Need new AC unit for my upper floor

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my current AC unit which is dual unit and also have gas heating along with emergency heating option is giving up.
I noticed that rusty water dripping on my roof last year, sent the photo to my friend who is in construction business, he told me its good that water is dripping and it shows the healthy AC unit and don't worry.
this year AC was not blowing air so I checked in the attic and noticed that the drainage was blocked, and the tray was full of water, so I fixed the drian and also cleaned the COIL with some spray that Lowes sell.
that didn't fixed and water were keep coming on the try and also noticed that the COIL was frozen so I called the technician, he came and filled up with the FREYON but tech told me that rusty water dripping of the roof mean it was emergency drain and looks like you AC is giving up so you better start thinking to replacing the AC unit.

anyway after filling up the FREYON AC looks like running fine, but I am also thinking that if it breaks this time I should replace the unit.
checked up few on acwholesaler.com and few other website, 5 Ton AC is about $2500 range.

What is the average AC installation charges? is that something DIY?

I lives in Northern VA.

Thanks,
 

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byteless said:    noticed that the drainage was blocked, and the tray was full of water, so I fixed the drian and also cleaned the COIL with some spray that Lowes sell.
that didn't fixed and water were keep coming on the tray...
 

You do know that water is supposed to drain from your air conditioner, right?  Blow out the condensate drain lines with an air compressor and listen to your friend in the construction business, not the guy who sells air conditioners for a living.

well the technician said that the water should drain in the basement where the drain line goes. not from the roof which is emergency drain. and that's where its f***ed up.

it's most likely clogged up and not f***** up. If technician says something vague like "AC is giving up" that means he doesn't know what's wrong with it or it's not worth the trouble for him to fix it.

byteless said:   well the technician said that the water should drain in the basement where the drain line goes. not from the roof which is emergency drain. and that's where its f***ed up.
Right - that line is clogged, so the water is taking the next path which is the emergency drain.  Find the line in the basement or outside or wherever it is, and blow compressed air through it to clear it. 

sounds like the "A" coil in the units is rusted and becomes frozen causing condensation to drip into the blower area.  If that's the case, you're looking at about $800 - $1000 repair including parts and labor. 

ach1199 said:   sounds like the "A" coil in the units is rusted 
How old is the A/C? I'll bet less than 10-15 years. The newer models are crap and made with lots of Chinese components to save the manufacturer a few bucks. There are plenty of problems with coils rusting so why aren't they made of something like copper or stainless? Probably because it would would cost the manufacturer an extra $20. Not sure what my unit is made of but it's going on 26 years old, running fine and I'm in the same area as the OP.

atikovi said:   
ach1199 said:   sounds like the "A" coil in the units is rusted 
How old is the A/C? I'll bet less than 10-15 years. The newer models are crap and made with lots of Chinese components to save the manufacturer a few bucks. There are plenty of problems with coils rusting so why aren't they made of something like copper or stainless? Probably because it would would cost the manufacturer an extra $20. Not sure what my unit is made of but it's going on 26 years old, running fine and I'm in the same area as the OP.

My house was built in 2005 so I would say my unit probably 11 years old.
It is running fine now, so I assume what "ach119" said, I might only need the "A" coil.

the coil was freezing up and there were standing water on the tray, but since the "A" coil cleaned and drain clog fixed and some FERON were added 2 weeks ago, its running fine.
I am planing to just have my decision made that what unit need to installed as well as the technician decided and the day it will break I will order another unit.
In my house I have 2 AC units, for different floors, so few days without AC/Heating would not be an issue.

I will post few pictures of the unit tags and would like to get some advise as what unit I should order.
I don't know just replacing the "A" coil would fix or not. not really want to spend another $800 - $1000 which I am not sure if that would fix the issue or not.
I will keep this thread updates.

Thanks once again.
 

byteless said:   
atikovi said:   
ach1199 said:   sounds like the "A" coil in the units is rusted 
How old is the A/C? I'll bet less than 10-15 years. The newer models are crap and made with lots of Chinese components to save the manufacturer a few bucks. There are plenty of problems with coils rusting so why aren't they made of something like copper or stainless? Probably because it would would cost the manufacturer an extra $20. Not sure what my unit is made of but it's going on 26 years old, running fine and I'm in the same area as the OP.

My house was built in 2005 so I would say my unit probably 11 years old.
It is running fine now, so I assume what "ach119" said, I might only need the "A" coil.

the coil was freezing up and there were standing water on the tray, but since the "A" coil cleaned and drain clog fixed and some FERON were added 2 weeks ago, its running fine.
I am planing to just have my decision made that what unit need to installed as well as the technician decided and the day it will break I will order another unit.
In my house I have 2 AC units, for different floors, so few days without AC/Heating would not be an issue.

I will post few pictures of the unit tags and would like to get some advise as what unit I should order.
I don't know just replacing the "A" coil would fix or not. not really want to spend another $800 - $1000 which I am not sure if that would fix the issue or not.
I will keep this thread updates.

Thanks once again.

  
Anytime that something breaks, you want to start troubleshooting with the cheapest, lowest cost options.  dcwilbur recommended the right first step twice.  You need to clear you condensate line.  Either blow compressed air through the line like dcwilbur recommended or if the line is not that clogged you can use a wet/dryvac to suck the clog out of the line.  This will cost nothing if you already own or can borrow an air compressor or wet/dry vac.  

billcard said:   
byteless said:   
atikovi said:   
ach1199 said:   sounds like the "A" coil in the units is rusted 
How old is the A/C? I'll bet less than 10-15 years. The newer models are crap and made with lots of Chinese components to save the manufacturer a few bucks. There are plenty of problems with coils rusting so why aren't they made of something like copper or stainless? Probably because it would would cost the manufacturer an extra $20. Not sure what my unit is made of but it's going on 26 years old, running fine and I'm in the same area as the OP.

My house was built in 2005 so I would say my unit probably 11 years old.
It is running fine now, so I assume what "ach119" said, I might only need the "A" coil.

the coil was freezing up and there were standing water on the tray, but since the "A" coil cleaned and drain clog fixed and some FERON were added 2 weeks ago, its running fine.
I am planing to just have my decision made that what unit need to installed as well as the technician decided and the day it will break I will order another unit.
In my house I have 2 AC units, for different floors, so few days without AC/Heating would not be an issue.

I will post few pictures of the unit tags and would like to get some advise as what unit I should order.
I don't know just replacing the "A" coil would fix or not. not really want to spend another $800 - $1000 which I am not sure if that would fix the issue or not.
I will keep this thread updates.

Thanks once again.

  
Anytime that something breaks, you want to start troubleshooting with the cheapest, lowest cost options.  dcwilbur recommended the right first step twice.  You need to clear you condensate line.  Either blow compressed air through the line like dcwilbur recommended or if the line is not that clogged you can use a wet/dryvac to suck the clog out of the line.  This will cost nothing if you already own or can borrow an air compressor or wet/dry vac.  

  This is already done.

And the refrigerant you are trying to refer to is simply "Freon".

You should be posting these technical AC questions to a DIY/home improvement forum, not to Fatwallet Finance.

atikovi said:   
ach1199 said:   sounds like the "A" coil in the units is rusted 
How old is the A/C? I'll bet less than 10-15 years. The newer models are crap and made with lots of Chinese components to save the manufacturer a few bucks. There are plenty of problems with coils rusting so why aren't they made of something like copper or stainless? Probably because it would would cost the manufacturer an extra $20. Not sure what my unit is made of but it's going on 26 years old, running fine and I'm in the same area as the OP.

  How exactly are the coils "rusting"?  They aren't made of any iron-based product (like steel) except for the frame on the edges... it is copper and/or aluminum.  Copper and aluminum don't rust... although they do tarnish... but they are corrosion resistant.

There are things that can cause a leak in the line, however... freezing up.  This can happen if you have air restrictions, like a dirty filter.  Low freon itself can cause the system to freeze up, as well... so if it is leaking at a valve or something.  Also, VOCs can cause corrosion (found in paints and carpets).  You can use low-VOC products when you replace them... but the newer coils also have a thin coating on them to make them resistant to VOCs.

Dus10 said:   
atikovi said:   
ach1199 said:   sounds like the "A" coil in the units is rusted 
How old is the A/C? I'll bet less than 10-15 years. The newer models are crap and made with lots of Chinese components to save the manufacturer a few bucks. There are plenty of problems with coils rusting so why aren't they made of something like copper or stainless? Probably because it would would cost the manufacturer an extra $20. Not sure what my unit is made of but it's going on 26 years old, running fine and I'm in the same area as the OP.

  How exactly are the coils "rusting"?  They aren't made of any iron-based product (like steel) except for the frame on the edges... it is copper and/or aluminum.  Copper and aluminum don't rust... although they do tarnish... but they are corrosion resistant.

There are things that can cause a leak in the line, however... freezing up.  This can happen if you have air restrictions, like a dirty filter.  Low freon itself can cause the system to freeze up, as well... so if it is leaking at a valve or something.  Also, VOCs can cause corrosion (found in paints and carpets).  You can use low-VOC products when you replace them... but the newer coils also have a thin coating on them to make them resistant to VOCs.
 

  The bottom pan of the A coil is made of either a sheet metal or plastic.  If sheet metal then i can get rusted and water can drip into blower area. If it's made of plastic then the plastic can crack (in my case) and again water can get into the blower area.

ArmchairArchitect said:   You should be posting these technical AC questions to a DIY/home improvement forum, not to Fatwallet Finance.
  It costs me $99 for a service call that includes basic labor. OP should be calling a HVAC company for a repair

I just used a guy that cost $70 in Northern VA. Sure I overpaid for the actual repair work, but it was working within 3 hours of my call. I'm sure anyone in this area would have jacked me for a minor repair. Don't have time to mess around with DIY troubleshooting and part acquisition.

It's also not a horrible idea to get an HVAC service once a year and have a service tech look at the condition of the system. That way you catch problems early and they don't turn into bigger, more expensive repairs (hopefully). I am not an HVAC expert, so I find an expert to do regular maintenance/inspections. It's part of being a responsible home owner. If you have a leak, there's a problem. Get a service tech in to diagnose it. It'll cost less than $100 and they might even let you apply the diagnosis fee towards the cost of the repair (depending on the company you use).

gooddealie said:   It's also not a horrible idea to get an HVAC service once a year and have a service tech look at the condition of the system. That way you catch problems early and they don't turn into bigger, more expensive repairs (hopefully). I am not an HVAC expert, so I find an expert to do regular maintenance/inspections. It's part of being a responsible home owner. If you have a leak, there's a problem. Get a service tech in to diagnose it. It'll cost less than $100 and they might even let you apply the diagnosis fee towards the cost of the repair (depending on the company you use).
  The only way that works is if they're overcharging for the repair.... It's not free for someone to drive out and inspect.

Bend3r said:   
gooddealie said:   It's also not a horrible idea to get an HVAC service once a year and have a service tech look at the condition of the system. That way you catch problems early and they don't turn into bigger, more expensive repairs (hopefully). I am not an HVAC expert, so I find an expert to do regular maintenance/inspections. It's part of being a responsible home owner. If you have a leak, there's a problem. Get a service tech in to diagnose it. It'll cost less than $100 and they might even let you apply the diagnosis fee towards the cost of the repair (depending on the company you use).
  The only way that works is if they're overcharging for the repair.... It's not free for someone to drive out and inspect.

  
Around here it usually costs $80-90 for a yearly PM/check.  When you consider that it is a fairly fast procedure for them and normally between seasons they have plenty of time/people there is still a little profit built in.  Even counting drive time that isn't too bad, versus them playing poker back at the office or on reduced hours.  I do mine every OTHER year or so, it was $79 last time.

They even offer it during the season, but that is knowing that anyone that calls them is probably having issues and will need repairs that are additional. 

Bend3r said:   
gooddealie said:   It's also not a horrible idea to get an HVAC service once a year and have a service tech look at the condition of the system. That way you catch problems early and they don't turn into bigger, more expensive repairs (hopefully). I am not an HVAC expert, so I find an expert to do regular maintenance/inspections. It's part of being a responsible home owner. If you have a leak, there's a problem. Get a service tech in to diagnose it. It'll cost less than $100 and they might even let you apply the diagnosis fee towards the cost of the repair (depending on the company you use).
  The only way that works is if they're overcharging for the repair.... It's not free for someone to drive out and inspect.

 I'm not saying that it's free, but it's not prohibitively expensive, and it's a good investment when you consider that a neglected system can end up costing you hundreds or thousands of dollars. Plus.... it's good to have an HVAC service company you trust before you're actually faced with any really expensive repairs or replacements.



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