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How to buy a new car, FWF style

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vansville said:   When I used this guide, I was able to buy my elantra about 1,000$ below the true car price. THis was the vehicle price, then in MD I paid an additional 6% tax, 300 dealer fee, and 270 tax and tags.

Fast forward, my good friend totaled her car and is looking to buy a 2016 or 17 Jeep Renegade. I thought 700$ under true car would be a good place to start (since I got mine for $1,000 under). I did a strategy I did at the end of my car buying process where I basically had prices in my email, and I just called up a dealer, asked for the sales manager, gave them my best price, and he easily emailed me back a full break down of how I got it. I then took this between two dealers and that's how I ended up paying $1,000 below true car.

Well I called a Jeep Dealer about an hour away. I told them I had a best price and asked if he could beat it. He said he could. THen I gave him an OTD price (which equated to $700 under true car, and I of course added in tax, dealer fee, and tag and title fees to arrive at an accurate OTD price) and he said go buy the car there?

COuld this be because the jeep renegade does not sell under true car, where the Elantra does? Or did I get arrogant/lazy in not actually sending out the emails? I still plan to, but figured I would just off the bat be able to get a price similar to what I got my Elantra for (as for as dollars under true car).

  
Some cars don't price down as well -- you won't get a huge drop on Kia's or as you found out..  Jeeps.  

Price the Fiat version of the Renegade.  (500X)  They may be willing to negotiate more.  You just lose the funky "Jeep" styling.

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arch8ngel said:   
junkmail9572 said:   They can tell you MSRP, invoice, holdback, and current incentives but that's all. A highly proficient  negotiator can get several thousand dollars below that price. It may take more time and effort than the average person wants to devote however. I'm retired so my time is free! YMMV
  


That is going to depend strongly on the specific category of vehicle you're talking about.

"Several thousand dollars" of extra negotiation room on a relatively expensive vehicle like a minivan or a full size truck?  Absolutely.

"Several thousand dollars" of negotiation room on a sub-compact?  Not unless they are desperate to be rid of it.
You're squeezing blood from a stone on that end of the market.

  
Under the right circumstances, a dealer's "cost" on a car can be well below zero.  If it's 11:00PM on January 31st, the dealership has sold 99 cars in January, and will get a $100k bonus from Chevy for selling 100 cars, then, in theory, selling you a $60k truck for $1 would be a highly profitable move.  

rated:
what is the etiquette on car buying -

* Do I walk into the dealership and just get whichever sales guy is free to help me?
- - - OR - - -
* Am I obligated to work with the same sales guy that I talked with before?

Background - I visited a Subaru dealership late in Dec and spent maybe 30 min with a sales guy. I just walked in and waited for whoever was available. I specifically wanted to see the Impreza. This sales guy didn't know anything about the car's features - given the 2017 was a redesign, I can tell he hadn't done any reading up on them. He got some keys so I can see a few on the lot. I asked to test drive but he said none of the cars were ready to be driven - he said these 2017's just arrived to the dealership and they haven't had a chance to prep the cars. So we just sat in 1 of them and chatted for a few mins.

The next time I go back, it'd be for a test drive and probably actual purchase.

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How should I handle it if I qualify for Toyota incentives? For example, they have a recent grad incentive of $750. Should I just be upfront with the dealerships that I qualify for the incentive or just tell them after the price is negotiated?

Also, Toyota is offering 0 percent financing. I'm not sure if they allow preapproval or not. If so, should I try to get preapproved first or just let the dealership know that I will be financing?

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mmyk72 said:   what is the etiquette on car buying -

* Do I walk into the dealership and just get whichever sales guy is free to help me?
- - - OR - - -
* Am I obligated to work with the same sales guy that I talked with before?

Background - I visited a Subaru dealership late in Dec and spent maybe 30 min with a sales guy. I just walked in and waited for whoever was available. I specifically wanted to see the Impreza. This sales guy didn't know anything about the car's features - given the 2017 was a redesign, I can tell he hadn't done any reading up on them. He got some keys so I can see a few on the lot. I asked to test drive but he said none of the cars were ready to be driven - he said these 2017's just arrived to the dealership and they haven't had a chance to prep the cars. So we just sat in 1 of them and chatted for a few mins.

The next time I go back, it'd be for a test drive and probably actual purchase.

  why wold u be obligated?  what you do is this:  research.  narrow list to top 5 vehicles.  test drive them wherever you want, as often as you want.  narrow list again to top 2 or 3 vehicles. then check trucar and  blast emails to 25+ dealerships within a 500-mile radius of your location.  pit best dealerships (ones with lowest quotes) against one another.  then go pick up your vehicle from whatever dealership you'd like.

arrange financing with PENFED or similar ahead of time, as some dealers will give you a great vehicle price but then rape you on a loan/lease.  also, some dealerships can beat PENFED.  As a rule, skip add-ons (paint protection, window etching, alarm, etc.) offered in F&I.  if you're unusually hard on your vehicles and you tend to keep them long-term, an extended warranty might make sense.  But get MULTIPLE quotes from other dealerships in advance.

I'd recommend staying fairly close to home, due to prevalence of shenanigans.  it would suck to drive 50+ miles, only to deal with loads of BS. if possible, use distant dealerships to pressure local ones.  if you MUST go non-local, check MULTIPLE reviews on MULTIPLE review sites.

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Am interested in Honda CR-V and am doing exactly as in the OP this weekend. And will wait to pull the trigger by 31 March (end of month / end of quarter). Wish me luck
Here is the thing, Honda offers rebate of $500 for recent graduates but thats only available for financing through HFS (Honda Financial Services). I dont need financing (luckily)
Can some one please share with me, if I do HFS, how can I stay close to as minimum fees as possible to get the $500 rebate? Will there be any impact for insurance etc.?
Thank you folks ..

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