Cheap auto paint job - Maaco etc

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I am looking for Cheap paint job for my recently purchased old mercedes with faded anbd cracked silver gray metallic paint . The car was purchased in the beater price range but has no dents or rust being too good for the spray can method . What is the story on those $200-400 Maaco auto paint jobs ? - Thanks

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larrymoencurly said: <blockquote><hr>Actually lacquer is one of the least hazardous paints to use, but shops rarely use ... (more)

Radford (Jul. 08, 2006 @ 1:28a) |

Old-fashioned enamels, i.e. the kinds that don't have a catalyst added to them, can be color sanded and compounded, but... (more)

larrymoencurly (Jul. 08, 2006 @ 7:35p) |

I had a car painted at my local Maaco a couple years ago, leaving it with them while I went on vacation for a week. When... (more)

enabler (Jul. 09, 2006 @ 2:54p) |

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From what I've heard from auto body mechanics, they do a bad job. They will offer that price, then tell you that A, B, and C isn't included. Things such as sanding the old chips down, etc.

We had a Volvo painted at Earl Shieb a few years back. They also did quite a bit of body work. Both facets have held up very well. I wouldn't go there with a 3 yr old car, but with an older beater it's just right, at the right price.

bamx2 said: What is the story on those $200-400 Maaco auto paint jobs ? - Thanks

You get what you pay for. Results do vary of course by location, but don't expect anywhere near perfect quality. You are better off calling around local paint/auto body shops and see what they charge.

They basically just machine sand, and the masking won't be very good.

If you do your own prep and bring the car in already masked and cleaned, you can get a very good paint job for $200-300, not just from Maaco or Earl Scheibe but about any body shop because 80-90% of a paint job is in the preparation work.

A $200-300 paint job consists of little more than a machine sanding, a quick and not very accurate masking, and then a coat of primer-surfacer and 2-3 coats of finish paint. A good paint job costs more like $3000.

It's the new sensation!
$50 Paint Job

Perfect for FW forums!

$300 will get you a scuff n spray.

overspray all over, basically garbage. I'm sorry to say but for a factory new finish you will pay $2000-4000 depending on the paint type. no joke. Alot of time goes into making the car look new again. all the little dents, prep work, sanding, removing trim, etc.

$300 is like when you see that weird yellow car and you got eww. Thats what you get.

oh yeah each door $25-50 each, hood area $75 , trunk/hatch $75. Whatever they can paint, what they can't paint they probably paint over or miss.

crazy huh?

I had MAACO paint a VW Bus - I removed everything that was bolted on (door handles lishts, bumpers. I washed and degreased (pre-sol) it then I sanded with 280/320/400 WD sand paper and had them spot prime and paint. It looked great when I put pieces back on and was still shinny after 3 years. Go with same color and you'll be happy for a driver.

I read the posts and all I can say is WOW!!

It's the new sensation!
$50 Paint Job

I read the posts and all I can say is WOW!!
green for peachee

peachee said: It's the new sensation!
$50 Paint Job

Perfect for FW forums!

That's an interesting idea and a good read!

Thanks peachee <img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif" border=0>

Maaco painted my dad's older BMW's sunroof shut. He was not pleased.

It's really pretty easy to do yourself. You just need the air brush (rent one) & pt.(doesn't need much). If you have an supply store in your area you can get really great stuff. Pt. code is usually under the hood or on the door.

If you have Maaco do it, hope you like Bondo. You bring it in & it weighs 200lbs more when you get it <img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif" border=0>

they do not use professional paint like PPG. So in a year or two it will fade and look very bad.

If you do it make sure you at least get a clear coat. My friend got one with "clear coat mixed in" and that was all faded in 1 year.

I have had good luck buying high quality paint at an auto paint store and having people I've met on car forums do the job in their garages in exchange for $300.

peachee said: It's the new sensation!
$50 Paint Job

Perfect for FW forums!

$50 paint job. Perfect for that beater that's only worth $500.

PICTURE 1 and PICTURE 2 of $50 job.

I've had Schibe and Maaco both paint cars for me and as many have said prep is the key to a good finish. It doesn't matter what kind of paint you use or how much you pay if the prep isn't done right. My wife loved her old 260Z and it ran like a top. we preped and masked and they painted over everything but when we got it back and pulled off the mask it looked good. She drove it for a couple more years and we sold it for twice what we paid. Of course we had a new interior to go with the Racing Green and dash cover. My 54 F100 was two tone Brown/w/black fenders and getting in done there was a longer process than I immagined but it looked good. Wheel wells and door jams are also extras. lol.

every day i went there these illegals would show up and ask if there was any work, some days yes, some days no. definitely not in english. I suspect this maaco was working on the low-low. I'm guessing this is not the best way to keep the work quality consistent.

progressive uses ghetto shops for cheap cars, the bmw/audi/benz/etc all go to premier shops. you guys knew that right??

I used Earl Shieb once and was very pleased. They did use factory paint (it was mostly for repairs). There was some overspray but most people would have never noticed. I was very pleased given that insurance paid me $700 more than Earl charged....

My friends have had experience w/both Earl and Maaco.
Maaco=overspray everywhere
Earl Schieb=orange peel

sc300tt said: My friends have had experience w/both Earl and Maaco.
Maaco=overspray everywhere
Earl Schieb=orange peel

I think thats one area where you often get what you pay for. Its labor intensive , hard to get around it. You can see tons of complaints on the web if you do a search for Maaco and other cheapo places as well as some good posts about it but Id like to see the paint jobs up close that are rated good. People have different standards. All the cheap paint jobs Ive seen, you can immediately tell it was a cheap paint job. Not only is there overspray, spots where repairs werent done right ---- theres that really weird look. Theres a kind of look as if they sprayed over the door handles and accessories or ragged edges where they masked the thing improperly. Theres also a sort of shine from the enamel paint that can fool you a bit from far away but up close you end up seeing drips, severe orange peel and a dull haze. When you see reflections up close they look blurry and dull.

A lot of posts say besides the hassle of the prep work which takes a lot of labor and painstaking attention to detail and a decent spray job theres a lot of labor later in buffing it out that gets the correct shine. Im not sure about how much can be done with enamel. Ive always read that enamel paints --- the prep and spray was the most important thing because it was limited, how much you can buff it out and fix bad spots and make it shine overall without respraying. So you had to have the right spray set up --- no dust, dirt and right temp and let sit a while to dry but it was preferred by many shops cause it didnt involve as much labor later so you can get an OK result with less work if it was done right. Ive never used enamel on a car though.

However for DIYers lacquer was preferred cause it dried really fast so the enviroment didnt have to be perfect and you had to go through lots of wet sanding and buffing after painting to get the shine, so supposedly if you didnt make gross mistakes in spraying and put in tons of work you could get a mirror shine that looked like an expensive paint job.

There was another type, the poly paints that were super durable and looked fantastic on cars like Porsches etc but you had to have really expensive setups to do that and it was super toxic. One thing all this car stuff is toxic. I think a lot of the older cars used lead paint and they may still do, so sanding is going to cause a real toxic mess. I must have had tons of lead and fiber glass powder and resin fumes and who knows what in my system from the days I was messing with it. Even destroyed two cars trying to paint them - a Z and a BMW trying to do it on too little money and taking on way too much myself.

Theoretically I think brushes like that guy was using could work if the paint can be buffed out and wetsanded like lacquer. Ive always wondered whether you can apply lacquer that way. I actually bought a can of clear for brush application on a quitar body since spraying caused too much of a mess in a condo. Lacquer isnt so hot either --- I think Ive read that the spray cans use acetone like stuff and you can smell it a mile away. A brush would probably cut down on that at least when applying it.

If you get anyone to do a decent spray job for a minimal amount of money that would be good too, even a Maaco but I have a feeling these places really vary in quality with everything they do. Maybe a local auto place that does decent work but will agree just to spray it might be best.

If you are serious about painting a car try doing the prep work yourself which includes body work for getting rid of rust and dents, taking parts off , and then cleaning then masking. Then getting a reasonably decent environment thats not dusty with reasonable temperatures --- no strong direct sunlight, high humidity or extreme high or low temperatures.

Then rent a compressor. Theres lots of places you can rent a spray gun and compressor though many can be really old and crappy quality. Or hire some decent place just to spray the primer. Then you go over the primer and sand that and prepare it for the finish coat.

And do the same for the finish coat.

Use a solid acrylic lacquer color. Lacquer should be easy to spray if you follow the directions and a solid color is preferable cause metallics other fancy colors are harder to spray and get it right.

Then be prepared for lots of sanding and buffing and maybe repraying touchups. With lacquer its really forgiving and theoretically you can get a million dollar paint job look if you did the prep and buffing etc properly even on a cheap budget. The downsides are it takes a lot of labor and it doesnt last as long as a modern 2 stage paint or probably even enamel.

See heres an excerpt:

Nitrocellulose - One of the oldest types of car paint still available.

Lacquer Nitrocellulose is based on cellulose, as the name implies, and is an "organic" paint finish. It was used on production cars up until the 1950's to 1960's depending on the car manufacturer. It is not particularly resistant to light or pollution and consequently more modern paints have been developed that last longer. It also takes a long time to dry. Environmental regulations make the purchase and legal use of nitrocellulose increasingly difficult in many countries, due to the amount of organic solvents that evaporate into the air during painting and drying.

Acrylic Lacquer - Used on many cars from the 1950s to the 1970s, and some, such as Rolls Royce, until the late 1980s. The paint is mixed with paint thinner which evaporates, leaving the paint pigment on the car. The finish is usually deep or glass-like, suiting classic cars. However, the finish must be buffed regularly to maintain it's look, and is not as long-lasting as 2 Pack. Acrylic lacquer is the paint of choice for the amateur painter, especially for cars of the period. It has a relatively fast drying time, preventing dirt from sticking to the finish. This is an important consideration for amateurs who usually have less than perfectly clean surroundings to paint in. The fast dying time permits dust or painting mistakes to be sanded down within a relatively short time of paint application.

Acrylic Enamel - A cheap type of paint often used on commercial vehicles. The only advantage is low cost, but you get what you pay for; the finish is somewhat dull. This paint should only be considered for showroom finishes for cars originally painted with it.

2 Pack - Paint used on all modern cars, used increasingly since the 1970s. Very easy and efficient to paint with, requiring less coats than lacquer and drying to a "showroom shine" with no sanding or buffing, in the hands of a skilled painter. The finish looks like plastic, although a skilled painter can reduce this effect. It usually does not look "right" on classic cars. The finish is also longer-lasting and more damage-resistant. The name comes from the mixture of paint and hardener that dries by chemical reaction, conceptually similar to epoxy glue. This paint contains isocyanates. If that word looks familiar, think of cyanide. When this paint is being sprayed, the spray can be considered as dangerous as sprayed cyanide gas. In the worst case, death can result from inhalation of 2 Pack paint fumes. In the best case, the immune system is seriously impaired resulting in increased susceptibility to minor diseases and a great magnification of the symptoms. This paint is not suitable for use by the home painter. Professionals must wear full-body protection with air-fed masks kept at higher than atmospheric pressure to prevent isocyanates from entering the mask. Spraying is done in a filtered spray booth equipped with heating equipment to bake the finish and reduce the drying time.

You're going to get "orange peel" in the clear coat on most any paint job... For those that don't know, orange peel is just a description of the visual look of the surface of a paint job. If you look closely at your car, you will see that the clear coat looks surprisingly similar to the surface of an unpeeled orange. This really doesn't hurt the visual aspect of the shine, unless you look very closely... or are going for a show car finish.

Orange peel allows the paint to hide any imperfections in the color coat or the metal work (i.e. body lines that don't totally match). it is caused by the paint not being sprayed close enough to the surface being painted.

There are other choices.
Since this is obviously not going to be a show car, you could always paint it youself without any professional tools. By what I've heard from people who have tried the following method, it's not difficult and has surprisingly nice results.

Paint your car yourself

I will agree with a previous poster, if prepped properly, Maaco can do a great job of painting your car cheaply. You do have to do quite a bit of work yourself though.

peachee said: It's the new sensation!
$50 Paint Job

Perfect for FW forums!

peachee, you have really hooked me on reading the link you posted. I have been reading the thread for the last hour, and I am far from finishing reading the entire thread. The pictures are amazing. This is a very interesting and entertaining link you posted. Thanks.

Great replies so far . - I just don't have the nerve for the $50 spray can job especially with a mettalic paint colr and after all it is Mercedes beater . Does anyobe know the real differences between the Maaco 250-300 "ambassador" job vs the 350-400 "presidential" job . As the car has no rust dents at all (no bodywork required) I am thinking of wet sanding it with 600 grit ? and removing the major chrome and masking the rest .

BTW- The cheap production shops in my Area (metro Altanta ) seem to be Econo Paint, Maaco , Peach .
Any local recommendations ? -Thanks

peach in snellville/stone mountain is okay, peach in dunwoody RUN.

p.s. you know these peach are franchised, and prob. maaco too. all peach are non-corporate and hire day-laborers to do alot of the work.

i used peach once. it was $2000 they missed a few spots, oversprayed a few spots, and did a good job. took them about 2-3 weeks.

then i used dunwoody peach 500 job, they painted the car green, instead of silver metallic. lol. then they painted it silver metallic over green, overspray everywhere, some runs, pretty must just what you'd expect for a $500 no bodywork scuff n spray.

use a paint with metallic flakes in it, it will resist the uglyness they infuse.

2000 bmw cosmos metallic black comes to mind instead of say jet black which shows everything.

You might check and see if there is a local community college or high school with a body shop program. They may be willing to do a professional paint job for much less for the opportunity to use your vehicle to "educate" the students. Just a thought.

TheSock said: Never, ever use lacquer. Polyurethanes are used for a reason.

Yeah it lasts longer and requires less labor but its toxic and the costs of equipment for spraying it is only economical for businesses. For a business they are substituting an investment in capital for labor and time. Its faster and labor costs would probably cost them more plus they get the added benefit of saying it lasts longer - an improvement for consumers.

The tradeoff with lacquer is, you can get a really pro paint job with minimal equipment and a less than perfect spraying environment and still get a pro job if you are willing to do it right (prep work etc) and put a lot of labor into it. Same thing with guitars. Fender uses a poly and its generally indestructable and hard to sand off or get off with chemicals. However if you want to refinish you use lacquer. Way easier to get pro job. You can use a spray can and rub it out to a pro finish if you do it right. Wont be as durable though. Enamel at least the ones Ive seen tends to have that amateur spray look.

The polys look incredibly rich , brilliant, thick , super smooth and are really durable but like the article says it can look plastic. I like that look on Porsches and other new cars that tend to have that current plasticky look anyway with the integrated bumpers and all that. They say it looks funny on older classic cars though.

TheSock said: Actually, Dupont does NOT sell lacquer anymore. I don't know if PPG does either, but I would venture a guess and say they don't. Lacquer CAN look good after it is rubbed and sprayed, but it never stops drying. After a few years, it will start to crack because it constantly shrinks. Lacquer is old school, and has absolutely no business being used today for those reasons.

Yeah thats because of emissions regulations so it might be harder to find lacquer auto paint but I still see cans of it selling online. As for a substitute if theyve come out with anything like lacquer, which dries really fast and can be wet sanded and buffed to a pro shine with an amateur spray job ---- Id like to hear about it. That lacquer in spray cans is a killer. Ive heard of some luthiers using a water based (I kid you not) clear coat that one supplier swears is very close to the best clear lacquer they traditionally use on guitars. Now that would be ideal. Something far less toxic.

However if the only answer is using a two stage poly type of thing then wouldnt that mean you had to pay $$$$ make sure it was sprayed perfectly? Then DIYers are out of luck.

I guess my skepticism rests in the fact when I was looking around at paint jobs there were two types of good looking paint jobs ---- pro urethane type jobs you see everywhere like on Porsches etc that look fabulous and older cars with expensive hand rubbed lacquer finishes. I cant say Ive ever seen a really good looking acrylic enamel job. Maybe they do exist though. I mean that glass-like super smooth rich deep look.

TheSock said:
Again, lacquer is far LESS durable then modern urethanes. What may look good now, will NOT look good a few years down the road. If you still want to believe lacquer is the answer, then I can't change your way of thinking. If you're ever curious, ask around at the body shops in your town. Ask the painters there if they had a choice, whether it would be lacquer or urethane. 99.99999% would say urethanes, bar none.

Yeah of course. Thats the point its between urethane a non-DIY option vs acrylic lacquer a DIY or acrylic enamel which is a DIY option, which generally doesnt look good. If you could do urethane either cheaply or DIY then it would be urethane hands down. But I think the spraying quality is critical obviously to get it perfect, cause Ive never read about anyone taking the imperfections out and rubbing out urethane to a first class shine. Same for acrylic enamel too -- though you do hear about buffing and wetsanding it, I still have never heard of it resulting in a mirror-like first class job. However I havent seen every enamel job in the world. Maybe its possible. But almost all the old articles imply lacquer and urethane are far better looking than enamel.

Here are the points I want to find out.

1) I have read about some people who claim to have sprayed urethanes on their own not at a body shop.
Are there new urethanes that are relatively easy to spray which results in a killer paint job from an amateur?
Are they still incredibly toxic? Lacquer is too from all the solvents but still not as deadly sounding as
they describe some urethane paints but maybe thats changed in the late 90s, 2000s?

2) The other alternative to lacquer -- acrylic enamel. Has anyone actually gotten a first class paint job
with enamel from an amateur spray job?

You can with lacquer but you are sacrificing durability and you end expending incredible amounts of elbow grease rubbing the thing out and wetsanding it. Thats the point. Its really forgiving in terms of spraying errors since you can respray easily and it dries quickly and you can sand and rub things out until its a mirror shine. Its a tradeoff. They stopped carrying it of course because all the manufacturers have switched to urethane due to the fact it has all these advantages of durability, looks and probably cost such as savings from less labor. But they can afford the equipment to do it right and have the skills to do it right. Lacquer also can be hazardous theres a huge amount of solvent used with it when spraying supposedly, so emission-wise its terrible to spray, which is why with tighter emission rules its even less popular. I used two cans of the stuff for a guitar and you could smell it a mile away it was so overpowering.

Another thing is the subjective part - whats a good paint job? I mean a mirrorlike, glassy look. Not a shiny look, like something was added to the paint or oil was poured on the car but when you get up close it looks lumpy, orange peeled and the reflections have a dull diffused look to them.

Edit: Apparently the gov has REALLY clamped down on lacquer and it may be that its very difficult to find for painting autos though I still see it if anyone is even thinking of such a thing. They say its still available in spray cans but increasingly difficult to find for auto painting.

About 8 years ago,I got a ~$400 paint job at Maaco for my little Toyota Corolla. It was painted the same color as the original, and turned out surprisingly nice. I still have the car, and the paint held up very well. With a coat of wax, it really blings, as much as a 1990 Corolla can, anyway <img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif" border=0> The Maaco was in College Park, MD close to the University of Maryland.

One word "Horrible". They will get you a cheap price but then do a pretty shoddy job.

They actually damaged our car and at first refused to admit it was them. After threating legal action he did fix it for us but it was bad.

This is the store in Irving, TX

I remember in the 50's wrestling on Los Angeles TV narrated by Dick Lane.
It was full of Earl Schieb commercials, his own voice said
I'll paint any car, any color for $19.95 or was it $29.95

I once had an older car whose paint was somewhat fading and was in a very good auto body shop for repair as someone had rear-ended me. I asked the guy about the Earl Scheib or Maaco places and he said the paint alone cost him more than what they charged for the entire job. He was getting factory paint. No idea what they use.

They would use generic stuff & dont do a color match. & lots of bondo. Some pt. can cost $5000 per gallon.

yesidonoitall said: I remember in the 50's wrestling on Los Angeles TV narrated by Dick Lane.
It was full of Earl Schieb commercials, his own voice said
I'll paint any car, any color for $19.95 or was it $29.95

I think it was originally $29.99, but the price obviously went up with inflation. When I was in high school it was $99.99. Now it's up to $199.99.

Earl died in 1992, though.

wolfgangdieter said: I had MAACO paint a VW Bus - I removed everything that was bolted on (door handles lishts, bumpers. I washed and degreased (pre-sol) it then I sanded with 280/320/400 WD sand paper and had them spot prime and paint. It looked great when I put pieces back on and was still shinny after 3 years. Go with same color and you'll be happy for a driver.

My father had Maaco paint an older Dodge pickup that he removed the trim, etc. on also and I was amazed that it came back as great as it did from them (the entire secret of a great paint job is under surface preparation). As long as you took care of the paint by waxing it, and shammying it after washing, the truck it will last forever (this coming from a guy with a degree in auto body). My 1994 Ford Ranger has 145,000 miles on it and the paint still looks brand new, except the driverside fender thats flaking off on its top and I think this is due to battery acid on previous owners part, due to the fact that I wax my truck twice a year with Mequiars or Mothers paste waxes, and buff them out by hand. Another little hint I will throw in, never ever wax any vehicle when the body is hot or warm, always let it cool in the shade and then rub the wax off with old sweatpants that are cut and turned inside out. Wash the sweats and use alot of softener, or softener sheets, and they will buff your cars wax very, very, nicely. When the first rain falls and you can see nothing but water drops on your paint you can thank me for having the best wax job and shine in town.

No one mentioned Econo.
We have about 3 in the Orlando area.
I have went to them for about 4 cars now and they all looked surprising very good.
I always get the $299 special and asked for the $100 extra clear coat afterward and it shines like new.
I have had many people telling me it look like new.

I went to Maaco once and asked about the $299 special and they kept adding crap like primming and such so I left.

Here is the hood I got painted. Its the same as the $299 special with the extra clear coat.(They charged me $99 just for the hood)

Radford said: 1) I have read about some people who claim to have sprayed urethanes on their own not at a body shop.
Are there new urethanes that are relatively easy to spray which results in a killer paint job from an amateur?
I've done urethane in the garage, and it came out well even without color sanding, except in a spot where I failed to clean the surface well enough.

Are they still incredibly toxic? Lacquer is too from all the solvents but still not as deadly sounding as they describe some urethane paints but maybe thats changed in the late 90s, 2000s? I used a PPG product called Deltron, a urethane that doesn't contain isocyanurates and is much less toxic (but still requires a charcoal mask or an outside air supply), but I don't know if PPG or anyone else still makes anything like it.

2) The other alternative to lacquer -- acrylic enamel. Has anyone actually gotten a first class paint job
with enamel from an amateur spray job?
I once did enamel without hardener because the paint was free. It sprayed just as well as urethane but stayed soft for several months.

Does GM still use lacquer? They used to spray all their cars with water-based lacquer.

I checked into a Maaco job. Just make sure you do some prep work ahead of time and pay extra for the clearcoat. If you dont the paint wont last. Also if keep up on waxing the car a couple times a year the paint will last alot longer than if you just get it painted and let it go.

I ended up painting the car myself. It was time consuming, but rather easier than i expected, honestly. I borrowed a $50 gun and small undersized 13gallonish compressor. I would recommend a larger comp. as I had to stop and wait for it to build pressure after each body panel. I used Dupont Nason single stage paint and primer. Basic white. Turned out so good and pretty shiny I actually never bothered with buffing it out yet. That was a year ago. Its that shiny. Cost of materials was about $200-250.

It was educational and fun to do. It didnt really matter what i did to the car, it was old and even a crappy paint job would look better than its rusted state before. I figured if i really butchered it, Id THEN take it somewhere and have them do it. Im sure I did as good as Maaco would have.

That said..the Maacos are all independently run and vary alot in quality. I know there is one in the St. Louis area that is better than the rest. Why...its car enthusiasts and hot rodders that work there. You go on a nice day and see their bikes and hot rods sitting in the lot. They take pride in their work.

The best route is to find a vocational school or tech/community college that offers Autobody programs. My aunts school offers them and they repainted her minivan for $300 total. Its an excellent job. It has its flaws as they were learning on it, but its better than a Maaco and cheaper. It just takes a bit longer..hers was gone for about 5 weeks.

If you search the internet, you should find enough info to keep you away from Maaco, and if there were enough Scheibs, them too. I could easily do a beter job myself. I own an air compressor and a HVLP paint gun. Both are Harbor Freight and not very expensive. I think I use this .compressor and this paint gun. If doing a car you would have to mix up enough paint ahead of time keep refilling the paint gun. And I use regular Rustoleum and I find it to be very high quality paint and recommend it for a car (gloss black Rustoleum looks fantastic on my car). If you want more exotic paint that's good quality, try a boating store. They sell paint that's probably better for soemthing close to $30/quart as oppose to the less than $10/quart Rustoleum costs. To pay someone else to do a decent paint job on a car will cost at least $1000. It is not that difficult to do it yourself, you just have to practice first.

Skipping 10 Messages...
I had a car painted at my local Maaco a couple years ago, leaving it with them while I went on vacation for a week. When I returned, the car hadn't even been worked on because it had been broken into, along with several other cars. The police told me that Maaco doesn't lock any of the cars left outside, which the employees straight up lied about and where they leave the keys: inside the cars. Nice. This Maaco location is apparently hit every other month or so, too, which is why they don't bother locking the cars overnight.

I demanded Maaco pay for a rental car while they finally did the work. Overall, the car looked okay when I finally got it back (no extra clear coat, same color blue as before) but there were definite overspray spots. They also messed up the wiring of my CD changer, so I had to return and demand they fix that. I sold the car less than a year later while it still looked decent.

I will never patronize any Maaco again after the way they handled the situation and lied to me. Buyer beware.

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