I saw one of these used/reconditioned at a local shop and was JUST ABOUT to pull the trigger when I decided to do a little homework. They wanted $1000 for the used one with no blower, and a blower would add $300 so they said.

This one is new, $699 plus about $250 for shipping. For the same price as picking it up from the store I get it delivered to my driveway with a blower and a five year warranty.

It's an EPA certified stove, burns at a max efficiency of 76%, and should be enough to heat a 1800sf space. 65,000 BTUs. The .gov is offering a $300 tax credit for your purchase of an EPA certified wood stove or insert, so that comes back at the end of the year. With a Discover Cash Back of 5%, the final bill should be about $950 -47.50 -$300 = $600 and change.

Installation is up to you.

4.4/5 stars with a preponderance of positive reviews.

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Nice find--good post, OP.

Link's busted--I had to cut 'n paste it into URL bar:



People in the PNW virtually pay you to take away their cottonwood logs because they burn fast and hot like cedar and take a long time to season. But it's easy to to cut and split if done soon after falling.

Here's how I've helped others turn this "garbage wood" into viable fuel:

Combine cottonwood cord wood with Home Fire Prest Logs or similar. There are four brands of engineered logs sold at farmer's supply stores here in the PNW and our experience (many of my friends burn, too) indicates these Home Fire Prest Logs are the best bang for the buck. And cottonwood logs are the PERFECT compliment to the compressed fire logs. The fire logs typically don't flame enough and the cottonwood cord wood isn't dense enough to burn long and strong.

Viola! These two fuels LOVE working in harmony:


Wood heat is the best for comfort!


OP, I gave you green, but the federal tax credit is 10% of the purchase price, up to $300. I read this as "you get $300 if your fireplace insert costs $3000.". For this particular unit, i believe the credit will only be $69.90. Please correct me if I am wrong.

First time I've seen one of these. So basically, it is an insert that burns real wood and draws it's air from the the outside while blowing warm air into the room?

Pressure should be appropriate. Pressure reducing the service life of sealing parts of the General Assembly. Pressure is too small and will not start. In fact, I still prefer gas fireplaces, especially the plate exchanger.

thanks for the post... something to get me thinking.
shipping is only $105 for me

2012 IRS form (Line 24) you can claim 10% of stove cost and professional labor installation up to $300. So if OP buys the stove for $950, he only gets $95 back from taxes. Who knows what the 2013 form looks like? It might preclude the credit due to earlier tax year credits.

I prefer the North Idaho Energy Logs. Burn with a good flame and plenty of heat in my insert

Great timing as I've been looking at these since PA deregulated electric utilities.

FYI, it says "Faceplate (Item# 700247) or shroud kit required" - the faceplate kit is $110...


Checked the Calculate Shipping to my zip code and got this:

Sorry, this item is restricted from being shipped to the destination you requested.
If you need assistance finding comparable item(s) that we may be able to ship to your requested destination, please contact us at 1-800-221-0516.

Most people may know this, but for people that have never used an insert, you really, really need to do a chimney cleanout, at least every two years or so. Inserts keep a fire chocked down and burning slowly. The allows large amounts of cresote to accumulate quickly. A chimney fire is not a good thing to have. So, take care when using one for years.

Nice fine op.. I've been checking these out lately, we have a fireplace but never use it since it is not enclosed.

Its showing free ship to store for me, so if you have one nearby, thats another option. Also available on Amazon for the same price, but shows $198 S&H for me on Amazon, while at their website it is $94.69 standard (Yellow Truck), or $278 Priority (Yellow Exact).

The allows large amounts of cresote to accumulate quickly. A chimney fire is not a good thing to have. So, take care when using one for years.
Don't these newer inserts connect to a self-contained pipe within the chimney? Technically you can just short-pipe them into an open flue but you risk pouring smoking back into your house unless the insert itself is sealed tight and caulked.

I glanced at this, as I've had to repair the 'fire bricks' inside my metal fireplace insert before and thought about replacing the whole thing. It begs a few questions:

1) Shipping weight -278lbs - Even if I removed my entire sheetmetal insert + firebricks, I doubt it'd weigh 1/2 of that.

2) Cast iron door (?). Is this some kinda of semi/completely sealed unit? Half the enjoyment of a fireplace is hearing the crackle of the fire, and the unblocked IR heat coming through the screen.

3) For the blower, I would think you'd really, really want something pre-wired? My floor-to-ceiling stone veneer fireplace would make this tough to think through how to get 120v to it.

Thanks for taking time to share this particular deal which is useful to me.

I took another look at the tax credit situation. My state offers a 25% tax credit for purchase and installation of a wood stove plus a $10/cord tax credit for buying wood. There are also permits available to harvest wood from BLM land ($20/permit) that give you the right to fell trees, cut the wood, and haul it home. My state also has laws on the books for gathering wood after a storm. You can take any fallen wood, but cannot use a chainsaw in gathering. Find it, take it. That wood would have to be dried for two years before it is suitable for burning as home heat.

The federal tax credit information can be found here.


10% up to $500. Includes installation. For my personal tax credit, I can get 25% state and 10% federal for a total of 35%. With the faceplate, I would spend about $1200 give or take, so the total would be $420 plus $10/cord for wood. Apparently oak is the best wood for heat, and oak is a little more expensive by the cord. It's about $240/cord.

The door is cast iron with a glass faceplate. It's a semi sealed unit. I don't know anything about the crackle of a wood fire. I've never had wood heat in my home, this is for a new (to me) house that already has a wood stove in the basement. The insert would be just for heating the upstairs. Right now there is a fireplace upstairs. From what I've read and what people who use wood heat have told me, fireplaces are largely decorative. Most of the heat goes up the flue. When you have a wood fire going in the fireplace, you may get a 10% efficiency from the fireplace, but you MAY wind up with a -10% efficiency because the flue sucks more heat out of the house than the fire generates. Even when you don't use the fireplace, heat is sucked up the flue. Many fireplace users/owners say that they lose heat due to the existence of a fireplace all the time. I don't know anything about that or how you would measure that other than by placing multiple thermometers around the house to collect evidence.

From what I have read, the semi-sealed insert would block the uptake of heat through the flue when the insert is not in operation. This would end the passive heat loss that exists simply due to the existence of the fireplace. Mine has a glass front plate, so I don't know how much the glass insulates the fireplace. Lots of unknowns in this. If any fatwalleters can weigh in on this to educate the rest of us I would be grateful. I'm not an expert in wood heating at all. This just looked like a good deal for my particular situation, maybe it's useful to others. YMMV.

Caveat emptor.

I bought this exact unit from Northern Tool in Sept 2005 for the exact same price and have use it quite frequently. I also got $21.00 in FW CashBack thru the Northern link. It is really a fantastic unit, you can regulate the speed the wood burns, easy to clean and has saved a lot on heating costs. Makes all the effort with the whole wood process worthwhile vs the heat going up the chimney.

As for the install, I recommend putting either cardboard or thin ply wood under the unit so you don't scratch the harth when sliding it in place then you put the brick in after it's in place so easier to carry and install.

I went ahead and purchased a flexible stainless liner that I put down my masonry chimney to be safe and that was about $300.

I highly recommend this if you have a wood burning fireplace and want to enjoy a lot more heat for your efforts. Note that you cannot put this into a pre-fab fireplace though from what I remember.

nate, what state are you in?

We just got a pacific energy summit insert and it kicks ass. We have it in our walk-out basement that we recently finished and it's turned a room that was drafty and cold in the winter to the warmest area in the house. I'd evaluate this unit closely before buying it -- you really should get a stainless steel liner all the way to the top of the chimney if you use an insert. That will be hundreds of dollars even if you install yourself. When spending this much you may be better off with a higher quality insert to begin with.

If you took advantage of the tax credit for new windows/doors, I don't think you would be eligible for this. Too bad the credit isn't like in 2009--30% up to $1500. For anyone looking for more information, especially for stainless steel liners, I have found the following site to be extremely helpful:


Would this install in a zero clearance fire place?

Good question, and the answer is I don't know. However, I have another wood stove in the basement that is an insert, but which is entirely outside of my fireplace. There is a pipe out the back that connects to a 90 degree elbow that goes up the flue. There is a metal plate that covers the fireplace and has a cutout that accommodates the pipe. I hope that made sense. I'm not sure but I'm guessing that any insert that is entirely outside of the fireplace could work for you. Good luck on your search, any wood heat store should be able to come up with something that would work for you.

For more advice, check www.heath.com. I'm just getting started there and have learned a bit about my current stove as well as the one in this thread. Mine should be on its way to my new house in the next few weeks.

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