HD financing or fidelity card for AC install

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I am about sink in $6.5k on AC install. Homedepot is offering 23 months zero interest financing. Alternatively, I can put that on my Fidelity Visa for 2% back. Is there any reason I should go with HD financing?

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buy HD gift cards from Staples. com with ink card for 5x points. then do a 2% FEE bt. Still come out a head even more if... (more)

rufflesinc (Oct. 16, 2016 @ 8:57p) |

You cant pay HD financing offer with HD GC.

delhel (Oct. 17, 2016 @ 12:02p) |

thats why I said do a 2% fee bt

rufflesinc (Oct. 17, 2016 @ 12:04p) |

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Is it 1080p?

Well are you planning to pay it off right away?

forbin4040 said:   Well are you planning to pay it off right away?
I dont have a problem to pay it right away. Never paid finance charge.
Qc- its 4k. 1080p is old tech.

Take the 2% back, put it in HYS, earning 1%+ for a total return of over 3%.
or
Take the 6.5k, invest it safely for 23 months earning greater than 3% and then pay the HD account. 

 

buy gift cards with ink plus for 5x ur points, worth about 2 cents each.

Nobody wants to pay me over 1.2 cents for UR points, and I use fewer than 20,000 a year for travel.
Suggestions?

Does Home Depot zero interest financing require monthly minimum payments for 23 months?  Of course you can automate these, but that's just 1 more thing that has a small but real chance of being messed up by the bank or by HD.  I had the old Fidelity 2% AmEx and now the Fidelity 2% VISA, and so far they haven't made any screw-ups.   

honkinggoose said:   Take the 2% back, put it in HYS, earning 1%+ for a total return of over 3%.
or
Take the 6.5k, invest it safely for 23 months earning greater than 3% and then pay the HD account. 

 

  ???? You have HYS paying 50% APR?

taxmantoo said:   Nobody wants to pay me over 1.2 cents for UR points, and I use fewer than 20,000 a year for travel.
Suggestions?

  2 cents is a very high estimate.  There are only limited situations where you get more than 1.5 cents. (certain hyatts, but none in the 4 areas I've looked so far... they're all much worse than 1.5cents per hyatt point in the three areas I've looked.  Or, if you're booking near special events or holidays...  Some international flights, and some "business/first class" flights which I'd never pay for to begin with so to me it's not worth the "high value" these calculate to). 

If you have too many points to use, you can book flights/hotels for friends/family.  Most of the partner programs allow doing so (Not ALL of them, so be sure to check the applicable rules first), or you can book through UR travel directly.  You still can get 1.6 cents/point for most Southwest flights unless the flights are heavily booked in which case you get less value using Rapid Rewards points than using the reserve's 1.5X UR.

I got over 3 cents at the park hyatt in Beaver Creek over easter last season

rufflesinc said:   I got over 3 cents at the park hyatt in Beaver Creek over easter last season
 IMO, that example is like the "First Class"/"Business Class" flight situation.  While you may normally go to Park Hyatt and pay the rack rates, most people would not.  For the people who would never spend $1000+ a  night, it's not really worth 3 cents to them if they'd be only spending ~$100 somewhere else.  Plus you have the holiday/peak rates situation, which while a good time to use points may not be when people have the vacations planned.

Also, for comparison I had priced out park Hyatt new york for an upcoming trip.  ~$1000/nt or 30000 points/night.  So, that's 3.3 cents/point just like your example.  Except.... 
I would not pay $480 a night out of my pocket, so why would I spend $480 worth of future flights just because it was 3.3cents/pt.  I booked a 20% hilton code instead at a HGI for $150.  Now, obviously the HGI is not equivalent to the Park Hyatt -- So, the question is then what would I be willing to pay out of pocket for the Park Hyatt?  For me, that's probably an extra $200/night.  That sets my limit at ~$350, which is less than the $480 booking on "free points" would cost me.

I guess that that's how the first class flights / Park Hyatt situation works out for most people, unless their income/budgets are very large.  The low-end tier 1 Hyatts also look like they might be a good pts/$ value if they are available.  None in NYC times square though, or the other locations I've looked at.  Plus I haven't stayed at Hyatts so I dunno how Hyatt places compare to other hotel chains.

do you already have a home depot card\ acct? If not your app can be better spent on sign up bonus card if you can pif anyway

Bend3r said:   
honkinggoose said:   Take the 2% back, put it in HYS, earning 1%+ for a total return of over 3%.
or
Take the 6.5k, invest it safely for 23 months earning greater than 3% and then pay the HD account. 

 

  ???? You have HYS paying 50% APR?

  After a couple, or three, with my friend Glen, I do. 

Bend3r said:   
rufflesinc said:   I got over 3 cents at the park hyatt in Beaver Creek over easter last season
 IMO, that example is like the "First Class"/"Business Class" flight situation.  While you may normally go to Park Hyatt and pay the rack rates, most people would not.  For the people who would never spend $1000+ a  night, it's not really worth 3 cents to them if they'd be only spending ~$100 somewhere else.  

 

  You're not going to find $100 a night hotels within a 30 min drive of a resort during ski season. I tried, its not possible. Even if there was a $100 hotel (cheapest is around $130 for me) , it wouldn't be comparable to the park hyatt where it's a 5 min walk from hotel room to chairlift. #1 rule of real estate: location location location

The flights/hotel rooms may not be valued at their price to YOU but in most cases, that's the market value because that's what people are paying (exceptions are some premium flights that are overly inflated and most people are paying corporate rates)
Plus you have the holiday/peak rates situation, which while a good time to use points may not be when people have the vacations planned.
not sure what you mean here, since the whole reason why it's peak rates is because most people have vacations planned

taxmantoo said:   Nobody wants to pay me over 1.2 cents for UR points, and I use fewer than 20,000 a year for travel.
Suggestions?

  people are not paying you more than 1.2 cents because of two reasons

1) risk of getting flagged and shutdown by chase and the airlines
2) people who are into miles/points can easily generate them for 1 cent each on a basic card. for .67 cents for chase freedom unlimited. I can do 0.4 cents for my diners club

rufflesinc said:   
Bend3r said:   
rufflesinc said:   I got over 3 cents at the park hyatt in Beaver Creek over easter last season
 IMO, that example is like the "First Class"/"Business Class" flight situation.  While you may normally go to Park Hyatt and pay the rack rates, most people would not.  For the people who would never spend $1000+ a  night, it's not really worth 3 cents to them if they'd be only spending ~$100 somewhere else.  

 

  You're not going to find $100 a night hotels within a 30 min drive of a resort during ski season. I tried, its not possible. Even if there was a $100 hotel (cheapest is around $130 for me) , it wouldn't be comparable to the park hyatt where it's a 5 min walk from hotel room to chairlift. #1 rule of real estate: location location location

The flights/hotel rooms may not be valued at their price to YOU but in most cases, that's the market value because that's what people are paying (exceptions are some premium flights that are overly inflated and most people are paying corporate rates)

  I didn't say you'd find a $100 a night hotel, I said if the person would otherwise only be willing to pay to stay in a $100 hotel then it's not reasonable to assign $1000 value to using the points.  I said the value will vary on the person but the value used to value the "Points/$" value should be what the person redeeming it would be willing to pay for the service.  Might be the full $1000+ rack rate.  Might be $400, might be $600.  Money's fungible, unless you have an infinite supply of UR (which some people also do ).

In my own example I said clearly the Park Hyatt would be worth more than the HGI I booked.  But it wasn't worth $500/night to me (the opportunity cost in points).

Peak rates are when lots are traveling there, but if you pick one of the 10 busiest days of the year, the other 355 days will still be when 95%+ of the stays are occurring.  Thus why I said over 1.5cents/pt is only in limited circumstances.  I didn't say it's in NO circumstances.  Lots of people seem to like to ignore qualifying words....  I was also agreeing saying that would be a good time to use points if you are traveling on a peak period where hotel rates are higher than usual.  (And if you're looking at using a hotel program that doesn't scale the rates up/down based on peak seasons like some do now, such as Hilton).

Bend3r said:   rufflesinc said:   
Bend3r said:   
rufflesinc said:   I got over 3 cents at the park hyatt in Beaver Creek over easter last season
 IMO, that example is like the "First Class"/"Business Class" flight situation.  While you may normally go to Park Hyatt and pay the rack rates, most people would not.  For the people who would never spend $1000+ a  night, it's not really worth 3 cents to them if they'd be only spending ~$100 somewhere else.  

 

  You're not going to find $100 a night hotels within a 30 min drive of a resort during ski season. I tried, its not possible. Even if there was a $100 hotel (cheapest is around $130 for me) , it wouldn't be comparable to the park hyatt where it's a 5 min walk from hotel room to chairlift. #1 rule of real estate: location location location

The flights/hotel rooms may not be valued at their price to YOU but in most cases, that's the market value because that's what people are paying (exceptions are some premium flights that are overly inflated and most people are paying corporate rates)

  I didn't say you'd find a $100 a night hotel, I said if the person would otherwise only be willing to pay to stay in a $100 hotel then it's not reasonable to assign $1000 value to using the points.  I said the value will vary on the person but the value used to value the "Points/$" value should be what the person redeeming it would be willing to pay for the service.  Might be the full $1000+ rack rate.  Might be $400, might be $600.  Money's fungible, unless you have an infinite supply of UR (which some people also do ).

but that makes no sense. you can't get a 1000 a night room for 400 or 600, I don't see how money being fungible changes that

it makes plenty sense. If I wouldn't pay $500 for it normally, why would I pay $500 worth of "points" rather than using those points on things I'd actually buy?  it's irrelevant to someone if they can get 3 cents/pt if they redeem for a $3000 flight when they'd never buy the flight in the first place.  It may only be relevant to them that for an $80 flight it's 1.6pts/$.

Bend3r said:   it makes plenty sense. If I wouldn't pay $500 for it normally, why would I pay $500 worth of "points" rather than using those points on things I'd actually buy?  it's irrelevant to someone if they can get 3 cents/pt if they redeem for a $3000 flight when they'd never buy the flight in the first place.  It may only be relevant to them that for an $80 flight it's 1.6pts/$.
but your comparision is flawed in that you can't get the 3000 flight for 80 or the 1000 room for 100 .

now if the flight or room was over inflated price and you can get a substantially similar for much less, then yes you have a point. for example, I don't have any hhonors or spg points but oodles of chase UR that I could transfer to hyatt. If a similar slope side hotel by hilton or starwood was priced less than the park hyatt, then yeah you should use the price of the hilton or starwood. but you can't use the price of the Days Inn 60 mins away
it's irrelevant to someone if they can get 3 cents/pt if they redeem for a $3000 flight when they'd never buy the flight in the first place.  It may only be relevant to them that for an $80 flight it's 1.6pts/$.
you are conflating "not buying something because you don't have a use for it"vs "not buying something because you don't want to pay the market price"

Comparing a $1000 room overlooking central park or the ski lifts with a $100 in hoboken or 60 mins from the slopes is ridiculous if you are specifically looking for by cp or the lifts

Have you tried local contractors? From what I've seen/heard HD contractors are typically bottom rung who can't make it on their own and the work isn't always high quality.

We got quotes on a new HVAC (gas furnace and 3 ton AC) and were suprised at the range of quotes. Home Depot was 1500 high so a shopping around may save you more than financing games

alchemist said:   Have you tried local contractors? From what I've seen/heard HD contractors are typically bottom rung who can't make it on their own and the work isn't always high quality.

 

  the contractor Lowes uses here is in the wealthier areas and their quality is top notch. I've called for estimates from other contractors and their prices are not maybe $500 less, maybe. You can use Lowes gift cards or Lowes sometimes runs, in addition to financing promos, promo where you get 10% off everything including installs when using their consumer card.

I saw a contractor in the local mailer , that i've found good contractors for stuff that Lowes doesn't do, that had dirt cheap high efficiency furnace install. turns out 

1) the price doesn't include permits
2) their definition of "high eff" is 80%, and they call 90-95% "super high eff" 
3) the price assumes drop-in installation and hook up. no additional sheetmetal work or ducting, which is not happening if you're replacing a 30 year old furnace
4) the guy was very gruff and annoying on the phone , indicative of how payment would go

I asked him for ballpark of the additional work that would usually be needed and the price was over what Lowes charges. Lowes contractor did extra electrical wiring that was needed and only found at time of install for no extra charge , 

alchemist said:   Have you tried local contractors? From what I've seen/heard HD contractors are typically bottom rung who can't make it on their own and the work isn't always high quality.

We got quotes on a new HVAC (gas furnace and 3 ton AC) and were suprised at the range of quotes. Home Depot was 1500 high so a shopping around may save you more than financing games

 I did called the local contractors. The Carrier guy was a independent installer but even he was quoting about $800 more for a base model. Trane guy was from a reputable hvac company as well but boy they are expensive as hell. They must hire NASA scientists for labor. The basic Trane unit was quoted 2k above medium tier Lennox unit that HD was selling me. The HD installer is in the business for more than 20 years with reasonable reviews along with some obvious fakes. Another installer also had very good reputation where I live and it turned out later that they also work for Lowes. Costco guy is from a well known contractor and looking at these contractors from big box stores, it is clear that HD/Lowes /Costco do not put rookies behind their HVAC install business at least in my area. HD/Lowes/Costco all gave quotes for Lennox only. Lennox have screwed up website where anyone can register as a pro and a very good estimate of what the units cost. You wont have so much luck with other brands except goodman/amana.

buy HD gift cards from Staples. com with ink card for 5x points. then do a 2% FEE bt. Still come out a head even more if this is a new ink card and you get bonus

rufflesinc said:   buy HD gift cards from Staples. com with ink card for 5x points. then do a 2% FEE bt. Still come out a head even more if this is a new ink card and you get bonus
  You cant pay HD financing offer with HD GC.

delhel said:   
rufflesinc said:   buy HD gift cards from Staples. com with ink card for 5x points. then do a 2% FEE bt. Still come out a head even more if this is a new ink card and you get bonus
  You cant pay HD financing offer with HD GC.

  thats why I said do a 2% fee bt



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