A great deal can also be about superior performance at a great price. (Reference my following post about a Husky 200 lumens flashlight that is selling at a (normal) price of about $26 after tax, but out performs some lights costing hundreds.)

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/876143?highlight_key=y&keyword1=husky

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.

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I have a printable coupon, how do i post it in fatwallet.

Moderator Comment: Check your PM's:) — Mar. 23, 2009 @ 10:00am
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chessycatlane said: ' I also hate all the "thanks OP!" posts. Useless, and usually people just looking to up their post count.'

just curious...why would anyone care what their post count is? what difference does it make?

Dito...I post a lot to help cp'r with the codes when they're at work ( and yes I know I'm not SUPPOSED to do that)
however, some people post to see their post or is it really for the money. Where do I sign up?

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I would say that in addition to this generally good advice (above) you should sit down and decide what it is exactly you want/need before online deal-hunting. Often, finding a good deal can overpower your ability to decide if you need a product or not. Just because you find a nice shirt on Overstock.com for 80% off does not mean you need a new shirt. I have personally spent a lot of unnecessary time deal-hunting for the sake of deal-hunting and realize only later that if I'm not ever wearing that shirt than any price I paid for it was too much.

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back to rules no 1.

"A good deal is always never be a deal when you don't need it!"

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I found Google Reader to be very effective in weeding through the deal sites. most deal hunting site are having RSS feeds which can be subscribed in Google Reader ( including but not limited to FW and CL). Take a your time to configure your reader, now you can utilize your search skils to search among all the deal sites from a single point.

I like the feature of defining filters and wait a few days until the best deals shows up. You can share your subscriptions and filters with your friends as well ( who might be looking for a similar deal)

rated:
A new service that facilitates getting deals is www.pricewhispers.com. The service lets you name the price you would pay for any specific product offered at any of their retailer partners. It is a nice option to have in addition to the classic pay the list or wait and hope for discounts options.

They only offer their service via pre-approved partner sites and they are a new service so there's only a few so far but it's an innovative and empowering approach to online retail. Signing up is free so seems like a nice upside for little effort.

rated:
gohdes said: glenatuf said: darkfyre said: i'd say that eBay tends to be lower than average street pricing - as it should be, as there is more uncertainty in the transaction..

I disagree, in my experience eBay is full of chumps who are willing to pay more that what I consider the going rate. This is the main reason I almost never buy anything off eBay. This is also what makes it a good place to sell. It's, IMO, a large collection of unsophisticated buyers.


Just search e bay for Wal Mart gift card, and you'll see people buying a $100 gift card for $103 or something like that! Duh! They get caught up in the bidding war process and forget their purpose. I have also seen a $20 gift card go for $19.98. Was that two cents really worth all that time and potential fraud? I think not. I have also seen things for less than I can buy at my local B&M store however, also. So, it's definitely a mixed bag.
i know this post has long since past, but all the same -

i think that some people may have credits that they can use for eBay that they cannot use at WalMart (to use the above example) and so wish to use this medium to convert it. plus these days you get eBay bucks.

so just because it doesn't make sense on the surface doesn't mean it doesn't make sense to the person doing it in the end. altho that is still a possibility.

Skipping 33 Messages...
rated:
Use Invisible Hand browser add-on that will scour the net and find the cheapest price on the item you're currently looking at.

http://www.getinvisiblehand.com/

Works with Firefox, Chrome and Safari.

Once you find the cheapest price, come on back to Fatwallet and see if the store participates in the Cash Back program for even more savings!

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