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I am the not-so-proud owner on a 2000 Nissan Quest Minivan that I purchased in 2012 for $3600.

Something or the other invariably breaks on the van every year, needing costly repairs. Last in the row was water pump replaced a couple of months ago for $400.

I am thankful that the van has never left us stranded in the middle of many long trips we have taken (driven 30k miles in 4 years, majority of which are long road trips). However, that is just a matter of time if we keep driving it.

After the last "breakdown" (water pump gave out -> overheating), we got sick of it and bought a new Sienna minivan for what seems to be a good price (invoice price including tax and tags).

I know! Not the FWF way to do things! So I'm fully expecting to get many chastising remarks on this point and I promise to try to take them with a positive spirit.

That aside, I'm now trying to get rid of the old minivan. I posted it in craigslist for $1500, and will probably be ready to negotiate down a bit if required. I seem to get a lot of email responses asking if the van is available, but nobody has, as yet, come in to take a look! What gives?

There are carrying costs associated with the van. Tax + insurance + yearly emission is about $40/month. I'm not ecstatic about bleeding $40 every month for no good reason - and hence would like to get rid of it earlier rather than later.

Any ideas how to do that in the most economical (in terms of money AND effort) way?

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take it to carmax

Why didn't you trade it in when you bought the new Sienna?

stormdog123 said:   Why didn't you trade it in when you bought the new Sienna?
  
Cause they would have only given OP no more than $500, even though that's probably what it's still worth now... 

stormdog123 said:   Why didn't you trade it in when you bought the new Sienna?
  if one minivan is awesome, why not have twice the awesome??

Sell it for $1000, make it clear there is no negotiation on price. Take a video of it and post the video with the listing, making it clear again that every flaw is pointed out. Throw in a 'serious bidders only', have them contact you via phone only, and this thing will sell within the week

I need to make a trip to carmax. However, I was discouraged by multiple neighbors for such an old car. Aparently they don't want to take in such old cars and hence offer something barely above scrap-yards.

A couple of data points (from neighbors) are as follows:
Junkyard: $60, Carnax: $300, kbb "fair" condition value: $1000.
Second one had identical first two values, with kbb value $1200.

Not sure what you're worried about.. I had a 1997 Mercury Villager which was a twin to the quest and with 170k on the odometer it ran like a champ... You should be able to get $1000 from a family that needs a dependable car.

Nissan = crap.  Perhaps the lowest quality of Japanese cars.

puddonhead said:   I am the not-so-proud owner on a 2000 Nissan Quest Minivan that I purchased in 2012 for $3600.

Something or the other invariably breaks on the van every year, needing costly repairs. Last in the row was water pump replaced a couple of months ago for $400.

I am thankful that the van has never left us stranded in the middle of many long trips we have taken (driven 30k miles in 4 years, majority of which are long road trips). However, that is just a matter of time if we keep driving it.

After the last "breakdown" (water pump gave out -> overheating), we got sick of it and bought a new Sienna minivan for what seems to be a good price (invoice price including tax and tags).

I know! Not the FWF way to do things! So I'm fully expecting to get many chastising remarks on this point and I promise to try to take them with a positive spirit.

That aside, I'm now trying to get rid of the old minivan. I posted it in craigslist for $1500, and will probably be ready to negotiate down a bit if required. I seem to get a lot of email responses asking if the van is available, but nobody has, as yet, come in to take a look! What gives?

There are carrying costs associated with the van. Tax + insurance + yearly emission is about $40/month. I'm not ecstatic about bleeding $40 every month for no good reason - and hence would like to get rid of it earlier rather than later.

Any ideas how to do that in the most economical (in terms of money AND effort) way?


How long has it been on CL? I'd think you'd be able to get it sold fairly easily.

HawkeyeNFO said:   Nissan = crap.  Perhaps the lowest quality of Japanese cars.
Mazda is worse, and I'm not convinced Hyundai/Kia are really any better than Mazda.

HawkeyeNFO said:   Nissan = crap.  Perhaps the lowest quality of Japanese cars.
Please cite your source proving this. All Japanese cars have had their share of issues. Toyota with engine sludge and Honda with transmissions!

rufflesinc said:   take it to carmax
  If they buy it, they won't pay much since they will be taking it to a wholesale auction.

puddonhead said:   I need to make a trip to carmax. However, I was discouraged by multiple neighbors for such an old car. Aparently they don't want to take in such old cars and hence offer something barely above scrap-yards.

A couple of data points (from neighbors) are as follows:
Junkyard: $60, Carnax: $300, kbb "fair" condition value: $1000.
Second one had identical first two values, with kbb value $1200.

  You should be able to get more than $60 from a junk yard for a running car.

Lower it to $1200 on CL, ready to let it go for $800. Set a date and time for showing - "Saturday morning at the Cash-and-Carry parking lot."

I'd stick with $1500 because it gives you plenty of room to negotiate down. You'll get lots of texts and emails asking if something is still available, here's my stock response: Still available, but lots of interest, first with cash gets it. Then take ZenNUTS suggestion and set a time and date in a public place or manage appointments to look at it as you see fit.

Are you overinsured now that you have a replacement? You may be able to drop your carrying costs significantly if it's generally not driven any more.

SlimTim said:   Are you overinsured now that you have a replacement? You may be able to drop your carrying costs significantly if it's generally not driven any more.
  
Good thing to double-check, but I'm guessing it won't make much difference. If OP even has collision/comprehensive coverage, it's gotta cost next to nothing on a vehicle that's barely worth more than the deductible. Liability insurance is based more on the drivers than the cars.

puddonhead said:   That aside, I'm now trying to get rid of the old minivan. I posted it in craigslist for $1500, and will probably be ready to negotiate down a bit if required. I seem to get a lot of email responses asking if the van is available, but nobody has, as yet, come in to take a look! What gives?
You've never sold anything on CL before, have you? Out of 10 responses, you will get 5 tire kickers. They will ask if you still have the car available, or ask you questions that are already answered in your post. They have zero intention on purchasing the car, they just have jack $hit to do all day but to mess with people on CL. 3 people will ask you dumb*ss questions like what the specific motor code is stamped under the hood of the car. The remaining 2 might be serious buyers, but at this point you end up being short with them because you think they are all tire kickers and they end up not looking at the car. If you ever get lucky enough to meet someone in person you end up selling them the car at some stupid price, because you don't want to deal with the car selling process ever again.

Be strong, OP. People on CL can be complete idiots. You just have to put as much info as possible in each of your posts and only answer questions via phone call. If they are serious, they will call. Every single one of them will negotiate with you too, so keep in mind your bottom line price and don't ever move away from it.

puddonhead said:   I need to make a trip to carmax. However, I was discouraged by multiple neighbors for such an old car. Aparently they don't want to take in such old cars and hence offer something barely above scrap-yards.

A couple of data points (from neighbors) are as follows:
Junkyard: $60, Carnax: $300, kbb "fair" condition value: $1000.
Second one had identical first two values, with kbb value $1200.

  
You're in a hurry to get rid of it yet you price it above value, and apparently arent willing to take a small "loss" even though you probably got your moneys worth out of it..  I guess if youre concerned about the $40 a month, a hundred here and there scares ya to death.

MrSamsung said:   
puddonhead said:   That aside, I'm now trying to get rid of the old minivan. I posted it in craigslist for $1500, and will probably be ready to negotiate down a bit if required. I seem to get a lot of email responses asking if the van is available, but nobody has, as yet, come in to take a look! What gives?
You've never sold anything on CL before, have you? Out of 10 responses, you will get 5 tire kickers. They will ask if you still have the car available, or ask you questions that are already answered in your post. They have zero intention on purchasing the car, they just have jack $hit to do all day but to mess with people on CL. 3 people will ask you dumb*ss questions like what the specific motor code is stamped under the hood of the car. The remaining 2 might be serious buyers, but at this point you end up being short with them because you think they are all tire kickers and they end up not looking at the car. If you ever get lucky enough to meet someone in person you end up selling them the car at some stupid price, because you don't want to deal with the car selling process ever again.

Be strong, OP. People on CL can be complete idiots. You just have to put as much info as possible in each of your posts and only answer questions via phone call. If they are serious, they will call. Every single one of them will negotiate with you too, so keep in mind your bottom line price and don't ever move away from it.

  Must vary with where you live.  On Long Island, NY, I sold two cars (1996 and 1998 years) within literally an hour of my posting.

HawkeyeNFO said:   Nissan = crap.  Perhaps the lowest quality of Japanese cars.

Not necessarily true. 

My other car is a 2001 Nissan Altima that I plan to hold on to for at least another 10 years. It was my first car purchase and I got lucky with this one.

It's super dependable and has cost me no more than $500 in non-regular maintenance in the last 10 years (I purchased it in 2006 for $6000). I pretty much just do regular oil changes, fill gas and drive it!
 

JaxFL said:   
puddonhead said:   I need to make a trip to carmax. However, I was discouraged by multiple neighbors for such an old car. Aparently they don't want to take in such old cars and hence offer something barely above scrap-yards.

A couple of data points (from neighbors) are as follows:
Junkyard: $60, Carnax: $300, kbb "fair" condition value: $1000.
Second one had identical first two values, with kbb value $1200.

  
You're in a hurry to get rid of it yet you price it above value, and apparently arent willing to take a small "loss" even though you probably got your moneys worth out of it..  I guess if youre concerned about the $40 a month, a hundred here and there scares ya to death.


Any suggestion on how to price it or how much to price it at?

Any "loss" that is recurring scares me. Amount is only a secondary concern. I'd personally be much more comfortable with a $5k one time loss that will never happen again than a $10/month recurring loss for an indefinite period with inflation related compounding built in! I know - it can be illogical when the time-spans are small. But we all have our biases.

 

puddonhead said:   
 
My other car is a 2001 Nissan Altima that I plan to hold on to for at least another 10 years. It was my first car purchase and I got lucky with this one.

 

  You plan to drive a 15 year old car for another 10 years until it's a quarter century old?

rufflesinc said:   
puddonhead said:   
 
My other car is a 2001 Nissan Altima that I plan to hold on to for at least another 10 years. It was my first car purchase and I got lucky with this one.

 

  You plan to drive a 15 year old car for another 10 years until it's a quarter century old?

  What's wrong with that?

DTASFAB said:   
rufflesinc said:   
puddonhead said:   
 
My other car is a 2001 Nissan Altima that I plan to hold on to for at least another 10 years. It was my first car purchase and I got lucky with this one.

 

  You plan to drive a 15 year old car for another 10 years until it's a quarter century old?

  What's wrong with that?

  expecting a 15 year old car to last 10 more years without major expenses?

rufflesinc said:   
DTASFAB said:   
rufflesinc said:   
puddonhead said:   
 
My other car is a 2001 Nissan Altima that I plan to hold on to for at least another 10 years. It was my first car purchase and I got lucky with this one.

 

  You plan to drive a 15 year old car for another 10 years until it's a quarter century old?

  What's wrong with that?

  expecting a 15 year old car to last 10 more years without major expenses?

  Depends on total mileage.

FreddyPharkas said:   
MrSamsung said:   
puddonhead said:   That aside, I'm now trying to get rid of the old minivan. I posted it in craigslist for $1500, and will probably be ready to negotiate down a bit if required. I seem to get a lot of email responses asking if the van is available, but nobody has, as yet, come in to take a look! What gives?
You've never sold anything on CL before, have you? Out of 10 responses, you will get 5 tire kickers. They will ask if you still have the car available, or ask you questions that are already answered in your post. They have zero intention on purchasing the car, they just have jack $hit to do all day but to mess with people on CL. 3 people will ask you dumb*ss questions like what the specific motor code is stamped under the hood of the car. The remaining 2 might be serious buyers, but at this point you end up being short with them because you think they are all tire kickers and they end up not looking at the car. If you ever get lucky enough to meet someone in person you end up selling them the car at some stupid price, because you don't want to deal with the car selling process ever again.

Be strong, OP. People on CL can be complete idiots. You just have to put as much info as possible in each of your posts and only answer questions via phone call. If they are serious, they will call. Every single one of them will negotiate with you too, so keep in mind your bottom line price and don't ever move away from it.

  Must vary with where you live.  On Long Island, NY, I sold two cars (1996 and 1998 years) within literally an hour of my posting.

I'm in the Bay Area, and have sold a few cars there, and every single experience is like the one I described. I learned after the first time and never back down on my bottom line price. Lots of stuff on CL is overpriced, and it's because of the constant negotiation that takes place. I once sold a car for my asking price (20% over my bottom line), so it can be quite lucrative if you sell the right cars to the right people. 

I have sold a car on eBay motors and got a good price for it... but that was almost a decade ago.

Put in the ad that you welcome out-of-state cashier's checks. You will get many offers above asking

The last time I sold a car on Craigslist, it was actually at a yard sale.  I was planning to put the car up for sale eventually, but when the neighborhood yard sale came along, I decided to kill two birds with one stone.  I put up a "garage sale" ad on Craigslist with pictures of all the crap we were selling and included a description and pictures of the car.  I also cross-listed it with a second ad on the "autos for sale" section of Craigslist.

The yard sale generated a ton of traffic, and I sold the car for asking price by 11:00 AM.  The guy who bought it was just trolling through the neighborhood looking for bargains, never intending to buy a car that day.  I certainly won the prize for highest gross in the neighborhood.

how much did you gross other than the car?

rufflesinc said:   how much did you gross other than the car?
It's been a while, but I think the car was around $2,500 and we took in another $700 or $800 for a bunch of other stuff.  I had some furniture and tools that ran the numbers up a bit. 

How many miles are on this car? Its one thing if its got 125k miles but another if its at 225k.

KBB values are often inflated in my experience. Also check the value estimate on Edmunds for comparison. SEarch Craigslist for other mini vans of similar age and mileage, not just Nissans to see what else is out there for sale.

puddonhead said:   I am the not-so-proud owner on a 2000 Nissan Quest Minivan that I purchased in 2012 for $3600.

Something or the other invariably breaks on the van every year, needing costly repairs. Last in the row was water pump replaced a couple of months ago for $400.

I am thankful that the van has never left us stranded in the middle of many long trips we have taken (driven 30k miles in 4 years, majority of which are long road trips). However, that is just a matter of time if we keep driving it.

After the last "breakdown" (water pump gave out -> overheating), we got sick of it and bought a new Sienna minivan for what seems to be a good price (invoice price including tax and tags).

I know! Not the FWF way to do things! So I'm fully expecting to get many chastising remarks on this point and I promise to try to take them with a positive spirit.

That aside, I'm now trying to get rid of the old minivan. I posted it in craigslist for $1500, and will probably be ready to negotiate down a bit if required. I seem to get a lot of email responses asking if the van is available, but nobody has, as yet, come in to take a look! What gives?

There are carrying costs associated with the van. Tax + insurance + yearly emission is about $40/month. I'm not ecstatic about bleeding $40 every month for no good reason - and hence would like to get rid of it earlier rather than later.

Any ideas how to do that in the most economical (in terms of money AND effort) way?

  
I have to sympathize with you. I am currently sitting with a 2000 Mercury Villager Estate in my garage. It DID break down on the side of the interstate and left me stranded, at the end of January in WI. It has 170,xxx miles. I was *for sure* it was the fuel pump (from previous experience and not hearing the pump turn on). I fixed it myself in a gas station parking lot (dropping the gas tank and everything).  Long story short - after towing it home it's dead in my garage taking up space and I need to get rid of it!! 

The good samaritan that gave me a ride home offered me $500 off-the-cuff and I jumped at it and said "OK." This guy was supposedly a former mechanic and I told him in detail what was wrong with the van. I followed up with him a few times and he never responded. It even has the digital display and a new air filter, and this is the treatment I get!

I was wondering how much I could sell this thing for, taking into consideration that it does not run and I don't currently have means to transport/ tow it myself. Brief investigation reveals that If I call a junkyard joint to pick it up, they'll probably charge me. As in, I would owe them money when all is said and done. 

Try your local facebook site that offers cars and trucks for sale.

HawkeyeNFO said:   Nissan = crap.  Perhaps the lowest quality of Japanese cars.
 

  This is funny considering my 1999 Infiniti G20 (much of it is Nissan Sentra parts)  accumulated over 325k miles before I retired it due to "excessive wind noise on highway from door and window gaskets that developed cracks due to age". I have two friends with 2002-2003 Toyota Camrys that retired their cars at less than 130k miles due to engine failure from out of spec manufacturing defects that caused the engine to overheat. Rather than broadly labeling a particular brand, one needs to focus on specific models and to some extent specific trims per model. I have a Volvo XC90 3.2 but when I was shopping for it, people told me to stay away from the XC90 T6 due to common transmission failures.

Couple things I've learned when selling on Craigslist..
- Note in the Ad first come first serve, will not hold. Otherwise you'll be waiting for someone that never shows up while someone that would you don't give a chance to.
- Note in the Ad that if the post is still available, the car is available as well. That should limit the # of responses if its still available.

DTASFAB said:   rufflesinc said:   
DTASFAB said:   
rufflesinc said:   
puddonhead said:   
 
My other car is a 2001 Nissan Altima that I plan to hold on to for at least another 10 years. It was my first car purchase and I got lucky with this one.

 

  You plan to drive a 15 year old car for another 10 years until it's a quarter century old?

  What's wrong with that?

  expecting a 15 year old car to last 10 more years without major expenses?

  Depends on total mileage.
  

Depends more on overall condition and maintenance of the car.
Just be forewarned, as cars become more and more electronic: I tend to start having misc electrical gremlins creep in at years 15-20. Don't yet have anything more than 20 years old with lots of electronic stuff in it, but I'm a bit wary for the future.

Skipping 26 Messages...
If those work like Texas "held" plates then you can even re-use them instead of paying a "plate fee" later. Most of the time the plate transfers with the vehicle -- but entitlement, disability and other plates do not.

Since I have military entitlement plates on both my Texas plated vehicles they won't transfer. The state has a way to print a temporary "pennant" at home though, so you can still sell a vehicle without a hard plate.

Florida requires you to remove your old plate when you sell a vehicle - the self-printed Texas temp plate saved me from having to deal with Florida DMV when I bought a vehicle there. If I bought a new/used vehicle here in NC I could use them for 60 days or so before I had to go back and have it inspected and registered.



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